Question on part numbers for FB'd 550E v2

[helirifick]

I bought a 550E v2 combo kit -- p/n KX021007 -- and will start building it soon. I would like to get some spare parts, upgrades, whatever....

(1). I am confused about part numbers -- it seems they are both 550 and 600 part numbers. For instance, for the 550e v2 headblock / metal main rotor housing: is it p/n H60202 or H55004 ??

i.e. is it:

http://www.aligntrexstore.com/600PRO...02-_p_489.html


or

http://www.aligntrexstore.com/Metal-...004_p_782.html


If you go to align's part finder (where you click on the diagram of the head), you get the H60202 but if you go to aligntrexstore and navigate down by heli type, you get the H55004.

I wish Align would provide a frigging parts listing with their manuals.


(2). I think I am going to put a CC Edge 100 lite ESC and a separate BEC on this 550E v2. Are there any other upgrades you guys recommend (e.g. scorpion or kontronik motor, better servos like tail servo (e.g. MKS DS760), etc, etc) ??

(3). Although I am not planning to convert it to FBL, is there a conversion package that Align provides that will either make this thing FBL??

(4). I assume 6s 5000 mAh 45C Pulse batteries would be sufficient to fly it ??

thanks much

[SumOFparts]

Hope this helps -
http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli/ALIGN_PARTS.html

[helirifick]

Thanks. I've looked on Ron's website too. It's good information.

When I click on the head block of the 550e flybarred, I get the web page for H55004 to open up:

http://www.ronlund.com/rcheli-prod/H55004.html

However, if I go to the Align's own parts finder for parts comprising the head of the 550e v2 super combo:

http://shop.align.com.tw/partfinder....11&language=en

and click on the head block (# 53 in the picture), I get a popup with H60202, which is this here:

http://shop.align.com.tw/product_inf...oducts_id=3831


I am getting the feeling that the 550E v2 super combo shares a lot of common parts with the 600 whereas 550E v1 has its own .

confused, as I don't want to order v1 parts and have them not work on the v2.

[FNFAL]

So it's either one or the other...can you just take a look at your existing rotor and see which one it matches?

If I recall, the older fb head had a seesaw around the mast with only the smallish flybar going through the hole. The latter design, has the seesaw and flybar within the mast thus necessitating a bigger opening in the middle. I would suspect your V2 is the "600" style...but a visual check is the sure way.

[helirifick]

I don't have the kit in my hands yet -- may be I'll get it by the weekend and then I can probably pick spare parts to look like what came in the box .

However, I keep reading here that Align has been upgrading this thing during its manufacturing life-span (I think it's discontinued now, but it's still on align's website) and there are upgrades/replacement parts specifically for the 550E v2 that weren't part of the original v2.

Also, what other upgrades should I put in it -- better servos, motor, ESC, 556mm Rail blades??

@FNFAL, yeah, I think you have a very valid point -- there seems to be a tonne of H6xxxx series part #'s instead of H5xxxx on the 550E v2 part listing on align's click-on-it parts listing. It's like it's the same helicopter, except for 600 is a 12s setup, longer boom, bigger blades, better electronics....

Originally Posted by FNFAL

So it's either one or the other...can you just take a look at your existing rotor and see which one it matches?

If I recall, the older fb head had a seesaw around the mast with only the smallish flybar going through the hole. The latter design, has the seesaw and flybar within the mast thus necessitating a bigger opening in the middle. I would suspect your V2 is the "600" style...but a visual check is the sure way.

[FNFAL]

Indeed think of the 550E as a cut-down 600...a sawed-off shotgun if you will . The 550 flies good stock but it also has a significant "tuner" base too...with a host of aftermarket parts still available for it.

I commend you on going the FB route. Something about all those linkages that looks visceral and cool. I think everybody should have at least one in the stable just to keep in-touch with the roots of this hobby. To see the Bell-Hiller arm in action is so much more useful than just a number in a box of a FBL HMI.

Servo selection is less critical for a FB app. As far as ESC, something in the 120A+ category of your choice would be nice. With blades, the intent of the 550 was a little more edge and a little less float. Therefore, I'd go with a little more HS and a little less blade (I like the SAB 525).

But if you have money burning a hole in your pocket:

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-t55...unt-p2283.html

http://www.rc-tek.com/store/i2rc-dbt...hub-p2310.html

http://grandrc.com/Elec.-Helis-&-Par...duct_info.html

http://www.kdedirect.com/collections...e600xf-1100-g3

http://www.kdedirect.com/collections...de550-600-pbsa

http://www.kdedirect.com/collections...0-600-700-tbsm

http://www.kdedirect.com/collections...cts/at550-rfmb

[Bladecpnitro]

Hey FNFAL, do you use thrust bearings on the main shaft?

[Soft_landing]

I use thrust bearing on the main shaft. Based on my experience, the stock bearing becomes notchy after a few flight. Maybe align uses abec 1 bearing. I don't know. When I started using abec 5, the main shaft stays smooth even after hundreds of flight.

[FNFAL]

Yes, I use the HeliOption block...but I don't think they're available any more.

KDE, RC-Tek & Microheli still make versions. But I like the Lynx with the X-member. Here's two left:


http://grandrc.com/Elec.-Helis-&-Par...duct_info.html

Are they necessary? No. Are they nice to have? Yes.

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

Hey FNFAL, do you use thrust bearings on the main shaft?

[SumOFparts]

+1 on the helioption one - best one out there.....

bet there's a bunch of em collecting dust that never got mounted....
- couple want adds could fix that......

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Yes, I use the HeliOption block...but I don't think they're available any more.

KDE, RC-Tek & Microheli still make versions. But I like the Lynx with the X-member. Here's two left:


http://grandrc.com/Elec.-Helis-&-Par...duct_info.html

Are they necessary? No. Are they nice to have? Yes.

They might help in tic tocs and hard punch outs where Radial bearings become loaded on the ends where they were not designed.

I can't tell by looking at the pic on that site how the load is transferred to the radial bearings. Since the inner race is not supported in between top and bottom bearings I assume the load must be transferred to the outer race of the radial bearings?

In stock trim the inner race bears the up and down end loads causing extra friction in the radial bearings that I can hear and feel in my Trex 550 V2 during tic tocs.

I read where a guy installed thrust bearings on his 600 size Nitro machine and afterwards could do endless aileron tic tocs where before 4 or 5 would bog it down to where he'd have to move on to something else or back off and regroup.

[FNFAL]

Hi Blade CP,

Like your handle btw...that was my first "real" heli.

Indeed miniature (Conrad style - non-angular contact) ball bearings are only rated for incredibly small amounts of axial force.

I've see most of the mentioned designs and usually each block employs a thrust bearing and a radial bearing. Some have the thrust inboard, and some outboard.

But either way, with the use of various inner or outer race spacers, they do allow for proper distribution of axial and radial loads to the acting bearings. (just like in your head grips).

The only one in the crowd that is different is the RC-Tek (I2) where Bob decided to go with a single bearing block design with an over-sized radial to take the extra axial loads.

But even if you run the numbers, the axial forces are usually small enough to allow the stock units to last...until the next crash for me...

[FNFAL]

Yah, I can believe that. The construction of the bearing could act as a taper-locking device as axial forces increase, causing transient binding I presume. And depending on ABEC ratings, internal clearances, geometries, weights, etc.

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

I read where a guy installed thrust bearings on his 600 size Nitro machine and afterwards could do endless aileron tic tocs where before 4 or 5 would bog it down to where he'd have to move on to back off and regroup.

[SumOFparts]

One of the problems is just before a radial fails - it creates a huge drag force when you heavily load that bearing.....bearing may seem fine until til you twerk it....

I know this from the road bikes - when you attack a hill - and those bearings are wobbling and dragging - it sucks - literally.....you can feel the extra drag - for sure.....

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Hi Blade CP,

Like your handle btw...that was my first "real" heli.



But even if you run the numbers, the axial forces are usually small enough to allow the stock units to last...until the next crash for me...

Thanks! A Blade CP was my first CP heli as well. I came up with the Bladecpnitro handle because I found myself wishing I could fuel and fly my Blade CP instead of waiting 1.5 hours to charge for a mediocre 4 minute hover.

I still think a small nitro heli would be neat but I'd miss that electric power.

Align T-Rex 450 Nitro (first flight) (3 min 16 sec)

My Blade CP had the 9v NiMh batteries and was almost powerless but would hover. I did learn to hover it indoors in the winter and wouldn't trade those days for nothing. I was so excited that moment when it finally clicked and I hovered an entire pack without wadding it up in a ball.

I'm hearing something squeak when I do tic tocs on the 550, it has to be the mains I think. My main bearings are fairly new and I keep them well oiled.

[FNFAL]

Ha! Who knew back then there was a heli world beyond hovering...lol

But outside of my Picco Z, actually my starter heli was so much better than yours

I had the Blade CP+

I'm not sure what the "+" was for, but it had to be totally better!


The squeak could also be gearing. For kicks, get some silicone grease and coat your main gear lightly (as it will fling) and see if the noise changes.

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by FNFAL

Ha! Who knew back then there was a heli world beyond hovering...lol

But outside of my Picco Z, actually my starter heli was so much better than yours

I had the Blade CP+

I'm not sure what the "+" was for, but it had to be totally better!


The squeak could also be gearing. For kicks, get some silicone grease and coat your main gear lightly (as it will fling) and see if the noise changes.

I'll try the silicone grease. Thanks!

I think the Blade CP+ only added 3S Lipo which was definitely a plus.


Mine had the 72Mhz radio and 9.6V NiMh powerless battery.

I got a Blade SR shortly afterwards that had 2.4 ghz radio and 3S lipo.
It shared many of the Blade CP's parts but had a a real frame instead of that CF stick frame the CP had.

The heads are no good on those helis or else I'd still use them some today.

The pitch binds in the head at higher head speeds and will either slam you or rocket you up unexpectedly.