NX4 build

[jiminator]

Just to make sure you understand. When you go to fuel your heli, pull the pinch clamp over the fuel line to close it. Like jbobb said, if you don't you will fill up your engine with fuel. If you do forget this there are two ways to empty out your engine: first, pull the glow plug and tap your starter a few times. Fuel will blow out all over the place. A second way is to set the heli down or have someone hold it pipe side down (pipe horizontal to the ground) and tap the starter very quickly (do not hold the starter on just tap the button). This will clear the fuel out of the engine and get you going again. Sometimes giving your ship a quick shake or two when you turn it on its side will help too.

I did this a time or two until I developed a routine. I fuel my heli first, then fire up the tx and heli electronics. Once I've confirmed everything is working correctly I'll unclip the fuel clamp, hit my pushglo and then start it up. Another good tip is to put your finger on the end of the exhaust pipe for a second or two and plug it on the initial starting attempt . This will prime it and make starting easier. Always keep your hand on the head with a nitro when starting in case you have a hot start. This will be memorable! The engine goes to full throttle and if you are not holding the head... well, you can imagine what will happen. Plugging the exhaust pipe is the fastest way to shut it down if this happens. You will probably notice smoke coming from the clutch if this ever happens. On my one and only hot start I got it shut down in time and saved the clutch.

Not trying scare you or anything just trying to make you aware beforehand of some of the nitro idiosyncrasies.

[ultrataco]

Yeah I've seen plenty of chicken dance videos. definitely want to avoid that.

I finished the setup other than blade pitches. The throttle, gov, bank, and switch glo trigger setup was tricky, partially because I'm using a 6 channel radio (DX6g2), but I got it figured out. It is more complicated than setting up an electric.

I needed the aux channel for the SwitchGlo so I had to tie the banks to flight modes, giving up the ability to switch banks independently. But I'm ok with that because it means I can turn the gov off and on (via banks) when switching from normal to IU instead of worrying about yet another switch.

In the iKON, throttle is 0% @ fully closed, 50% @ center, and 100% @ fully open

Anyway here is how I have it set up right now. Let me know if I missed anything or if something is not good.

Glo plug activated via aux channel switch.
Throttle cut via switch. (-130% in the TX)

Throttle Hold:
Flat 10% throttle. I'll adjust this to a good idle. I think I'll lower to 5% before I try starting it the first time.
Linear pitch curve 0-100

Normal Mode:
Bank 1, gov off.
Throttle curve is 0-15-30-30-30,
Pitch curve is 40-45-50-75-100 (may adjust this depending what the pitch is)

IU1:
Bank 2, gov on
flat 60% throttle, gov set to 2400
Linear pitch curve 0-100

IU2:
Bank 3, gov on
flat 90% throttle, gov set to 2600
Linear pitch curve 0-100

TX Expo on 3-way switch (same as all my other helis)


For starting, at least the first time my plan is this, unless anybody has better advice. :
1. Make sure I'm in TH and set it low (like 1-5%), then bump up to whatever it takes to start.
2. adjust TH to find a good idle.
3. Whatever that percentage is, set that as low throttle in normal mode. (so I can't cut the engine off accidentally in normal)
4. Flip to normal, spool up a bit, flip to IU and fly
5. Land, turn off engine with throttle cut switch.

Oh and I almost forgot about the needle and that other screw on the engine. I'll read the manual and put those where it says to.

[D22597]

Enjoying your build... I'm sure you will have a love/hate relationship with your first nitro!

Few things I noticed, 1) there is no clearance issue with the pipe if you have the throttle linkage on the top horns. 2) with brain/ikon you can set your IU2 to 85%. The reason they allow for this, it will default to the throttle curve % if you ever lose signal from the rpm sensor and 90%+ could damage the motor with no load. 3) read up and watch tuning videos. I found a mini ir temp sensor to be my best friend. 4) expect screws to come lose, especially at first. Nitros vibrate and even more when not tuned during break in. First thing to tighten is the pipe while it's still hot. 5) keep an eye on the align starter. A quick search will uncover reference to its "jackhammer" action that some report premature failure on the start shaft.

Good luck on the journey!!!

[ultrataco]

thanks.

I'll turn down IU2. And yep I know about the screws.

for some reason I was thinking the align starter was a good one. oh well, good thing I got it cheap. I'll be careful.

[jiminator]

Wouldn't worry about the align starter. Been using one for 5 years to start everything from the .37 to a 1.05. Is it the best choice? No, but it works just fine. And if for some weird reason you end up not liking nitro you won't have as much money tied up in something you won't use anymore.

Definitely take your time breaking in the engine.

[ultrataco]

So... I got all ready to go through blade setup. First, I notice the blades have a lot of negative pitch at mid-stick/swash level for some reason. So, I go to adjust a swash-to-grip link and notice it is broken.

I'm ordering 2 packs of 12 links so I should be good for a while.

I guess I'll just set up the other blade for now. Good thing it's winter and I'm not in a hurry.

[Raleighcopter]

If you don't have any, get a pair of ball link pliers. There is no way to remove the follower links without stressing the links without them.

[ultrataco]

Originally Posted by Raleighcopter

If you don't have any, get a pair of ball link pliers. There is no way to remove the follower links without stressing the links without them.

I have some, but they aren't great at putting the links on. I should probably get a better one. Also, some of the ends were really tight getting screwed on and were stressed by how I was twisting them on. I have a better method now.

[07sb]

I had trouble with my links cracking too, switched them out with these heavy duty ones: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-hea...i-helicopters/

TimO

[ultrataco]

Originally Posted by 07sb

I had trouble with my links cracking too, switched them out with these heavy duty ones: http://www.anythingheli.com/gaui-hea...i-helicopters/

TimO

Dang I didn't see those. I ordered the regular ones. Oh well.

[bgymr]

The updated ones are nice. But you can't use them on the tail tid(long one) in the front it it hits the frame and won't allow for full travel on the tail slider. And on an updated swash plate, you can't use them on the bottom of the head links or they rub on the swash. Other than that I have them rverywhere

[ultrataco]

I thought I was done buying stuff but then I realized I need a battery for the starter.

[jbobb1]

Oooops!

[ultrataco]

I tried stuffing a 3s 2200 eflite pack in there but it was a bit too big and I don't want to switch it to deans anyway.

[jbobb1]

I know it's out of stock, but this is what I use. I just made a adapter for charging.

http://www.aligntrexstore.com/3S1P-1...1-_p_1961.html

[jbobb1]

I looked at your pic again and noticed you don't have a exhaust deflector on your pipe. I assume you haven't installed it yet?

[ultrataco]

Originally Posted by jbobb1

I looked at your pic again and noticed you don't have a exhaust deflector on your pipe. I assume you haven't installed it yet?

you mean like this thing?
(pic from google)
The new gaui pipe didn't come with one. There's one on the old pipe I guess I could use if it's necessary. What's it do? Just direct smoke away from the heli?

[jbobb1]

You want to use it, and yes, it directs smoke (and any spitting fuel) away from the heli.

[ultrataco]

Gens Ace 3S 2200 25C fits great




b-surface blade

[Raleighcopter]

I have 4 sets of halo 450. They fly nice on my nx4/t10.