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Old 11-12-2015, 11:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Bellcrank washers necesarry?

Do the 3x8 washers on the cyclic bellcranks serve a purpose that I'm not aware of? I noticed that they seem to cause additional drag in the bellcranks (they are the same size as bearings and come into contact with the outer ring)

With smaller washers or with the washers completely removed (i.e. just the screw holding the bellcrank on the end of the shaft) the bellcrank arms turn much more freely, is there a reason I shouldn't do this?
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:18 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I had this issue too. The problem is that the bell crank shaft is marginally too short. If you sand the washers so they're slightly thinner you'll be good to go.
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Old 11-21-2015, 12:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlaneHazza View Post
I had this issue too. The problem is that the bell crank shaft is marginally too short. If you sand the washers so they're slightly thinner you'll be good to go.
That's not the problem, there's actually tiny amount of lateral play in the shaft (around 0.05mm) The problem is that the stock 3x8 washer are exactly the same diameter as the bellcrank arm bearings and touch the outer rim of said bearings which causes drag on the arms. Note that I didn't say binding, it's still smooth, but draggy.

Washer thickness should not matter at all because the bottom of the washer is flush with end the shaft no matter how thick it is.

I put aluminum C washers on which are 7mm in diameter and about 1mm thick. I also found that these washers are a perfect fit in the outside track on the motor mount and work better than the stock steel washers. They fit the track perfectly and grip the aluminum better, they also won't scar up the surface or bow in the middle like a plain washer.



I also replaced the steel washers on the screws that hold the motor mound to the center block with Castle type aluminum cone washers. Again they won't deform or scar the aluminum and they grip better.
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