Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect START  HERE


Unregistered
Go Back   HeliFreak > R/C Batteries and Charging Support > LiIon, LiPo, NiCd & NiMh General


LiIon, LiPo, NiCd & NiMh General General Battery Support


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-03-2015, 11:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2015
Angry EC5 male is for the battery?

Several weeks ago, I bought a few male and female EC5 connectors from ProgressiveRC: http://www.progressiverc.com/ec5-connectors.html. If you look closely at the dropdown box at that link, it says: "4 male (for battery)" and "4 female (for charger/ESC)". I ordered a few of each.

Those arrived a couple of weeks ago and I put them away, forgetting exactly what I ordered. Today, I finally got around to putting these on my batteries. It's my first time soldering big connectors like this. I watched videos, practiced technique on some length of 10ga wire, etc. Finally, I did four of the actual batteries. Before starting, I checked several places to be sure I remembered correctly, "the female connector goes on the battery". So, I opened the PRC package labeled "EC5 female connectors" and by the time I did the 3rd and 4th batt, I was pretty happy with the process. I can do it pretty consistently.

I then looked at my parallel charge board, and see that has the same connector that I just put on four batts. WTF!?!?!?!

I'm confused and a little angry. The connector soldered on my batts has the larger plastic housing, the other gender goes inside this housing. However, this female housing has pins inside and not sockets. The smaller male housing has the sockets. I thought the gender of a connector was determined by the plastic shroud and not the pins inside. The labels on the package from PRC match this thinking, the "female" package has the larger plastic housing. But, looking at the dropdown from the PRC link, they clearly intended that I use the other gender for my batts. Why? What do you all do? Which EC5 connector is the "male" and which one will I generally find on batteries vs ESCs?

P.S. I haven't soldered anything on my ESC yet, so I know I can still make this situation work, but I don't want to have a reverse gender setup from everyone else. I want my ESC to be consistent with what I found out in the world so I don't have to go around thinking about gender after I've put the connectors on.
kirby_ is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-04-2015, 12:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 583
 

Join Date: Jan 2007
Default

Typically you always use the male PINs on the esc side and the female on the battery side. This is true to deans and all other connectors I'm aware of. The EC5 makes things confusing by using the female casing on the male side and the male casing on the female side.

With all other electronics we go by the pins, not the casing. If it were me I would do male pins in the female casing on the charger/esc side and female pins in the male casing on the battery side. That way you are standard and can get charge leads that work, such as:

http://www.progressiverc.com/paralle...rge-cable.html

Another source for quality EC5 connectors is here:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...e_Female_.html

Notice the male pins, how they have spines on the side. I think they are much nicer than the ones that have split pins that wear out.
akschu is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 08:10 AM   #3 (permalink)
Registered Users
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Feb 2015
Default

Yea, after posting I found this:
http://www.progressiverc.com/blog/connectortype/

I incorrectly assumed that if it was labeled "female" on the package it went on the batt side. I completely forgot that the PRC ordering page said "male (for battery) when I ordered three weeks ago. I really think the package shouldn't be labeled "female" if it's not for the batt side. After careful examination, there is a small embossed "batt" label on one side, but I don't know if I would have ever seen that if I didn't go looking for it.

Ok, so related question:
I would like to remove these female EC5 connectors from the battery, saving as much length of the battery discharge wires as possible. I know I'll end up destroying the housing and pins, that'll be my "not paying attention tax". What's the best way to do this? Can I just cut away the housing and heat the pins until the wire comes free? Is there an easier way? Obviously, I'll do it one side at a time so I never have both + and - wires uncovered at the same time.
kirby_ is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,089
 

Join Date: Aug 2010
Default

Yup just cut the housing with an exacto knife length-wise on one side so you only get one of the bullets out, desolder it, put a new one on, put it in the new plastic end, then do the other side.
If you can, use a piece of 2x4 and drill 1/4" deep holes that are the same as the external diam. of the bullets, and use that to hold them while working on them. It will be much easier to keep the bullets heated while soldering/desoldering as wood does not conduct heat very well. This was a game changer for me a few years ago no matter how good iron I had (and a ton of soldering experience), I struggled with keeping consistent heat on the bullets.
__________________
I am a Heli-Coholic! Citizen #207
PRÔTOS Max v2 PRÔTOS 380 Speed Goblin 380 Blade 180CFX
MKS KDE MSH Brain
Tomy. is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
Registered Users
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Feb 2015
Default

Thanks for the advice! I've got a good jig already for the bullets. I'll pull them apart tonight.

Here's a question, how should I clean up any solder on the outside of the cups? I use a big flat tip and tin it a bit do I can actually heat the cup, but this leaves a mess on the outside of the cup which makes it difficult to put click into the housing. So far I have managed by using a clean tip to kind of spread the overspill, but I'd prefer a way to actually clean the cup.
kirby_ is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 43,815
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: May 2008
Default

"Females are hot!"... an easy way of remembering that the female connector goes on the lipo... assuming you are not gay

Use a torch.. so easy this way!

Soldering EC5 connectors with a torch lighter. (3 min 16 sec)
__________________
"It's not just a hobby... it's a lifestyle" - Pete ϟ MINNESOTA!
Goblin 500 + 700 / SK540 / Jives / DX8 / Quantum / RJX servos / 306b / Deep cycles
Slyster is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
Registered Users
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Feb 2015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyster View Post
"Females are hot!"... an easy way of remembering that the female connector goes on the lipo... assuming you are not gay
I did remember this, that was the problem!

In my original post, I said:
Quote:
I checked several places to be sure I remembered correctly, "the female connector goes on the battery". So, I opened the PRC package labeled "EC5 female connectors" and...
The plastic housing is female, but not the contacts. I trusted the package label. My fault.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slyster View Post
I saw that yesterday and bought a little butane torch for this. Its LOW setting puts out way too large a flame I end up scaring my jig and a few things around it. Can you recommend a specific model torch that gives me more control?
kirby_ is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 4,707
 

Join Date: Mar 2011
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirby_ View Post
Several weeks ago, I bought a few male and female EC5 connectors from ProgressiveRC: http://www.progressiverc.com/ec5-connectors.html. If you look closely at the dropdown box at that link, it says: "4 male (for battery)" and "4 female (for charger/ESC)". I ordered a few of each.

Those arrived a couple of weeks ago and I put them away, forgetting exactly what I ordered. Today, I finally got around to putting these on my batteries. It's my first time soldering big connectors like this. I watched videos, practiced technique on some length of 10ga wire, etc. Finally, I did four of the actual batteries. Before starting, I checked several places to be sure I remembered correctly, "the female connector goes on the battery". So, I opened the PRC package labeled "EC5 female connectors" and by the time I did the 3rd and 4th batt, I was pretty happy with the process. I can do it pretty consistently.

I then looked at my parallel charge board, and see that has the same connector that I just put on four batts. WTF!?!?!?!

I'm confused and a little angry. The connector soldered on my batts has the larger plastic housing, the other gender goes inside this housing. However, this female housing has pins inside and not sockets. The smaller male housing has the sockets. I thought the gender of a connector was determined by the plastic shroud and not the pins inside. The labels on the package from PRC match this thinking, the "female" package has the larger plastic housing. But, looking at the dropdown from the PRC link, they clearly intended that I use the other gender for my batts. Why? What do you all do? Which EC5 connector is the "male" and which one will I generally find on batteries vs ESCs?

P.S. I haven't soldered anything on my ESC yet, so I know I can still make this situation work, but I don't want to have a reverse gender setup from everyone else. I want my ESC to be consistent with what I found out in the world so I don't have to go around thinking about gender after I've put the connectors on.
Shame they probably meant the Female housing which takes the male bullets. where the Male housing takes the female bullets.

Oh never mind it was spelled out on the site

Battery Connection: Female bullets inside the small (male) housing - the squared off housing is Positive.
ESC/Charger Connection: Male bullets inside the larger (female) housing - the squared off housing is Positive

Oh well look at it as soldering practice
__________________
__________
Goblin 380, 500, 570, Mikado 690SX, 480Xx(Stretched 500) , Protos Mini, Max V2 , Oxy 3, Vbar Control/Neo Vlink (Citizen 758)YouTubeProgress:http://tinyurl.com/oliver1071
oliver1071 is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
Registered Users
 
Posts: 43,815
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: May 2008
Default

I use these for everything.. fires, stove, cigars, soldering... love them.

http://www.dx.com/p/2000-c-tri-flame...9#.VUeu9tpViko
__________________
"It's not just a hobby... it's a lifestyle" - Pete ϟ MINNESOTA!
Goblin 500 + 700 / SK540 / Jives / DX8 / Quantum / RJX servos / 306b / Deep cycles
Slyster is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2015, 12:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
Registered Users
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Feb 2015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oliver1071 View Post
Oh well look at it as soldering practice
Amen brother. I was pissed about it last night, but today I just look at it as practice.

Quick update: I tried using the torch again last night and I got much better at it. I thought the torch was damaging my jig, burning the wire insulation, etc. I was being silly. It's just carbon from the very tip section of the flame. Last night, I put on three correct connectors using only the torch. Man that's fast, a second or two of torch to get solder in the cup, a second or two to get the tinned wire secured in the cup, let it cool a bit, help it along with some compressed air, pop it in the housing.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Last edited by kirby_; 05-05-2015 at 01:36 PM..
kirby_ is offline        Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply




Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the HeliFreak forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your REAL and WORKING email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. Use a real email address or you will not be granted access to the site. Thank you.
Email Address:
Location
Where do you live? ie: Country, State, City or General Geographic Location please.
Name and Lastname
Enter name and last name here. (This information is not shown to the general public. Optional)
Helicopter #1
Enter Helicopter #1 type and equipment.
Helicopter #2
Enter Helicopter #2 type and equipment.
Helicopter #3
Enter Helicopter #3 type and equipment.
Helicopter #4
Enter Helicopter #4 type and equipment.

Log-in


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




Copyright © Website Acquisitions Inc. All rights reserved.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1