Well...she crashes good!

[G200driver]

It was bound to happen Got to pushing the 7HV pretty hard today, and after a very fast reversal and hard punch out through the top of a loop inverted, my Helijive shutdown..by the time that I realized I'd lost power and got it rolled upright, I'd lost all my headspeed and performed a perfect bladestop from about 200 ft...first one ever!! Couldn't have crashed in a better place though..it was very tall grass and weeds,but regardless, I couldn't believe how little damage there was...It bent the skid on the side that hit, cracked the lower frame, and banged up my new canopy(now that pisses me off!!!)...This thing is tough!! Didn't even get my new Rails!!

Now, I've got to figure out why the Helijive 120 shut down on me...I've got better than 75 flights on this setup, and its the first time every the the Xera 4530 and helijive have given me any prolbems...running 2100 headspeed, mode 4, 12.5/12.5 pitch....HV has been coming down around 120F, but I'm just now really starting to push this pwoer system....

New parts on the way, Jcooler order for the Jive ,and going to cut hole for better airflow through the canopy...

[Jonnyrl1]

Sorry to hear, but man you got off easy Id be pissed about the canopy too, but at least the blades made it. When I crash I usually get the most pissed about losing the blades more than anything.

[myrseth]

Check your solders with a temp gun, lead temps on each side of the plugs, especially motor side, btw also check plugs. Can be smart checking for continuity and no contact.

Bad soldering can be detected by different temperatures on each side of the plugs when you work the system and can lead to esc shutdown or fire. Higher temp has bad solder

I think mr Mel posted a 10 top reasons for busting escs or something, might be smart to check out for getting ideas to look.

[dunkonu23]

Aw man! That totally sucks! I do so like that canopy.

Scott

[EricW]

Aaiii
Had a similar crash a while ago, same reason (outside temperature rise and to much pushing) and also little damage.
It can be very tough! .
But as on every RC heli it all depends on how it goes in, and no power on the head makes a big difference, witnessed a 7HV "re-kit" crash this weekend

[G200driver]

myrseth

Thanks for the tips. I'll look into these. I'm using the 4mm bullets that came with the Xera. I wondered about them being too small to begin with. Think I'll replace with a set of 6.5mm that I have laying here just to be sure. Battery packs are all pre-built from Spyders, so no soldering on my part there..only bad joint could be the bullets, assuming the batteries and connectors from Progressive are good, which I believe they are..

Thanks

[snipealot]

Man that sucks but I will take that crash any day of the week! It's a very robust airframe. At least you have a second one to fly while waiting for parts.

[jmackey]

I'm using the CC 6.5 connectors between the ESC and motor. On top of the increased current handling, these are relatively short, which makes it a little easier fit. Very easy to get a perfect solder connection with these also.

I shortened the wires on the motor and ESC, doubled up on the heatshrink and seperated the connections. A friends 7HV (with 4530) cutout in flight when there was an arc between these connections (they were double insulated as well, but bundled together).

Ya gotta keep 'em se-perated!

Jay

[G200driver]

Dang Jay!! You did shorten them....So it doesn't hurt to short motor and ecs wires? Does affect anything?

I've got a severe motor fetish, as well as a canopy one it appears....I just bought a Scorpion 4530-540LE and a Scorpion 4525-520 Ultimate...Can I shorten these motor wires as well??

[jmackey]

You do have to be on your best behaviour soldering the shorter connections so you don't heat up the wire too much inside your ESC. Not that hard though, and you really shouldn't accept anything less than perfect soldered connections anyway with this kind of power and potential for damage or injury.

Less wire length = less resistance = less heat. All good things fro our heli. 12 - 14 " less heavy wire for your heli to lug around doesn't hurt either. I shortened my leads on the battery side as well.

I can't say if / how significant this is, but I like it

BTW, my CG is perfect with my 12s pack pinned in the center slot too.

Jay

[dankcincy]

Yes she does, thats why I bought her.
Pick up some 30mm m3 nylon bolts to attach the skids with. They will save your frames in a crash. They will shear instead of your frames breaking.
I picked mine up from Micro Fasteners while I was at the toledo show.

[aeroxfrank]

i`ve crashed last weekend with the 7hv i went to low on the high grass
and went fast in it
``only`` damage was everything around the frame


this was the flight before it crashed

[stevehof]

Let's see, the Xera 4530 is rated for 5000 watts continuous and up to 10,000 watts momentary. At 5000 watts and 12s you are pulling nearly 115 amps through your 120 amp rated ESC. I thought most folks running that class of motor were running 160 amp ESCs?? You did say you were just now beginning to "push the power system"...

[NRPY]

The flashing LEDs on the Jive should tell if it was a thermal, an over current, or something else.

[GimpyGolden]

Originally Posted by jmackey

I'm using the CC 6.5 connectors between the ESC and motor. On top of the increased current handling, these are relatively short, which makes it a little easier fit. Very easy to get a perfect solder connection with these also.

I shortened the wires on the motor and ESC, doubled up on the heatshrink and seperated the connections. A friends 7HV (with 4530) cutout in flight when there was an arc between these connections (they were double insulated as well, but bundled together).

Ya gotta keep 'em se-perated!

Jay

Shortening the motor wires on some is not a good idea.
Usually the windings them selves are the motor leads and the wire is epoxy coated and cannot be soldiered.
There are some motors where the windings terminate internally and a silicone covered wire exits the can as your motor lead.

I guess the Xera's motor leads aren't just the windings exiting the can if you were able to solder to them.

Beware on other motors though guy's as you will not be able to soldier on the epoxy coated section.

[EricW]

He's right indeed.
Don't do it with multi strand wires like on the 4035-560....
Don't ask me why please
Those wires are mechanically cleaned from coating in the factory.
And only far enough too hold the original length.
I had to clean the wire ends with acid and polishing them with a dremel steel brush one by one.
Took me a couple of hours

[jmackey]

Good point.
I heard that was the case with some motors, but have a friend that had done it on both of his 4530's already. I didn't have any problems soldering the shortened motor leads on either of my 4530's but it sounds like it might be a problem with some motors.

Jay