New 6s Setup

[jmtyndall]

Hey guys, I'm doing the governor store programming on my YGE ESC now that my heli is freshly rebuilt. It looks like I am supposed to set the cell count. I suspect this is only done such that LVC is calculated correctly. With that said, I would sometimes like to fly this heli on 3s "for teh lulz" and I'm wondering, if I set the LVC to 6s, then a fully charged 3s is going to trigger LVC right?

What's the right way to go about doing this?

[Russell Harding]

Should be fine if you leave it on auto.

Only risk is if you plug in an EXTREMELY discharged 6s (3.5V resting) pack, it may detect as a full 5S.

Either way, it beeps the number of detected cells at startup, so there is a second chance to catch it.

[jmtyndall]

I thought it only auto detects 2s/3s?

[Aryemis]

Originally Posted by jmtyndall

I thought it only auto detects 2s/3s?

I run auto detect on my 5 and 6S setup and it works fine.

Auto-detect works pretty well up to 6S, it's more for 10 or 12S setup that you need to input the correct number of cells, else you have alot more risk of getting an incorrect LVC.

[jmtyndall]

10-4, all I have to do then is redo the gov store setup and endpoints since I have a new tx

[jmtyndall]

One more question. I know y-support alignment is critical for bearing life and vibration reduction. I heard somewhere that some people leave the y-support slightly loose, or just loose enough to move when pushed but not so loose that it wiggles all over the place. Then they spool up for a minute, or put a gentle flight on the heli in order to allow the support to shift into position.

Would it be advisable to leave my y-support loose, do a quick 3s flight to let everything align, then tighten it all down before flying on 6s? Or is there another method

[Aryemis]

The way I always did it was setting the belt tension, spinning the motor a bit by hand, and the tightening the Y screws.

Can't say my bearings lasted all that long though (I did crash alot at the time though).
I have also heard spinning the motor with power helps, though I can't really see how.

I have to say I don't use a counterbearing at all since I switched over to a warp pinion like 150 flights ago, haven't had an issue yet.

Not sure if you can use the stock pinion without the Y and not have it get out of place though.

[jmtyndall]

Im using the new owb pinion. Nothing holds it down on the shaft besides the support?

[Aryemis]

Originally Posted by jmtyndall

Im using the new owb pinion. Nothing holds it down on the shaft besides the support?

Well there doesn't seem to be. Though I guess in flight it's pretty much stuck in place by the OWB.
Could only be an issue with autos though (particularly inverted ones, but you just dont do those with a mini prôtos).

I think I would end up using a little green loctite to get the inner racing of the upper pinion bearing fixed onto the shaft so it won't budge, not much forces to make it move anyway.

[Russell Harding]

I tighten the motor mount. Then spin a bit by hand. Then I hold my thumb gently over the y support bearing and tighten the y support down, front screws first. I run as loose tension as I can get away with... It feels somewhere between 'light' and 'loose' up front, and just tight enough to transfer tension from one finger to another when holding both sides at the back.

And I have landed one inverted auto on the mini... And crashed the other two.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jmtyndall]

I had some tail "ringing" running mine pretty loose. I now have it set so that if I take my 1.5mm hex, and instead of pushing "in" at the tension check point, I push down. I have my tension so that pushing down here will not remove the belt from the main gear. Pushing in the belt is quite squishy but won't touch the other side at the back, and the front is as close to that as I can get it.

I never quite understand the "2-3mm of give" reccomendations because it's too dependent on how firm your push is.

What pwm do you run? I calculate 14k

[Aryemis]

All my scorpion motors (2221 and 2520) ran fine with 8pwm, so never bothered changing it.

[dedados]

Isn't there an option for "out-runner motor" on the yge? I use that on my ice lite 50.

[jmtyndall]

Castle esc use that nomenclature for the "adjustable pwm" function on their controllers. Yge runs fixed.

So for 3s the calculation comes out to 7khz. Default from msh is 9khz. Clear as mud huh?

Im going to run default for now and adjust based on motor temps

[Russell Harding]

I have always used 'auto' timing on my YGE60 and MSH motors. Run hot but not crazy.