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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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04-21-2011, 08:26 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2009
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Align 2-in-1: what's normal?
Hey everyone, and yes I've already searched all over the place!
Just wondering what is "normal" for a 2-in-1? I wiggle the switch on my 2-in-1 as part of my pre-flight check. Occasionally I'll see one of the green LED's (the ones indicating voltage) go out or come back on. This is always after a flight or two (or few), and never on a full battery. I never see the orange or red LED's flicker or go out, and the heli never loses power. What does your 2-in-1 do? What is normal? Thanks |
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04-21-2011, 09:05 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
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This most likely means that the voltage level is between the two steps, eventually the top green will extinguish completely. Providing I understood correctly what you are writing.
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04-22-2011, 12:52 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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If you mean one light go's out if you wiggle the switch,then it's going bad ..Do the mod talked about in this thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...light=2in1+fix .You won't have any issue's after doing the switch mod.Even if the switch is OK,I would do the mod anyway's just to be on the safe side..
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04-22-2011, 05:42 AM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Thanks |
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04-22-2011, 05:44 AM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
So if I'm worried I should just solder to join where the switch is? You also recommend a certain type of grease. Is the grease a conductor or insulator? Thanks |
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04-22-2011, 06:51 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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dielectric grease is a silicone grease, safe for plastic, commonly used as an anti-corrosive barrier for electrical connections. It is non condunctive and available at any auto parts store. It is also, but I'm not 100% sure, the same thing as Align one way bearing grease.
The 2 in 1 is notorious for going out and this switch is the culprit 90% of the time. Other factors are the electrical connection between the remote and main unit and just plain going bad. The factors that affect the switch are--- -its location (where it can get fuel in it), -its location and mounting (mounted to the side of the frame by the motor is convenient, but you've got a mechanical micro switch mounted to a high frequency vibrator) -the fact that its a micro switch. Do the mod, get a better switch or live with the inconvenience of plug and unplug, or find another power solution. I'm gonna get a life pack, a micro regulator for the tail, and a pushglo, and then I'm gonna ditch the 2 in 1.
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04-22-2011, 08:10 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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Mine started doing this a couple of months ago, I did the switch mode (Took out the old switch and added a new external switch.) It's working great now.
Don't fly it like it is, do the mode or replace the 2 in 1 with something different. Craig |
04-22-2011, 09:32 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I did the mod that everyone seems to be talking about back when I had my 2in1.
http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli/ARCHIVE_2_IN_ONE.html Mine eventually developed a rattle though. I took it apart and all three resistors attached to the main board of the regulator had fallen off. I had had enough of nursing such an important component, so I ditched it. Now I have a Fromeco Arizona, Remote glow, and this wonderful little device. http://www.western-robotics.com/sentinel_lipo_hp.html I have this mounted right above my fuel tank, and it works every bit as well at the 2in1's LED's in my opinion. |
04-22-2011, 01:36 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Definitely do the mod. I am on my second regulator, as the wires frayed on my first shorting on the cf frame. The first did the flicker, as did the second. It is a very good regulator, but the switch suck$ A$$. If you take care of the switch, it should be good as gold.
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04-23-2011, 11:51 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Well this morning I went for a fly. Full battery as usual.
On pre-flight switch wiggle all lights stayed solid. Halfway through the flight I brought the heli in to check the engine temperature. Just before it landed there was only 1 green LED showing and after the blades had stopped there was only the orange and red LED's still showing. I powered the heli off and then turned it back on again and all LED's were on indicating a full charge. When I wiggled the switch two of the green LED's flickered. Should I: A) buy another 2-in-1 B) fix it by removing the switch, soldering the connection to "always on" and just use the battery to turn it on/off C) Remove the switch and wire another one in somewhere else |
04-24-2011, 12:05 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Put another switch on it ..
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04-24-2011, 05:01 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2009
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To fix the problem, switch is just for convenience right?
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04-24-2011, 06:22 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Do the switch mod, or buy a different regulator.. I got rid of mine and put in an Foremco Arizona.. It's been bulletproof and the switch has fail safe on..
I wouldn't buy another one and expect a different end result though..
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04-24-2011, 07:51 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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B, and maybe add a super rocker, or the equivilent in between the 2 in 1 and the battery.
Or, you can use the solution I mentioned earlier. Life batteryies charge quicker than most RX lipos, and you don't have to worry about leaving the pack fully charged or a regulator failure. If you want the onboard glow, there are other solutions Do not fly this again without doing something. Ditto
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