Outrage G5 build HINT and TIPS

[DominicD]

Hi folks, I thought it would be a good idea to sum up all of our good hints and tips in a single thread for new G5 owners. Here is what I think will work as far as formatting goes, Include a photo and a brief description of how to do the mod and what it improves. If we keep it to one tip per post the thread will easier to follow/read.

[DominicD]

Well lets get started this started. My first post isn't so much as a tip ot hint but my wiring for the G5. The G5's frame makes it tricky to wire up the electronics.

[DominicD]

Next tip. People seem to have trouble setting belt tension regardless of what heli they are building/repairing. Personally i set belt tension by feel (if you only knew how often i had to change belts on my rex...) but i have found a more systematic method to set the belt tension. The idea is to tape a 3S 2100mah pack to a main-shaft, then rest the end of the main-shaft on the belt right before it goes into the boom. With the right tension the belt will hover just above the other side of the belt without touching.

[DominicD]

Next tip. When installing the canopy support brace screw into both canopy support pins equally. Try not to cross thread the brace when screwing in the post but if it gets a little tight a set of pliers with some rubber on the teeth will get the pins in that last little bit. Do not use loctite or you will never get it out.

[DominicD]

Next tip. I'm not a big fan of metal control rods on the tail, never have been never will be. This tip also works if your G5 is nose heavy. I bought a Beam CF tail control rod, only buy 1 pack as for some reason beam packages two rods in one bag. Use some sandpaper to remove the glossy finish on the CF rod for proper bonding. Use some JBweld to secure the metal end cap to the end of the CF rod you just sanded and cleaned. The CF rod allows for a better coupling between the tail servo and the tail pitch control arm.

[DominicD]

Next tip. The tail pitch control arm can be a little loose and will result in a sloppy stop on hard piros. One method is to crank down the bolt holding the tail pitch control arm to the tail which does a pretty good job. I went the extra mile and filled in the gap between the little tab on the tail pitch control arm. The picture shows JBweld around the entire seam but this is pointless, all you need is to fill in the tiny gap behind the tab.

[DominicD]

Next tip. If your tail pitch slider is ever anything but as smooth as a baby's bottom (its VERY important for the tail pitch slider to move smooth from proper tail performance) I've found that 99% of the time its due to missing this little tip in the manual. The two screws that hold the pitch slider to the pitch assembly is too tight. Loosen both screws up but make sure you loctite them so they dont fly out. This part of the heli doesn't rotate so you can get away with it being loose, this will not result in any slop in the tail pitch.

[DominicD]

Next tip is a big one. If you find your motor running hot or your heli seems under powered for a setup similar to what others are successfully using check the clearance between the main gear and the tail gear pick off. There must be a gap !!! The picture below is what can go wrong. First off make sure when you loctite the gear assembly into the bearing blocks its all the way down as far as it will go into the gear. If that doesnt work swap the top and bottom bearing blocks. I know the bearing blocks are suppose to be identical this simple swapping as worked on both of my G5s.

[DominicD]

Next tip. If you are going to use the most advanced settings on the head and running extreme pitch settings (i run +-13 collective and +-10 cyclic) the linkages that run to the mixing arm on the head start to get stiff. While this may not become a problem i like to play it on the safe side. The solution is to use balls with shoulders on the mixing arms and not the shoulder-less balls. The problem with using the shouldered balls is that the links become almost impossible to take off.

[DominicD]

Next tip. It's a dirt quick and cheap flybar lock. Just stuff an equal number of tie wraps from both sides. Just get the ends of the tie wraps into the gap, then pull them equally until the ends hit the head block. This works surprisingly well.

[DominicD]

Next tip. The slanted landing gear makes the G5 a little tricky to judge with the grips are at zero pitch. Take a beam CF tail control rod (you should have 1 spare from the bag) and put a rubber grommet on it from a servo. Feed the CF rod into the bolt grip, when you are at zero pitch the CF rod will be in perfect alignment with the main-shaft.

[DominicD]

Next tip. This one is for the flybarless head. It's not so much a tip but something to watch out for. Make sure the anti-rotation arm is secured high enough. If the arm is too low there is the possibility under extreme collective and cyclic pitches that the arm will fold in on itself which prevents the swash from moving and resulting in some specatucalar failure.

[DominicD]

Next tip. This next tip is for the flybarless head again. How do you check the pitch without a flybar ?!?! Well remove the head button and screw a boom support to the head block instead.

[Mathias]

Nice writeup, Capi! Some good tips right there.

[Tronix]

holy crap! awesome timing! thanks HFG

any vids of you flying your g5?

[DominicD]

No videos of myself flying. I have been park flying for the last 2 flying seasons, next year i will start club flying so maybe then. I'm nothing worth videoing anyways.

[jhat]

Seems like this thread should be a sticky. Good info

[ChrisH]

Capi, in THIS photo it looks like there are balls on the outside of the frame, screwed into a frame spacer. Any reason for this?

[DominicD]

I just added an additional frame support and i thought they made interesting washers.

[ChrisH]

Interesting, to say the least.