XK K110 6G/3D Calibration

[D-an-W]

Morning folks, my K110 arrived and I am in the process of setting it up with my Devo 10 (4-in-1 Module installed).

Has anyone with a new K110 carried out the Gyro calibration and noticed what state the LED's are in during the procedure?

According to the comprehensive manual () in 6G calibration the Red LED should flash slowly but when I try (Channel 5 reading -100%) I get the Red LED on all the time and the Blue LED flashing slowly after holding the Elevator down for three seconds (Throttle also is fully off) then after a short hover if I land and hold the Elevator down again the Blue LED returns to always on.

When I try 3D Calibration (Channel 5 reading +100%) with both sticks held down and out, the Blue LED flashes fast for a couple of seconds and then stops at the same time the Red LED flashes twice.

I am following the procedure as posted on RCG but I was told there is possibly an updated procedure for the newer RX/FC which I have yet to find.

To tune the handsfree hover in 6G mode, try this:

1. Switch on TX
2. Switch on K110 and wait for it to bind to TX
3. Switch to 6G mode
4. With the throttle stick down, pull down the elevator stick and hold the position
5. Wait for LED (I did not check which one) to blink
6. Lift off K110 and hover it in one spot
7. While the K110 is hovering in one spot slowly land the heli and keep the throttle at 0
8. Pull down the elevator stick again and hold the position
9. Wait for the LED to stop blinking and you're finished with the calibration


I've not tested 3D gyroscope calibration but I'm sure the steps are like below :

(MODE 2)
1. Switch on TX
2. Switch on K110 and wait for it to bind to TX
3. Switch to 3D mode
4. Move and hold the throttle stick to the bottom left location. At the same time move and hold the cyclic stick to the bottom right location.
5. Wait for LED (I did not check which one) to blink
6. Wait until the LED stop blinking and the gyroscope calibration is complete

Originally Posted by Wargamer

The TH and DR switches are where you would expect. The FMOD switch is a 2-position toggle. The G.S/GEAR switch is also a 2-position toggle with the high position turning on the 6-axis stability features. (This can be on or off in either flight mode.)

Can I just confirm, with the stock controller you are either in 6G or 3D?

[Wargamer]

Originally Posted by D-an-W

Can I just confirm, with the stock controller you are either in 6G or 3D?

Saying it that way probably over simplifies the options available. To clarify...you have a Flight Mode switch with two positions and you can set the pitch and throttle curves separately for each mode. You then have the 6G switch, which can either be on or off. If it's on, you have stability features enabled, meaning it will limit your bank input somewhat and also try to self level. Finally, you have a two-position rate switch where you can set DR and expo completely independently of the other two switches.

So, technically, you are either in 6G mode or you aren't, and if you are in 6G mode you certainly won't be able to do 3D. But even when in 6G mode, you can have more or less aggressive pitch and throttle curves, as well as more or less aggressive DR and expo.

On calibration...
I have two K110s and a K120, and I don't think I've ever done a calibration. Unless you have guidance that calibration is required when using the Devo tx, I would just fly it and see.

Also, if this is your first cp heli, I would recommend flying outside, over grass if possible. It's possible to fly it in the house or a parking lot, but that's much more likely to result in damage from crashes. A nice small field is the best place to start.

[D-an-W]

Thanks for the explanation Wargamer, thats kind of how I ended up with it working.

I have...
A two way switch for Dual Rates (70% DR / 30 Expo - 100% DR / 30 Expo).
A two way switch for 6G / 3D selection.
A two way switch for "sticky" Throttle Hold.
A three way switch for Beginner - Intermediate - Expert (Throttle & Collective Pitch) which allows me to fly indoors!

[BrokeDad]

Thanks for posting this. When I first got my K110 it was just terrible trim wise. After the calibration flight it was perfect. The Engrish in the manual isn't very clear.

[hilarious]

Originally Posted by BrokeDad

Thanks for posting this. When I first got my K110 it was just terrible trim wise. After the calibration flight it was perfect. The Engrish in the manual isn't very clear.

hello guys,
my k110 won't enter calibration mode anymore. I'm proceeding as explained by the OP, but the led won't blink. it was working flawlessly until yesterday. any ideas?
thanks.

[bredler]

Originally Posted by hilarious

hello guys,
my k110 won't enter calibration mode anymore. I'm proceeding as explained by the OP, but the led won't blink. it was working flawlessly until yesterday. any ideas?
thanks.

1) make sure it's in 6G mode
2) make sure you have rates selected that go to 100% in all directions. Expo is ok but the end points need to hit 100%. Otherwise the heli will only see whatever your max rate is...for example if you have DR 85% selected, the heli control board only ever receives signal for 85 and thinks the stick isn't all the way down.

[Dave Cal]

My 110 seems to only stay in 6G mode. I'm using a 18SZ transmitter. I have Gyro on a switch. Gyro set at 75 for 6G and 25 for 3D. But I don't see a difference. If I turn gyro down to 0 then there is a difference but it's not flyable at that point. Gyro is on channel 6. Any ideas?

Dave

[hilarious]

Originally Posted by bredler

1) make sure it's in 6G mode
2) make sure you have rates selected that go to 100% in all directions. Expo is ok but the end points need to hit 100%. Otherwise the heli will only see whatever your max rate is...for example if you have DR 85% selected, the heli control board only ever receives signal for 85 and thinks the stick isn't all the way down.

It won't work. I've tried what you suggested and all "other" possibilities, but nothing. I remember I could activate "hovering mode" easily before, w/o any special attention to the end points or whatsoever.
Could you please confirm the procedure to factory reset the x6 radio? Turn it off and then press MODE and BACK at the same time? It isn't working either.
Thanks.

[salrica]

Originally Posted by Dave Cal

My 110 seems to only stay in 6G mode. I'm using a 18SZ transmitter. I have Gyro on a switch. Gyro set at 75 for 6G and 25 for 3D. But I don't see a difference. If I turn gyro down to 0 then there is a difference but it's not flyable at that point. Gyro is on channel 6. Any ideas?

Dave

Go negative -25 and positive 75% on your gyro values
What do you mean that is not flyable at 0%, too sensitive?
Negative on expo, channel 1 and 2 and no expo on channel 4

[Dave Cal]

Originally Posted by salrica

Go negative -25 and positive 75% on your gyro values
What do you mean that is not flyable at 0%, too sensitive?
Negative on expo, channel 1 and 2 and no expo on channel 4

Thanks, I just tried that and the 18SZ will not go negative values on gyro. I'm not using expo on any of the channels. Yes, at 0 it is way too sensitive for me. But I'm just learning. I don't have any problems with FBLs in real flight 7.5. Also I'm able to hover my TREX 500 tail in. I also have a K120 with the included transmitter and no-way can I control that in the 3D mode. Just tried it. So maybe my skill set is not up to it yet.

Dave

[JPCOPter]

Still tying to get mine to the "no touch" hover level.
Problem is that it pulls to the left a bit and it makes it harder to hover still when in the calibration mode, not sure if i should just put a lot of trim on the tx or be adjusting the servo links

[salrica]

Originally Posted by Dave Cal

Thanks, I just tried that and the 18SZ will not go negative values on gyro. I'm not using expo on any of the channels. Yes, at 0 it is way too sensitive for me. But I'm just learning. I don't have any problems with FBLs in real flight 7.5. Also I'm able to hover my TREX 500 tail in. I also have a K120 with the included transmitter and no-way can I control that in the 3D mode. Just tried it. So maybe my skill set is not up to it yet.


××××So, I would recommend you -30 of expo, if you go positive on expo, it will make it more sensitive.
Channel 1 and 2 -30 expo.
Do the stick calibration and the 6g, 3d×××
""""Like the V977, this copter has the option to adjust the hover in 6G mode. As the manual isn't too clear on this, I was happy to see member Anderu come up with a translation of the manual's "borken chinglish"


To tune the handsfree hover in 6G mode, try this:

1. Switch on TX
2. Switch on K110 and wait for it to bind to TX
3. Switch to 6G mode
4. With the throttle stick down, pull down the elevator stick and hold the position
5. Wait for LED (I did not check which one) to blink
6. Lift off K110 and hover it in one spot
7. While the K110 is hovering in one spot slowly land the heli and keep the throttle at 0
8. Pull down the elevator stick again and hold the position
9. Wait for the LED to stop blinking and you're finished with the calibration


I've not tested 3D gyroscope calibration but I'm sure the steps are like below :

(MODE 2)
1. Switch on TX
2. Switch on K110 and wait for it to bind to TX
3. Switch to 3D mode
4. Move and hold the throttle stick to the bottom left location. At the same time move and hold the cyclic stick to the bottom right location.
5. Wait for LED (I did not check which one) to blink
6. Wait until the LED stop blinking and the gyroscope calibration is complete"""



Dave

Originally Posted by JPCOPter

Still tying to get mine to the "no touch" hover level.
Problem is that it pulls to the left a bit and it makes it harder to hover still when in the calibration mode, not sure if i should just put a lot of trim on the tx or be adjusting the servo links

Don't do either, if you already did that, you are messing with the controller settings, it will see that as an input, always.
Make sure that you have 0° at mid stick, blades parallel to boom, no blade up or down of each other when checking 0° and blades folded, if one is out of track, play with links lenght, equal turns on each link until you see just one blade. Usually is just one turn, don't do more that 2 turns either way, in or out.
Then equal pitch at low and high stick, do this in 3d mode, even if you don't use 3d yet, if the pitch is not equal, use pitch curves to get equal pitch, end points. On 6g mode you would not see equal pitch, but use pitch curves that comes in the book let instructions as a guide.

[JustPlaneChris]

Originally Posted by Dave Cal

My 110 seems to only stay in 6G mode. I'm using a 18SZ transmitter. I have Gyro on a switch. Gyro set at 75 for 6G and 25 for 3D. But I don't see a difference. If I turn gyro down to 0 then there is a difference but it's not flyable at that point. Gyro is on channel 6. Any ideas?

Dave

Dave, unless I'm mistaken I believe gyro needs to be on channel 5 for the K110...

[Dave Cal]

Originally Posted by JustPlaneChris

Dave, unless I'm mistaken I believe gyro needs to be on channel 5 for the K110...

It's on 5 . I typo'd my post.

Dave

[hoversmooth999]

Hello Guys, tonight I spent some time and several batteries through flying my 110 and I think I may have come upon another possible method to having your 110 trimmed out. I've been flying helicopters for a good number of years and I'm a stickler for having a perfect flying bird. First off, "Does the calibration process help this bird"? Well it may help a little in the stability, but to correct an out off trim heli I may have another possible solution which may help some off you. I tested the calibration process several different times but my bird still wanted to pull to the left. The only way I could get a hands off hover was by using digital trims, but of course we all know that that is not a good method on a 3D heli. So Here It Is... I took a closer look at my heli and noticed the receiver board was mounted on some ultra squishy foam. I also noticed that when on a level surface and looking from the front that the little board was not sitting level to the ground due to the servo wires pulling down on it from one side. Coincidentally, it was at an angle that would force my heli to lean to the left in flight for the board to be level! Temporary answer is that I ran the ESC wire on the opposite side around the canopy post to pull down on that side in turn pulling the board down level with the ground. Perfect flight now. Why would such foam be used? Well I would think it is the reason people can fly this helicopter crash after crash. It absorbs all the vibrations from the bent spindles, bent main shafts and chipped (nicked) out of balance blades that people are flying these with. So check that your receiver/gyro board is sitting perfectly flat on its mount...Sorry if this is late or already mentioned. Hope this helps.

[lotaloi]

Originally Posted by hoversmooth999

Hello Guys, tonight I spent some time and several batteries through flying my 110 and I think I may have come upon another possible method to having your 110 trimmed out. I've been flying helicopters for a good number of years and I'm a stickler for having a perfect flying bird. First off, "Does the calibration process help this bird"? Well it may help a little in the stability, but to correct an out off trim heli I may have another possible solution which may help some off you. I tested the calibration process several different times but my bird still wanted to pull to the left. The only way I could get a hands off hover was by using digital trims, but of course we all know that that is not a good method on a 3D heli. So Here It Is... I took a closer look at my heli and noticed the receiver board was mounted on some ultra squishy foam. I also noticed that when on a level surface and looking from the front that the little board was not sitting level to the ground due to the servo wires pulling down on it from one side. Coincidentally, it was at an angle that would force my heli to lean to the left in flight for the board to be level! Temporary answer is that I ran the ESC wire on the opposite side around the canopy post to pull down on that side in turn pulling the board down level with the ground. Perfect flight now. Why would such foam be used? Well I would think it is the reason people can fly this helicopter crash after crash. It absorbs all the vibrations from the bent spindles, bent main shafts and chipped (nicked) out of balance blades that people are flying these with. So check that your receiver/gyro board is sitting perfectly flat on its mount...Sorry if this is late or already mentioned. Hope this helps.

So, if your heli tends to be moving left due to the FC bord leaning left what if u connect the battery keeping the heli tilted a bit right??? Logically that should solve the problem isn't it?

[RLP1961]

I've got a similar issue. In 3D mode the KX110 flies pretty trimmed out. But when I switch to 6G mode (accelerometer feedback on), it veers left immediately, so much that even full right aileron stick will not stop it. I tried the gyro calibration (full down left throttle stick and full down right aileron/elevator stick) multiple times. It seems like the lights flash and then go solid OK. But then it still veers hard left. Nothing seems to change it.