Purchased X50e kit... you may need to hold my hand

[Aziego]

The 750mx should have a shaft that is long enough to engage the bottom bearing block unless it was cut. You should look into ordering a replacement shaft instead.

[Mow Manten]

The 750mx does not come in 890kv. Thinking of getting a Scorpion 4025 890.

347mont any progress on the build?

[347mont]

Originally Posted by Mow Manten

The 750mx does not come in 890kv. Thinking of getting a Scorpion 4025 890.

347mont any progress on the build?

No. Received the metal bearing blocks yesterday so I

plan to do a bit today. Ive been busy the last couple of days

assembling flat pack furniture for my hobby room/man cave.

Its going to be 44*C here in Perth today so indoors for me

keeping busy with some X50e building action

[347mont]

So yesterday was an absolute scorcher here in Perth WA and I spent a lot of the day continuing

on the build. The upper and lower metal bearing blocks arrived so I decided to finish off the head.



Man I had such a hard time putting the links onto the rod.



Whats the most efficient way of doing this part of the job. Further up the track theres more links to

put on the rods and I want to have most of my fingers left lol. I was doing it as if I was tapping a thread

into metal, 2 turns tighten then 1 turn back. It was bloody hard work and I couldn't believe the heat

that was generated form cutting a thread, any tips please for the next lot.

As I had the lower metal bearing block I was able to continue on putting the frame together

[347mont]

Now it was time for the gear set.



Ran into a little problem were the main gear was ever so slightly rubbing on the frame. After an hour

I realized that the clutch housing was on upside down.



Up to this point I wasted a lot of time on things like putting the clutch housing in wrong and a lot of

time was spent figuring out where the specific screws go in what holes in the frame. I found the

diagrams a bit congested and confusing from the frame assembly up to where I am now which is servo installation.

Also having a set of verniers was very handy to make sure I was putting in the correct screw in its

correct place.

A rule is also very hany for following the lines on the diagram, by eye it can be very misleading I found.

Its no biggy, but this damage was already on the tail boom bracket out of the box.



Did I do this part correct? 2 bearings (item 2 page 14) into the pitch slider.



Mow Manten mentioned earlier in this thread that the tail pitch control links were only held on by

pins that are straight dowel. Certainly not ideal, as Mow said they could work themselves loose

in flight. I'll put some CA on them, that should do the job. I didn't see that mentioned (about putting CA on pins) in the manual.


WOW its night time already... At least its starting to look like a helicopter. I'm now up to page 17 in the

manual, servo installation. Oh and I did go the Align HSL 75001 for tail and HSL7001 for cyclics,

I'm short 1 cyclic servo as there was no more stock.



This morning i went through the tail hub/rotor assembly as I did not lock tite any of the screws because I

wasn't 100% sure I was using the correct screws in the correct place. So double checked everything

and its all got thread lock on it

1) My main question so far is about the ball links, an easy way to put them on the rod pleeeeaase.

2) 2 bearings in the tail pitch control slider correct?

3) Whats a good way to check the ball link fit, when are they too tight or too loose??

Thanks guys.

[Aziego]

1. I use these

http://www.ronlund.com/mm5/merchant....ct_Code=KSJ737

Though it is made for standard sized links. The big pitch link that you already completed will not fit. It will work for the rest of the links. There are also metal ones available.

2. Yes

3. You just need to feel the links once you pop them into the balls. TT links are usually good, most fit perfectly. Most should move freely with little resistance, some may have a Little more resistance. Would not be concern unless they are tight. If too tight you can get a link sizing tool or chuck a ball in a dremel and run it in short bursts. Other people pinch the link with pliers when mounted on the ball. Only the pitch link felt tight to me, and i just left it alone.

Chance of a link that is too loose in a new heli is minimal, but you can wiggle it to see if it moves when pressed onto the ball.

[347mont]

Originally Posted by Aziego

1. I use these

http://www.ronlund.com/mm5/merchant....ct_Code=KSJ737

Though it is made for standard sized links. The big pitch link that you already completed will not fit. It will work for the rest of the links. There are also metal ones available.

2. Yes

3. You just need to feel the links once you pop them into the balls. TT links are usually good, most fit perfectly. Most should move freely with little resistance, some may have a Little more resistance. Would not be concern unless they are tight. If too tight you can get a link sizing tool or chuck a ball in a dremel and run it in short bursts. Other people pinch the link with pliers when mounted on the ball. Only the pitch link felt tight to me, and i just left it alone.

Chance of a link that is too loose in a new heli is minimal, but you can wiggle it to see if it moves when pressed onto the ball.

Thanks Aziego, your info helps. If anything they feel a little too tight however I've only done

the 2 pitch rods. Every thing else like gear mesh or any binding on the biuld so far seems "A OK"

[Mow Manten]

Looking good! Quite some progress in a short time. How does the wife feels about this, because sometimes the wifes need a little attention too :-).

Maidened mine saturday; went very well. Did hold low RPM because of the engine which does not fit completely. Ordered a 10s setup (engine, accus, ESC, UBEC). Furthermore will have to do some adjustments in the Beast 7200.

About the links; that is hard work indeed. And the funny thing is that I found out that my Swashplate is a little low; so I will have to make the links longer again to set up a correct PitchCurve. Because now I can do a negative pitch curve of -17 and a positive of +12 max.

[347mont]

Haha Mow I'm a single man so no wife to keep happy.

I did a few things twice and really had to concentrate

on the diagram to see where the lines for screws were pointing

to so I could of got through it a lot quicker than I did in

hindsight. The build is the fun and easier bit for me, doing

the electronic side of it and the setup will be time consuming

and choosing correct electronic I predict.

Glad to hear you got your new X50e maidened, nice work mate.

Man those ball links did my head in at one point haha but

now I know theres a propper tool to do the job. I might get

new links because I ended up using screw drivers to assist

in getting them on. I wish both of us luck for some fun flying.

The 750mx motor I want to use is out of stock so I'm thinking the Kontronik 700 Pyro 520

or the KDE 600XF 530' as a backup plan if I can't get the 750mx in the next couple

of weeks, what do you guys think.

All the best.

[347mont]

At last I managed to find vendor that has got the 750mx

motor back in stock so I jumped on it. I also found the

other cyclic servo, Align 70001HV so I can carry on with

the build when the parts arrive. The 750mx were sold

out everywhere. When I get some funds together I think

I'll be using a CC Edge 120HV ESC. Should be ok u reckon.

[347mont]

Hi men, so got a few more things for my build. I got hold of the cyclic servo I

needed and have installed that puppy and also the 750mx motor. Now the problem. The

holes on the motor don't line up with the holes on the motor mount, only the 2

"elongated" holes line up . Why is it so, TT state it can take a wide variety

of motors including 3Mx25 and 4Mx30. The 750MX is as you would have guessed

4x30. Would really like some one to set me straight ASAP, I'd like to get

this bird going.

I found this very short thread basicaly saying just use the 2 holes that line up, is this safe.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=455538

Thanks guys

[TomC]

Originally Posted by 347mont

Hi men, so got a few more things for my build. I got hold of the cyclic servo I

needed and have installed that puppy and also the 750mx motor. Now the problem. The

holes on the motor don't line up with the holes on the motor mount, only the 2

"elongated" holes line up . Why is it so, TT state it can take a wide variety

of motors including 3Mx25 and 4Mx30. The 750MX is as you would have guessed

4x30. Would really like some one to set me straight ASAP, I'd like to get

this bird going.

I found this very short thread basicaly saying just use the 2 holes that line up, is this safe.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=455538

Thanks guys

I also just use 2 motor bolts with my helidrive 700 sized 560kv motor. Works fine. I also needed a TT motor mount adapter in order to line the motor pinion to the maingear properly and still have enough clearance to use the bottom motor bearing support.

Cheers,
TomC

[347mont]

Originally Posted by TomC

I also just use 2 motor bolts with my helidrive 700 sized 560kv motor. Works fine. I also needed a TT motor mount adapter in order to line the motor pinion to the maingear properly and still have enough clearance to use the bottom motor bearing support.

Cheers,
TomC

Ok Tom, thanks mate , your another person who only uses the 2 screws for the

motor. That puts my mind at ease. I emailed Thunder Tiger as well to ask them and

will let everyone know what they say . The shaft on the 750MX is long, actually

its about 35mm and goes through the lower motor mount set no problem at all.

[TomC]

Originally Posted by 347mont

The shaft on the 750MX is long, actually

its about 35mm and goes through the lower motor mount set no problem at all.

The potential problem is not the length of the motor shaft (+32mm works fine) it is that some large motors have a raised portion of motor shaft just above the motor mount. This means that you cannot slip the stock TT pinions low enough to properly line up with the maingear and give you enough room to mount/use the bottom motor bearing mount (mounted right side up as per manual btw). The solution is to use the optional TT motor mount adapter which raises the motor up ~2mm. Anyway, I'm sure you will figure this out and worse case, just do not use the bottom motor bearing mount. Probably don't need it unless you hard 3d anyway.

Cheers,
TomC

[347mont]

Thanks again champ for taking the time. The 750mx motor is flat on the bottom

where the shaft comes out so I think I'll be alright. I saw that pointed out in the manual

advising to use the motor adaptor if the motor you're using does indeed have

a step. The 750mx doesn't, she's flat as an ironing board.

[347mont]

Small update... ordered Castle 120HV ESC yesterday so should be here on

Monday Now I'm decidiing on FBL gyro. I've only ever used the BeastX

but I'm more than likely going to try out the Vbar.

[347mont]

OK so I'm going to give the Vbar a crack, hope its easy to set up and nothing untowards happens

and regret changing team from the AR7200BX. Also as a side note I've had no response from

Thunder Tiger when I emailed them about only using 2 M4 screws to mount the 750MX motor.

Thats not what I was hoping for, I'd much rather be telling you guys how great the TT team were

and responding to my question and their service was 2nd to none. I sent my question to

helihotline@hobbico.com


not really a hotline I sent the email on the 29th Jan 2014. Is there a different address I should try.

[gwright]

i'll try to find out where that email goes. I work at hobbico, and it may be that someone sent that question to thundertiger and hasn't had a response. Hobbico is not thundertiger. Hobbico is a distributor of their products. However, that is no excuse.I'll find out where it goes and tell them to respond to you that two bolts will be fine <G>.

[347mont]

Originally Posted by gwright

i'll try to find out where that email goes. I work at hobbico, and it may be that someone sent that question to thundertiger and hasn't had a response. Hobbico is not Thunder Tiger. Hobbico is a distributor of their products. However, that is no excuse.I'll find out where it goes and tell them to respond to you that two bolts will be fine <G>.

Thanks gwright, my email was answered and for anyone who wants to know I got the answer I was

hoping. Yes 2 x 4M screws are adequate . Just working out my finances and I'll probably end

up with a Vbar today. I want to make sure I remember all the little things like bullet connectors for

the ESC, wires, servo extention leads etc. Being my 1st big heli (see sig) I've never run the electronics

off its own power supply (2s lipoo/ LiFe) so will make sure I get everything I need.

[347mont]

Greetings... So now I have an ESC, motor and a few days ago I got myself a Vbar FBL gyro.

I wanted to try a Vbar out and get some experience with one. I've only ever used the AR7200BX

so this should be interesting. And if you remember I'm using Align HV BL servos, I think its a nice combo.

What can you guys recommend for batteries, this is the last signicant item/s I need. I have Trex 500

and plan on being a proud owner of a Gaui X5 sometime this year so if I'm able to share batteries with

one of these models that would be great. To me, and I'm no expert and unsure but 3000Mah batteries

may be a bit small for the TTX50e and I wouldn't want to go bigger than that in the Trex 500??? 3300 will

be too big for the Trex 500, so do you all think finding a sized battery to share with a Gaui X5 would

be best. Thanks for your help and heres a picture for you's