Goblin - Project details and Build issues

[Ranger89]

Originally Posted by Thunder Fighter

Yes I am talking about the pulley with the one-way in it, it has to have some vertical movement.

//Dennis.

Sent from my phone, we don't always agree on the auto correct choices.....

Thanks Dennis! This particular thread is very helpful.

[sarah1097]

Wind wizard, you state on your set up that the blades at zero pitch must be 145 cm from the top of the tail boom to zero pitch on the blades. Is this wrong because 145 cm is almost 5 feet tall which I am, or do you mean 145 mm? Can you let me know I can not find the video where Sab shows you how to do that!!

[Ranger89]

Hey guys and gals,

Have anyone had a parts missing in their kits, or maybe a wrong part such as the wrong screw or bolt in one of the bags? Has anybody had Quality control issues right out of the box?

[Seasick78]

Originally Posted by Ranger89

Hey guys and gals,

Have anyone had a parts missing in their kits, or maybe a wrong part such as the wrong screw or bolt in one of the bags? Has anybody had Quality control issues right out of the box?

Yes - was missing a few items in the kit as well as the HPS head upgrade kit. Was also quite shocked about the cosmetic condition of a spare set if main blades.

Love the heli though. Just surprised at some of the quality issues I've experienced in a relatively short period of time.

[Mr.Gobler]

Originally Posted by Seasick78

Yes - was missing a few items in the kit as well as the HPS head upgrade kit. Was also quite shocked about the cosmetic condition of a spare set if main blades.

Love the heli though. Just surprised at some of the quality issues I've experienced in a relatively short period of time.

It happens, no one is perfect on the assembly line. Just smile nod. Contact them and say hey whats up, tell them the issue and it will be resolved..

If they won't resole it then call them on it, or start talking..

[Seasick78]

Wasn't even a complaint. Just a comment.

[windwizard]

Originally Posted by sarah1097

Wind wizard, you state on your set up that the blades at zero pitch must be 145 cm from the top of the tail boom... do you mean 145 mm?

Hi Sarah,

You are correct, 145mm.

Good eye! I can't tell you how many times that I have read over that mistake without seeing
it. Btw, an eye for detail might save somebodies life someday. lol.


If you are still interested here is the link from the data base for the official instructions on checking the "blade to
boom clearance."


TAILBOOM WARNING WARNING!

Check clearance between the blade at "0 pitch" and top of boom.
Min. distance is 145 cm, if less, - add "TAPE" under nylon bolts.

FAILURE to rectify this issue may allow for a boom strike!!
Please review the video linked below for specifics on addressing this isssue.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=395680




Wiz

[windwizard]

Ok, the time has come to repost the data base to re-activate the "edit" function to allow for ongoing edits and updates. Therefore I will need to burn up three posting positions to get it back on top of the last page of the thread for viewing convience.


Wiz

[windwizard]

Nine.....

[windwizard]

And ten...




Wiz

[windwizard]

DATED: PROJECT & BUILD "ISSUES" DATA BASE

SETUP DETAILS (updated)
Flight Style: Sport, Big Air, Lite 3D
Headspeed: 1995 power / 2075 general / 2135 cruising

Scorpion Motor 4035-560 (92 % eff.) .................................................. ... $250.00
Scorpion Motor Bearing Lubrication Kit............................................... $5.00
Scorpion ESC 130amp HV 12s with BEC............................................... $250.00
Scorpion Opto Isolation phase cable for V-BAR connection................. $6.00
Scorpion ESC Backup Guard w/Switched 500mah pack ............. $25.00
JR "y" connector for Opto cable to v-bar.............................................. $6.00
Motor pinion "19T" for new ratiof of 10.74:1.......................................... $16.00
FBL System: V-BAR Full size (blue) Ver. 5.2 ......................................... $319.99
Governor: v-bar

RX: (2 remotes for DX7) Spektrum DSM2 Remote Receivers................. $70.00
Cyclic Servos: Outrage BL9180 (8.4v)............................................ ........ $380.00
Tail Servo: Outrage BL9188 (8.4v)............................................ ............. $138.00
Futaba replacement arms for Outrage servos # 04021.......................... $17.00
(arms replaced due to tight fit next to servo support frame)

Servo Extension Tail servo............................................. ...................... $5.00
Main Blades: 690mm Stock SAB n/a
Tail Blades: 115mm Stock SAB n/a
Lipos: Turnigy 45C 6S 5000mah (x2).............................................. ....... $250.00
Wire red 10 guage .................................................. ............................. $4.00
Wire black 10 guage............................................. ................................ $4.00
EC5 connectors For Battery Harness (4 set)........................................... $6.00
M2.5x10 Screws (1bag)............................................ .............................. $4.00
(longer screws needed for mounting Torq servos)

Shrink tube (green)........................................... .................................... $15.00
Wire mesh tubing (green)........................................... .......................... $12.00
Tri Flow synthetic grease with teflon............................................ ........ $10.00
Food grade silicon spray lubricant......................................... ............... $8.00
Battery straps............................................ ............................................ $10.00
Glue gun............................................... ................................................ $9.00
JB Weld.............................................. .................................................. $8.00
Shoe Goo............................................... ............................................... $6.00
Swashplate leveler (true-blood for trex 700 nitro)................................. $25.00
SAB GOBLIN 700 Flybarless Electric Helicopter Kit............................... $1000.00
MISC. COST FOR EXTRAS AND SHIPPING TAX..................................... $75.00
___________
TOTAL $2934.00
__________________________________________________ ________________________________

Goblin "build issues" data-base.

HEADSPEED CALCULATIONS: (Calculator at readyheli.com)

http://www.readyheli.com/headspeed-calculator.html

It also includes the update/repair for the wrong gear ratios (listed in the 1.3V manual) showing the pinion drive gear having 19 teeth not the actual 20.

Example for a Scorpion 4525-520 motor

Result for calculation using 21 tooth (OPTIONAL) motor pulley

• (this will keep rpm's above head wobble zone)
• Estimated lowest voltage during flight: 42.00
• Lowest RPM (due to voltage and efficiency) : 2023
• For + performance, keep req. RPM below: 2094
• For target performance, keep req. RPM below: 2178
• For - performance, keep req. RPM below: 2241
• 21t = 9.71:1 gear ratio for headspeed calc.

Tech notes:

"Tips and tricks" video thread in SAB Forum covers the following...

• motor drive belt tensioning
• tail belt tensioning - assembly and disassembly
• blade grip arm assembly
• gluing bolt to main gear for easy assembly

(the first link will take you to both videos)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=6lAyRuMwfz8
http:/www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCsJlqsgOu0&feature=channel&list=UL

ALSO - See Mr Mels "V-BAR" video series in Mikado support area of Tech Forum.

FRAME ISSUES

Manual 1.3 - page 26 recommends de-burring the edges of the carbon frame but this should be done as the "first order of business", not after the heli is almost fully assembled. All the CF frame pieces are extemely sharp and should be dulled - it is an easy job if completed prior to assembly.


MOTOR ISSUES

The motor shaft should be cut - required length is 28.5mm
If not cut, the maximum height of the battery is 50 mm
If you cut, then maximum Battery height is increased to 60mm
Heli Direct has Quantum motors with the shaft sized for the Goblin

Maximum motor height is 68mm.

For greater motor height it's necessary to modify the opening in the canopy.
KDE 700XF-395 or KDE 495 motor will require cutting a hole in the canopy.

SAB GOBLIN USA - (In answer to my question) says..."Quantum 4530 is delta wound and there is no issue using Kontronik Jive ESC with it."

Align MX 700 is perfectly compatible

Scoprion 4035-560 is listed as a motor suitable for general flight in the Goblin manual p28.
but the mounting holes dont line up for all four screws and you will have to mount motor with only two screws!

NOTE: (patern is 30mm spacing)

Scorpion 4525-520 Ultimate - mounting pattern matches the 4 bolt motor plate

Warning! check resistance from shaft to motor leads - should be infinite ohms. If not, the mounting screws could be too long touching motor windings, this could cause an ESC FIRE and failure in flight (This issue is a general warning not specific to the Goblin)

MOTOR MOUNT PLATE - GRUB SCREW ASSEMBLY (part HC158)
Be sure that the grub screws do not thread past the bottom of motor mount plate when securing with locktite. Otherwise (later on in the build) you will find upon final installation of the motor mount plate onto the aluminum drive tray that the grub screws will not clear the z60 pulley - preventing the motor mount plate from traveling back into the position where it belongs.

SIDE NOTE: I used a small application of 5 min. epoxy to the bottom of the motor mount plate and the grub screws to strengthen their installation to keep them from turning when the nylon nuts are tightened down to hold the motor mounting plate in position.


ROTOR-HEAD ASSEMBLY

Tech note from SAB - "Use the special washer(s), page 23, if you planning to run over 2000 HS (washer is circled on page 15 of manual 1.3)

The head is assembled without the H232 part. (only for early kits)
If the headspeed is > 2000 rpm then the H232 part MUST be added (pag 33).

These shims increase the damper preload therefore increasing head rigidity. Please make sure your main blades are tight on the grips, you should be able to violently jerk the head in both directions and the blades should not fold.

Note: The rotorhead assembly is difficult to disassemble due to the strength of the factory applied Locktight. Many have achieved good results by holding the tip of a high wattage soldering iron on the blade grip bolt heads to soften and release the bolts.
(Remember to check quality and quantity of grease in rotorhead bearings while disassembled.)

Failure to tighten the blades properly and/or run incorrect dampening preload can result in a boom strike.

If you remove the shims on the head you won't have any wobble issues at lower headspeeds. ("Wobble" is present around 1900 rpm.") But you will increase the risk of a boom strike without the dampening shims!

SAB RECOMMENDATION:
KEEP THE HEAD SUPER STIFF - EVEN BY USING EXTRA DAMPENER SHIMS IF NEED BE, (To avoid boom strikes). Low headspeed applications will be better suited for the "nondirect control" head assembly that will be avaliable at a later date.)

Nearly everyone with the 700 is running the one thick and 2 thin shims per side, as advised by SAB, KEEP THE BLADES GOOD AND TIGHT IN THE GRIPS

All later shipments of Goblins (after 1st batch) already have shims installed - BUT you may have to add additional shims!

DFC Head (Direct Flight Control) CONTROL ARMS
These items MUST have the "all- thread post" threaded in tightly with locktight. The plastic ball links MUST be threaded onto the "all thread post" untill they are blocked into the aluminum piece. (half of the "A" of the SAB labeling on the ball link will be hidden from sight when assembled into the barrel of the aluminum piece.

HEAVY DUTY BLADE GRIP LINKS (SAB ANNOUNCEMENT 11/12)
SAB Heli Division has improved parts avaliable free of charge. We making avaliable a new heavy duty blade grip link, made of steel for the 700.
(previously part #H0081) to replace the aluminum grip link.
(Applies to all kits sold - up to Sept.15 /12) Contact your retailer for details.


THRUST BEARINGS

Some are reporting that the Thrust bearing is bone dry, others reported bearing installed backwards.
Note: You must disassemble factory head to make sure everything is greased and loctite is applied properly.

SAB is recommending: Tri-Flow clear synthetic (PTFE, Teflon) grease for thrust bearing/bearings . You should be able to get this at any bicycle shop.


MAINSHAFT

Vertical play in the mainshaft occuring due to factory hole being larger than retaining bolt that attaches collet to shaft.

This was "by design" to allow collet to be position to "take up" any axial/vertical slack in mainshaft, but the problem is that it also allows the collet to work its way down the shaft over time.

One solution mentioned...
Use align .5mm trex 700 main shaft washer in between collet and bearing, this will permanently fix it so that you need not relying on a friction fit of collet to hold the assembly in place. (I also did this and it worked great!)

http://www.helipross.com/align-t-rex-700-main-shaft-spacer-hn7075.html


DRIVE PULLEY WARNING (ALL 3 pulleys possibly)

SAB Goblin 700 Service Advisory #2 - (20th March 2012)
..."Despite extensive testing, it has come to our attention that one or two main drive pulleys (H0016) have had the pulley flange loosen from the pulley during flight.

UPDATE: - SAB Repalacement Parts now avaliable!

Defective Tail drive Pulley REPLACEMENT FROM S.A.B.

37 Tooth [H0101-S]


36T (light weight version with larger inside flange)


NOTE: Replacement tail drive pulleys H0101-S has an extra tooth from origional. Was 36, now 37, for added tail authority.

But replacement tail drive pulley H0016 retains the origional 36 tooth count.

NOTE: NEW PULLEYS AVALIABLE

26 AND 27 tooth REINFORCED tail pulleys (pulley located in the very back)


Resource for pulleys - avaliable at Heli Direct!

http://helidirect.com/sab-new-heavy-duty-tail-pulley-26t-goblin-700-h0102-s-p-26612.hdx

CAUTION: Check that locktight is propery applied to all Pully Flange Bolts. Be careful not to over torque the small bolts. Flange bolts have been reported to fail during assembly, during flight and even one or two persons have mentionend that their flange bolts arrived in the kit broken! - ??? (Issue is ongoing as of 7-2012)

Post - "Use a screwdriver style "Driver" and 2 fingers to tighten flange bolts, stop when the bolts are snug letting the green locktight do its job. People sometimes apply way to much force when securing small screws."

Sidenote: If you are flying at low rpm (less than about 2000/2100 rpm) it is always recommended to use the tail pulley with 26 teeth.


PULLEY SHAFT (Z60)

Z60 pulley shaft must have a little up & down play in the range of 0.2-0.8 mm, Confirmed by SAB Tech Dept.

SECONDARY SHAFT BOLT FAILURE

"Advisory notice to all, the "pinion to shaft" bolt on the secondary shaft.
(The upper one above the slanted pinion Z20) failed in flight on my Goblin.

Drive Shaft Bolts - WARNING!
There have been reports of bolt failures of those being used to secure pinions, gears and pulleys.

Best Practice:
Replace ALL shaft bolts with appropriately sized "shouldered" bolts.

SAB announcement - (on their website 4-10-12)
..." We will replace all the bolts and send to distributors in about a week.
New kits will have new shouldered bolts. All of our bolts are DIN 12.9,
highest quality bolts and screws.

Alternative resource for shouldered bolts if your cannot wait for SAB

http://www.alignrcusa.com/index.php?...oducts_id=2385


ONE -WAY BEARING

Posted - "Brass surrounding one way seized on intermediate shaft.
Took it apart and sanded/cleaned and oiled, all good now.
Another post - "One way" was dry as a sun baked bone, needed grease."

Best Practice: The One Way Bearing should be greased during build!

UPDATE: Upgraded Tripple Bearing 60T Pulley with "One Way" bearing avaliable for Goblin 700 for better auto rotations. (7-10-12)

http://helidirect.com/sab-new-upgrade-tripple-bearing-60t-pulley-goblin-630700h0104-s-p-27404.hdx



TENSIONING SPRING - (tail drive and main drive)

Tail belt tensioning spring is not symmetrical, the length of the bends on the end are different. The short end goes up and the other end goes down, (the shorter side on the support, the longer on the arm.) SAB has updated later manuals.

NOTE: The spring may be secured even better with a dab of epoxy in mounting hole.

Drive Belt Tensioning Springs - Also could use a tiny dab of epoxy to glue the Drive Belt tensioning springs into the motor mount, - it just makes mounting the motor unit that much easier.


DRIVE BELT LIFE?

Depends on the type of flight ...average is over 100 flights
Belt care - (main and tail)... Food Grade Silicon Spray works well to lubricate belts.

Post: We have found that the main belt needs to be re-adjusted after the first few flights and even again after 5-10 more. Otherwise it will become loose and eat the teeth right off of the belt.

The motor pulley may have to be repositioned (up or down a few mm). Double check belt alignment by spinning the head and observing the pulley/belt seating.


BATTERIES

Consider using Velcro to help hold batteries in tray – (back of tray is open)

One lockstrap with velcro tape (to buffer sharp frame edges) per battery in place of or in conjunction with O-rings this may help save batteries from suffering cuts from upper edges of frame. (As has been reported by 3-D pilots)

Helico-pteron pic

Battery Tray can be installed in one of two positions to allow for slightly larger batteries if necessary. (keeping in mind to cut the motor shaft as stated above.)

Here is a VERY nice and simple battery tray mod. to consider...

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KRdzb47FVg&feature=player_embedded[/ame]


CANOPY TIPS

May have to ream out mounting holes to make them line up correctly

Use the foam pieces pushed out from the blade holder to make the canopy fit without sliding to one side. Measure and cut two pieces off with the rounded sides glued to the canopy.

Duct tape inside of canopy over mounting holes to strengthen
canopy from cracking when flexing during removal and mounting

Update: SAB canopy grommet now avaliable - ( # HA111)



I Had to ream out the canopie holes just a bit. With the new gromets mounted on the canopy they slipped over the face of the mounting studs and push into position with a little finger pressure.
One detail - you need to ream the holes in the canopy large enough to allow the gromets to expand just a little bit for when you push them into position over the top portion of the mounting studs.



Canopy placement and removal tip

Always put the swash all the way down. Grip links facing front and back. Very easy to slide on the canopy that way - otherwise it can be a real fight!

Canopy binding issue - CAUTION!
If unaddressed the canopy will crack!!

When installing the canopy check that the "front bottom" of the canopy is not being "flexed" or deformed as you bring the "back of the canopy" into position to bolt onto the mounting studs. You may find that the landing skids "canopy support area" is binding and causing the canopy to un-naturally flex and deform under undue pressure. If not corrected this will cause the canopy to crack or altogather break during flight stresses. - The solution is to file down the support area of the landing legs only enough to remove the binding pressure off the canopy. The landing legs must continue to securely hold the front of the canopy in place.




FLYBAR SENSOR POSITION

A FBL sensor does not need to be centred on the heli, it just needs to be square to the mainshaft and centerline of the heli. it is important that leads has some flex in it so as to not transfer any vibrations into the sensor. Reinforce sensor leads with tape or shrink tube where it passes through the frame.


SWASH-PLATE QUALITY

Swash has a little vertical float to the centern ball. Turns out that
“I2 Swashes” are built with the same loose ball and are very good
swashes - should not be an issue.


TAILBOOM WARNING WARNING!

Check clearance between the blade at "0 pitch" and top of boom.
Min. distance is 145 mm, if less, - add "TAPE" under nylon bolts.

FAILURE to rectify this issue may allow for a boom strike!!
Please review the video linked below for specifics on addressing this isssue.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=395680

(Review "Head Assembly" information listed earlier for related issues surrounding boom strikes)

"Shoe Goo" the servo lead (servo inside the boom) down and tape lead to servo, (glue gun application are already being reported to not stick long term to the inside of the boom)

NYLON BOLT WARNING!

Don't over tighten your nylon tail mounting bolts or they will snap!
Post - "I snapped one off with the supplied wrench! Just get it snug,
the carbon plate on top will hold it in place,"

Home Depot - sells nylon bolts that fit perfectly in case SAB nylon bolts snap.


BOOM SPACER - Failure

May want to consider not using CA but rather use epoxy
Post - "I epoxied that sucker to the side of the boom. CA is worthless on metal, it will come loose"

Overtighen - And you will stress crack boom from the inside out when securing it to the frame.
Undertighen - And you will crack the boom where it mounts to the frame - when you tighten it to the frame.


BOOM QUALITY

Some early booms had issues and quality was very poor.
Newer Booms are now "flawless"

(Remember to still check boom/blades clearance)


BALL LINK ISSUES

Blank side of the ball link is pressed onto the ball- SAB stamp faces out.


SERVO INSALLATION AND RELATED ISSUES

Servos for swash must be installed using spacers provided (For Mikado and
Outrage servos use rubber and carbon fiber spacers.) This will require longer screws. (see below))

Longer metal bolts are needed for Outrage Torq servo mounting - Replace the M2.5x8 screws with M2.5x10 screws.

Servo extension needed for tail servo as a "safety break away".

Glue gun (better yet Shoe Goo) is needed to glue servo cable to inner boom and to secure electrical componant connectors into the" V-bar" recepticles (if using v-bar fbl system)

Servo arms with "Torqs servos" need to be replaced with mikado or Futabas - both work perfectly on my Torque 9180s.


TAIL SETUP ISSUES

Post- "I asked Bert K. (SAB Rep) if I should max out the throw on the tail on the G700, and if there would be any issues doing so, he replied to run it at maximum with no binding. I consider Bert an authority on this particular subject. :-)"

Post- "All of us guys on the Canadian team max out the tail blade pitch with the vbar...kyle and Nick helped out with the vbar settings on the tail. Basically they said you are better off to just let the tail stall alittle, as it won't be spending much time at that much pitch. It really improved the tail, so we all max it out now.

General consensus is to set servo at center, set servo horn at 90, tension belt properly, set pitch arm at 90 deg. to boom, properly lenghten and attach the pushrod and then complete the electronics setup in your flybarless controller.

There is a slight amount of radial play in the tail grips because of the thrust bearings.

Tail thrust bearing (factory assembled) -dry as a bone without grease.

BEST PRACTICE: Disassemble factory tail to make sure all is greased and that loctite is applied properly.

Flanged bearings - Check the flanged bearings (HC414-S) in your tail side plate / fin! They came loose in some machines and made a strange noise. A little bit of CA and everything was ok.

TAIL BOX - Make sure tailbox is tightened in place in such a way as to maintane a 90 deg. relatonship of the tail shaft to the center line of the boom.

TAIL CONTROL ROD

Use epoxy to glue the screw inserts to the tail rod which holds the ball links. Securing with epoxy rather than CA will give a stronger connection. Also, scuff surface of inner rod prior to epoxy application. (Some crashes have been reported due to this issue)

Keep in mind that the rod length may seem incorrect (to long) if the drive belt hasn't been tightened to its proper operational tension due to the variable position of the tail shaft assembly. (the entire tail shaft assembly will move back)

...Logo 600 CF tail control rod is longer than stock goblin rod and can be used to make a precision cut and fitted rod, (should be long enough to allow the servo to be turned 180 to allow servo cable to be positioned more accurately away from the tail belt as well)

Tailblade grip bolts (SAB announcement 11/2012)
SAB Heli Division has "new improved" tail blade grip bolts avaliable.
Contact your Goblin retailer or Sab directly for delivery details to receive free upgraded parts.


MAIN-GEAR (breaking-in)

Manual specs... (for the original alum. Drive Pinion)
"A lite lubricant such as WD-40 is recommended for break-in to allow gears to seat properly since there is no lash spacing on the goblin."

A more effective lubricant will only prolong the break-in period. (Normally 5- 10 flights)

WARNING: concerningn main-gear break-in. From experience: (as stated on the forum)

"I did not use WD-40 as recommended by SAB. Instead I used triflow synthetic grease --> big mistake. The grease + black gear powder (from initial wearing) + dirt gummed up and together this combination somehow has worn the gear so quickly that after 10 flights, I already have tons of backlash which is definitely NOT good.

Replaced the maingear with a new one and used WD-40 for BREAK-IN --> great success. After a few flights, WD-40 flew away and the gear backlash has been perfect!"


Premature Drive Pinion Failure:

Main Drive Pinion (Aluminum)

Multiple sources are reporting extensive wear appearing on the pinion gear as early as 40 to 50 flights! Various lubrication attempts are seemily not the answer with limited success being reported.

SAB SOLUTION... "Steel pinions will be available soon, look for them at distribution locations around 2nd week in July" (Bert K. 6/18/12)

http://helidirect.com/sab-new-upgrade-steel-pinion-m25-goblin-700-p-27383.hdx

New steel pinion gear

SAB NOTE: STEEL PINION GEAR "BREAK-IN" PROCEEDURE

"No break-in required with steel pinion, no grease or oil needed either" (Bert Kammerer 6/19/12)

SAB is now recommending the use silicon lubricant or tri-flow grease (every 30 to 40 flights) to minimize heat generation in the steel pinion and to prevent main-gear wear. (SAB 8/15/12)



GEAR RATIO ERROR IN MANUAL 1.3
( REVISION BELOW )

In the manual, the helical pinion (up top) is a 19 tooth gear, but in reality it is 20 tooth

Corrected ratios for calculating head speed

16 TOOTH PINION = 12.75
18 TOOTH PINION = 11.33
19 TOOTH PINION = 10.74
20 TOOTH PINION = 10.20
21 TOOTH PINION = 9.71
22 TOOTH PINION = 9.27
23 TOOTH PINION = 8.87
24 TOOTH PINION = 8.50
26 TOOTH PINION = 7.85


SAB ADDRESSES "NOTED CONCERNS" BY
CONSOLIDATING MULTIPLE MOD.'S INTO THE
CURRENT KIT.

The following picture serves as a great "quick reference" for all early kit recipiants who want an overview of every part that they should replace with avaliable upgrades.




COMPREHENSIVE "TIPS" VIDEO FOR BUILDING AND MAINTAINING THE GOBLIN FROM S.A.B.

Assembly and Maintenance Tips for the Goblin Helicopter (18 min 38 sec)

UPDATED GOBLIN MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS FROM S.A.B.
(Valuable For downloading or printing out)

http://www.goblin-helicopter.com/sho...pter_rev01.pdf


ESC INSTALLATION (heli jive 120)

NOTE: Sideplate on heli must come off - or stall build untill ESC is mounted if mounting Heli Jive with pre-installed heatsink.

Best practice for ESC mounting: Use the Base Plate as a heat sink!

Use heat-sink compound or heat-sink tape and heat rated tie-wraps and don't use Jive with pre-installed heat sink, Clean and simple.

Thermal tape resource:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/37..._148_0012.html


KONTRONIC ESC…

· Heli jive 120 + (+ means more output with cooling)

· Latest version is 11.0

· KSA mode not used with scorpion motor

· Mode 8 updated to work with V-bar external governor

· Disconnet red power lead (patch cable between esc and v-bar) if using a separate external BEC
Approved to work with V-bar

· Home page has a support and news tab – both are useful

· Newer programming disk – available if needed

· Bail out funct. used with throttle hold set at 40% with full resume for 15 sec.

Heli Jive notes regarding Scorp. 4525-520 ultimate
stick to mode 4 or 5
21 tooth pulley if you want headspeeds of 2200+
20 tooth pulley if you want headspeeds 2000-2200.
The H-jive works best with throttle between 65 and 70,
The H-Jive sweetspot is 65-70 it says so clearly in the manual
Decrease pulley to 20 tooth will bring your throttle up to around 58-72. Much less work for all the electronics and better results

SAB - say's to run first flights at 1700-1800 for breaking in gears.


MIKADO V-Bar

· full size 5.2– (blue) – more resistant to vibration than the black one

· Requires 2 spectrum satellite receivers

· Small emergency battery suggested (5 cell NiCd/NiHM 8v) charges off BEC

· Pro software upgrade (after purchase – later on)

· Western Robotics "HAS NOW" released a "Buffer Adapter" that will allow their super bec to work with
emergency battery pack to power Vbar and servos.

Mikado and Kontronics have partnered togather to allow programing
VBAR v5.2 and heli jive v11.0 setup to be very straight forward - yea!


Wiring diagram (general schemes)



Landing Skids Modifications:

Rubber trim application:

Skid project details at the the following thread.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=400609


Build thread short-cut

Thunder fighter did such a great job, I didn't want all his valuable work to get lost in the archives of post dated threads. - Check out his build procedure below...

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=391487

Build Video short-cut

Here is the best time lapse build vid. out there - in my opinion.

SAB Goblin 700 - EVIL Helicopter ☺ (7 min 48 sec)

Wiz

[Ranger89]

Does anyone reccomend specific settings for my CC 160HV with the Scorpion 4035-560 such as the PWM or the timing? I have never had to tinker with these settings and would like some suggestions.

Best,

[Helico-pteron]

OK, so here are some pics of how this all works.

Use these holes to set where the packs will sit for CG with canopy on. This may take a few tries. You can use them as a marker for the other sets unless you have all different packs. I won't bother telling you where mine line up, each persons CG will be different.


After finding the CG, apply some double sided tape to hold the pack in place. This helps keep the pack from moving around when heat shrinking them.


Press the packs onto the plates using the holes as a reference from when you checked your CG. Slide on the heat shrink any way you prefer and apply heat. I suggest low heat with the included heat shrink. Using high heat will cause the heat shrink to split.

Side note: The first batch had black heat shrink and the second batch has clear.



Apply heat to the shrink wrap until tight, then cut small holes where the pins protrude. Make small holes, they will enlarge once you apply heat and flatten out.



As was said before, anything bigger than 55mm won't work with these trays. I have a set of 5300 GensAce that are 60mm. What I did was apply some no-slip tape starting at the front of the stock tray to about 2" short of the sliding tray clip. This allows me to use the quick release trays for my 4400s and then I use the no-slip tape with my 5300s. The trays slide in with little effort, even with the no-slip tape. It also keeps the trays from moving in flight.


Finished product! For just about $45 I have two quick change packs without breaking a sweat and I don't have to worry about packs moving in flight. This took me a grueling 15 minutes to do.


Edited pack size restrictions.

[Mr.Gobler]

thanks Helico-pteron


where did you get the battery shrink ? did you buy a fee trays ( i assume you did )

[Helico-pteron]

Originally Posted by itsparks

thanks Helico-pteron


where did you get the battery shrink ? did you buy a fee trays ( i assume you did )

Shrink is included with the trays and if you meant "few", yes I got a couple sets. You can buy the start up kit and then just the trays at HD. It's cheaper than buying the trays and clip separately.

http://helidirect.com/quick-release-...70-p-28855.hdx

http://helidirect.com/sab-battery-tr...-s-p-28691.hdx

[OopsIcrashedagain]

That is awesome I just got my goblin in he mail today so looking forward to following some threads and doing this also. Since I'm new to this (and I feel like a dip shxxt I was following this thread the the goblin build female style (where did that one go is it not a sticky) I like the pics a lot more in that one. If any one could assist by all means fellows help a dude out

[Mr.Gobler]

Originally Posted by OopsIcrashedagain

That is awesome I just got my goblin in he mail today so looking forward to following some threads and doing this also. Since I'm new to this (and I feel like a dip shxxt I was following this thread the the goblin build female style (where did that one go is it not a sticky) I like the pics a lot more in that one. If any one could assist by all means fellows help a dude out

Turned into a shit fest .. So was deleted..

[OopsIcrashedagain]

How did that happen who deleted it that sucks it was a good thread specially for someone new like my dumb rear. Well that sucks!

[The Dentman]

It got way off track from a build thread.there's some great info on here about builds. Lots of traffic also so start your own and a lot of guys will probably chime in and help. Myself included.

New England Heli Crew

[Thunder Fighter]

Have a read of my build thread that is linked down the bottom of windwizards great thread we are posting in.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=391487

//Dennis.