550sx build - wiring closet

[hemp]

Some of you may be familiar with the "Cable Porn" that floats around the net among IT geeks. Basically it's pictures of OCD-style wiring jobs for server rooms and the like.

ˇ ˇ

Well I recently entered into a new 550sx build which I knew was going to take a while. Because I'm not in a hurry with this one, I'm applying many of the lessons and tricks I've learned and developed over years of building, crashing, and rebuilding Logos.

One of the lessons is that not everything that makes it look good is worth the effort. This is subjective of course, but just for me - it's not worth it. An example would be anodizing metal parts, for instance. They're neat to look at, but not something I care enough about to justify the effort. Another lesson is that sometimes the tradeoffs in making something look good are too much to ask. Example here is wrapping all the wires in braid. I love how they look, and I acknowledge that braid does an excellent job of protecting the wires, but it also makes them really difficult to trace and manipulate later.

Some things, however, are worth the time and the tradeoffs. One example is hiding all the wires, "in the closet". In other words, routing the wires inside and thru the frame rather than around it.

This is all still work-in-progress. I'm waiting for my motor to be serviced and I very stupidly blew up the brand new Neo that was going on this heli, so I'm also waiting for its replacement. But you can use your imagination to fill in the missing pieces.

I will update the thread as I progress, but figured it would be fun to follow along instead of dumping it all at the end.


All wires originating in front of the main shaft route to the rear through a fairly large rectangular hole through the frame. Hole is large enough that servo leads fit easily even with all the wires routed so that they can be pulled out and pushed back through later, as needed.


Hard to really see here and I failed to get a good picture before closing up the sides, but in the rear section, opposite the elevator servo, there are two black wire ties - one on the "back wall" and one on the "floor" which allow me to easily tie up, untie, and retie all the wires that run through there. That includes the wires routed through the hole from the front, as well as the left and right aileron and elevator servo leads (so they don't need to be shortened or interfere with the elevator servo arm.) Note that I don't currently have all the wires tied up because I'm still moving them around a lot and likely have one more wire to add there (for the battery ID sensor.)

To install the wire ties I drilled two small holes for each one while the frame sides were apart. Then I inserted each end of the ties through the back, and gave it a single tight twist in the front to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Deciding how much excess wire to leave in place is the hardest part. Too little and it won't hold all your wire, too much and it adds to the mess you're trying to clean up.


The tail servo lead routes up through the frame via another dremel-made hole. It's important to make these holes before joining the frame sides so you have enough room to work and clean up the plastic after drilling/cutting.

Opposite the pictured hole is another one just like it for the Optipower Ultra Guard's power lead to route. I'll add a picture later showing how it's mounted.


The U/I Sensor is soldered directly to the leads from ESC and mounted underneath with the connector sticking out. There's plenty of room above my packs, so this works out nicely and eliminates something I never liked: The U/I Sensor flopping around when the model is flown without a canopy. Of course the spektrum sat lead coming off the sensor routes up through the frame with the ESC wires.



The Hobbywing Platinum Pro V4 130A HV is a large ESC, too big for the canopy with the fan installed. So instead I mounted the fan directly underneath, blowing up at it. Not as effective as blowing down on the heatsink, but definitely better than not having a fan.


(work in progress)
I'll probably re-route the two leads that currently wrap briefly around the frame. Both will likely require small frame modifications. The ESC-motor leads I can't do anything with until I have the motor back from service. Ideally they'll sneak in underneath the ESC through the motor opening and not have to wrap around the frame, but it's important to be able to unplug and replug those bullets so function comes first.

[doubletap]

Originally Posted by hemp

Some of you may be familiar with the "Cable Porn" that floats around the net among IT geeks. Basically it's pictures of OCD-style wiring jobs for server rooms and the like.

ˇ ˇ

Well I recently entered into a new 550sx build which I knew was going to take a while. Because I'm not in a hurry with this one, I'm applying many of the lessons and tricks I've learned and developed over years of building, crashing, and rebuilding Logos.

One of the lessons is that not everything that makes it look good is worth the effort. This is subjective of course, but just for me - it's not worth it. An example would be anodizing metal parts, for instance. They're neat to look at, but not something I care enough about to justify the effort. Another lesson is that sometimes the tradeoffs in making something look good are too much to ask. Example here is wrapping all the wires in braid. I love how they look, and I acknowledge that braid does an excellent job of protecting the wires, but it also makes them really difficult to trace and manipulate later.

Some things, however, are worth the time and the tradeoffs. One example is hiding all the wires, "in the closet". In other words, routing the wires inside and thru the frame rather than around it.

This is all still work-in-progress. I'm waiting for my motor to be serviced and I very stupidly blew up the brand new Neo that was going on this heli, so I'm also waiting for its replacement. But you can use your imagination to fill in the missing pieces.

I will update the thread as I progress, but figured it would be fun to follow along instead of dumping it all at the end.


All wires originating in front of the main shaft route to the rear through a fairly large rectangular hole through the frame. Hole is large enough that servo leads fit easily even with all the wires routed so that they can be pulled out and pushed back through later, as needed.


Hard to really see here and I failed to get a good picture before closing up the sides, but in the rear section, opposite the elevator servo, there are two black wire ties - one on the "back wall" and one on the "floor" which allow me to easily tie up, untie, and retie all the wires that run through there. That includes the wires routed through the hole from the front, as well as the left and right aileron and elevator servo leads (so they don't need to be shortened or interfere with the elevator servo arm.) Note that I don't currently have all the wires tied up because I'm still moving them around a lot and likely have one more wire to add there (for the battery ID sensor.)

To install the wire ties I drilled two small holes for each one while the frame sides were apart. Then I inserted each end of the ties through the back, and gave it a single tight twist in the front to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. Deciding how much excess wire to leave in place is the hardest part. Too little and it won't hold all your wire, too much and it adds to the mess you're trying to clean up.


The tail servo lead routes up through the frame via another dremel-made hole. It's important to make these holes before joining the frame sides so you have enough room to work and clean up the plastic after drilling/cutting.

Opposite the pictured hole is another one just like it for the Optipower Ultra Guard's power lead to route. I'll add a picture later showing how it's mounted.


The U/I Sensor is soldered directly to the leads from ESC and mounted underneath with the connector sticking out. There's plenty of room above my packs, so this works out nicely and eliminates something I never liked: The U/I Sensor flopping around when the model is flown without a canopy. Of course the spektrum sat lead coming off the sensor routes up through the frame with the ESC wires.



The Hobbywing Platinum Pro V4 130A HV is a large ESC, too big for the canopy with the fan installed. So instead I mounted the fan directly underneath, blowing up at it. Not as effective as blowing down on the heatsink, but definitely better than not having a fan.


(work in progress)
I'll probably re-route the two leads that currently wrap briefly around the frame. Both will likely require small frame modifications. The ESC-motor leads I can't do anything with until I have the motor back from service. Ideally they'll sneak in underneath the ESC through the motor opening and not have to wrap around the frame, but it's important to be able to unplug and replug those bullets so function comes first.

I want to switch my 690 with 120 cc hv to hw 130 this gives me a clear pix. Thanks for posting.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by doubletap

I want to switch my 690 with 120 cc hv to hw 130 this gives me a clear pix.

You can also mount it higher for better canopy clearance, but doing so means you can't use the upper mounting tabs. I've opted to use all four mounting tabs with self-tapping screws and a single thin zip tie for added insurance.

I haven't tried it with a 690sx canopy. It's possible the larger dome will allow the fan to fit. But there's no way I could see that it would fit under the 550sx lid.

[Number]

That ESC looks huge on that Personally, I would have gone with the HW 120LV V4 at about half the price.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Number

Personally, I would have gone with the HW 120LV V4 at about half the price.

No doubt most people would.

Since the ESC I had on my last 550sx had a thermal shut down which led to the model auto'ing gently into a river and getting written off as a nearly complete loss -- I decided I'm quite the fan of overkill in speed controllers. More importantly, I don't make comments about other people's ESC choices. I don't think you meant anything by it. Just came off a little judgey.

Since it's the exact same airframe as the 690sx, showing how I mounted it has value. Even among those less inclined to waste money on over-sized electronics.

[Number]

Hey, FWIW, I'll be using the same ESC in my Protos Max 700

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Number

Hey, FWIW, I'll be using the same ESC in my Protos Max 700

It's a nice ESC, but it wouldn't last 2 minutes on a Max 700 with me flying. Some call it heli abuse, I just call it therapy.

[Luigi_tuga]

Originally Posted by hemp

It's a nice ESC, but it wouldn't last 2 minutes on a Max 700 with me flying. Some call it heli abuse, I just call it therapy.

Ahah
adrenaline as a cure

[Number]

Originally Posted by hemp

It's a nice ESC, but it wouldn't last 2 minutes on a Max 700 with me flying. Some call it heli abuse, I just call it therapy.

It all depends on setup. It handles 710 wide chord at 2200rpm with a 4530 just fine

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Number

It all depends on setup. It handles 710 wide chord at 2200rpm with a 4530 just fine

You must think I'm new.

[Steve Graham]

Hi Shawn,

Got a 550SX that i've had for a long time but not built. A local kid and I are gonna build it together so he can get some experience building. He's already flying a 180, 360 and my Synergy E and N 700's. He wants to learn to build. I'd forgotten you're a Logo guy so we may lean on you from time to time. This is my first LOGO. It has the Scorpion HK3 4025-1100 and YGE 90 LV with the power BEC as part of the package.

I was just curious which ESC you shut down? I'm also a fan of overkill with speedos but this is the unit Gorgon at Mikado recommended so I decided to go with it.

Should be a fun project. He's 11 and already doing how to videos

[Dennis Everett]

when you run the wires by the main shaft , could it be a problem with the wires hitting the shaft ?
when you get to the back where a rats nest of wires are , do you cut them off and add connectors , or hide them ?
i can see where a 130 is a good idea , my 550 had a 100 on it , got pretty hot at times ...

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Steve Graham

I was just curious which ESC you shut down?

So far the only one I haven't shut down is the HW 130HV with a fan blowing on it. But, give me time - I'm sure I'll get there eventually. I'm not a great example when it comes to knowing which ESC will work on a model. I tend to keep pushing until I hear the batteries cry out for mercy. Some people use stress balls.

Anyway, the YGE 90lv is a good unit and a nice fit for the 550sx - it's the combo ESC recommended by Mikado. I ended up going to a MOD1 main gear and pinion to get more headspeed (with sufficient room.) But most people fly and love the 550sx in its stock config. Really is an awesome machine, super light, logo smooth, amazing for low headspeed precision collective practice and flies like a big heli without needing all the room.

For the sake of entertainment, I've killed a YGE 90 LV, a HeliJive 120, and sank a YGE 120 LVK. In that model alone. But my current setup is actually pulling less current and coming down cooler, so either I turned a corner or I have a lot less stress.

[Andy from Sandy]

On a T-Rex 600 nitro when the 2-in-1 was popular a guy at the club put the wire from the switch block in a braid sleeve. It didn't protect the wire and it got cut over time rubbing against the carbon frame. One day returning to the pits after a flight the model cut out, that's when he discovered the wire had been cut.

I see no point in covering the wires.

I also can't be bothered with drilling holes in the frames. I just run the throttle, bec and telemetry leads between gap made by the left (looking from the front) aileron servo inside a bit of unshrunk heatsink for protection.

But as a hobby it is up to each of us to create our own entertainment as we see fit.

[Number]

It would have gotten cut sooner if there was no sleeve

[hemp]

Also, not all braid is created equal...

As for drilling holes, that's purely a cosmetics thing. Sort of like washing the car, doesn't accomplish much, but it sure looks better.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Dennis Everett

when you run the wires by the main shaft , could it be a problem with the wires hitting the shaft ?

Nope. First I make sure to create the holes as close to the side wall as I can, but also there's really no slack on the wires inside that cavity, and it's a pretty small cavity. I'm not using it to store excess wire --- if you did that, then it could definitely rub. Though I could imagine adding some sort of barrier if you wanted to use it for that. Certainly a convenient location.

Originally Posted by Dennis Everett

when you get to the back where a rats nest of wires are , do you cut them off and add connectors , or hide them ?

I hide them using the twist ties that I pre-installed to lock them down. If I run out of twist tie then I will trim back some of the wires, but I prefer not to if I don't have to. So the key is to make sure the ties are plenty long to capture all of it.

One note. This works out fine on a logo because they have very low vibration and offer a smooth ride. The wires don't rub at high frequency, so running them through a hole in the plastic or wrapping them (loosely) with a twist tie shouldn't pose any issue, even over time. On a nitro, though, I would definitely want to protect the wires from the frame and probably wouldn't be comfortable using a twist tie at all.

[Steve_JR]

This is how I did my Logo 480. All wires braided and shortened for Neo setup. I am still too OCD to not braid my wires and will probably always do that. All wires that can run internal are done so.

[hemp]

Looking good Steve!

480 is a little small for my taste so I haven't had the pleasure of building one.

[doubletap]

I've seen hemp's 550sx it looks neat. Very well thought of. All i say is wow where are all those wires?...