Pipe fell off mid flight TSA 700N OS 105

[msallua]

Originally Posted by dchekas

I only use Permatex RTV, no gasket.

Ok,.. another question...

In engine mounts (which also have high temperatures).

To prevent the engine loose . Should I use Permatex High-Temp RTV too?

[mqowen]

Originally Posted by msallua

Ok,.. another question...

In engine mounts (which also have high temperatures).

To prevent the engine loose . Should I use Permatex High-Temp RTV too?

I found a high temp thread lock. Seems to be working fairly well for me. Made by loctiite.

[Rob43]

Ive never noted motor mounts to loosen w/ std blue threadlock

[mqowen]

Originally Posted by Rob43

Ive never noted motor mounts to loosen w/ std blue threadlock

Agree

[msallua]

Ok, last question, Blue loctite in the screws of the picture? Fan screws, fan mount screws, and clutch screw
Thanks

[Jim Hansen]

Clutch screws use red lock tight blue is ok for the rest also on my 700's i use alot of red because vibration .Sorry about the pipe lost it happen on 700 in 08 i was using a align pipe and started using red ,but i went to Hatori and never lost one again.

Good luck and happy NITRO flying!!!!

[Jim Hansen]

Also red on the hub nut.

[banditpowdercoat]

I use blue on everything and had nothing come loose. I use the stick type locktite. Hate the bottles now.

[Rob43]

+1. I've had best results with medium blue threadlock. On the nut which is used for the crank shaft, I think using red threadlock is just asking for hub damage when removing. And you will be removing it. Normal maintenance to replace engine rear bearings. You have to use a crank tool to anchor the crank for removing the nut, and Iv'e just not found the plastic crank tools to be very secure for needing to apply alot of torque on removing that nut. And frankly, it's only supposed to be tightened snugly (although, yes, it needs to stay that way), after the clamping bolts are tight. But I've never had any of mine come apart, except for the Thunder Tiger design, where the fan hub doesn't clamp to the crank, but rather is threaded on. The crank nut works as a jam nut in that case. This design sucks.

[mqowen]

Originally Posted by abit late

I wouldn't use any threadlock at all on engine bolts including those for the muffler. The high temps liquify the threadlock and turn it into a lube. Also exhaust bolts need to be tightened after each flight for the first three or four. This should be done when the engine is still warm.
Any light weight thin card makes a good gasket.

They make a high temp locktite. White in color.

[Rob43]

That would be pretty ideal. But there really isn't a tremendous heat on the prop nut. Cooler than cylinder temps. My main issue with red on the pro nut is getting a good hold of the crank/fan to remove it. Can't use heat since the fan is plastic. Also can't really grip it heavily without distorting it. That leaves the crank tool to hold while removing the prop nut. Just that I've had a bad time when using the red on that one location.

[HunkaJunk]

I had this happen once as well, I made a drill guide tool and drilled the heads of the cap screws to accept .015" lock wire. It hasn't happened since. I also use only a thin paper gasket, as the thin gasket will not crush down and cause the muffler bolts to come loose.