600L stock gov setup for fixed rpm help

[nowler]

hi guys

pretty much near the end of the build and am planning on using the gov in the cc esc that came with the kit. but, i've never used one before and i'd just like to steal someone's settings with the same setup that works?

if anyone would be willing to tell me there settings for fixed rpm gov mode, i'd be very grateful.

and this may be a dumb question, but i'm assuming i calibrate the endpoints as per usual for cc esc's?

any help much appreciated

derek

[ticedoff8]

I would recommend investing $22 in the Castle Link USB adapter.
It makes setup so much easier it is like night & day.
And, you can update the software in the ESC quite easily. Most likely, the version in the ESC is old already

Otherwise, you have to follow the beep beep menu.
I never even tried that before.

Take a look at this link for some suggested setups: http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...eli_files.html

[RC/DC_5000]

I got my 600L on pure beast mode after months of tuning. I use the Align 3300 50C and when you break them in- they punch hard. Good batteries will make these settings shine.

2400 Set RPM mode
4 degrees timing
12 PWM
11.7 degrees collective pitch (more will bog it)
Governor Gain 15-17 (be careful with it)

I've been absolutely ripping on this thing and have had zero TT gear problems. No stripping and not even slight chalk wear. Its been nearly perfect. Just don't get careless with it like a 450. Its got way too much torque to be beating it to death. It pays to fly it smooth and powerful.

You can still smack it and bark the blades big time... but make the transitions smooth. Let the blades engage before you really lay into the pitch. Don't just slam on the collective like a simulator.

[FiLazer88]

I have some experience with gear stripping as well. I now run 2400 and similar timing to RC/DC, but I turned the governor gain all the way down to 4 as a friend recommended to me, and so far I haven't had any wear and it flies smooth. If you have the coin it might also be worth getting KDE upgrade hit for the tail. It comes with aluminum outer braces for the tail gearbox to help with vibrations and shims so you can get a tight mesh for the front torque tube gears, you DON"T want these gears to be loose, this is where failure is common in the 600.

I also recommended no more than 11.5 degrees of pitch, when running 2400, you don't need much pitch. Good luck!

[TR450ZS]

Originally Posted by FiLazer88

I have some experience with gear stripping as well. I now run 2400 and similar timing to RC/DC, but I turned the governor gain all the way down to 4 as a friend recommended to me, and so far I haven't had any wear and it flies smooth. If you have the coin it might also be worth getting KDE upgrade hit for the tail. It comes with aluminum outer braces for the tail gearbox to help with vibrations and shims so you can get a tight mesh for the front torque tube gears, you DON"T want these gears to be loose, this is where failure is common in the 600.

I also recommended no more than 11.5 degrees of pitch, when running 2400, you don't need much pitch. Good luck!

Can you post a link to this KDE part you are refering to? I see nothing like it on their website.

[Smoggie]

As already noted, the most important thing is to keep the governor gain low. I use no higher than 14. I tried higher in the early days and blew out my TT bevel gears. When you know what to listen for you can hear when the gov gain is too high, you get a 'chirping' sound when under heavy collective load.
I also use the highest PWM setting available (24kHz) as this seems to help with smoothing out the governing (or it may be just in my head!).

PS... you can do the same mod as the KDE kit for a few pennies. All that's needed is a few shim washers like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3Racing-St.../351196114732? (the 12mm ones). They fit behind the front TT bevel gear to tighten up it's mesh. You can also slot the holes in the frames for the boom mount to allow it to slide forward a fraction, this allows the auto gear mesh to be adjusted, though that's usually less of an issue.
The alloy side plates that you get with the KDE kit dont do anything other than cover the enlarged holes that the kit instructions asks you to drill out (better just slot them slightly IMHO)

Anyway, this is the KDE kit: http://www.kdedirect.com/collections...t550-600-utbcs

Tis is the KDE instruction sheet which also shows where the shims i mentioned need to go: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/04...am_LR.pdf?7417 You can see from the instructions that to keep things easy KDE just drill out the frame holes, but slotting them is a piece of cake and then negates the need for the metal side frames.

[RC/DC_5000]

I absolutely agree the higher PWM smooths out the governor. The on/off cycle is faster and the governor has a better sense of whats going on with the motor. When the Castle senses an unloading head- it has strange problems turning the throttle way down and then way up. But the higher PWM helps this transition a lot.

But the downside is that you could lose some power and torque. Some motors don't like a high PWM. I'm agreeing, just commenting on what I've noticed in flight and with the logs.

[FiLazer88]

You also want to be very careful with true gears. I had a lot of main gear wobble and I think this caused vibrations and problems with the front torque tube gears. Watch the gears careful while you spin the head slowly by hand, if there is a lot of wobble, try adjusting your screws on the main gear hub to get them even, if not, you may want to try a new hub, or new gears.

[ticedoff8]

HiJack in progress

[FiLazer88]

Originally Posted by ticedoff8

HiJack in progress

How is offering some advice on a problem that happens with almost all 600L front gears a hijack? I wish someone had told me when I finished my build, its probably the #1 flaw with this design.

[Gladius]

And it also directly relates to what governor gain you can use.

[RC/DC_5000]

Have to recant my 12 degree pitch limit idea on the 750mx. I bought new Align 50C batteries recently and they are pretty slow to break in. They are just starting to open up and unleash after 10-15 cycles.

Well with the 750mx getting fed properly.. I keep turning down my governor gain and turning up the collective pitch. This thing is a monster motor! I've turned up the pitch to 13 degrees so far. It eats it up like nothing.

This is a scary motor in a 600 if you get it setup with awesome batteries. It launches up into the sky with authority. The sound of the blades when its cranking an inverted loop punch out... just wide open... Crazy.

Waaaaaaaaaaa (reverberating)

I'm liking this motor so much for its torque... I might put the black 750mx in my Goblin 630.

[nowler]

cheers for the input guys. i've been running flat throttle curves up till now. a brave friend tacho'd it with me and iu1 was 2300 and iu2 was 2490 so i wasn't shy of headspeed anyways.

i'm gonna shim the front tt bevel gear as its a little slack on my 600dfc. i think the main shaft shim washers from my 700l will fit this..... the 600l is nuce and snug as it is.

gov settings programmed, just need the weather to settle a bit now!

thanks once again. i'll keep you updated!

[RC/DC_5000]

I also bumped my timing up to 10 degrees. This helps reduce some of the extreme torque of the 750mx. I think less of that extreme torque is easier on the TT gears.

It also helps it to get into its powerband quicker in governor mode too. There's less lag until the real power hits. The more you challenge the 750mx.. the more it will respond with its real capabilities. Lets not forget that this a motor than can slam a 700 around like nothing.

This helicopter is epic. Everyone should have one.