About to buy an XTREME and need some help

[HorizonHobbyFreak]

So I have a Blade 700x, the tail gears have stripped 9 times mid flight. So I hate it's living guts now. After the 8th I said that I'd buy a new heli next time it stripped... So far I've decided on mikado Logo 700XX combo with BK servos. Anything I should know about? Any. Mods to do whole bundling. Tips? Anything would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[rcmarty]

Not any mods to do on the build , very well thought out and engineered machine.

You will need to take a little time to setup tail gear mesh, simple procedure.

Other than that it's one solid heli , beat on it to your hearts content.

Stock combo works good also. I read a post about the newly released heli motor combo.
If you go for the heli motor combo then add the esc and vbar you save $150

Martin

[EEngineer]

So, you're finally coming over from the "dark side".....

Kick it to the curb, and move on....you'll be glad you did.....

I got the Mikado bundle, but used MKS X8 servos, rather than BKs(my preference).

Also substituted a Kos 200HV for the "bundled" YGE ESC...for an upgrade "fee"..NP

Get some .5mm and some .3mm Mikado shims(for the main shaft)....which will allow you to precisely align the gears attached to the main shaft.

The most fustrating thing is to get the "pin" in the tail gear.....and the extra sims will get the job done.

With my Logos, after aligning the gears with shims, one then aligns the double-helix pinion to the main gear....we will Mikado-ize you.....

There is some "wear in" of the tail case bevel gears....which is well documented, and is easy as pie to fix...again with a shim..just check play after a few flights.

Get some extra Mikado "edge guard" from Mik USA, for use on the canopy.

And install such around the canopy swash hole....to avoid paint chipping and cracks in the fiberglass canopy...using CA

Now, on a 700XX, get some extra frame spacers...and the fancy washers.

You can "beef" up the upper frame with this...and the frame holes are pre-drilled...make use of that.

I also added a frame spacer to the far aft or the frame...below the tail boom for more strength as the rudder servo could "rotate" under pressure.

If you were to replace the stock links with M3 tunbuckles, you would be amazed at the precision of your rotor head setup...with regards to 0 deg. pitch at mid-stick...imo...I don't even use a pitch gauge anymore for head setup.

And by all means, upgrade your VBar to 5.3 Pro....which will help with the above.

The 5.3 Pro upgrade will also give you capabilty to adjust ail/elev corrections at FP/FN collective....and an R/T vibration analyzer(to isolate issues)....and access to the "flight data recorder" data.

I've had blades.......

I got suckered.....

With my Logos, given that I'm better at building that many are at flying...

I think you are making a wise choice.

Cheers...
PS.....Mikado USA are the best....

[galensk]

Stock combo won't dissapoint you ! its an amazing heli , the most impressive property is its precise steering. I always find it more "listening" to my stick input, compared to my other birds. It doesn't need much maintenance and flies about 5 min on 2050 HS with 2 5000mah packs.

hope this helps
/kurt

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by EEngineer

So, you're finally coming over from the "dark side".....

Kick it to the curb, and move on....you'll be glad you did.....

I got the Mikado bundle, but used MKS X8 servos, rather than BKs(my preference).

Also substituted a Kos 200HV for the "bundled" YGE ESC...for an upgrade "fee"..NP

.....
There is some "wear in" of the tail case bevel gears....which is well documented, and is easy as pie to fix...again with a shim..just check play after a few flights.

....

PS.....Mikado USA are the best....

What is the part number for the shims to adjust the tail case bevel gears?

Thanks

[rcmarty]

I recall my 700 came with a few spares.

If your out , there are some in with the gear box chassis pin - MIK04520

Martin

[Kevin M.]

Thanks guys. (This is the original person who started the post.)

[EEngineer]

Originally Posted by taosgraveyard

What is the part number for the shims to adjust the tail case bevel gears?

Thanks

Sorry for the delay.

I couldn't find them on the site.....perhaps they're on the German site.

I know they exist, as I got a set for my 800XX this January.

They have 0.5mm and 0.2(or 0.3mm..I forget) sets.

Having built six 600SXs, an 700XX, and now an 800XX, that's a primary component of my "bill of materials"(BOM) when I submit the BOM to Mikado USA(and previously to RH).

For me, it seems as if the Logo manual describes the "initial" shim orientation.

But, I've always had to substitute the number and thicknesses to get my setup to my satisfaction.

I ensure that the "double helix" pinion's alignment is "dead on" with the main gear.

Call Gorgin at Mikado USA(toll free...maybe not from Argentina) and ask him about the 2 shim "sets"....he'll know.

I'll call him and find out and then let you know.

And, how about that "Manuuuuuuuuuu Ginobiliiiiiiiiiiiiii" and the Spurs?....LOL

Now the slogan is "The Race for Seis"......ROTFLAMO...

FWIW

[el guapo]

Originally Posted by Kevin M.

Thanks guys. (This is the original person who started the post.)

Kevin, The mods can probably change your name, Without the new account.

I understand that having a handle like horizonhobbyfreak is kinda embarrassing.

[OnTheSnap]

Not to derail the very wise choice to buy a competition grade bullet proof machine, but just curious if you spoke with the Blade guys directly to see if they had any special upgrade parts that may reduce your flight to strip ratio?

BTW - Saw a couple of your strips in Vegas. :-(

[Kevin Mardirossian]

Thank you all for giving your suggestions and tips for the Mikado 700xx. I'm sure all of these tips will help other people long into the future. Unfortunately, I believe I have decided on instead purchasing a KDS Agile 7.2. One of the many reasons is that my local hobby shop, who's owner has helped me very much to get me to where I am now in this hobby, does not carry any Mikado parts, neither does he indorse the use of mikado products for whatever reason. I have decided to follow his advice and get a helicopter which he is more familiar with, and can help me more thoroughly with. Thanks all for your advice, I hope it helps others in the future.

[Kevin Mardirossian]

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap

Not to derail the very wise choice to buy a competition grade bullet proof machine, but just curious if you spoke with the Blade guys directly to see if they had any special upgrade parts that may reduce your flight to strip ratio?

BTW - Saw a couple of your strips in Vegas. :-(

Hi, this is Kevin. Refresh my memory, whats your name?

James Haley has tried his best to help me, and for a while, we thought we had solved the issue. But after this happening 9 times, I've decided to cut my losses, and move on. James did his best to help me, even shipping a "new" tail case to see if it helped, it didn't. The 9th strip was actually a farely easy maneuver. So, on to the next helicopter.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by Kevin Mardirossian

KDS Agile 7.2

That's a bullet-proof machine that flies very well. I've become good friends with one of their demo pilots, so I get to see and hear a lot about them.

Unfortunate that your LHS owner is anti-Mikado but it's not an uncommon view since Mikado generally doesn't allow anyone to carry their products except a few hand-picked distributors for each region. Being able to get parts locally is a really nice benefit, it's one aspect of flying Logos that does make it less convenient than other options. But for many of us the trade-off is well worth it.

[sl4ppy]

My only non-oem suggestion would be to order some extra of the rubber trimming used for the battery bay and lower part of the canopy.. (as described on Part 16/Page 19 of the manual)

This stuff

Apply it to the top of the canopy too around the swashplate. It will prevent cracks from forming where the links to the swash sometimes rub the canopy...

[OnTheSnap]

Originally Posted by Kevin Mardirossian

Thank you all for giving your suggestions and tips for the Mikado 700xx. I'm sure all of these tips will help other people long into the future. Unfortunately, I believe I have decided on instead purchasing a KDS Agile 7.2. One of the many reasons is that my local hobby shop, who's owner has helped me very much to get me to where I am now in this hobby, does not carry any Mikado parts, neither does he indorse the use of mikado products for whatever reason. I have decided to follow his advice and get a helicopter which he is more familiar with, and can help me more thoroughly with. Thanks all for your advice, I hope it helps others in the future.

Great. I've got an Agile too. There is an updated rear tail gear you need to get before you fly it. It's much stronger. I have a problem stripping gears too. It's a great machine so far. On the heavy side but with 710's it's similar to an xxtreme in size and weight.

I don't think we met in Vegas. But my name is Alex..

If you have the option, go belt. If you're really aggressive with the tail you'll be better off.

[TT_insist]

i don't know is just me or everyone has the similar result. i have built 3 logos 1 550sx 2 600 and 700xxt is on its way. sticky follow the installation manual, i always find the "gap" between the spacers and the main gear, or i should say i must put 2 or 3 extra 0.2mm spacer in order to fill the gap. is that normal to everyone? or i did something wrong during the installation?
but i had more than 250 flights on my logo lines, never had a issue from the whole power system.

[dieter]

I also have this gap with all the logo's I have ever built, I suppose it's by design and meant to be.
In the past I shimmed out the endplay, but I don't do this anymore without any negative effects.

[hemp]

A slight bit of play in the main gear is there by design to allow for easier meshing with the pinion. Being a herringbone gear, it has to align vertically very precisely - if you shim out all the play make sure you have correct alignment.

[EEngineer]

Originally Posted by TT_insist

i don't know is just me or everyone has the similar result. i have built 3 logos 1 550sx 2 600 and 700xxt is on its way. sticky follow the installation manual, i always find the "gap" between the spacers and the main gear, or i should say i must put 2 or 3 extra 0.2mm spacer in order to fill the gap. is that normal to everyone? or i did something wrong during the installation?
but i had more than 250 flights on my logo lines, never had a issue from the whole power system.

I've had to do the same on all my Logo 600SX's, 700XX, and 800XX.

FWIW

[galensk]

Originally Posted by hemp

A slight bit of play in the main gear is there by design to allow for easier meshing with the pinion. Being a herringbone gear, it has to align vertically very precisely - if you shim out all the play make sure you have correct alignment.

+1
It is like that by design and allows the main to ride perfectly on the pinion