Blade mCP X BL Tips & Tricks - post em here!

[dragnse7en]

Hi everyone

Although I have read here that some people have some other issues with their BL models, I've been lucky enough not to experience them. I'd like start this thread and share some tips and tricks that may help everyone out with their mCP X BL model. If anyone else has other tips and/or tricks for setup, maintenance, and so on please post them here

1. 3-in-1 Mainboard

• The Voltage Regulator stack gets pretty warm, if not downright hot when the heli is powered on. Be sure that the small antenna has enough clearance away from that chip on the board. Re-check the antenna's position after every crash and rebuild or overhaul.
• Out of the box, the battery plug is touching the Voltage Regulator, or is very close to it. I re-routed the lead by removing the main board from the frame, and placed the leads in between the two mounting posts, and then re-attached the board. Now the they are away from the Voltage Regulator and the wires looks cleaner as well.

2. Tail Boom

• The stock boom is susceptible to end-damage. I reinforced this with some thin CA, sealing up the flat key feature and end. A cotton swab will soak up any excess so that the boom can still fit properly in the main frame's socket.
• To reinforce the boom's radial length, I used a 1/4" heat shrink tubing and cut it to 1-3/8" length, and positioned it 1/2" from the end, enough for the 3 wires from getting pinched. Holding it at 1/2" away, I heated it up evenly, from the center to the edges, and then sealed up each end with some thin CA glue.
• The three tail motor wires should be looped under the canopy mount, and not over it. In other words, the wires should overlap on the bottom of the mount.

3. Landing Skids

• Use Shoe Goo or any plastic-friendly rubber cement to secure the skids in the main frame's holes to prevent them from popping off during hard 3D flights.

4. Canopy Mounting Post Repair

• Here is a DIY repair video to fix broken canopy mounts - even the one that is connected to the AR bar -

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjDy4hDDMVQ[/ame]




5. Rotor Head

• As parts on the head may show some wear, it's a good idea to add dampers to the swash-to-grip links. I added some soft silicone size 001 dampers to the whole head, replacing the harder black rubber ones on the swash.

Here is a link for those soft silicone o-rings -

Silicone o-rings Size 001 for 100 pcs

[dragnse7en]

A. Feathering Spindle

1. Straight from the factory, the FS has been secured with thread locking compound. When it comes time to disassemble the feathering spindle, it may be a little tough to break the bolts. Some BNF kits have been known to have too much thread locking compound added. Please be aware that the screw head may break off, so take care when breaking the bond. The best tools to service the FS are 1.5mm hex drivers, as opposed to the supplied Allen keys from the kit.
2. There are two small washers on the FS srews - do not loose these! They are tiny, and prevent the SHCS from snapping off under pressure. In the event that one is lost, it's highly recommended to get a replacement. Blade's replacement hardware set (part #BLH3917) has these essential washers, and costs a lot less than the replacement FS itself.
3. Use a cigarette lighter or micro torch, hold it with some pliers, and heat up the FS shaft to clean out the old thread locking compound. Clean the FS up after with some rubbing alcohol and let dry. The center of the FS is solid, so there is no worry of pinching or warping. If using a micro torch, use a low flame; it won't take much heat to do the trick.
4. When re-assembling the FS, tighten the two 1.5mm SHCSs until they stop. do not over-tighten! Don't risk stripping out the screw head or the tool, or worse yet, shearing the screw head off.

B. Rotor Hub

1. Out of the box, the rotor hub's FS dampers are completely dry. They will need a plastic-friendly thick grease for proper lubrication, such as Associated Electric's Green Slime; here's a link - Team Associated FT Green Slime. Yes, it is made for shock shafts, but it's the best plastic friendly synthetic grease on the market, and it's pretty cheap considering the prices of synthetic bearing oil. Lube the seats inside where the dampers reside, and lightly slather a dollop of the synthetic grease on the dampers themselves, and re-install.
2. Removing the hub screw and popping the hub off, the main shaft's hole may have wear from the threads of the screw. Seal the edges of the hole with thin CA glue, taking care not to get any excess run elsewhere on the outside of the shaft.

C. Blade Grips

1. It is okay to have a tiny amount of play between the grips and the FS. This cannot be changed without shortening the ends of the FS, since the SHCSs ride on the outside races of the outer bearings.
2. Inspect the top and sides of each blade grip for cracks, by giving the part a gentle twist. Any cracks while twisting it should show up, and if so, replace as necessary.
3. The bearings can pop out for easy cleaning and care, and the end of the FS is a handy tool to pop them out and re-seat them properly.
4. Grip tension is sometimes a personal preference, however, out of the box, they are set on the loose side. Since the main blades have considerable girth vs its predecessor, light grip tension would be a favorable for an initial setting.

[gabeoravitz]

Good info. Thanks.

I find it strange that the FET on this gets so hot. Heat=waste, as we all know. So I wonder why they didn't use something that was a little more efficient.

[denots]

Originally Posted by gabeoravitz

Good info. Thanks.

I find it strange that the FET on this gets so hot. Heat=waste, as we all know. So I wonder why they didn't use something that was a little more efficient.

How about trying a 3rd fet and see what will happen cool warm or still hot .

[dragnse7en]

Originally Posted by denots

How about trying a 3rd fet and see what will happen cool warm or still hot .

We would certainly prefer to keep everything to the basics.

I want to try and keep this all simple for every skill level

[BadVad]

This thread is high quality sticky material!

[dragnse7en]

Since there's a snow storm coming here this weekend, I'll hunt down that micro heat sink I saw I long time ago, and see if they still make 'em and hopefully get us a bunch of them for that angry hot FET

[hoverfun]

I have some heat sink tape, will that work on the fet?

[dragnse7en]

It sure would If it's the industrial stuff, it should stick a heat sink to it for quite a while. I don't know the proceedures that they use to build the boards over in China, so, it'd be a good idea to prep up the surface before putting it on. I've seen boards shipped from Malaysia to my job, and the "new" parts had dirt all over them. Looked like cinnamon powder.

Funny thing, the more I think about the heat sink I have in mind to use is off of a 3 hex RAD Hard DC to DC converter (designed it myself), used in American and French satellites. The 3 pin package has a little bit bigger area than our "evil angry FET", but that's what we'd want.

Without landing up in jail or getting sued to death for violating my confidential propreitary agreement from said job, I'll have to browse through the industrial catalog and match up the part. Lucky for us, "someone" in my house still has the CAD file of it - yeah, um, it's my cat. She's a master at 3D CAD lol.

Anyways, aside from the goofiness, I'll find it. It'll take time, but I'll find it.

[dragnse7en]

A. Materials & Tools:

1. A sharp hobby knife "Exacto knife"
2. Thin CA glue
3. Blade's part# BLH3902 - the boom
4. a micro torch, heat gun, or better yet a cigarette lighter
5. A ruler or steel rule that has imperial graduations (inches)
6. Cotton swabs (Q-tips) and/ or a wooden toothpick
7. 3/16" size heat shrink tubing
8. Simple tape

B. Proceedure & Steps:

1. Remove the existing or broken tail boom from the main frame.
2. Using gentle care, straighten out the 3 pole magnet wire that sticks out of the front end of the boom. Pay extra attention to avoid crimping or pinching the wires when doing this, and avoid touching them with fingernails.
3. Take out the ruler, hobby knife, and the 1/4" heat shrink tubing. Cut a length of 1-3/8" for roughly one-third of the boom's length.
4. Carefully slide the cut length of heat shrink tubing over the motor plug and wires. Holding the heat shrink steady and rotating the boom helps the wires pass through easy.
5. Position the front end heat shrink tubing between 7/16" to 1/2" from the front end of the boom where the wires stick out, and temporarily tack it down with some tape.
6. Using the cigarette lighter, heat gun, or appropriate heat source, slowly shrink the tubing, staring in the center, rotating the part, and work your way outwards to each end for a nice and clean look.
7. Using the thin CA glue, seal the front tip of the boom, and the flat key feature that plugs into the main frame, using a small and even coat. Use the cotton swabs to soak up any excess that may dry and add a bad fitment. Do not use Zip Kicker or any accelerator to speed up the process, as this will cause the CA glue to frost and flake off over time.
8. Reinforce the ends of the shrunken heat srink with the thin CA glue, holding the boom slightly downwards with a slow rolling action, and then tilt it upwards, and the glue will wick up in between the heat shrink and carbon fiber tube. Overlap a seal of CA glue about 1/4" over both ends of the tubing by applying a small drop and slowly rotating the part for a clean and even coat. Soak up any excess again with the cotton swabs, and let the boom dry.

Done! Just re-assemble, and note that the 3 pole magnet wire loop under the canopy mount (i.e., the wires cross under the mount, and not over).

Here's a step-by-step DIY video -

Blade mCP X BL tail boom reinforcement mod (10 min 47 sec)

[whodothevoodoo]

Done! Just re-assemble, and note that the 3 pole magnet wire loop under the canopy mount (i.e., the wires cross under the mount, and not over).
Yeah, right. You've obviously never seen my work before. OK so maybe it's not that bad, but a video would sure make it easier for and old man to figer out.

Thanks

[dragnse7en]

Originally Posted by whodothevoodoo

Done! Just re-assemble, and note that the 3 pole magnet wire loop under the canopy mount (i.e., the wires cross under the mount, and not over).
Yeah, right. You've obviously never seen my work before. OK so maybe it's not that bad, but a video would sure make it easier for and old man to figer out.

Thanks

It's on my to-do list hoss, I found out late tonight that I'll have enough time to make a video tomorrow.. 1952, eh? Do all your helis have walkers too, or do they use stone wheels as landing gear? Just kidding!

I'll post the link here when it's done!

[whodothevoodoo]

Do all your helis have walkers too, or do they use stone wheels as landing gear? Just kidding!

Oh you young smarty pants kids. You probably fly upside down and all that weird stuff...don't ya! Well ha, ha, none of my helis have any stones...and it's just a coincidence that one of them is named Deno.

Hurry up and get that video made, before I forget that I wanted to watch it.

[dragnse7en]

Okay guys, I found it! It's the same one that I was thinking of, for the main motor FET's heat problem. They still make them - yay

They are black anodized, and can be bought in singles at 59 cents each.

The dimensions for the heat sink are 8.8 x 8.8 x 5mm, a great fit for that small area.

I'll be picking up a handful on payday.

Le link -
Black Micro Passive Heastsink MOSFET Chipsink (8.8mm)

*edit -

It does come with the tape, but there's no description as to how thick it is. Add the 0.5mm thickness thermal adhesive tape to the shopping cart there. Here's a link to that tape -
3M-467 Thermally Conductive Adhesive Transfer Tapes

[whodothevoodoo]

Have you purchased from this company before? I could use a few things and purchase a couple of those heat sinks at the same time.

[dragnse7en]

I have not. They do seem to have a nice inventory to hot-rod computers, among other electronic parts for DIY projects. They're like CompUSA/ Tiger Direct, except they sell individual parts rather than wholly-built items. The shipping is steep, but I thought about it, and it's a lot less than having to replace the whole board.

[CousinLarry]

Here is canopy I made from the blister pack that a stock canopy comes in.. Two canopies for price of one!!




Came out nice. Have to get the grommets in then it's ready to go. Maybe a couple stickers too

[CousinLarry]

My blister pack canopy - just finished:

[dragnse7en]

That's a pretty cool idea with the packaging! Great job!

I updated the instructions for the tail boom reinf. mod, and added a DIY video.

Here's the link to it -
Tail boom reinforcement

[dragnse7en]

The factory's amount of slop and play between the FS and grips has bothered me until tonight. I've come up with an easy fix to completely eliminate the problem, and here's an easy step-by-step run through of the trick -

A. Tools and Materials Needed

1. Two 1.5mm Allen keys or hex drivers
2. Synthetic bearing oil
3. Two Tamiya 0.1 x 3mm shims

B. Procedure

1. Use the two 1.5mm Allen keys or drivers, and disassemble the FS.
2. Set the two step washers with the step face-up on the work surface, and add a single drop of synthetic oil to each one.

4. Place one shim on top of each step washer. Lightly press down on them and they will self-center. Be sure that the shim doesn't stick to your finger.

5. Re-assemble the FS, and slide the step washers on, with the shim facing outwards, toward the blade grips.

6. Before tightening up the FS, double check each shim and ensure that it's flat against the step washer, which will keep it centered. Tighten the FS screw all the way in, until it just stops. Do not over-tighten.

Done! Now the FS and grips have zero play and it still rotates freely

The shims come in a set, in 0.1mm, 0.2mm, and 0.3mm thicknesses. If the 0.1mm size does not take away the play, you can try out the other thicknesses to get it right.

Here's a link on where to get the 3mm shims.
Tamiya 53585 3mm Shim Set (3 Types; 10 Each)