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Old 12-09-2010, 02:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My RJX 90ep FBL heli



watch the clouds reflecting on the head :-)
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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hi,

very cool heli with shiny head! :-)
can you tell us something about your motor, lipo, servos, FBL-sys?

i think that's an CC ESC with xx-amp, let me know something special about your BEC, what kind of it is it?

how may lipo-cells do you use --> motor=scorpion 4035-500? what flight style?

i'm building an 90EP too and i just want to know EVERYTHING because i don't want to spend money twice :-)

my prefered ESC, motor, servos and FBL-sys is written down in the build thread. but i always think about alternatives.

greetings from germany

EDIT: SORRY, i didn't recognize that you already postet your setup in the build thread. sorry about that.
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Last edited by garfield2412; 12-10-2010 at 07:02 AM.. Reason: my fault, he posted already his setup
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:36 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Hi,
my setup is My setup :
motor -scorpion 4035-500
esc -Castle creations Phoenix ice 85 HV
swash -Savox 1257 TG
rudder -Futaba BLS 251 with stepdown
FBL -Beastx
bec -Castle creations BEC Pro
lipo -12S 4000mAh 30C

i'm still a 3D-less pilot still learning my basic skills

have changed the main gear to 100T pinion it's beter to fit with the 500Kv scorpion motor.
+ i had to ream the ballinks they where to tighten and it give stress to my servo's

I do not yet have a solution for the battery tray, it's very narrow even with 4000mAh lipo's.

do you have TT or Belt?
pics?





Quote:
Originally Posted by garfield2412 View Post
hi,

very cool heli with shiny head! :-)
can you tell us something about your motor, lipo, servos, FBL-sys?

i think that's an CC ESC with xx-amp, let me know something special about your BEC, what kind of it is it?

how may lipo-cells do you use --> motor=scorpion 4035-500? what flight style?

i'm building an 90EP too and i just want to know EVERYTHING because i don't want to spend money twice :-)

my prefered ESC, motor, servos and FBL-sys is written down in the build thread. but i always think about alternatives.

greetings from germany

EDIT: SORRY, i didn't recognize that you already postet your setup in the build thread. sorry about that.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:24 AM   #4 (permalink)
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hi,
my pics are in the build-thread.
i'm still building the heli.
i heard about the 100T gear and 4035-500, i guess you are right. more efficient than 90-93T.
i have an belt 90EP, but i'll get some spare parts from an TT, so i can change it maybe in the future.

i'm not an 3D-specialist too, but i have learned to maiden loops (forward and backward) and rolls, turns, FF, inverted hover, inverted flight and other basics with my roxxter 33SE very well.

ball-links seem to be very strong, reaming may be a good idea.

do you have an backup eneloop for you BEC?
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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sorry, i didn't saw the users name on the build pics :-)

what do you mean with eneloop on my BEC?
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Old 12-11-2010, 03:43 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arroxfive View Post
sorry, i didn't saw the users name on the build pics :-)

what do you mean with eneloop on my BEC?

oh sorry i meant: do you have an extra battery in case of an BEC-fault?
i use an eneloop for this in my Roxxter 33SE because i had some problems with my BEC (even with a jive !)
eneloops are special cells like this
these cells have a low self-discarge and they automaticaly charge by my BEC.
so the are a buffer-bat.
i only check their condition all 2 months

the problems on my BEC were 2 shutdowns/restart of my microbeast when i tried an tic-toc. 2-3sec. no reaction on cyclic. thank good that my altitude was high.
maybee there were static problems with my tail too, grounded it once more.
so 12 EUROS for an eneloop isn't as expensive as an new heli, so i don't worry.
safe is better :-) kontronik recomends this buffer-bat too
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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looks like a good idea, look in to it....never used it before, the 2 connectors from my bec are connected to the RX en the Beastx
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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BeastX finally arrived......installing on Friday Maiden on Saturday

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Old 01-10-2011, 01:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arroxfive View Post
I do not yet have a solution for the battery tray, it's very narrow even with 4000mAh lipo's.
hi arroxfive,

can you make a picture of your battery tray and the installed lipos?
i'd like to order some batterys and i'm not sure if 4000, 4500 or 5000... thought about 4500 and 5000 (turnigy nano-tec) ... but i'd like to know how much space there is between the sides and between the top :-)
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I fly a RJX50 size FBL with a 4025 550KV scorpion.
I CAN fit 2X turnigy 5000mAh lipo's ( 30 and 40C) in the tray, the 50 size with a 4035 however can NOT.
The dimentions of the scorpion are to large. the underside of the motor will touch the lipo's.
She does get heavy and 4000mAh is prob. a better choice.
When using 12S you will need to change the stock main gear ( 90T) and change to 100T.
I had 2250rmp at 70% throttle. I still have to do head speed check with the 100T but i'm hoping i will be able to go to 85% at 2000rpm.

Regards,

Ermax
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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puhhh.. thats close :-(
4025 is 51.5 mm long
4035 is 61.5mm long

so i don't have much space... you are right, the pics of arroxfive clearly show that.
if i measure from the bottom of the battery tray to the bottom line of the battery frame on the upper side, i'll get 49-50mm.
but i think these cells will fit (4500) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11933
height is 44mm if i put them "flat" in the tray..
and those cells won't fit...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14990
they are 50mm, so they are too big, you are right.
those cells will maybe fit but much to close?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11937

I guess it's the same Tray-Size for 90 and 50 RJX in case of same parts (expected the boom and Blades)

changed the main-gear allready to 100T --> thats Stock for an 2010 RJX EP90
2000 for 85% is a good choice and i hope i can do this with my setup.

THX for your help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ermax View Post
I fly a RJX50 size FBL with a 4025 550KV scorpion.
I CAN fit 2X turnigy 5000mAh lipo's ( 30 and 40C) in the tray, the 50 size with a 4035 however can NOT.
The dimentions of the scorpion are to large. the underside of the motor will touch the lipo's.
She does get heavy and 4000mAh is prob. a better choice.
When using 12S you will need to change the stock main gear ( 90T) and change to 100T.
I had 2250rmp at 70% throttle. I still have to do head speed check with the 100T but i'm hoping i will be able to go to 85% at 2000rpm.

Regards,

Ermax
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have just noticed a problem when using the 100T gear on the 50 size RJX.
When going full negative and at the same time full roll the control arm touches the main gear.
So i prob will have to reduce the upper inside of the main gear for about 2 mm.

You have to reduce the maingeat to 11mm just like the original one. Else you will have a problem.
An other solution is to trim down the inside of the main gear to about 2 mm from the teeth for about 3 mm deep.

Last edited by Ermax; 01-16-2011 at 04:09 PM..
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Old 01-12-2011, 06:31 AM   #13 (permalink)
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for the lipotray problem

look at the pictures at post #71 here

now i'm using 4000mAh 2x6s but when i'm getting 5000mAh lipo's i think i'm gonna try this

just by some extra bottomplates
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:22 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ermax View Post
I have just noticed a problem when using the 100T gear on the 50 size RJX.
When going full negative and at the same time full roll the control arm touches the main gear.
So i prob will have to reduce the upper inside of the main gear for about 2 mm.

You have to reduce the maingeat to 11mm just like the original one. Else you will have a problem.
An other solution is to trim down the inside of the main gear to about 2 mm from the teeth for about 3 mm deep.

hi,

did my setup yesterday. figured out the same problem.
problem is caused if you go full negative pitch (-13deg) and push elevator forward or/and aileron left/right. aileron/elevator is max +/-11.5deg at my setup. thats max mechanical possible before you hit the maingear. the elevator lever also hits the main gear in some situations!

how did you trim down the inside 3mm deep?? thats not easy.

i also thought about -13 deg of pitch.. thats a lot for sports flying but if i'm going into more 3D i'll need that. i can do two back flip's/rainbows and i remember that i need full neg pitch with my roxxter when doing this. so i'll need an soloution for that.
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Old 01-17-2011, 01:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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talked to ART Modellsport (distributor of RJX in germany).
they told me they flew 17 deg. pitch without problems with the 100T maingear.

do they mean 17degrees including the cyclic value or collective only??
asked them this question and waiting for an answer.
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:02 AM   #16 (permalink)
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The problem with the 100T is that no less than 14mm thick. That is actually meant for 90. So the top of the main gear is 3mm higher. If I use the microbeast so there's no binding, I only 7 degrees which is obviously too little (this at 11.5 degrees negative).

I milled just a big slot in the main gear where the ballink can walk into. Now I get 10.5 degrees -11.5 cyclic and collective with no binding anywhere











I have the main gear with one-way and everything on a spare main shaft inserted, which I've put down in a drill, drill clamped in a vise.

Then I put this router on my dremel:


Then quietly milling while drill is running, went perfectly
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Last edited by dieter; 01-19-2011 at 06:09 AM..
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:44 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieter View Post
The problem with the 100T is that no less than 14mm thick. That is actually meant for 90. So the top of the main gear is 3mm higher. If I use the microbeast so there's no binding, I only 7 degrees which is obviously too little (this at 11.5 degrees negative).

I milled just a big slot in the main gear where the ballink can walk into. Now I get 10.5 degrees -11.5 cyclic and collective with no binding anywhere

Then quietly milling while drill is running, went perfectly
DAMM, good work and very good idea!
i'll try this the next day's!
thank you very much for the awsame pic's
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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No problem man, keep us posted
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Old 01-25-2011, 05:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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This is my log with 10T pinion and 100T maingear RPM wise.
TC is at 87.5 85 82.5 80 82.5 85 87.5

I start out at arround 2200 RPM and end up with 2050 something.
About 6.30 min flight with 4000 mAh 6S
38% left in pack.
Lots of power in this setup.

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Old 01-26-2011, 11:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ermax View Post
This is my log with 10T pinion and 100T maingear RPM wise.
TC is at 87.5 85 82.5 80 82.5 85 87.5

I start out at arround 2200 RPM and end up with 2050 something.
About 6.30 min flight with 4000 mAh 6S
38% left in pack.
Lots of power in this setup.
yeah, that sounds great!
you fly 6s? what motor? you wrote about an 4025-550 a some time ago? no, think i mexed something up, with 6s and 550 you cant get that HS...?
whats your setup for your X50EP?
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