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02-03-2014, 12:06 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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OS 55 HZ-R Issue
Hi
I'm having a problem with both my OS 55 HZ-R engines.Sometimes when i try to start the engine It starts spitting fuel out of the carb.It is rare but after 6 or 7 flights it does this and is constantly throwing fuel out of the carb.I have checked the seals and everything but the fuel is coming out from inside where the carb butterfly is. The outer fuel lines look okay and the inner one as well.This is happening with both of my engines.The engine is running at a good temperature so it is also not rich.The idle mixture is also at its factory setting.The check valve is also fitted the correct way.A few days back i disassembled the motor and checked all the screws.I always pinch the fuel line after my last flight so that there is no fuel in the regulator. The engine also doesn't start when the fuel is leaking from the carb and it start throwing more fuel when i am trying to start the engine. Would be very grateful if anyone can help |
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02-03-2014, 12:17 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2009
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Re: OS 55 HZ-R Issue
Check your regulator.. i shouldn't let any fuel through when the engine is not running. Regulator could be stuck open due to some contaninations.
Do you filter fuel before it gets into the tank? And make sure to check the onboard filter regularly.
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02-03-2014, 12:19 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
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OS 55 HZ-R Issue
I have a few 55 HzRs and i prime them for a few seconds at low throttle and then turned on my switch glow for a few seconds and then started the engine trouble free
When i did not do this after turning over the engine and it not starting it would push fuel out of the carb |
02-03-2014, 12:53 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
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There is only 1 fuel filter which is installed on the main fuel line.I dont know how to open the regulator as i read some where not to open the regulator.
@ van man. i will try this way aswell lets see what others have to say Thanks |
02-03-2014, 01:05 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
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Open the regulator and clean it out. It is pretty simple. I had exactly the same problem last weekend. The smallest piece of trash can hold the regulator open.
I was haunted by the same "do not take regulator apart" message, but there is nothing to it. Just make sure you have a clean work environment. |
02-03-2014, 01:05 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Regulator is sticking open. Disassemble and clean it out thoroughly, pay attention to diaphragm orientation.
You need to remove the main needle to access the regulator, than remove the 5 bolts from the regulator with a 1.5mm wrench. |
02-03-2014, 02:20 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2009
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Re: OS 55 HZ-R Issue
I opened mine up to see if it was clean and for inspection caus the engine was new, ran once and was set aside for a year.
Just make sure to work clean and carefully with working on the regulator then all will be fine.
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KDS Chase 360 | Align Trex 600NSP | Align Trex 700E | Align Trex 700X |
02-03-2014, 04:01 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
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thanks for the help guys.Will do that
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04-01-2014, 03:49 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Just wondering if cleaning out the regulator solved your problem ? Because mine is doing the exact same thing. Thanks
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Trex 600 N DFC, Trex 600 Nitro Pro converted to DFC, Trex 700N DFC & 3 IKON FBL UNITS |
04-01-2014, 05:08 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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To add to what I said above, It's important to clean your whole fuel system in addition to carburetor.
If debris is entering and sticking the valve open, then it's a good idea to clean out your fuel filter/replace it, and change fuel magnets if you're using one. Fuel can also gum up some of the components in the regulator causing this situation as well if the fuel sits for awhile. This is likely why the OS manual states you should not leave fuel inside the regulator after you're done for the day. Truthfully, I'm guilty of not following this; but my engines rarely sit for more than a few days at the most between runs, so I have not really had issues with it. |
04-05-2014, 06:40 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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OS 55 HZ-R Issue
+1, don't be afraid to open the reg. Easy to clean and dis-re-assemble.
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04-05-2014, 07:05 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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I'm definitely gonna give it a try. What did you guys use to clean it out with, just some alcohol ? And did having to take it apart make you look for a better fuel filter ? Right now I'm just using the stock filter that came with the kit.
Thanks
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Trex 600 N DFC, Trex 600 Nitro Pro converted to DFC, Trex 700N DFC & 3 IKON FBL UNITS |
04-05-2014, 07:11 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2013
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OS 55 HZ-R Issue
Alcohol indeed. No visible debris but cleaning it up fixed things for me. Was stuck closed...
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04-09-2014, 10:50 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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+1 the reg on the OS. While it looks fancy being CNC, is really the same diaphragm setup you'd see in a walbro. It wouldn't be held together with hex bolts if it wasn't meant to be taken apart at some point
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"You need more rockets. Everything is better with rockets" Mike Dipalo--Synergy RC, MKS Electronics |
04-11-2014, 06:12 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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What a difference !!! After disassembly, a alcohol bath & drying the parts with low pressure dry air, my 55Hz runs like new again. My biggest problem was leaving fuel in the regulator for days & weeks at a time. But now that I know how easy it is to clean the regulator out it won't be an issue next time thanks for the help guys
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Trex 600 N DFC, Trex 600 Nitro Pro converted to DFC, Trex 700N DFC & 3 IKON FBL UNITS |
05-27-2014, 06:03 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pickens, SC
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I ran out of fuel inverted a few months ago (not really ran out, but flew fast foward too long and the rest is history), and just got around to a rebuild after a hard auto which broke the skids. I switched to Futaba during the interim, so switching everything over took me awhile.
Anyhow, I have no power now. When I first started, my formerly perfect tune (tuned by a former team synergy pilot) wanted to hick up like it was rich trying to summon the umph to turn the blades. Also, on the first start, she stalled out before I even gave her throttle. Then when I did get her in the air, it feels like she has zero power, and my wife says it sounds like metal, but I am deaf from being in the Marine infantry when I was younger. When I go to do flips, it feels like I am flying at super low HS, and I am flying at 2160. Do you think I should clean the regulator? I didn't think anything would be gummed up since theoretically, it ran dry when I last ran it. Maybe there was enough residue to cause the problem. Thanks for your time. |
05-27-2014, 06:34 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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If the regulator is sticking, you almost always wind up with fuel either dripping or pouring out of the carburetor.
It will be difficult to start, and hydrolock frequently. When you do get it started and running, it will run very rich and power will be down. You will notice a TON of smoke. Typically, when you land to adjust your needles, it will load up and quit. This is when you will notice fuel coming out of the carburetor. If your friend tuned your engine months ago, odds are the weather now is much warmer than when he tuned it. This will richen the mixture if you didn't touch your needles, and you will need to retune. Hope this helps. |
05-28-2014, 06:04 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pickens, SC
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OK,
I had a hard auto yesterday due to engine powering down inverted with 3/4 tank. Just stalled out. Anyhow, I took the engine apart and got the bearings out. The rear one had rust on the race. Saw a guy named Bob on here recommended the stainless replacements from rcbearings.com so I ordered some. I'm going to take the carb apart tonight and clean it- any tips? Also I want to clean the entire engine up before reassembly, so tips there are always appreciated as well. What dissolves RTV? Thanks. -Seth |
05-29-2014, 11:20 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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The stuff to dissolve RTV is rather nasty (RTV by nature is designed to be non reactive to solvents and newer compounds are also alcohol resistant). Usually I just get out a razor blade and scrape the stuff off or use a dremel with brush wheel.
The carbs I usually flush out with acetone after removing all gaskets and o rings. Blow the carb out with air, then liberally apply o ring safe machine oil (after run works well here) for reassembly of the carb and engine. While you have the engine apart, check the e clips in the top of the piston wrist. They should be vertically oriented, otherwise you risk losing the prong piece of the clip from excessive g loading over time. The stainless, phenolic cage bearings from RCB are good. Make sure that you have the cage facing out into the engine to catch bearing bits if something fails. Likewise, note that engines have a chamferred side to the bottom of the con rod. This side mates with the crank shaft. Depending on how long the engine has run, fuel, and after run oils used, there could be some large amounts of varnish up around the wrist pin. The easiest way to soften this for wrist pin removal is with heat or petroleum based solvents. Be careful with the e clips as well. You want some strong, but thin needle nose for dealing with those. They have a tendency to zip off to some unknown corner of your shop if handled improperly, so beware It doesn't hurt to replace them while you're in there if the engine has some use to it.
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"You need more rockets. Everything is better with rockets" Mike Dipalo--Synergy RC, MKS Electronics |
05-31-2014, 07:42 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pickens, SC
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Thanks Commodore8888.
I actually had a futaba temp sensor mounted to my head with RTV per Futaba's mounting suggestions I found somewhere on the internet. I wanted to get the RTV off before I soaked the head in solvent, but I suppose I'll just scrape what I can and then do the dip. I ended up ordering those RC Bearings- the stainless ones. I'll have to take the carb apart soon and do a thorough cleaning. Thanks again for your help. |
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