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Jason O'Connell · 11-20-2011, 09:01 AM

After seeing all the posts on this subject I decided to just shoot a video so people can see an easy way to remove the flanged bearings from their Y-Arm. The process is verry easy but I know from experience that something can seem easier if you see someone else do it first.

Sorry for the "Happy Painter" voice but it was late, the family was sleeping, and I did not want to wake them.

Thats it. I hope this vid helps someone. Let me know what you think.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPVyT8YShdI[/ame]

Larry227 · 11-20-2011, 01:55 PM

Thanks for that!

AnTi Taco · 11-20-2011, 02:47 PM

Bob O · 11-20-2011, 02:53 PM

Very nice!

TallPaul · 11-20-2011, 03:05 PM

Thanks Jason.

sly the dogman · 11-20-2011, 03:12 PM

Someone should sticky this with Mr Cook's helpfull Compass Team Tips video.

TheBum · 11-20-2011, 08:44 PM

Very nice. I had never thought of grabbing the brass tube from the side and pushing. I suspect the tube would get pretty scratched up, but it shouldn't be damaged structurally.

I have a temperature controlled soldering iron, so I'd have to figure out what temperature to use. According to Wikipedia, the melting point of Delrin is 175C/347F. The shaft of the iron will be cooler than the tip, so 300-350F should be good.

TheBum · 11-21-2011, 02:37 PM

I added a link to this thread in the Compass Build Videos & Technical Reference sticky.

skunkworx · 11-22-2011, 10:13 AM

Yep, just enough to get the metal to loosen up should be good. I still do it somewhat barbarian style and smack them out with my 2.5mm wrench. It's probably Hell on the bearings, but usually if they're getting pulled to begin with, they're already toast. Mine have lived through some pretty horrific abuse so far though.

Ah Clem · 11-22-2011, 10:33 AM

Beautifully done, Barnstormer!

stark · 11-22-2011, 04:13 PM

Very nice, thanks for the video

Jason O'Connell · 11-22-2011, 08:33 PM

Thanks for all the kind words guys!

TheBum · 11-22-2011, 09:15 PM

I tried the method this evening, but I couldn't get the bearings to budge. It could have been just an extra tight yoke because the new bearings wouldn't go in very easily either.

Jason O'Connell · 11-23-2011, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBum

I tried the method this evening, but I couldn't get the bearings to budge. It could have been just an extra tight yoke because the new bearings wouldn't go in very easily either.

There could be a few reasons for this:

1) The yoke may be machined tight - as you said.

2) If the part has been in a crash a small tweak could cause this.

3) If bearings have been pushed or pried out of the part before, or if the bearings were
starting to go bad they could "chatter" or "spin" resulting in scoring in
the bearing bore. This can cause problems with removing any size bearing.

4) The part was over or under heated.

Who knows..... it always works for me.

Ah Clem · 11-23-2011, 12:48 PM

I have done this four or five times. Each time, it worked out about like it did for Barnstormer in the video (some of the bearings were a bit tougher than others-I did learn to get a bowl to catch them in, as they can go flying).

I have a Bar-B-Que lighter that burns like a torch, as opposed to a normal lighter, that allows me to get the aluminum heated fairly quickly and usually before the bearing gets to warm and also expands.

I use an arbor press to press the bearings back in.

The bearings need to be a tight fit in the yokes. If they were too loose, and started to wear in the aluminum (like the bearings in some other brands mixing arms), it could cause some fairly impressive vibration, I would think.

JCLs · 01-09-2012, 09:28 PM

Question: which way do bearings go in or does it matter?

Larry227 · 01-09-2012, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCLs

Question: which way do bearings go in or does it matter?

They are flanged bearings and the flange goes to the outside of the yolk on both ends.

JCLs · 01-09-2012, 10:44 PM

Yep, you beat me. I was coming back to post I got them off using soldering iron to heat a little and just using needle nose pliers as in video and pressed back on with small arbor press no problem. Was leery of taking them off not knowing for sure but was obvious once they were off. Thanks!

dunkonu23 · 01-10-2012, 06:21 AM

I used this method the other day. It worked fine for me! Thanks, man!

Scott

Jason O'Connell · 01-10-2012, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23

I used this method the other day. It worked fine for me! Thanks, man!

Scott

Your welcome Scott! I am glad it helped.

Jason

11-20-2011, 09:01 AM	#1 (permalink)
Jason O'Connell Formerly BarnStormer Join Date: Aug 2008	How to Remove the Y-Arm Bearings On a Compass FBL Head (Video) After seeing all the posts on this subject I decided to just shoot a video so people can see an easy way to remove the flanged bearings from their Y-Arm. The process is verry easy but I know from experience that something can seem easier if you see someone else do it first. Sorry for the "Happy Painter" voice but it was late, the family was sleeping, and I did not want to wake them. Thats it. I hope this vid helps someone. Let me know what you think. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPVyT8YShdI[/ame] __________________ Scorpion Power Systems Last edited by Jason O'Connell; 11-20-2011 at 09:06 AM.. Reason: typo

11-20-2011, 01:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
Larry227 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2008	Thanks for that! __________________ Trex 700 Pro DFC - Compass 6HV - Vcontrol - Neo #nodroneshere - 104

11-20-2011, 02:47 PM	#3 (permalink)
AnTi Taco Registered Users Join Date: Sep 2010	nice __________________ Compass 7HV 9180/9188 Vbar Compass 6HV 9180/9188 Skookum,4025-630KV Compass 6HV Savox/ 9188, Vbar, Fusion 50 9080/9088 Beast X Velocity 50n 9080/9088 VbarSAB Goblin 9180/9188 Kontronik helijive Coming soon

11-20-2011, 02:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
Bob O Member My HF Map location Join Date: Dec 2008	Very nice! __________________ ):>

11-20-2011, 03:05 PM	#5 (permalink)
TallPaul Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: May 2010	Thanks Jason. __________________ Compass Atom 500 - Passed on to good family 7HV and 6HVU; FLIP-FPV ; most with iKON; Spektrum DX8

11-20-2011, 03:12 PM	#6 (permalink)
sly the dogman Registered Users Join Date: May 2009	Someone should sticky this with Mr Cook's helpfull Compass Team Tips video. __________________ We do accept FB parts for Compass 5.5

11-20-2011, 08:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	Very nice. I had never thought of grabbing the brass tube from the side and pushing. I suspect the tube would get pretty scratched up, but it shouldn't be damaged structurally. I have a temperature controlled soldering iron, so I'd have to figure out what temperature to use. According to Wikipedia, the melting point of Delrin is 175C/347F. The shaft of the iron will be cooler than the tip, so 300-350F should be good. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

11-21-2011, 02:37 PM	#8 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	I added a link to this thread in the Compass Build Videos & Technical Reference sticky. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

11-22-2011, 10:13 AM	#9 (permalink)
skunkworx Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jan 2007	Yep, just enough to get the metal to loosen up should be good. I still do it somewhat barbarian style and smack them out with my 2.5mm wrench. It's probably Hell on the bearings, but usually if they're getting pulled to begin with, they're already toast. Mine have lived through some pretty horrific abuse so far though. __________________ Tim KBDD TEAM PILOT --Si vis pacem, para bellum--

11-22-2011, 10:33 AM	#10 (permalink)
Ah Clem Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2006	Beautifully done, Barnstormer! __________________ KBDD-Team Captain, JR DFA Team Pilot. Forza 450, Forza 600N, Forza 700, Compass 6HV-U, Warp, 7HV,Knight Pro,Knight 3D, Atom, Odin II, 6HV, 3D Plus, Knight 50, Chronos, Velos, Steam 550 and 600, OMP M2 (and anything else I can get my hands on...).

11-22-2011, 04:13 PM	#11 (permalink)
stark Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2011	Very nice, thanks for the video __________________ -roger OriginHobbies.com OMPHOBBY RADIOMASTER GAUI MSH-Brain2 SCORPION dealer (FI/EU)

11-22-2011, 08:33 PM	#12 (permalink)
Jason O'Connell Formerly BarnStormer Thread Starter Join Date: Aug 2008	Thanks for all the kind words guys! __________________ Scorpion Power Systems

11-22-2011, 09:15 PM	#13 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	I tried the method this evening, but I couldn't get the bearings to budge. It could have been just an extra tight yoke because the new bearings wouldn't go in very easily either. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

11-23-2011, 12:48 PM	#15 (permalink)
Ah Clem Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2006	I have done this four or five times. Each time, it worked out about like it did for Barnstormer in the video (some of the bearings were a bit tougher than others-I did learn to get a bowl to catch them in, as they can go flying). I have a Bar-B-Que lighter that burns like a torch, as opposed to a normal lighter, that allows me to get the aluminum heated fairly quickly and usually before the bearing gets to warm and also expands. I use an arbor press to press the bearings back in. The bearings need to be a tight fit in the yokes. If they were too loose, and started to wear in the aluminum (like the bearings in some other brands mixing arms), it could cause some fairly impressive vibration, I would think. __________________ KBDD-Team Captain, JR DFA Team Pilot. Forza 450, Forza 600N, Forza 700, Compass 6HV-U, Warp, 7HV,Knight Pro,Knight 3D, Atom, Odin II, 6HV, 3D Plus, Knight 50, Chronos, Velos, Steam 550 and 600, OMP M2 (and anything else I can get my hands on...).

01-09-2012, 09:28 PM	#16 (permalink)
JCLs Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2010	Question: which way do bearings go in or does it matter? __________________ AMA 954079. KG5BBF

01-09-2012, 10:44 PM	#18 (permalink)
JCLs Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2010	Yep, you beat me. I was coming back to post I got them off using soldering iron to heat a little and just using needle nose pliers as in video and pressed back on with small arbor press no problem. Was leery of taking them off not knowing for sure but was obvious once they were off. Thanks! __________________ AMA 954079. KG5BBF

01-10-2012, 06:21 AM	#19 (permalink)
dunkonu23 Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Michigan, slightly Northeast of Hell	I used this method the other day. It worked fine for me! Thanks, man! Scott __________________ *Spartan Vortex Inside,Team Scorpion* KBDD Team Pilot ):>

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