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07-14-2015, 06:29 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
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overspeed with protos
it is possible? how? ive tried but i couldn't!!
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07-14-2015, 09:56 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Do you know how to overspeed other helis?
It's possible. But a bit harder with a light airframe. A heavy heli has lots of momentum to push through the air and really drive the disk pretty fast. A light heli, it's more of an exercise in finding JUST the right amount of pitch. Too little and the disk will just act as a parachute and slow the heli down without overspeeding the blades. Too much pitch and you won't have enough drag to drive the disk any faster than flight rpm |
07-14-2015, 11:59 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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I can overspeed my Mini Protos relatively easily, even with a solid Lynx pinion (no OWB). It's all in the timing and collective management.
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Chris Boultinghouse |
07-15-2015, 01:42 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
They told me that I need to be very high with the heli and than I need to use all the negative pitch for a while : when it take a lot of speed I have to put some positive pitch to reach almost 0 degrade. is that correct? |
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07-15-2015, 01:54 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Umm...from the sound of it, just no.
Flip inverted. Full negative punchout until the heli is a dot. Nose over so the nose is pointed straight down, go to zero pitch. Let the heli fall FAST. As fast as it can. When you're as low as you are comfortable, level the disk(i usually nose over to level it inverted) and feed in a LITTLE collective. Similar to an auto rotation. So maybe 3-5 degrees. The disk should catch tons of air, slow the heli, and overspeed like crazy if you do it right |
07-15-2015, 02:24 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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07-15-2015, 05:31 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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It's very similar to shooting high speed autos as well.
Just like the others have said. It can be either right side up or inverted. Set up as if you were going to do an auto nanda nose it down with a little bit of down collective pitch. The more you can stomach pointing the nose down and holding that slight down pitch the faster it's gonna fall. If you can hold it on a knife edge nose down starting as high as possible and maintain the angle till your ready to overspeed then pull back on the nose to level and at same time only go to zero pitch on your blades and listen to it zing The mini Protos also autos very well too, especially if its stretched
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Mike Martin, MSH BRAIN USA Team Manager MSH USA FLIGHT TEAM, CYCLONE BLADES, XNOVA MOTORS, JETI USA www.MSHUSA.com, www.MSheli.com |
02-27-2016, 07:41 AM | #8 (permalink) | ||
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Digging out this old thread, I always meant to do some demo before but never got my act to do it. Now with the new YEP ESC that supports "gov-off-x3", overspeed is much more pleasant to perform. Yes, even with my solid pinion without OWB.
In general you don't have to be super high. All you need is lots of kinetic energy stored in super high airspeed (can be during FFF) to spin up the rotor when you reduce the high collective pitch to much lower collective pitch but NEVER cross over zero pitch point. Once you cross over from positive pitch to negative pitch or from negative pitch to positive pitch you're slowing down rotor with airspeed. Check out the most pronounced overspeed at 02:09 done from FFF.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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02-27-2016, 07:49 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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Actually I lied. You can cross over from positive pitch to negative. I did just that at 02:09 in the video. The reason why in that case it's OK to cross over zero pitch is that the heli changed attitude from cutting into the wind using top of the rotor to using bottom of the rotor. It sounds trickier but it's actually easier to do IMO.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
03-17-2016, 02:09 PM | #10 (permalink) | ||
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Of course you can do great overspeeds!
Check out this from 2:05 !
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XL Power 520 - XL4020-motor, DS512HV + DS825 servos, Spirit Pro FBL XL Power and Spirit FBL field rep. |
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03-18-2016, 03:33 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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This is Protos 500 forum not Protos Max. Of course any 700-size heli can overspeed (and autorotate) with ease with so much more energy stored in the rotor and weight of the heli. My Protos 500 without OWB freespins not nearly as long as my Blade 300X with OWB mod. See how quick it slows down at the end of my video. It's ironic that I modded my protos 500 to run no OWB while I modded my 300X to add OWB.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC Last edited by DoubleCH; 03-22-2016 at 12:03 AM.. |
03-18-2016, 01:31 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Location: NorCal
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I've spent a lot of time flying small heli's in the 300mm range, and as long as they have a OWB, they overspeed like CRAZY. It's not a size thing.
You need a lot of speed (a soft 3D setup won't get the speed you need), into a hard flare. Have no idea what RPMs I've hit, but it scares me. :-) |
03-18-2016, 02:57 PM | #13 (permalink) | ||
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I have to respectfully disagree. Size matters (in particular weight). You just can't auto a 300-size as easy as a 700-size. I'm not saying impossible but the key is "not as easy". This include 600W+ 4S 4000rpm HS 300-size heli with OWB mod.
I didn't show overspeed this flight or my other vids because this small size without help of ESC settings won't do mssive overspeed. This brings to ESC settings which help overspeed a lot. It's easier if you run straight throttle mode no governor, or even better with V-shaped throttle curve. With governor setup, if the governor gains are not responsive/aggresive enough it won't reduce throttle quick enough and that helps overspeed and give a false sense size doesn't matter. Try do an massive overspeed auto by shutting off motor before you do the massive overspeed with your 300-size heli. It won't be as easy as a 700-size.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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03-20-2016, 09:15 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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I've seen Oxy's do overspeeds that make you wonder if the tail is going to blow up. One of the guys around here LOVES doing overspeeds and his primary heli is a Gaui X3. He can overspeed that thing pretty well too.
It's easier on a bigger heli, but perfectly doable even with small helis |
03-21-2016, 10:13 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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I don't get why people do over speeds. To each their own.
There is a guy at my field that does it with his nitro. Lol |
03-21-2016, 11:52 PM | #16 (permalink) | ||
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Overspeed is doable with small heli but not as easy or prominent as with a bigger heli. When I say "easy" I mean like when you auto-rotate a small heli, it's doable but not as prominent and won't hold the overspeed for long.
Here's an example with my 300X (250mm blades).
Regarding why... Same answer as most 3D moves... why not? At first I didn't like the extra stress put on the rotor head (i.e. the higher the headspeed the higher the centrifugal force the rotor parts have to assert). My Align 450DFC for example is prone to exploding rotor head on high HS even with the updated beefier feathering shaft. But of course, the other side of me wants to crank things up until it explodes than dial it back down one notch.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC Last edited by DoubleCH; 03-22-2016 at 02:28 AM.. |
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03-22-2016, 10:53 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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To each their own, but to me it's a manuever that doesn't take much skill but stresses your heli into borderline dangerous territory.
Other 3d moves are more techincal in nature if you ask me. But like you said, "why not?" |
03-22-2016, 11:36 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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I agree in some sense. I was reluctant to do it in the beginning but I blame it on watching too many OnTheSnap videos.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
04-26-2016, 01:58 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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This is my 2nd set of short-lived main grip thrust bearings. They used to last a long long time. The 1st short-lived set I thought was because it was an off-brand set. This set is MSH. The short lives seem too coincidental with when I started doing overspeeds.
OK no more overspeed for me from now on.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
04-26-2016, 08:59 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Can definitely see the ball indents on the right one
Overspeeds tend to wear a lot of parts. Thrusts in the head and tail, spindle bolts, main and tail blade bolts etc. Keep an eye on your blade bolts for any bending Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk |
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