6S Setups (Sticky)

[maczar]

Cost is small, i need blades amway, 325mm is 40$ and 350 is 45$, so 5$, tail boom and TT it's 12$, thus overall co is abt 20$

[SeanM]

My 325's cost only $18. Going to 350's will make the cost of each crash go up significantly. It may not be that much initially, but it will add up.

[Luvmyhelis]

Umm, not really if you shop around. When I ran 350s yeah they were expensive. And the supposedly better ones like my Radix brands felt numb. So I went over to HobbyKing and started flying thier composite material 360s. For $6 a set they showed up balanced right out of the bag most the time and never gave me any problems. I regularly spun them up to 3600rpm without a single issue. Plus they gave my heli its snap back for 3D work.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/%5F%5F16220%5F%5F360mm%5FCarbon%5FGlass%5FFiber%5F Composite%5FMain%5FBlade%5FWhite%5FRed%5F.html

[Steemo]

Depending on how u like to fly 3D/Flybar designed blades might feel better to you on your FBL heli.
Here's a great vid from Edge Rotor Blades explaining.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6xMwoFO0RU[/ame]

I personally am a big air flier and have tried lighter blades on my helis and not felt as comfortable in FFF and big air with them on as I do with heavier FBL blades weighted further out for stability. I do know many smack 3D guys who still prefer FBL blades. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.

[satgod]

on a fbl head you want heavier blades

[Luvmyhelis]

Originally Posted by Steemo

I personally am a big air flier and have tried lighter blades on my helis and not felt as comfortable in FFF and big air with them on as I do with heavier FBL blades weighted further out for stability. I do know many smack 3D guys who still prefer FBL blades. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.

So true, and each heli setup and fbl controller react differently also. Since I run Sk720s and my own DFC fbl heads I personally like a snappier heli as I can infinitely tune my heads any which way I want or need. Fbl heavier weighted blades with slower servos will certainly give a more stable feel. Heavier blades also helped with bogging when I ran 3s and the factory Scorp 6s-2010 at lower 3200hs..

For 3d work I liked a heli that could turn over on itself. Which is why I run my DFC pitch range at 16/16 and my headspeed at 3600 when doing it. Bloody insane supernatural flight charactoristics. It had the potential to bend feathering shafts doing some moves and also the undercut align mainshafts. I was also able to snap tailbooms at the junction. I didn't need more stability, as the stretch already gave that to me.

For a while I had more power than I knew what to do with when running the GoBrushless handwound scorp. I had over 20% more torque coming out of that 2010 than its factory counterpart. So it muscled through it better and the lighter blades were wickedly responsive. I rebuilt that and sent it out with a friends heli though when I started the move to 12s.

And you are right also satgod, with my factory 2221-2010 scorp it liked heavier blades as it bogged without them in hard reversals. That one always ran right on the edge of stripping gears. So the extra rotating mass helped it through some moves with that extra stored energy. I could pop full pitch reversals and strip an MH delrin main bald with light 360s on that one at will with the pitch setup at 12/12 at 3600. Especially running the Rhino pinions.

Now I have a physical issue eating me up and my reflexes have slowed significantly. So like steemo I am now leaning far more into the smooth precision big air style of flight. That is the reason I went to longer 420mm stretches to be frank.

Now in a way I have an ultralight overpowered 500 with half the flying mass. So it still does wicked 3D and does big air stuff soooo much better and more gracefully. And I can still hit those headspeeds I love flying with.

[raja_mastana]

Not sure if it has been posted before, but there is a 6S motor from HK
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00KV_930W.html

[andersn]

just orderd the tarot 6s 1860KV motor + 12/13T pinions... 6s here I come!

[klaus070]

Originally Posted by andersn

just orderd the tarot 6s 1860KV motor + 12/13T pinions... 6s here I come!

Hi andersn,
just a curiosity... let me know how many minutes of flight u will get with this motor and with which lipos and ESC... I have a 1860KV (not Tarot) bought in ebay and disappointed me a lot with only a 6mins. of duration... just curiosity... Thanks

Enviado desde mi LG-E510f usando Tapatalk 2

[SeanM]

Sounds right to me. There are many more factors to consider when you're trying to calculate what kind of flight time to expect. Your flying style, for example, will also effect how much flight time you can get. If I just putt around on my 6S Pro with the headspeed as low as it can go and a reduced pitch range, I might be able to get around 7 min worth of flying... Just guessing. With my current flying routine, I can only squeeze out about 4.5-5min flights.. But that's also with a headspeed of 3200+ and a lot of fast, big air maneuvers.

[andersn]

Originally Posted by klaus070

Hi andersn,
just a curiosity... let me know how many minutes of flight u will get with this motor and with which lipos and ESC... I have a 1860KV (not Tarot) bought in ebay and disappointed me a lot with only a 6mins. of duration... just curiosity... Thanks

Enviado desde mi LG-E510f usando Tapatalk 2

I will, if I get 6 min, I would be VERY pleased.

I bought 6s 1300mah 25-50c nano-techs to go with it.

I run a 2-6s 40(60A peak) hobbyking (mystery) esc.

sadly, the new tail comitted KAPOW in livingroom while testing... bit of a set back, orderd more parts, stuff should be up within <2 weeks.

[klaus070]

Yes SeanM you are right about these factors...in my case I'm still newbie and not at all an hard 3D flyer (still doing circuits lol..)
In my case I have in my TREX Sport (flybar) a YEP 45A ,a 1860KV motor (chinese one in which I have a LOT of doubts..) and a TURNIGY 6S 1300 mah 35C from HK.
I have made only one flight ...I'm still in the 5 break down charge process of this lipo...

But as I tell you I have doubts in the motor ...I was willing to have around 7-8 mins... (I have read of some people here getting 15 MINS!!! which is an ETERNITY for me in the air..). Still trying and checking out...I will report myself with new results...

[klaus070]

Thanks andersn for your reply. I will stay tuned to read what you are getting in flight time...Thanks again.

[martin_]

I sold my Scorpion 2010/Castle 50 6 weeks ago to a guy at the field and since I experiment with different 6S motor.

I now have an YGE (for its better governor) and tried the Tarot 1860kv, also the small red Turnigy 1860kv at HK, and two rewinded turnigy helidrive (1600 & 1900kv) and finally an Align 1700kv.

Turnigy & tarot 1860kv work great, longer flight time, ESC and lipo came down cooler, but the power is just not there, both are easy to bog.

Next are the hyperion/scorpion 1630, Align 1700 and the rewinded helidrive, they are more powerfull than the Tarot, turnigy &co. next and the most powerfull motor in 6S i've tried so far is still the scorpion 2010.

There is a new motor also on HK that someone have posted a few post back, I bought it and will do some test with it but this will be the last motor I experiment.

[andersn]

Originally Posted by martin_

I sold my Scorpion 2010/Castle 50 6 weeks ago to a guy at the field and since I experiment with different 6S motor.

I now have an YGE (for its better governor) and tried the Tarot 1860kv, also the small red Turnigy 1860kv at HK, and two rewinded turnigy helidrive (1600 & 1900kv) and finally an Align 1700kv.

Turnigy & tarot 1860kv work great, longer flight time, ESC and lipo came down cooler, but the power is just not there, both are easy to bog.

Next are the hyperion/scorpion 1630, Align 1700 and the rewinded helidrive, they are more powerfull than the Tarot, turnigy &co. next and the most powerfull motor in 6S i've tried so far is still the scorpion 2010.

There is a new motor also on HK that someone have posted a few post back, I bought it and will do some test with it but this will be the last motor I experiment.

thanks for the input, apparantly the new motor from hobbyking is 900watts, its also a fair bit heavier than tha tarot, so there is hope.

my tarot 1860 should land soon, how do you feel it is, vs other 3s motors? like the 2218, 2215 turnigy etc?

[martin_]

I don't know, the only motor I tried in 3S is the Scorpion 2221-8 in flybar configuration, then I moved Flybarless with 4S and I tried scorpion 2221-8 & 2221-10, (a bit more powerfull than 3S) all I remember is my 4s set-up was very similar in performance against 6S with a cheap motor.

I know of a guy at the field that have the turnigy 2218 in 3S, his is flybar, I don't know his setting exactly but I can ear it's a very boggy machine when he flys, nothing to compare with 6S.

[CHIEF-X]

i dunno what the hell happened but my trex 450 6s took a hard dirtnap yesterday. i was tuneing the tail on my microbeast and as soon as i had it pretty good the heli ROCKETED upward into the sky in a tailspin. once it hit the 80 foot mark i hit hold to auto down but had no control of servos and the blades stalled completely.

i had this happen one other time on the ground and all that happened was the tail spun out 180 degrees and the heli shut down. checked some wireing and after not finding any problems in voltage or bad soldier joints took it out to fly again. after 2 flights the whole mess happened.

any thoughts where to start? i gotta castle ice lite 50 esc, cc 6s bec, and scorpion 2221-2010 kv motor with a mks ds95i tail servo.

[mstenbo]

Hey all,
I just upgraded to 6s and I have a few questions about my ESC setup.

Btw I maidened it today and it was wicked.

My setup is:
Hobbywing Platinium 40A ESC with BEC @ 6v
Scorpion 2221-2010
12t helical pinion

What should my ESC timing be set at"
I have the choices: 0, 3.75, 7.5, 11.25, 15, 18.75, 22.5, 26.25
default is 15.
When I check the motor specs it says timing of the motor is 5deg. So what should ESC timing be?

What should my PWM frequency be? I have the choices 12KHz and 8KHz. Default is 12KHz. (And what the heck is PWM?)

What head speed should I be looking at? I am a sport flyer beginning some mild 3d.
What is "motor efficiency" that a headspeed calculator wants to know?

Thanks all in advance.

[Steemo]

Most motors have a peak efficiency that they operate at, most brushless motors is at around 85-95%, this just means if you run it much higher or lower than that then power consumption (amp) will be greater per watt of output power (excess will be lost to heat, hot motor = inefficient)

So ideally you want your gearing set up so that at ~90% max output you are getting the HS desired.

your setup calculates as followed.

([2010kv x 22.2v x 12T] / 121T) x 0.9 = 3980rpm

That really high and will give really short flight times, you could drop from 90% thr to 75% to achieve a HS of 3300 but that well below a brushless motors peak efficiency and won't be ideal. Better to gear down to a 11T pinion and stay at a higher Thr %:

([2010kv x 22.2v x 11T] / 121T) x 0.9 = 3650rpm

here you would only need to drop down to 85% to get a good head speed of 3400rpm

[SeanM]

Originally Posted by mstenbo

What should my PWM frequency be? I have the choices 12KHz and 8KHz. Default is 12KHz. (And what the heck is PWM?)

I would keep it at 12. As to what it means, I don't know for sure... but my best guess would be Pulse Width Modulation. It seems to effect the amount of time it takes the ESC to modulate the throttle to achieve the desired RPM. The higher the number, the more frequent it makes adjustments.