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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-09-2016, 09:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default shelled screw

last time I went to the field I had a bad tail wag so I checked all the heli to find the problem ( I didn't solve it yet ). I was disassembling the frame when I broken one screw with 1.5mm screwdriver! the screw is one of the two of the plastic bearing block of the main shaft.

now since I can't remove the screw with the screwdriver should I cut and broke the plastic bearing block and remove the screws or what? the left and right frame plate are blocked by the bearing block because I shelled one screw from the left side and another on the right side.

I hope I was clear.

Andrea
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Old 01-09-2016, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Do you mean the heads have sheared (I think that's what you mean) off the screws, or the hexagon sockets in the screw heads are worn so that the hex driver won't turn them?

If the heads are sheared off, you can still remove the bearing block by unfastening the remaining good screws and springing the side frames out to release the block. Then you might have enough broken screw visible that you can grip it with pliers to unfasten it.

If the hexagon sockets are worn, just cut a slot across the screw head with a disc on a Dremel, and then use a normal flat blade screwdriver to unscrew them.
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Old 01-10-2016, 11:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenn View Post
Do you mean the heads have sheared (I think that's what you mean) off the screws, or the hexagon sockets in the screw heads are worn so that the hex driver won't turn them?

If the heads are sheared off, you can still remove the bearing block by unfastening the remaining good screws and springing the side frames out to release the block. Then you might have enough broken screw visible that you can grip it with pliers to unfasten it.

If the hexagon sockets are worn, just cut a slot across the screw head with a disc on a Dremel, and then use a normal flat blade screwdriver to unscrew them.
the second! infact when I turn the driver the screw won't turn. I don't have a dremel so I'm not able to so I can't cut it and remove it with flat screwdriver! I was planning to try the fusuno g10 frame but it's share to trash these new carbon fiber frame plates just for two screws.
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Old 01-10-2016, 11:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Honestly, go get a dremel. It is so incredibly useful for so many things that you will quickly wonder how you got by without one. And when you factor the cost of a dremel against the cost of new frame halves, it's not that much extra.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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seriously, you don't need totrash the frame. I've always told everyone. all you need is a small pair of vice grips. clamp on tight to the bolt head and turn. pretty easy. works 9 times out of ten for everyone I know.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If the loctite is giving you a hard time, heat the bolt with a soldering iron to make it to give in.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Get a dremel and a good set of hex wrenches. MIP or equivalent. Cheap hex wrenches strip screws easy.
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Old 01-10-2016, 01:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by andrea_farins View Post
. . . when I turn the driver the screw won't turn. I don't have a dremel so I'm not able to so I can't cut it and remove it with flat screwdriver! I was planning to try the fusuno g10 frame but it's share to trash these new carbon fiber frame plates just for two screws.
If you don't have a Dremel, you can still cut a slot with a hacksaw blade Or, as has been mentioned, grip the head with a pair of pliers to turn it. There should be no loctite on screws that go into plastic, but heating the screw by heating your hex driver and then holding it in the screw head for a short while might help too.

Certainly there's no need to trash a frame just because those screws are difficult. If you think about it, buying a Dremel or similar might be cheaper than buying a new frame (well, maybe not), and you'll certainly find many uses for it later.
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Old 01-10-2016, 02:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You cant cut the plastic bearing block - there is two steel shafts going thru it that the bolts screw into.......

Those 1.5mm screws should be sent to hell - dont use unless you have to - and then dont use threadlock - dont use cheap allens - get a quality set.

And if you have to break these loose on yours or on existing one - touch the bolt head with a solder iron and count to 10 or 15 before you try to break it even the first time - sometimes you only get one chance...

If all else fail - then its dremel city - I find trying to grasp the head with lock pliers works only 1/4 of the time - unless you dremel two flats onto the head......

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Old 01-11-2016, 03:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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ok guys thanks all for the reply.

I'm using a set of HUDY screwdriver, I bought it few years ago and I think it's a good set and the tip is in good condition so I don't think it's the screwdriver, maybe a bit too much locker on this two screws.

I already tried with the heat gun without success so I will try with the soldering iron (280°C can be fine?) and see what will happen.

if the solderinf iron won't help me it will be time to buy a new dremel. Can you recommended one?
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:57 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have an 8220, which costs about $85-90. It's cordless, and plenty powerful.
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Old 01-11-2016, 05:23 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have an 8220, which costs about $85-90. It's cordless, and plenty powerful.
I'll take a look Gladius
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Old 01-11-2016, 12:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I bought a cheap single speed one in a pawn shop for $20......
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