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Old 01-29-2014, 05:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Flybar tech

I've searched the net, most forums out there but did not get any clear info on
the setup and adjusting the flybar ratio and what is considered a high and what a low
ratio..

My RJX 50 has a programmable head and really getting confused trying to set it up.

As i understand correctly most 3D flybar heli's have a ratio 1 degree flybar tilt to
0.7 degree of blade pitch... correct?
So if i have 26 degree of flybar movement each way and take 70% of that i would end
up with 18 degree in blade movement each way... correct?

I can get this setup, but takes away HALF my pitch range in collective and cyclic..WTH?

When i started flying heli's 4 years ago i began with a Trex 600N flybarred which
had little to no ways in changing the characteristics of the ratio's. It just flew but
now i would like something to compare the RJX to.

At the field no one uses B anymore so no go there..


Guys..help

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Old 01-29-2014, 05:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The Avant Auroa build manual has some good information about hole placements.
thats the only MFG manual who I've seen explain anything useful
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Pretty simple really, but I can't quote any numbers.

-Swash to mixer: the outer hole gives you less bell input, the inner gives more.
-Flybar to mixer: there are three holes, closer to center gives the flybar more influence, further out gives less.
-Washout/swash follower to flybar: the outer hole gives you more FB paddle pitch which makes the heli more responsive.

The head on my Fusion 50 was almost identical though it had a few more settings. Question, what kind of setup are you going for?
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Last edited by BaconRaygun; 01-30-2014 at 08:43 AM.. Reason: Mistake corrected
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:19 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u8at711 View Post
The Avant Auroa build manual has some good information about hole placements.
thats the only MFG manual who I've seen explain anything useful
Indeed..! More studying i guess..


Quote:
Originally Posted by BaconRaygun View Post
Pretty simple really, but I can't quote any numbers.

-Swash to mixer: the outer hole gives you less bell input, the inner gives more.
-Flybar to mixer: there are three holes, closer to center gives the flybar more influence, further out gives less.
-Washout/swash follower to flybar: the inner hole gives you more FB paddle pitch which makes the heli more responsive.

The head on my Fusion 50 was almost identical though it had a few more settings. Question, what kind of setup are you going for?
I'm going for a 3D setup with quick cyclic and a nice roll rate..
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:00 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I got some links, you may already have some of these fwiw

http://www.helituning.com/index.php/...explained.html

http://www.w3mh.co.uk/articles/html/csm9-11.htm

http://www.swashplate.co.uk/html/other_helis.html
(manuals)

http://helipilotonline.com/index.php...the-msh-protos
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirolf View Post
I'm going for a 3D setup with quick cyclic and a nice roll rate..
It looks like you already have the most aggressive setup that is possible with that head. If you want it to be quicker, you may want to peruse other avenues like stiffer dampers, different blades and different paddles.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaconRaygun View Post
It looks like you already have the most aggressive setup that is possible with that head. If you want it to be quicker, you may want to peruse other avenues like stiffer dampers, different blades and different paddles.
Seriously..?
Then i'll just have to wait untill i get my Superstubz paddles in the mail. That should make
a big difference then.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I mean I am not 100% sure. From the picture it doesn't seem like you can move the ball-stud in or out on the flybar, but the angle makes it uncertain.

The head on my Fusion 50 was similar, but I was also able to adjust the flybar cage and position of the linkage coming off the flybar. If the picture shows all adjustments then you are at the most aggressive setting.

I used basically the same setup as you did for a while but ended up adjusting the bell/hiller ratio a bit to give the flybar a little more authority because I flew mostly big air and F3C maneuvers.



I ended up switching to the center hole for the flybar>mixer linkage. If you can get you hands on this head (there is a 50 and 90 version) you will not be disappointed!
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Those Superstubbs are amazing. Although it has been a while, my guess is that they will seriously increase your control response.
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I got my superstubz in the mail today and they are seriously lighter then the bricks
that are on now. Sadly i won't be able to test 'em caus i need a new main shaft and
need it fabricated.

So far i like the quality of the head and if had any cash laying around i would upgrade
it to a 8mm spindle head.

Would you believe this head is equipped with a 6mm feathering shaft..? :s
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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shaft size matters to a point , but so does quality of material used. a higher quality material can be used as a smaller diameter and obtain the same strength values.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Thread moved?
NOT cool!

Subject is not just RJX related but general flybar talk... now this will further go unnoticed.
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
 

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Do you have a picture?
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
 

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Everything u need to know should be right here http://www.rjx-hobby.com/manual
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Old 03-04-2014, 04:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hi Bobby..

a picture of the head you mean?

To this day i haven't had a chance to get it in the air again cause of weather and work.
A few weeks i bought the 8mm head upgrade kit on eBay for a steal.. new and sealed.

Still have to mount it but hope to get some testruns next weekend
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