My Custom 700N Build - PIC Heavy

[Glenn Goodlett]

Are you guys running the back plate sensor sure your back plate has the steel plate on the inside?

Are you sure your gov is working properly? I'm not trying to insult your intelligence.

I just don't see how it could work, but I'm wrong more than I'm right.

I'd sure like to switch mine over because I hate the Align sensor inside the frames. I either got to change clutches or bearings every week.

[viktorsx]

Originally Posted by Goodlett

Are you guys running the back plate sensor sure your back plate has the steel plate on the inside?

Are you sure your gov is working properly? I'm not trying to insult your intelligence.

I just don't see how it could work, but I'm wrong more than I'm right.

I'd sure like to switch mine over because I hate the Align sensor inside the frames. I either got to change clutches or bearings every week.

Well i can not swear on the backplate, but it is the stock one. It is working exellent for me so far. I am running 100% curves in IU1 and 2 and regulating the rpm with the revlimiter, so if the sensor fails the engine goes flatout, you cant miss that.

[Glenn Goodlett]

Well, I ordered the stuff to try the backplate sensor with the 1.20.

[DCflyer]

Cool let us know how you make out.

[meowguy]

The sensor is pushed all the way to the backplate

I have the same KDE bracket on one of mine. Whether using the KDE or the plastic bracket supplied, I like having a 3mm washer under the bolt heads in contact with the bracket. I think it just spreads the load a little better on the back plate and the bracket in case of pan cake landing.

[viktorsx]

Pulled off the backplate to check and there is a steelplate. But its not magnetic, probably some kind of stainless steel.

[DCflyer]

Looks like a match to me.......

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...0G1aqPlSyQ.jpg

[jveneziano]

I have a os91hz and I want to run a backplate sensor do I need a steel back plate ?

[DCflyer]

No a steel backplate generally prevents sensing - we are trying to confirm a workaround for that here. Its a YS thing.

The OS engines use alloy backplates which allow for clear sensing. You should be good to go.

[DCflyer]

Couple things. Anyone have an update on the backplate situation?


Also, I was checking out some setups tonight and thought of something interesting........


What if I "stretch" the thing with a 700N DFC tail boom (15mm longer) and run some 715mm blades on it?

[Glenn Goodlett]

I'm pretty sure you can run 710s with the stock boom. I never likes the longer blades with a nitro.

[viktorsx]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Couple things. Anyone have an update on the backplate situation ?

Well, i have now installed an AR 7100r with backplate sensor on my second brand new 120sr and i works perfect. As i stated before the steelplate in the backplate is not magnetic and does not interfere the sensor.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by viktorsx

Well, i have now installed an AR 7100r with backplate sensor on my second brand new 120sr and i works perfect. As i stated before the steelplate in the backplate is not magnetic and does not interfere the sensor.

Excellent Viktor thanks for the update. Have you had a chance to tach any of those helis to see if the actual RPM is the same as what you've input into your governor?

[DCflyer]

Been a little while since I updated this but i've been working on this build.....

I took a break and decided to do a "scratch-build" 150x setup to have something smaller but pretty wicked to fly. That quick build thread here:

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...postcount=1378

Done quite a bit of work lately but still seems like i'm ages away from completion. I'm really on a mission to create the perfect Align 700 so its requiring assembling, measuring, disassembling, shimming, balancing, etc. Tedious process but i'm at the point where things are starting to go together for good.

This is what it looked like a week ago.......broken down again



I've done quite a bit of tinkering to get the tail system even better - will update that later once its together.

The past week or so i've been planning my wiring and test fitting things to the front nose cone, routing wires, measuring, wire sheathing, etc.

Also bound my new SK540 and did some initial setup so now everything is sensing the way it should be and servos are ready to be plugged in and set up.

I've also decided not to use the Multigov Pro and use the internal SK540 governor instead. Just less wiring and the SK's gov is a piece of cake to set up - i've gotten it to sense the crank pin with the backplate sensor on my YS120 so thats good news

So what i've done lately is the clutch/fan/block assembly for the motor and the installed the fuel tank.

I decided to go with a Lynx "Turbo fan" setup long with the Lynx heavy duty clutch. moving up is the 14T slanted Mod1 pinion and Lynx clutch block. The starter coupling I filed deeper recesses for the set screws to sink into and installed them with red loctite to keep the shaft from slipping. Everything loctite'd and ready for final install.





Took extra care when doing up the fuel tank. I cleaned out excess material from the pressure nipple and wiped the tank down. I also made sure I have good fuel pickup. Since YS motors run very high pressure systems I wanted to make sure I didn't have any leaks so I opted for:

Quick UK Plug retainer assembly
Lynx fuel tank nipple
Hayes fuel line (cut this a few mm's shorter to allow for the fuel line expanding)
OS Bubbleless Clunk



Watching the finless bob video, he mentioned you have to put the tank from one side of the frame with both frames joined together. I actually got the pressure nipple on the top of the tank to clear quite easily and was able to install the tank into one side of the frame. This should make joining the frames much easier and tank install a breeze. This due to the top quality CRC plastic and rubber safe silicone I used to lube up the rubber tank insulators.




Thats it for now......more to come.

[DCflyer]

More progress tonight - after much careful fitment, I got the motor, shroud, and third bearing block seated - had to file down the front of the block a tad to get it flush with the shroud bolt and now she's good. Head spins like butter. Motor is in.



And a quick preview of the Canopy choice. Align's V2 Pro lid with RCbooya quick releases front and rear. I'd love to have an Insane canopy but can't justify $300 for one, especially when this one was $35 brand new and it looks awesome in person.



More over the weekend.

[Glenn Goodlett]

I never got around to playing with the back plate sensor with the 120. Glad you got that working . Now I know. It looks good. Keep us posted.

[DCflyer]

Got a bunch of the little bits instaled into the airframe tonight. Also got the fuel lines in and the clutch block/clutch bell assembly. Was able to put on the canopy for the first time tonight - letting it sit overnight to "form".

I've seen 700's before but seeing one take shape in your room for the first time is quite breath taking - i can't believe how big it is.

[neville72]

hi there DCflyer your 700n is looking good '' was looking at that KDE third Bearing Block just what i need but dont think it will fit the new 700nitro DFC kit as it has a much narrower frames

[DCflyer]

Yea I don't think it will fit either. You can try emailing Patrick over at KDE and make sure on that.

[DCflyer]

Another update:

Doing some mock-up assembly of the aileron bellcranks and elevator linkage rods - I had to wait on some special sized shims to get everything to clear. Also discovered that my KDE thrusted bearing blocks are too large to allow the stock elevator bellcrank lever to clear - so I have acquired a KDE arm that must be used with the 700E or DFC A arm assembly which I am now waiting on. Once I get the elevator assembly on and functioning I will do the Aileron servos next which I have now mounted and shimmed the bellcranks and are ready to go.

The most recent completion was the full tail case and boom assembly. Wow - what a piece of art. Using the I2RC front casing I was able to perfectly adjust the gear mesh for the front drive gear.

I also opted to use a 700N DFC boom, which is 15mm longer, to allow for the 716mm mains and 116m tails this monster will be running.

To make sure everything stayed in line with the longer boom, I went with three torque tube bearings, spaced unequally along the boom to keep vibration to a minimum.

The rear tail case I have spent quite some time on - utilizing black gears throughout, I also went with a KDE tail pitch assembly and control links and 700 style tail rotor holder.

The stock spindle bolts were replaced with Lynx 3x11mm frame screws that were cut down by 3-4mm (Original idea by Fastone) - these should be much stronger.

Moving outward on the grips, I acquired a set of "chinese weight" bolts from HEIM JOINT, a member on here who machines them. They will help keep my tail servo happy by reducing the "tennis raquet effect" self-centering forces on the tail assembly.

The whole system spins butter smooth and is ready to go on after I get the head assembly fully together.

Pics:



Next to my 550's torque tube....quite a difference.