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Thunder Tiger Electric Helis Mini Titan E325, Raptor E550 and E620 SE Helicopters


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Old 03-28-2012, 11:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Blade Spacer

Some new blades that I have don't quite fit in the MT grips.

I know that a blade spacer is needed.

Easiest option would be to use some washers I suppose - but where to put them? Above the blade, below the blade? Or if I need more than 1 should I put 1 under/1 above?

Do the washers have to be metal or is it ok to use something hard like nylon?

Are washers actually ok to use - are they just as good as a proper blade spacer? A proper blade spacer has more surface area though doesn't it? Wouldn't it be better to have the better surface area than jamming a smaller washer down on the blade?

Scott.
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Old 03-29-2012, 03:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Why not to use original stock spacers PV0829?

I guess i wouldn't use metal if you really want to use something else. I don't actually think these are needed at all. Never found out their function but yes i have them mounted and one spare just in case.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:07 AM   #3 (permalink)
 

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Some blades are too thick to allow the use of the TT spacer. I use Mavrikk blades, and while the 335mm blades are thin enough to use the spacer, 325mm blades are too thick to slide a spacer in, yet too thin to be used without.

If you have to use a single shim (can be plastic, metal, etc) doesn't matter if you put them top or bottom, as long as it's the same each side.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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When i got blades that are too thick, i used sand paper on them so spacer can go in. I think it's described in the manual that way i think.
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:09 AM   #5 (permalink)
 

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When i got blades that are too thick, i used sand paper on them so spacer can go in. I think it's described in the manual that way i think.
That's for wooden blades in the v1 Pro manual - you sand the roots for when you are gluing the plastic blade root cover, so the glue has a rough surface to stick to.
Don't know how successful you would be sanding carbon fibre. On my carbon blades there's a sodding great metal reinforcing ring around the grip bolt holes, which definitely won't sand.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Cheers guys, appreciate the help.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B335 View Post
Some blades are too thick to allow the use of the TT spacer. I use Mavrikk blades, and while the 335mm blades are thin enough to use the spacer, 325mm blades are too thick to slide a spacer in, yet too thin to be used without.

If you have to use a single shim (can be plastic, metal, etc) doesn't matter if you put them top or bottom, as long as it's the same each side.
what did you use for the spacer then for the maverikk 325's? I have some G5 Pro 325 coming monday and didn't think of that
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Old 03-30-2012, 04:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
 

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I used a thin washer out of my spares box CA'd to the top of the blade. Don't know where they were from. You tend to collect things over the months in this hobby, plus I never bin anything.

I did think all Mavrikks would have the same blade root thickness, but I've got 305, 315, 325 and 335mm blades, and the 335s are the only ones which slot straight in with the TT spacers. All the others I have to rummage in the spares box for washers of the right thickness to allow me to use em.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the reply. Interesting the longest ones are the thin ones. I've got something that will work around somewhere if needed.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Sanding works mostly fine. I do that on all the blades for MT and never had wooden ones.
There is metal spacer yes, but mostly you need to just sand the paint around it and maybe a little of the blade itself. Spacer is not long enough.
On X50 i had to grind even the spacer on the blades because it was too long and it made blade too loose in the grip eventho i was not able to tighten it more (because the spacer was long enough for the grip to not come closer).
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:53 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I had to shim my Pro 3D CF blades 0.30mm each.

I use the Curtis Youngblood 325 shims..I always keep a couple pack of these around. They are cool because they come in two different thicknesses(0.15 & 0.25mm), so you just stack them until you get the correct thickness.
http://helidirect.com/curtis-youngbl...m1-p-23745.hdx
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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got my G5 Pro VST 325s today and I was able to just use the normal blade spacers. Didn't need any extra shims. Tightened up nice and even. Go figure. They look great. Can't wait to try 'em tomorrow. I put them up next to the Align blades I was using, longer and quite a bit more chord. Should be great.
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