v2 tail, throw.

[devilfish]

On the V1 tail you could not use max throw, as the tail could stall.
Is it the same way with the v2 tail?
Or should I use all available throw on it?
Whats your experince?

Thanks

[heathy]

Anders,

I set mine about 5mm from each end, working well here

[devilfish]

Thanks m8

[GimpyGolden]

I'm about 3mm from each hard stop.

[Rob43]

At full throw, I had a stall in wind. I reported my problem in the Vbar forum, and Mr Mel suggested I check for too much travel. It looked like too much when I examined it. So, I reduced it to minimum slider values on the Vbar tail menu. I've not had it happen since then. I was also able to tune the tail much better after that, and was also able to get larger tail blades to function smoothly on pitch pumps and holding much better in harder moves. I also found the "Pitch Pump" feature to cause more problems that it's worth (at least with my tuning skills). Reducing it significantly reduced tail kicks and eliminated bogging. My motor produced much more useful power by not wasting it on too much pitch.

[devilfish]

What did you end up with Rob43?
3-5 mm from stop on the throws?

[Rob43]

Tell you what. I will measure it when I'm in the shop tonight, and report back to you on that.

[heathy]

I've just finished my second 7hv and noticed that to get the recommended 100% both sides on the tail with SK and with the new tail the sliders short by about 1mm. That's shit loads of pitch! I'm going to go with it for maiden tomorrow as I've reduced my control rates anyway.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[Lighty]

Why not change the ball distance on the tail horn and then run the right resolution in the GUI?

[Rob43]

Originally Posted by devilfish

What did you end up with Rob43?
3-5 mm from stop on the throws?

It appears to be about 2.5mm each side. Could almost stand to move the ball one hole closer to the servo shaft, and increase the Vbar setting a bit. I'd get really close to 90 degrees of total servo travel which I've been told is about ideal for most gyros.

[TdB]

Originally Posted by heathy

I've just finished my second 7hv and noticed that to get the recommended 100% both sides on the tail with SK and with the new tail the sliders short by about 1mm. That's shit loads of pitch! I'm going to go with it for maiden tomorrow as I've reduced my control rates anyway.

By control rates do you mean Yaw rate or Rudder D/R.
V-bar will use as much tail pitch as needed, so in case of low headspeed, lots of collective, or some external influence as wind, the tail slider might go all the way to the end of travel and stall the blades.
A shorter servo arm will get you more resolution and a little less throw, which still might be enough to not stall the blades.

Just my 2 cents.

Tim

[heathy]

Tim. Yaw rate as in control rate with a max of 820 degrees / second. I'm using 460.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[sk8n]

Apologies if am using this thread on a very related but separate subject: Tail v2 assembly.

After having found the pdf that describes v2 tail assembly, have got a few issues I would appreciate your feedback

(1) A set of washers (very thin) are included in the upgrade package that are supposed to be installed on the new tail shaft, at both inner sides, just by the inner part of the new shaft bearings. Problem is they do not appear in the parts diagram (attached below), but it would certainly make sense to be installed as similar smaller washers exist in v1 tail which I saw when I removed the old shaft.

(2) I have been informed by nankin people that there might be an error in the diagram with regards to the tail blade links that connect the pitch slider to the tail blade holders, and I probably have to reverse something to ensure leading edge goes first. Could you please let me know if you can see an issue in the set up as I depict in the attached photos? (just followed the diagram and cannot see anything wrong)

(3) Tail guide wheel: Do I push it up as much as possible beforeI tighten the cap head bolts to ensure min pressure on the belt going between this and the tail pulley? Or, push it down and then tighten the cap head bolts (am afraid that this would strain a lot the belt and create a lot of heat)

(4) How do I lubricate the shaft? Silicone clear grease or just some silicone oil?

(5) How do I ensure that the tail blade links move as freely as possible on the grooved pins that connect them on the tail pitch slider; would expect some small bearing to enable better move, but have never worked with such grooved pins, so do I oil them to run freely? They look rather tight when I try to move them by hand, and am sure that the tail servo will not like resistance especially past the mid point in either direction of the pitch slider. I consider those as the primary reason of resistance.

Thx for patience to read so mamny detailed questions.

[heathy]

The black coloured arms that are attached by pins need to be reversed! Take the pin out flip and re assemble. ( might be worth rubbing the flat insides with some fine sand paper to ensure a nice fit ). The balls will then line up with the arms for leading edge control. Myself and many others have taken the ball off and put some washers underneath to get better alignment! About 1mm.

The links will need reaming on both grips and the slider. Of my 2 v2 tails one needed reaming beyond belief to get it butter smooth.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[sk8n]

What do you mean by leading edge control? How do I identify this?

Also it seems like if I flip each link the distance between the plastic link hole and the link ball on the blade grip will be even greater, unless I also attach it to the other blade holder link ball.
Finally: how do I ream the link at the slider side? Do you mean just the internal part that you suggested before? What about the blade grip side of the link? Do I use the compass ball link sizing tool?

Apologies for asking so many questions, but looks like this is a small project by itself to make the links work smoothly.

I have the suspicion that the grooved rods themselves create the friction and I do not see a way to make them work smoothly.

[heathy]

O.k. If you look at your tail you will see the grips and the balls that stick out. Now you will also notice they came so that when it spins counter clockwise the balls trail behind! Trailing edge control.
By flipping them they become leading edge the same as the main rotors!!

To do this the black coloured links with the hole the ball lives in on one end and the pin in the other will need to be turned round. Pop the pin out turn the link over. You may find while the pin is out and you offer the link back onto the slider it's a little stiff, this is where we've been sanding a tiny bit off the insides of the flat area where the pin slides through. That's it!!

As for reaming, yes use the compass tool ream and check. I have a old tail grip with ball attached that I use to check links with to save having to keep popping links on and off with. Be careful not to over do it.

Heathy's tip of the day. When your checking your grip/ links for binding give the grips a little tug outwards so they move to their flight position, there is a tiny bit of play on the hub and you need to align them for best results.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[GimpyGolden]

Should look like in this post by Sebastian
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...6&postcount=14

[sk8n]

Guys, thx a lot! Both written explanation and Sebastien's diagram were perfect.

Just to complete the picture of my rest of the questions:

- I assume I should use the thin spacers on the tail shaft from the inside of the 2 main bearings; as I said, there exist in v1, a set is provided in v2 but diagram does not show them either in v1 or v2

- Tail guide wheel: Do I push it up as much as possible beforeI tighten the cap head bolts to ensure min pressure on the belt going between this and the tail pulley? Or, push it down and then tighten the cap head bolts (am afraid that this would strain a lot the belt and create a lot of heat)

- Tail shaft lubrication: Triflow clear silicone grease or silicone oil? Have found in my Trex600 that grease makes the slider slow

- Tail grips and tail spindle (if I can call it like this) assembly: do I disassemble and pack again with grease or just use locktite and tighten the bolts inside the tail holders?

Thx a lot,
Spiros

[heathy]

Thin spacers go up against the flange bearings

Guide wheel needs to be about 1/2mm off the belt.

Lube, tri flow if needed and keep a eye on crap sticking to it. Don't use grease for this reason.

Grip assembly. Yes take out thrust bearings and check the large ID race is on the inside and large on out. Take note of how it comes out and put some grease ( silicone ) onto the cupped bearings.



Sent from my iPhone 4s using tapatalk

[sk8n]

Thank you very much heathy.

I sanded the tail grips flat ends that attach to the slider as you suggested and now is very butter-like, perfectly smooth to the hand, no bind, no resistance.

Hole tail hub and tail blade holders: do I disassembe, grease and locktite or just locktite? I can see some thrust bearings in the v2 tail hub as well, so I would assume better be safe than sorry and unpack them, grease them and repack, assemble and locktite?

Thanks again sir.