New Trex 450 L Dominator!

[Trexwilly]

I am pretty sure as long as the mounting bolt pattern is the same, then it should fit... The KDE motor is wider than the 450MX, and it fits?

Also, as long as Align has not changed anything in the boom clamp back, just the length of the boom, we might be able to use the new boom and TT to stretch or current 450Pros...

[what-d-heli]

More new pictures from flying hobby:

linky...

http://blog.flying-hobby.com/rc-news...os-on-specific

[SeanM]

Originally Posted by mickeyjohnston

Its getting closer.

T REX 450L DOMINATOR Test Flight 2 - YouTube

[ame]http://youtu.be/nWnBTXyu3tQ[/ame]

[tracernz]

Originally Posted by Trexwilly

Also, as long as Align has not changed anything in the boom clamp back, just the length of the boom, we might be able to use the new boom and TT to stretch or current 450Pros...

I hope so. My plan would be to get the 450L boom, TT, blades and possibly the motor if it's a screamer and put them in my 450 Pro.

Originally Posted by dwdw910

You might be right- because the frame panels are wider... and that motor seems to take up all that space.

Its hard to determine the proportions of the frame.. It could be a lot wider... or it could be just little bit wider than the Pro.

If the can were bigger- that would make me happier- a big old 6s motor in a 450 frame... this is going to be a mean little helicopter.

Yeah, if you look at the pic below it looks like the standard 450 Pro boom block with spacers around it. If that's the case it is quite a bit wider and that is a big motor.

[RedOctobyr]

Originally Posted by tracernz

I hope so. My plan would be to get the 450L boom, TT, blades and possibly the motor if it's a screamer and put them in my 450 Pro.

Yeah, if you look at the pic below it looks like the standard 450 Pro boom block with spacers around it. If that's the case it is quite a bit wider and that is a big motor.

Maybe this is just showing my ignorance But apart from the motor, how are the 450L boom, TT, and blades different than buying a Tarot Pro stretch kit (boom and TT), and going with 3rd-party 360 blades? Just that they're actual Align parts?

It would be cool if that motor is a beast, and could also squeeze into a Pro frame.

[Russell Harding]

As you can see, the entire layout of the helicopter has changed, with the top mount motor and under-slung battery. This may have some performance benefit (mass closer to main shaft and easier to balance COG)

New servos also are in the kit, but specs haven't been published yet.

So, yes, you could stretch a tarot pro, but this is basically an all new heli.

[tracernz]

Originally Posted by RedOctobyr

Maybe this is just showing my ignorance But apart from the motor, how are the 450L boom, TT, and blades different than buying a Tarot Pro stretch kit (boom and TT), and going with 3rd-party 360 blades? Just that they're actual Align parts?

It would be cool if that motor is a beast, and could also squeeze into a Pro frame.

The normal length Tarot TT that came in my kit was rubbish and so I put an Align one in when I built the heli. Based on that one I don't intend to buy another Tarot TT (but I am very pleased with lots of their other parts). As for blades I will more than likely use 3rd party ones rather than Align ones.

[RedOctobyr]

No, sorry, I should have worded it better. I was referring specifically to tracernz's comment that he would take those 450L parts and put them on his 450 Pro.

I meant how are the putting the 450L boom, TT, and blades on a 450 Pro, different than putting Tarot Pro stretch boom, TT, and other 360 blades on a 450 Pro.

The whole 450L in its entirety is most definitely a different machine than the 450 Pro

BTW, thank you what-d-heli for the pics link. They let me get a better look at it than I had before. I'm sort of curious what the white plastic things are on the outside of the frame. For instance, the square one at the boom block, the ones near the canopy pins, etc. Just decorative? There is even a white border around the vertical tail fin. The white pieces inside the frame are the spacers, I believe.

The ones on the outside of the frame look like they could be kind of the outer halves of spacer-sandwiches? I'm not really sure what they're doing, though, like why you need another piece on the outside of the CF frame.

[msallua]

1) The 450L Dominator comes with the new feathering shaft?

2) Can I use my batterys from my 450pro DFC 6S

I use this batterys

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...e_E4_etc_.html


Spec.
Capacity: 1300mAh
Voltage: 6S1P / 6 Cell / 22.2V
Discharge: 45C Constant / 90C Burst
Weight: 223g (including plug & case)
Dimensions: 75 x 35 x 47mm
Discharge Plug: XT60

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...e_E4_etc_.html

Spec.
Capacity: 1300mAh
Voltage: 6S1P / 6 Cell / 22.2V
Discharge: 35C Constant / 45C Burst
Weight: 234g (including wire, plug & case)
Dimensions: 76x35x46mm
Balance Plug: JST-XH
Discharge Plug: XT60


Thanks in advance

[Trexwilly]

I am speculating, but I would say with 82.65% surety, that they are spacers so the older Boom block can be used.. I have my figures crossed at least, if that is the case, no reason a guy couldn't use the new stuff to build a stretch pro

[RedOctobyr]

msallua, I certainly don't know for sure, but I would expect that your 6S batteries would not work.

Those are the "brick" shape, vs the standard long-rectangular shape. From the pictures we have seen of the 450L, I do not think there is enough room to fit the thickness of a "brick" pack inside the battery area of the frame.

I do hope this comes with the new, M2.5, feathering shaft. That would make a lot of sense. And would likely almost be required, given that it can swing larger 360s, up to 3600 RPM. Doing that with the smaller M2 bolts would seem extra-risky.

[Trexwilly]

Flying hard on any setup with the M2 screws is risky, we found that the cupping of the washer seems to coincide with the failures...

[mickeyjohnston]

Originally Posted by Trexwilly

Flying hard on any setup with the M2 screws is risky, we found that the cupping of the washer seems to coincide with the failures...

Your exactly right. When the washers get cupped the grips have move up and down play. This puts stress on the bolt and they break. What I did to fix this was, I used one of those "speciality washers" with the provided washer.

[Bimbo]

Hm, that happened to me as well, more or less. After ~400 flights I had a weird wobble, so I decided to take the rotor head apart, since I thought it was wear. Found out that one of those screws indeed looked a little bit bent, but you really had to have a close look to see it. The washers were cupped indeed. I'm glad nothing broke... :|

In the end the malfunction was in one of the roll servos btw (Align DS415M)... So the rotor head was in principle fine, performance wise.

[jolyboy]

Originally Posted by dwdw910

Boykster,

Ok... then explain why a cordless drill performs with more power and torque with a higher voltage?

That is a bad example because you are keeping the same electrical and mechanical gearing. In helis the gearing is adjusted so the rotor spins at the same rpm. If you did the test with a lower kv motor with the higher voltage you'll find that they perform much more closely.

If you take the principle of torque being proportional to current, you'll quickly arrive at the conclusion that once the rotor has been geared to match rotor speeds the power and torque outputs of 3s and 6s are very close.

I do agree that 6s performs better, but that example has its flaws.

[SeanM]

Trying to relate this detail in our hobby to real world will be damn near impossible.

Lets try to keep this short and sweet. A 6S 450 has several benefits over the 3S 450. It will be easier on the batteries, more efficient, cooler running, less voltage sag, etc. A powerful motor can be had with either, but its easier and cheaper to find one that runs on 6S.

[Trexwilly]

You never replied in the other thread Sean, what are your pack temps, and voltage sags on your setup?

What batteries are you using?

[SeanM]

I didn't reply because I couldn't really answer your question. I have yet to use the logs on my ICE 50 so I don't really know what the voltage sags are. However, I would have to assume that it's less than my previous 3S packs due to the more constant headspeed.

I'm using the same GensAce 1200 40C's that you're using and I don't have a temp gun to take a reading after a flight. I didn't need one though because it was pretty obvious how much cooler everything was running. The packs would come down barely warm, compared to fairly hot when using a Voltz 65C 2200 3S pack.

[Trexwilly]

How many cycles you got on the 1200 6S packs? My high timers are about 35 and my freshest less than 15, they are starting to heat up.

Oh man the voltz 65Cs were junk, I have a bag full of that voltz crap! it looks like a bag of burritos.

Voltz pulled a bait and switch, my first set was a pair of 3300 6S to use on a 600MM machine in series, they are still going good, then I got a pair of 2600 for my 500 they sucked out of the gate, just junk! I had half a dozen for the 450 and they just puffed and died under 25 cycles, yup they got hot!

Did you ever try the Gens Ace 3S packs, like the 2200 25C? Or the Sky Lipo 220040C?


Were you using the ICE 50 on the 3S build? The data logger is great.

[SeanM]

I don't keep track of how many flights are on each pack, but I've had them for about a year now and I would say that I have 150 flights on two and 100 flights on the other two. They are now running warmer than I remember when they were new, but the cell IR is still as low as it was when new. It could just be from me pushing them harder as my skill increases.

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with other 3S packs besides Voltz. I was pleased with my Voltz 1300 packs though, but they certainly didn't last as long as my GA 1200's have.