Show Off Your Wiring!

[crpearson]

I only know of two guidlines:

1) Keep the big wires away from the little wires (motor stuff separate from radio stuff)
2) Use the ferrite ring, even though it looks ugly in a wiring job that is otherwise nice and clean

As far as warranties go... Pfshh... The only good warranty is a voided warranty!



Cliff

[crpearson]

Originally Posted by markleyland

P.s If you put all the 'Show off your wiring' threads on this forum together it might make a good sticky.

Well, if we made this one sticky, perhaps there wouldn't be a dozen similar threads to follow it. You have to start somewhere, but if this one falls off the front page, another one like it is sure to follow.

[flerpie]

Originally Posted by crpearson

I only know of two guidlines:

1) Keep the big wires away from the little wires (motor stuff separate from radio stuff)
2) Use the ferrite ring, even though it looks ugly in a wiring job that is otherwise nice and clean

As far as warranties go... Pfshh... The only good warranty is a voided warranty!

I keep the ferrite ring if it's appropriately sized. Sometimes you get
a big old honkin' toroid - those go in the trash. Toroids were more effective
back in the day of lower frequency radios, but I keep them anyways.
They really help with legacy radios.

[markleyland]

Originally Posted by crpearson

Well, if we made this one sticky, perhaps there wouldn't be a dozen similar threads to follow it. You have to start somewhere, but if this one falls off the front page, another one like it is sure to follow.

True, True. Make it a sticky, Im easy. I might even get my camera out!

[DonDuc]

Markleyland: it appears that the spartan is tilted agains the rotor shaft. As far as I understand, this is far from ideal as rotations around other axes will trigger a response from the gyro

Here are some pics of mine. It doesn't look clean but it works...
The two unused servo connectors on either side of the rear frame are for conecting a Rx pack for setup and for the castle link. The two black tubes sticking out the rear house the Rx antennas.

[markleyland]

Never had any issues with it like that, solid as a rock?

[Santini]

I like to use color.

[Steve Evans]

Santini,

You've run the braid right up to the servos, for example the rear one is clearly visible. It may look neat but it's not a good idea. Braid stiffens the wire as well as supporting it, but the wire will still move (indeed vibrate). With the wire as you have it all that movement will be concentrated at the point where the cable enters the servo. This will make the cable prone to stress fractures. Instead leave half an inch or so of the cable unbraided to spread the required movement over a short length as shown below:



And that is a 500ESP and this is a 450 thread, but the same applies!

Steve

[gravydrive]

You can also run the heat shrink right into the servo case, or if the grommet is big enough, shrink right over it.

[DonDuc]

Agree with SteveEvans, I remember Finless saying something similar in one of the vids. He also says that stiffening up everything including the gromet, like gravydrive suggested, is not recommended as it defeats the purpose of the grommet: with everything stiffened up outside, any movement / vibration would bend the wires inside the servos and may cause them to break at the solder.

[flerpie]

Sympathetic vibration is one of the reasons that RC wire is usually made
of many many more strands than regular stranded wire. That's why they
call it "noodle wire" cause it's so flexible.....to an extent. Even shrink
and especially braid adds to the mass of the wire and if not really tied down
it can lead to broken wires as others have said.

I don't braid servo wires because the braid makes it alot harder to hide the wires.
I don't want to see the wires. I want them hidden. Not inside of showy
braid that's way too big in diameter to begin with such as I often see.
I'll braid other wires but usually not servo wires.

Now, having said that...I still might braid some servo wires depending
on the space I have available and how well I can hide the braided wires.
Larger diameter wires like ESC and motor wires, I may braid them for bling
factor and anti-chafing depending where the run has to go.

[gravydrive]

Noodle wire is what they call ESC battery and motor leads and is almost always 12AWG. Servo wire is just regular old 26AWG stranded wire. After thousands of flights on various helis I can say from experience that adding braided sleeving won't cause your servo solder joints to fail, regardless of who says it will.

[markleyland]

Originally Posted by gravydrive

Noodle wire is what they call ESC battery and motor leads and is almost always 12AWG. Servo wire is just regular old 26AWG stranded wire. After thousands of flights on various helis I can say from experience that adding braided sleeving won't cause your servo solder joints to fail, regardless of who says it will.

+1 nothing to get all worried about. Worry more about wires exposed to sharp edges.

[markab]

Here's my 450 sport, hitec down one side and CC ICE 50 down the other, this is my first build so hopefully this will work out...

[johnnychimpo]

Wiring.

[CustomOne]

Is it recommended to get the extra gyro mount. From looking through alot of the sport pictures, it seems like alot of you got the extra mount in some form.

[johnnychimpo]

You dont need no stinking extra gyro mount.

[gravydrive]

Originally Posted by CustomOne

Is it recommended to get the extra gyro mount. From looking through alot of the sport pictures, it seems like alot of you got the extra mount in some form.

It comes in the kit.

[CustomOne]

I meant the upside down mount for tail boom, and no i dont mean the rudder servo. But all is good. Think I have settled on a placement I like.

[helo_doggy]

Make this a sticky. I went crazy looking for something like this. This great for us newbs