Trex 450 Plus DFC Repair Advice

[Anderu]

Hi guys,

I'm a newbie here who hasn't flown any RC flying machines before. I recently got myself a new heli and wrecked it during my training . I would appreciate any advice given during my repair procedures.

Here are some pictures of the heli's condition :











I'll be progressing the repair slowly as I don't have much free time. In the meantime I've got my training covered with Phoenix flight simulator.

For my first step I tried to determine the parts that seems to be broken by carefully observing the heli and making some cyclic and rudder movements with the transmitter to make sure the servos are okay.

For the parts I plan to acquire for the repair :

• H45155 - Tail boom
• H45036 - Tail boom support
• HS1277A - Tail rotor control arm
• HQ0613A - Tail blades
• H45177 - Tail fins
• H45178 - Landing skid
• HS1276A - Main rotor head metal brake
• HD320F (Blue/White) - Main blades
• H45191 - Swash plate leveler
• H45H008XXW - Blade clips (main & tail)
• Pitch gauge
• Hex scredrivers
• Plier for ball link connections
• Blade balancer

Questions :

1. One of the tail boom support is fractured. It's the two thin rods connected to the tail boom. Do I need to replace it?
2. The hole on trail rotor control arm seems to be squished. Can I just connect it back to the ball link or replace with a new one?
3. The plastic tail blades have heavy scratches on it. Do I need to replace it for better control or just get another set as spare?
4. I guess I don't need to replace the tail fins (Both horizontal and vertical) yet?
5. Can I stick with my current landing skid?
6. I have problem stopping the main rotor blades right after landing. Is this what the main rotor head metal brake is for? Can it be installed on the Plus DFC?
7. Does adding blade clips improve anything drastic during my training or I can just skip this?
8. I'm not sure about the swash plate. I think the rudder servor is out of alignment. Do I also need swash plate leveler and pitch gauge to realign the servos after I finished replacing the defective parts?
9. Do I also need a blade balancer or is it also neglegible for my training purpose?

[CrashNburn420]

I would add a main shaft, feathering shaft and main.bearings to your order. Plug in all the servos and test them. You might need to replace servos or gear sets. Move them by hand, sometimes they will feel crunchy.

Get good hex wrenches, cheap ones strip out screws.

[gimbleguy]

Originally Posted by Anderu

Hi guys,

I'm a newbie here who hasn't flown any RC flying machines before. I recently got myself a new heli and wrecked it during my training . I would appreciate any advice given during my repair procedures.

Questions :

1. One of the tail boom support is fractured. It's the two thin rods connected to the tail boom. Do I need to replace it?
2. The hole on trail rotor control arm seems to be squished. Can I just connect it back to the ball link or replace with a new one?
3. The plastic tail blades have heavy scratches on it. Do I need to replace it for better control or just get another set as spare?
4. I guess I don't need to replace the tail fins (Both horizontal and vertical) yet?
5. Can I stick with my current landing skid?
6. I have problem stopping the main rotor blades right after landing. Is this what the main rotor head metal brake is for? Can it be installed on the Plus DFC?
7. Does adding blade clips improve anything drastic during my training or I can just skip this?
8. I'm not sure about the swash plate. I think the rudder servor is out of alignment. Do I also need swash plate leveler and pitch gauge to realign the servos after I finished replacing the defective parts?
9. Do I also need a blade balancer or is it also neglegible for my training purpose?

1. Yes
2. No, Get a new one.
3. Aslong as they don't have cracks, you should be good
4. No.
5. If they are ok, no cracks. keep em
6. Yes. Yes
7. I'd practice heaps on your accurc simulator, hover nose in and tail in. On your 450, add some
D/R and Expo to make it a little bit more docile
8. Take your time in checking everything. and I mean everything, find out what is loose/broken, especially the DFC head, check the the bearings, washers and dampers, make sure they are ok.
9. yes get a blade balancer

Also as said before by the previous poster, get feathering shaft, and main shaft. Also check your main gear and tail drive gears and check to see if they have missing teeth, if so add them to your parts list. You may also need some threadlock

[Anderu]

@CrashNburn420

I would add a main shaft, feathering shaft and main.bearings to your order. Plug in all the servos and test them. You might need to replace servos or gear sets. Move them by hand, sometimes they will feel crunchy.

Get good hex wrenches, cheap ones strip out screws.

Should I check first whether these 3 parts are defective or it's kind of 99% confirmed that crashes like mine will surely kill these parts? I did some research on how to check main shaft and feathering shaft for bents. Will check out on main bearings later.

@gimbleguy

1. Yes
2. No, Get a new one.
3. Aslong as they don't have cracks, you should be good
4. No.
5. If they are ok, no cracks. keep em
6. Yes. Yes
7. I'd practice heaps on your accurc simulator, hover nose in and tail in. On your 450, add some
D/R and Expo to make it a little bit more docile
8. Take your time in checking everything. and I mean everything, find out what is loose/broken, especially the DFC head, check the the bearings, washers and dampers, make sure they are ok.
9. yes get a blade balancer

Also as said before by the previous poster, get feathering shaft, and main shaft. Also check your main gear and tail drive gears and check to see if they have missing teeth, if so add them to your parts list. You may also need some threadlock

I have some further questions regarding your answers :

3. One of my main blade is gone. The other one has 2 - 3 cracks. Does this imply that it's not safe to keep the cracked one and just replace the broken one?
7. Just some off topic question. I'm currently using Phoenix R/C flight simulator. I notice that you mentioned AccuRC flight simulator and I found that RC Helicopter Fun.com praise it. Is it that "good" for experienced pilots?
8. Looking at CrashNburn420's advice and yours, I think it basically means I should dismantle the heli to check on each part, and then assemble them back making sure all the connections, alignments, etc are good?

Looks like other than spooling up budget for the defective parts, I'll also have to take extra longer time to learn on how to re-build my heli before it is air worthy again?

[CrashNburn420]

If your blades have any damage or cracks you replace them. Most everyone replaces them in sets.

For the bearings you want to check if they're smooth, if they feel rough or crunchy they need to be replaced. If you try to fly it with bent shafts or bad bearings, it will have vibe issues or worse.

Main shafts and feathering shafts bend pretty easy on the trex 450s. They're a pretty common replacement part after a crash. They come in packs of two.

[gimbleguy]

Originally Posted by Anderu

@CrashNburn420



Should I check first whether these 3 parts are defective or it's kind of 99% confirmed that crashes like mine will surely kill these parts? I did some research on how to check main shaft and feathering shaft for bents. Will check out on main bearings later.

@gimbleguy



I have some further questions regarding your answers :

3. One of my main blade is gone. The other one has 2 - 3 cracks. Does this imply that it's not safe to keep the cracked one and just replace the broken one?
7. Just some off topic question. I'm currently using Phoenix R/C flight simulator. I notice that you mentioned AccuRC flight simulator and I found that RC Helicopter Fun.com praise it. Is it that "good" for experienced pilots?
8. Looking at CrashNburn420's advice and yours, I think it basically means I should dismantle the heli to check on each part, and then assemble them back making sure all the connections, alignments, etc are good?

Looks like other than spooling up budget for the defective parts, I'll also have to take extra longer time to learn on how to re-build my heli before it is air worthy again?

Rebuilding a heli is just part of the rotor hobby. The more you do it, the better you become at noticing slop, damage/worn out parts and fixin it. You'll get use to it. Watch all the build videos here and on youtube, and you'll pick up what works best. As for the simulator I've only used Accurc, I haven't tried any other simulator, so I wouldn't know how they are. Accurc is ok, I'm still trying to configure it, to fly like my real helis. Feel free to ask questions in this forum, the guys here have all been there and done that.

[lahannsven]

Check if it is not cheaper to buy a new one. The old one will serve for reserve additional pieces for the next crash.

My advice put the dual rates completely down as a beginner.
Train stable hover with a first dual rate of 30% for aileron und elevator, rudder: 85%
Expo in all cases: 20%

Then increase the dual rates, as you feel more assure.


Sven

[lahannsven]

I need to add: No training gear!!!!

The low dual rates of 30% will electronically replace the training gear.

A flybarless heli doesn't fly well with training gear. That's the reason why you crashed.
A flybarless heli resolves everything electronically.


Sven

[Flightpunch 34]

As mentioned,ditch the useless training gear..... use a sim .........

Here is the order i would rebuild that.
First take out the main shaft and change it and check all the gears while you are doing it,to change that,just take out one screw from the main gear (don't loose lock nut on other side) all assembly is reverse of removal. Once this screw is out if you pop off linkages on the swash plate the whole head will lift out,also take off anti rotation bracket and pop off the ele servo linkage so you can take out shaft and check it.Now you just remove the small gear and case from the main gear (4screws) and one way bearing,refitting is the reverse of removal.
Change the main gear if it's missing teeth,check feathering shaft,judging from that crash they might be ok. check links on the head,check servos for binding,check motor and esc wires,if they are ok that is good.
Once main gear is fitted and main shaft is back in check to see if motor has shifted away from gear,if it has you need to loosen screws and move it back a little & watch gear mesh.

Remove boom,i use a length of thread to fit belt back on to new boom,just pull it through,now check all the tail parts and make sure they are ok,now fit the belt to the rear first and screw the rear back on,once you got that done and sorted now get a good small flash light to look through boom,make sure that belt is not twisted and straight and parallel with the top and bottom of the boom,in other words running the same way as it sits on the rear tail belt gear,now when you shove boom back in to the heli make sure and watch belt and keep it from twisting,now that you have kept the belt the same way as i mentioned and when the boom is shoved back in to it's mounting spot on the rear mount of the heli one twist will do to refit the belt on the drive gear in the heli.

Check and re-oil feathering shaft and tail shaft for bends/binding etc.....

Next job is to reprogram and center all servos with MRS,just disconnect the ESC wires and connect battery with transmittor on,once TX is on move throttle stick to half throttle position& once you have this done press the set button on the RX,once each light blinks you need to center each servo parallel with swash to tell the RX what is going on and reset everything,you will only need to do this if you changed anything on the servos or repaired/changed servos.

Here is the order of blinks numbered ahead.

Blink #1 - Ailerons
#2 Pitch
#3 Elevator
#4 Gyro compension direction
#5 Tail /Rudder servo travel left
#6 Tail /Rudder servo travel right

After any crash it's most important to check servo gears,they can normally be taken out and realligned if they are damaged,because even at full travel only 30percent of each gear is been used on full rotation!

If you need more help,feel free to ask or PM .

Cheers
Dan

[Anderu]

Originally Posted by Flightpunch 34

As mentioned,ditch the useless training gear..... use a sim .........

Here is the order i would rebuild that.
First take out the main shaft and change it and check all the gears while you are doing it,to change that,just take out one screw from the main gear (don't loose lock nut on other side) all assembly is reverse of removal. Once this screw is out if you pop off linkages on the swash plate the whole head will lift out,also take off anti rotation bracket and pop off the ele servo linkage so you can take out shaft and check it.Now you just remove the small gear and case from the main gear (4screws) and one way bearing,refitting is the reverse of removal.
Change the main gear if it's missing teeth,check feathering shaft,judging from that crash they might be ok. check links on the head,check servos for binding,check motor and esc wires,if they are ok that is good.
Once main gear is fitted and main shaft is back in check to see if motor has shifted away from gear,if it has you need to loosen screws and move it back a little & watch gear mesh.

Remove boom,i use a length of thread to fit belt back on to new boom,just pull it through,now check all the tail parts and make sure they are ok,now fit the belt to the rear first and screw the rear back on,once you got that done and sorted now get a good small flash light to look through boom,make sure that belt is not twisted and straight and parallel with the top and bottom of the boom,in other words running the same way as it sits on the rear tail belt gear,now when you shove boom back in to the heli make sure and watch belt and keep it from twisting,now that you have kept the belt the same way as i mentioned and when the boom is shoved back in to it's mounting spot on the rear mount of the heli one twist will do to refit the belt on the drive gear in the heli.

Check and re-oil feathering shaft and tail shaft for bends/binding etc.....

Next job is to reprogram and center all servos with MRS,just disconnect the ESC wires and connect battery with transmittor on,once TX is on move throttle stick to half throttle position& once you have this done press the set button on the RX,once each light blinks you need to center each servo parallel with swash to tell the RX what is going on and reset everything,you will only need to do this if you changed anything on the servos or repaired/changed servos.

Here is the order of blinks numbered ahead.

Blink #1 - Ailerons
#2 Pitch
#3 Elevator
#4 Gyro compension direction
#5 Tail /Rudder servo travel left
#6 Tail /Rudder servo travel right

After any crash it's most important to check servo gears,they can normally be taken out and realligned if they are damaged,because even at full travel only 30percent of each gear is been used on full rotation!

If you need more help,feel free to ask or PM .

Cheers
Dan

Okay, I'll be doing away with the training gear. It's a hassle to install it every time I fly and remove them after that anyway. I've been training with Phoenix R/C lately. I think I'm good enough with hovering. The traveling to the left & right part is still tricky for me. Can't get it to travel in a straight line at a fairly low constant speed. I've got some light wind simulation setup for my sim training.

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding your instructions because I'm not familiar with all the parts name yet. Planning to perform some dismantling coming Sunday for inspection so I'll be sure to go over your instruction again. I've gone through some YouTube videos on checking main shaft and feathering shaft, replacing tail shaft, etc. Will review them again to refresh and relate back to your guidance.

Just acquired repair & tuning tools + some replacement parts today but no main shaft. I wish to make sure the main shaft is really bent before burning my wallet further.

I'm getting my stuff from this hobby shop. Can you help me find a suitable oil for feathering shaft and tail shaft?

I also read somewhere that with 450 class size heli, it's okay to skip thread lock. Just make sure to check the screws each time before flying. The reason is I'm not sure where to get myself a thread lock yet. Can I do away with tread lock or is it really not recommended?

Thanks for all your help.

[Anderu]

Hi guys,

I tried to check and replace any broken parts but having a few issues that I need help with.

I removed the main shaft and roll in on a flat surface but didn't notice any major bends. The main drive gear is damaged so I had it replaced and then only install the shaft, main drive gear, and the auto-rotation gear back to the heli. I then spooled up the heli with the lowest RPM I can and then view the main shaft from above to make sure the shaft is straight. There's a slight wobble so I replaced the original main shaft with a new one and then spool it up again to observe from above. The result looks the same so I assume the original main shaft is okay.

After I replaced back the swash plate, linkages to the servos, the main rotor housing, and the tail parts, I tried spooling up the heli again but observing from the side I noticed that the main gear and auto-rotation gear are wobbling up and down. Does this mean the main shaft is really bent? There seems to be some slight give on the main bearings that resulted in minor vibration when I observed the main shaft from above but I don't feel anything strange when I twist the main shaft. Any ideas?

I also removed the feathering shaft and rolled it on a flat surface but noticed no bending. Tried holding on one end with a hex screwdriver and then twisted the main rotor holder like shown on YouTube but nothing so I assume it's fine too. There's a bit of digging (Don't know how to explain but will try to attach close up image if requested) on one of the main rotor holder but doesn't seem like it will affect anything. One thing for sure is after I attached back everything on one side of it (The one with the bit of digging) feels a bit tighter on the twist compared with the other one. Not sure if it will affect the elevator and aileron?

After assembling back the tail, the rotor also feels tight. Tail rotor doesn't feel smooth like almost zero resistance before the crash. Did I pull the drive belt too tight? Plan to loosen it more during my next repair session.

Should I apply grease or oil to the contact point of most of the rotating parts? I only bought bearing grease and applied it slightly on the main shaft.

Thanks.

[Luigi_tuga]

My advice is to replace the training gear with a TRex 500 landing gear , if possible with a gorilla gear. It's a bit expensive but it's flexy and will absorb a lot of energy when landing rough, and I dare you to break one.
Plus they come in flashy colors, that helps a lot with orientation, a very common cause of crash in the first month's.
Having a big landing gear will make the bird very stable in the ground and keep the tail high, better than training gear.
Good luck, and let me repeat:
sim a lot ��

[Anderu]

Originally Posted by Luigi_tuga

My advice is to replace the training gear with a TRex 500 landing gear , if possible with a gorilla gear. It's a bit expensive but it's flexy and will absorb a lot of energy when landing rough, and I dare you to break one.
Plus they come in flashy colors, that helps a lot with orientation, a very common cause of crash in the first month's.
Having a big landing gear will make the bird very stable in the ground and keep the tail high, better than training gear.
Good luck, and let me repeat:
sim a lot ��

Can a 500 landing skid fit onto the 450 without modification? My local hobby shop doesn't sell gorilla landing skid. They don't sell much 3rd party parts. I'm more accustomed to hovering now training with a sim so I think I can do away with a larger landing skid.

Here is a video showing the issue I described earlier. Sorry for the bad filming. I filmed it with my smart phone :



Here is is my second hovering attempt to show that the heli is wobbling when spooling up. It also seems like it's leaning right while in the air. After a while I notice that it tends to yaw counter-clockwise :



I leveled the swash plate at 50% pitch. But when I go to 0% or 100% the aileron and pitch linkages were off leveled. The tutorial shown below said to adjust the end points to make sure the swash plate is leveled from 0% - 100% pitch :



but the 3GX MRS manual page 17 "Setup Pre-check" point 7 states :

Adjustment of elevator and aileron roll rate must be done with the dials on 3GX MRS, do not adjust elevator and aileron travel end points on transmitter. On the other hand, rudder speed is adjusted through rudder end points.

I'm getting confused.

[Anderu]

Hi guys, I thought I'd update here on my repair progress and list out what I learned in hope that it will help other newbies.

I found a piece of glass and rolled the main shaft on it. I found out that the main shaft is indeed bent. I guess it was so minor that I didn't discover it when I checked it last time so I changed a new one.

Finally got my main bearings so also compared the rotating feel with the one in my heli. Decided that it was bad too after comparing the rotating feel between those in my heli and the newly bought ones. I did this by having the main shaft in the bearings, then rotate the main shaft while applying some force sideways. Changed that too.

Then I tried to level the swash plate through the ball linkages and then the blades through the DFC linkages. For those new, make sure you keep the swash plate as low as possible, meaning the ball linkages as short as possible. If you don't do that, you won't be able to level the blades when the swash plate is at 0 degree as even with DFC linkages at shortest length, the blades will still be over 0 degree. Hurt my fingers as I tried leveling the blades through the DFC linkages as my ball link plier does not fit in there. Yes, I made a lot of trial-n-errors to discover this fact.

I also determined the reason for the heavy wobbling of the heli when spooling up. Do not tighten the blade grip too much or the blades will have a hard time "spinning out". Although I referred to this guide (Refer to the first few paragraphs) before, I still got it too tight. I guess you'd have to try spooling the heli up at different tightness to find out the perfect tightness.

Okay, now to ask for further guidance from gurus out here. I had a test hover with my heli today. The heli have a more stable flight after the 2nd repair but something still doesn't feel right. The heli is still not staying upright. It's still tilted to the right. What else could be the reason? Does the tail belt need to be exactly upright? I noticed that there's a little slack when I installed it onto the tail boom so I can tilt the angle slightly a little.

I also noticed that the tail is wagging just ever slightly from left to right, more like a tiny left right vibration. After I landed the heli and rotate the main blades with my hand, I felt that the there's a grinding feel to it. I am pretty sure I didn't felt that previously. At close observation I don't see any broken teeth on the tail drive gear. What will be the most common possible reason? I'll have to dismantle the tail on my next free time to troubleshoot further.

Thank you all and have a safe flying.

[Anderu]

Hi Guys/Gals,

Since I get a day off today, I decided to post my update. But first, to answer my previous questions :

Okay, now to ask for further guidance from gurus out here. I had a test hover with my heli today. The heli have a more stable flight after the 2nd repair but something still doesn't feel right. The heli is still not staying upright. It's still tilted to the right. What else could be the reason? Does the tail belt need to be exactly upright? I noticed that there's a little slack when I installed it onto the tail boom so I can tilt the angle slightly a little.

Please refer to Heli leaning right - NEED HELP PLEASE and Why does my helicopter lean in the hover?.

My brain do have tiny bit of issue getting used to the orientation after more time spent on sim and Nano QX but it's nothing I can't adapt back with my T-Rex 450 Plus DFC with some flights back with the heli.

I also noticed that the tail is wagging just ever slightly from left to right, more like a tiny left right vibration. After I landed the heli and rotate the main blades with my hand, I felt that the there's a grinding feel to it. I am pretty sure I didn't felt that previously. At close observation I don't see any broken teeth on the tail drive gear. What will be the most common possible reason? I'll have to dismantle the tail on my next free time to troubleshoot further.

One of the tail bearings are faulty. It's the one on tail rotor side. I couldn't determine that it's faulty until I remove the tail rotor shaft. It's a pain to remove the tail rotor hub from the tail rotor shaft as I didn't expect connection to have thread lock applied. It's not a screw, just the point you slip in the tail rotor shaft to the tail rotor hub.

And don't screw the tail belt unit too tight. The friction is too much for the tail rotor blade to turn smoothly. I loosen the screws little by little until I felt the friction on tail rotor could not be more smoother.
__________

And now to explain my new situation.

I sent my heli to my local hobby shop for repair because I don't have much free time and I'm out of ideas. When I got my heli back I'm told I messed up the ESC which I think I did it accidentally. Flew 3 batteries last week fine.

Finally got my Mobius and decided to try documenting my flights with it today. There's some gusts around, I don't know the estimated speed but it wasn't as strong as during my 1st crash. Here is a video for I took for reference :



When I went for the 2nd round I just felt like I lost control of it. Like the cyclic is not responding and there's my 2nd crash. I tried pulling back on the cyclic and the heli just keep on heading one way. Then as it plummets and tried a smooth throttle up and it still plummets. I was afraid of signal interference as the heli did plummet once last week like it lost signal. Luckily I was hovering about 1 feet above ground that time. Here is the crash unedited :



I know the video doesn't show well cause I was trying 720p 60fps on the 2nd round but doesn't any gurus here have any suggestions or is it just due to my unpolished skill?

Thanks.

[Helique]

Anderu: wow, you are doing great! It looks to me like there's nothing wrong with your heli. Did you range check the radio after you repaired the heli? I'm no expert but I would suggest maybe slowing down a little bit. And fly a little higher to give yourself more room for error. But you really are doing well! And yes the tilt is normal. Even full size helis tilt but the larger the heli the less you notice it.

[prismatic]

One tip I have for you is to use Tarot parts. They are near perfect clone of Align and cost 1/6 the price. You can get new skids, boom, tail, mainshaft, feathering shaft, and blades at fraction of the cost. The parts are so dirt cheap you will be more confident flying because you won't be afraid to crash. And if you do order, order a bunch of spares as well. I order from Tarot-Rc.com and the shipping is free over 50$ and they use Fedex so the shipping is fast, no brokerage/customs fees either.

I also recommend getting the breakable servo arms too, to save your servo gears in a crash. They are orange in color and you want to use the outermost hole for the cyclic ball link.

[Anderu]

Originally Posted by Helique

Anderu: wow, you are doing great! It looks to me like there's nothing wrong with your heli. Did you range check the radio after you repaired the heli? I'm no expert but I would suggest maybe slowing down a little bit. And fly a little higher to give yourself more room for error. But you really are doing well! And yes the tilt is normal. Even full size helis tilt but the larger the heli the less you notice it.

Thanks. I've been doing some training with sims but have been lacking lately cause I find it more fun to fly the real thing although I've only been flying my Blade Nano QX.

Nope, I haven't tried range check. Didn't bother since I see most people on YouTube didn't range check their heli (Or they did it off screen). I have no range issue with my nQX when flying it at the parking lot just right behind me in the video. I have also flown my nQX quite a distance away in front of my house without any problem. That's why I'm sure the heli stopped responding as I was initiating a banking turn. Maybe I should of have tried the rudder then or just hit TH and cross my finger.

lol. Yea... I know the speed is too much for me. My goal is to get the banking feel right before I proceed with controlling the speed. I've no problem with slow speed with nQX inside my house. But lately I've been trying to control the speed outdoors and boy was it difficult under the wind. If people were to ask me I'd still say a CP heli still feels different compared with a quad with 3-axis gyro. Not sure if size does matter. Planning to get a micro heli for a comparison.

Originally Posted by prismatic

One tip I have for you is to use Tarot parts. They are near perfect clone of Align and cost 1/6 the price. You can get new skids, boom, tail, mainshaft, feathering shaft, and blades at fraction of the cost. The parts are so dirt cheap you will be more confident flying because you won't be afraid to crash. And if you do order, order a bunch of spares as well. I order from Tarot-Rc.com and the shipping is free over 50$ and they use Fedex so the shipping is fast, no brokerage/customs fees either.

I also recommend getting the breakable servo arms too, to save your servo gears in a crash. They are orange in color and you want to use the outermost hole for the cyclic ball link.

Thanks for the tips, prismatic. I've browsed through the site. The problem for me is I'm not sure which parts will fit my 450. Not planning to order $50 worth to find out some redundant parts does not fit. I've just tried ordering some parts from Banggood to see if it fits or not. So far I'm not so sure about the main shaft. Was planning to try the parts during my day off last week but delivery got delayed. When I ask Banggood they say some parts were out of stock although it says available in the items page.

I may document which parts fit as time progresses and order in bulk in the future.

_____

I read people suggesting to move the antenna RX out of the CF frame somewhere in this forum so I've just did that. Gonna try it out once I get my heli fixed.

Got myself extra days off last week so I have been trying to fix the heli. Damage is more severe than my previous crash but I've managed the repair better since my last experience.

Damage list :

• Bent main shaft (Replaced)
• Bent feathering shaft (Replaced)
• Broken screw stuck in the feathering shaft (Replaced)
• Tail belt lost a tooth (Re-used)
• Damaged main gear (Replaced)
• Broken main blades (Replaced)
• Broken canopy (Plan to somehow fix next time)
• Broken landing skid (Re-used my previous; Plan to somehow fix the broken one)
• Crooked screw to hold the main rotor housing to the main shaft (Need to order form LHS)
• Damaged main bearings (Replaced)
• Broken anti-rotation bracket (Plan to re-use after fix)

I plan to replace the main gear, landing skid, and fiber glass main blades once they arrive from Banggood. Does anyone had any experience with fiber glass? I didn't notice it's fiber glass before I placed the order. The price is too tempting. Some people say it doesn't absorb shock as good as CF.

I also notice that if I had the tail belt too loose it will slap the tail boom so I think the right tightness is just when the tail belt stopped slapping the tail boom.

One of my Align battery is very puffy. One slightly puffy. I've got the 3rd one, Gens Ace 45C still not puffy. I've just discharged my 3 batteries to storage charge by connecting a battery voltage alarm to my LiPo, and discharging the LiPo by attaching it to my half fixed heli and throttling it around 25%. This will drain the battery until the alarm sounds at 3.8V. Balanced charger is off my priority and soldering for DIY parts is out of my leagueis for now so I've ordered a LiPo to USB charger to discharge my batteries to storage charge. It's cheap and I can discharge the LiPo by charging my phone.

[rob12770]

very interesting post as i have just bought one of these birds, i have a DX6I and would love it of someone would be kind enough to tell me what i should put into the settings, i am like the OP a nooob
cheers rob

[Anderu]

Originally Posted by rob12770

very interesting post as i have just bought one of these birds, i have a DX6I and would love it of someone would be kind enough to tell me what i should put into the settings, i am like the OP a nooob
cheers rob

I'm not using my DX6i with my 450 but I'll try to help. Others are welcome to chip in.

Assuming you're referring to 450 Plus DFC which is same as mine :
Are you using DX6i with a Spektrum satellite receiver?
If [YES]
Have you bound your DX6i to your 450?
If [YES]
Then please refer to the 450 BNF manual, page 16, "Spektrum System" section. It list the recommended settings here which I think should work with your DX6i. You can find the manual here at the Trex 450 Manuals thread, post #111.

I suggest you download and print a copy for easy reference. And look through over it when you're free. I've look through it countless times. Although I don't know much of the technical things, I've been able to grasping them slowly one by one as I read more and fix my heli more.

Hope this helps.