Acrobat Voodoo 600 build thread

[taosgraveyard]

dont know whats up here.

[taosgraveyard]

the intermediate shaft parts

like this:


needs a grub screw


intermediate shaft drops in here










motor belt goes over shaft






main shaft, assembled main gear, jesus bolt and some shims



DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY... you'll never get it to go in

DO NOT pressemble main gear and shaft


because the main gear will never slip into this slot in the side frame as the end of the main shaft slides on to the lower main bearing plate



instead leave the jesus bolt out


and it will all be able to drop in. then line up the jesus bolt hole



and install and tighten the jesus bolt

[taosgraveyard]

this side up




[IMG]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt3/ravenpath/voodoo/installing%20main%20gear%20and%20top%20main%20bear ing%20plate/2013-03-03144827.jpg[/IMG

[taosgraveyard]

has an integrated counter bearing

[IMG]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt3/ravenpath/voodoo/installing%20main%20gear%20and%20top%20main%20bear ing%20plate/2013-03-03150050.jpg[/IMG



ummmm. oh-oh


Checked with Stephan, and as i suspected, a scorpion with a 6mm shaft does not need a counter bearing. The bearings and shaft are larger inside the motor than on a Pyro. I'll need to remove it then make sure the clip on the shaft of the scorpion at the motor's base clears the hole where the counterbearing was.

[marcosp]

Your build sequence is magnificent and I am sure it will be of great help to Ahmad and me in a few weeks. I'll be using the 4225 on 10S as well so these tips on mounting it are welcome. I got the motor and lipos during my vacation, as well as the BLS255, miniV and some Edge 603SE blades. I bet the lower ESC plate position is to get proper CG on 6S.

[taosgraveyard]

Thanks for the kind words...

Will be posting more tomorrow

Built the head, I do things a little out of sequence, preferring to put the landing gear on last. For me it makes it lower on the bench, and easier to work on and set up

I also like to build the tail after building the rotor head and installing the electronics and setting up the head so that's the order I am going to use in this thread instead of the order in the manual, which by the way is excellent, as one would expect from a German boutique helicopter company

Think you are right about the optional ESC position

[taosgraveyard]

As you can see in the next photo, for a Scorpion 4225.610 motor, the mount has to be modified



I removed the counter bearing and as you can see there is a lip inside the hole for the bearing against which the counter bearing seats.



This lip causes another problem. There isn' t enough clearance for the retaining clip to clear the lip shown in the previous photo The motor can turn, but the clip is caught against tip; the clip stays in one position as the motors can turns.



3 minutes with a dremel tool spinning a steel bit - about 1/8" in diameter and spec'd for grinding aluminum - did the trick



Now, the motor and mount are fastened to the frame side



And the belt is slipped over the motor pulley. I intentionally omitted documenting the installing of the motor pulley, I haven't ground a flat on the motor shaft for the grub screw to seat against, so its all coming out after I have the other frame side on and have decided the motor pulley is in the right position , so that the motor belt is centered on the pulley on the intermediate shaft. So i am saving that part for later.

[taosgraveyard]

starting to look like a helicopter!

[taosgraveyard]

The two aileron servo wire need to be belayed so they don't get caught in the drive train





the servo wires are first routed through the lower bearing block



then a wire tie is fastened around both



and the tie is cinched tight,



take care that the wires wont rub on the intermediate shaft

[taosgraveyard]

[velocity90]

You are so going to love how she flies

[taosgraveyard]

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/t...3-11184030.jpg

[taosgraveyard]

IN the manual, the next step is installing the landing gear, and after that is the section on building the tail.

I have gotten in the habit of doing things a little differently. I am going to do things in t his order

1. install and level the swashplate
2. build and install the head
3. install the Speed Controller
4. Install the FBL unit
5. Install a Spektrum TM1000 telemetry unit
6. wire the helicopter
7. partially setup the FBL unit, except for the tail settings

then built the tail, and THEN finally add the landing gear. I find that doing it my way means that I can move the heli around easier (without the tail) while wiring it , and without the landing gear it sits lower on the bench so its easier to work on from a sitting (ok, slouching) position.

So, soon Ill add the sections about installing the swashplate and head.


soon: I will post the section

[marcosp]

My water is mouthing... I mean my mouth is watering! Gorgeous!

[velocity90]

I have another tip for you. When placing your next order order this parts. They are from the acrobat and the sleeving you have left from the lipo mounters. It will make sure your servoarms are not touching your canopy.

[velocity90]

Picture 2

Maybe I have the part numbers in my email.

[taosgraveyard]

Originally Posted by velocity90

I have another tip for you. When placing your next order order this parts. They are from the acrobat and the sleeving you have left from the lipo mounters. It will make sure your servoarms are not touching your canopy.

Had some left over and tossed it...,


Thanks for the tip, a good one too.

I may have something around here that will work, but I am definitely interested I those part numbers,

[taosgraveyard]

]











That is not an optical illusion. The aileron servo links from servo to swash are canted to the rear. so when the servo is centered it must be at 90" to the link rod. IF you are using Vbar, and if you have the Pro version of the firmware installed, you'll be able to level the swash at 0, min and max pitch. Unfortunately, I am using a Helicommand HC3-SX, and will only be able to level the swash at 0 pitch. I suppose this means that at max pitch, the swash will tilt forward ever so slightly, and will tilt a little bit back at min pitch. I doubt i will notice this very much, and with self level on, the FBL unit should correct for the variation.

Also, I am using JR Servos, and JR servo wheels have a larger OD than Futaba. I can see that the wheel will have to be trimmed a bit so not to interver with the ball link at max and min pitch.



Like the Minocopter Diabolo, a swash height and leveling tool is supplied





I hooked up the HC and will now set the swash height



I like using that tool for setting the height, but I dfind that when I use a swash leveler I don't get a reall accurate level using just the tool under the swash. I didn't have a swashplate leveling tool for the Voodoo, but was able to make one from a Synergy E7 swashplate leveling tool from FBLRotors.com. I had to cut notches in the tool to clear the Voodoo swashplate







I used a metal ruler and recentered the servos. The servo arm must be at a right angle to the link rod. Its easy to eyball it when restong the end of the ruler on the screws in the servo wheel.





Then i leveled the swashplate using the FLBRotors Synergy E7 tool.

Next I'll built the head.

[taosgraveyard]

next, the FBL Head.













A mandrel is supplied for installing and removing the blade holder bearings. THere were already installed in my kit.

[abanihani]

beautiful work and illustarions , Marcos and my kits have been shipped 3 days ago, the wait is almost over and your outstanding build will be soooooo handy. Thanks buddy.