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Old 09-19-2011, 02:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Any idea when that should be available?
Next year?
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Old 09-19-2011, 02:58 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Any idea when that should be available?
Next year?
Without knowing any details, i would say yes. Hopefully.
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Old 09-20-2011, 06:47 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Im just waiting for edvard to try 16s lol, pity i think the goblin will be faster as it is sleek like the banshee in a fuse....
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:03 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Im just waiting for edvard to try 16s lol, pity i think the goblin will be faster as it is sleek like the banshee in a fuse....
With a significant amount of $ bound up in 12s batteries, I don't think I will go higher voltage in the near future. But then again, I have proven myself wrong before...
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:31 PM   #45 (permalink)
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What is required to run YGE on 16S??? Will YGE mod it or do i just change caps? I have SMT experience
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Old 11-29-2011, 01:29 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I've ordered through a LHS which already ordered quit a lot for the Suzi-Janis guys. I could make some photos of my 160HV if you want. But I think you need a little bit more for this mod, like firmware for low voltage of 16s and excange whatever isn't capable of 16s. Maybe Heino Jung answers this question or offers an exchange...
-Klaus
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:54 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Spoke with them, they will mod for free if you buy a 320HV unit, they set antispark and maybe firware (not sure on firmware).

Hmmm should i or shouldnt i???
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:57 AM   #48 (permalink)
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I think my 16s 160HV didn't cost more than than the 14s version. Just took 2-3 weeks from ordering. Contacting / asking is always a good idea... especially contact to YGE is really nice. If you call him you directly speed with Mr Jung himself.
-Klaus
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:06 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Of course you should!

Go 16S with 2 x TP3300-8SPP65 29.6V 3300 214.0A 429.0A 136.0 x 44.0 x 60.0 708g.
Should wake the whole thing up. And they are probably lighter than the packs you use now They should have 2mm clearance to the frame sides.

I had a look at 5S lipos to go 15S but the sizes don't really work.

You could go 14S with TP3850-7SPP65 25.9V 3850 250.0A 500.0A 136.0 x 44.0 x 58.0 717g.
But only going to 14S seems a bit lame

The big issue will be getting a motor of low enough Kv that can handle the voltage. My guess for 14S is 450kv, for 16S 390ish.

Mick
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:25 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Taking the 14T pinion as minimum one shouldn't have a problem getting a 45xx winded at 450kv for 2000 stable with 16s. Of course lower head-speed might be a little bit hard for the ESC.
-Klaus
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:01 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Ok got my 320A ESC today, can someone tell me what is the jumper cable for on the prog card lead that comes out of esc???? Do i leave it in?

Also for the RX lead, is this esc an opto so i dont have to worry about anything???

To use prog card, do i plug 4.8V NICAD first then flight pack or other way around?

And gov store mode can i just spool to say 80% on first flight and adjust + and - to get target RPM, it said something about 100%, but not comfortable to do that.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:57 AM   #52 (permalink)
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the small cable is only used for when calibrating throttle with prog card
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:16 PM   #53 (permalink)
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But there is a jumper for it. What is the function??
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:04 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Ok leave it in unless you use it as output for vbar gov
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:38 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Hello,

Your set up is awesome! Would need your kind advise pertaining to the mentioned anti-flash red wire which attached on the corner of the ESC unit. I am not sure where and how to get it connected. It would be highly appreciated your kind advise.

Thanks in advance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Edvard R View Post
OK, finally got around to installing this thing. With the additional wiring for the anti-flash and the WR BEC, it took a while before I was somewhat happy with the layout.

All seems to be working on the bench, so time to give it a whirl sometime next week.

Specs:
2010 TDR with rocker head
Radix 710 FBL blades (Funtech FAI as alternative)
Futaba BLS253/251
WR Super BEC @ 6V
YGE 320HV
AC-3X
PowerCroco 4535 Speed 4+3 YY @ 615KV
14T pinion
Robbe R6107SP Receiver

As promised a few pics:





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Old 07-11-2012, 06:27 AM   #56 (permalink)
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It comes from the factory like that
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:37 AM   #57 (permalink)
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BTW i think i do not have any wire like that on my YGE 160. The antispark feature seems to be built in, because it produce only very tiny spark.
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:44 AM   #58 (permalink)
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I need help.
No matter what i do, the heli always fold its blades when i switch on the motor.
It is YGE 160 + 4525LE, i done throttle calibration twice, also tried various spool up modes.
(heli middle, 3x gov off, plane fast and plane fast, 3x gov off, plane fast)
I quite do not understand the logic of the programming.
Anyway the ESC "runs out" of the requested RPM looking like "soft start" is enabled - i set the slowest spool up time in Vbar and the Vbar requests the RPM slowly, but the real RPM from the sensor is much higher then requested RPM...
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Old 07-15-2012, 03:56 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Have you tried the YGE without VBAR Gov make sure it's not somehing from there. My 160HV always has a jerk to start with but is far from bad enough from folding blades

You are programmng using the short lead? And getting confirmation beeps from the Progcard?. I initially was programming from the throttle lead as per YGE instructions and wondered why things werent happening! . You need to get instructions from the ElektrorRC wiki
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:04 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Yeah, beeps and everything...
I have a Vbar setup guide, it just does not seems to be right.
For example, when i transfer the control to Collective in setup, i can get nice soft spool up without kick...
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