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Natethagreat · 01-12-2016, 10:54 AM

Hello, Im trying to speed up my mcx as far as forwards flight and responsiveness. Ive cut the stock flybar to 2.5" and it is better. A little less stable but its rock solid and seems to be able to handle the transition, but ive got a problem. Hopefully someone could help...

Ive got the mcx2,swashplate with longer ball lengths and the sensitivity is where I like it. My issue is when im in forward flight and release the stick it stops almost on a dime. I know it is because its such a small.and lightweight heli, and my flybar is acting to fast. It has almost an instant halt, is there anything I can do to lessen this effect, such as longer bar with less weight? Im using normal weights but wondering if less weight is the right idea.

Ive also cut half an inch from both shafts, which brings the blades closer to one another. Just an experiment, with surprizing results. The helicopter is solid as a rock but suffers more from ground effects. Swirls a little when I get close to the ground.

Anyway, im still new to helicopters and wondering opinions. Does the angle of the flybar control how fast it self corrects itself, or is that a function of length and weight mass on the flybar... If possible I prefer it to naturally slow down, slightly slower in nature than a complete halt. It reminds me of a horse locking up from running and tends to lose altitude. Its the pendulum effect, I suppose.

Thank you for any insight, advice or opinions given

MariaFan · 01-13-2016, 04:19 PM

I'm not sure about the fly-bar items, but you could try more Expo in your DR settings. That way the stick wouldn't be so sensitive around the middle.
Interesting idea on lowering the blades. May have to try that.

Pfloyd · 01-14-2016, 09:55 AM

All the small coaxs do that. (stop on a dime). Has to do with the gyro.

All my flybared helis do that. MCX, MCX2, MSR, 120SR.

jebie79 · 05-26-2016, 09:12 AM

Its been a few years but i tried quite a few mods. The best luck i had was making the space between the top and bottom blades bigger. I made new shafts 5mm longer than stock and lowered the swashplate 5mm. This thing gets its stability from the top blades pushing down on the lower ones so the bigger the gap between the blades means less force pushing down on the lower blades.

01-12-2016, 10:54 AM	#1 (permalink)
Natethagreat Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2016	Extreme modifications on blade mcx Hello, Im trying to speed up my mcx as far as forwards flight and responsiveness. Ive cut the stock flybar to 2.5" and it is better. A little less stable but its rock solid and seems to be able to handle the transition, but ive got a problem. Hopefully someone could help... Ive got the mcx2,swashplate with longer ball lengths and the sensitivity is where I like it. My issue is when im in forward flight and release the stick it stops almost on a dime. I know it is because its such a small.and lightweight heli, and my flybar is acting to fast. It has almost an instant halt, is there anything I can do to lessen this effect, such as longer bar with less weight? Im using normal weights but wondering if less weight is the right idea. Ive also cut half an inch from both shafts, which brings the blades closer to one another. Just an experiment, with surprizing results. The helicopter is solid as a rock but suffers more from ground effects. Swirls a little when I get close to the ground. Anyway, im still new to helicopters and wondering opinions. Does the angle of the flybar control how fast it self corrects itself, or is that a function of length and weight mass on the flybar... If possible I prefer it to naturally slow down, slightly slower in nature than a complete halt. It reminds me of a horse locking up from running and tends to lose altitude. Its the pendulum effect, I suppose. Thank you for any insight, advice or opinions given

01-13-2016, 04:19 PM	#2 (permalink)
MariaFan Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Ohio	I'm not sure about the fly-bar items, but you could try more Expo in your DR settings. That way the stick wouldn't be so sensitive around the middle. Interesting idea on lowering the blades. May have to try that. __________________ . . I have to turn the music down while driving so I can see better.

01-14-2016, 09:55 AM	#3 (permalink)
Pfloyd Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2010	All the small coaxs do that. (stop on a dime). Has to do with the gyro. All my flybared helis do that. MCX, MCX2, MSR, 120SR. __________________ Syma S107-Syma S109-Syma X8C-Syma X8G-Syma X5HC-Syma X5HW-Mini Orion-ProtoX-Syma X5C-1 USAF RETIRED 1968-1988 Vietnam Veteran Last edited by Pfloyd; 01-14-2016 at 05:12 PM..

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05-26-2016, 09:12 AM	#4 (permalink)
jebie79 Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2014	Its been a few years but i tried quite a few mods. The best luck i had was making the space between the top and bottom blades bigger. I made new shafts 5mm longer than stock and lowered the swashplate 5mm. This thing gets its stability from the top blades pushing down on the lower ones so the bigger the gap between the blades means less force pushing down on the lower blades.

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