Sooo red or blue?

[banshee rider]

Originally Posted by Thestructured

Blue for everything. Hell, I've had times where I couldn't unscrew something with blue.

Red is not necessary, on anything on a heli- a liberal amount of blue will do the trick even on the most critical parts (like the grub screw on a tail hub). And it's not worth the headache when something gets super stuck and needs to be drilled out.

Red is good for pissing off whoever you sell your helis to later on. Red is the reason why I've had to throw an airframe in the trash.

+1 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
red is overkill
if a heli needs red find and fix the vibration problem

[3Dmuse]

Originally Posted by ktmdiesel

okay blue it is, I will take my bolts out and clean the holes better. Is there a trick to getting mu feathering shaft bolts out, I should clean those to but i have a feeling only one side will come out

A power drill chuck works really well.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

+1 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
red is overkill
if a heli needs red find and fix the vibration problem

Its a nitro. The engine is the vibration problem.

[banshee rider]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Its a nitro. The engine is the vibration problem.

Still doesn't need red

Kinda funny the engine manufactures don't use any

Anybody seen the bolts vibrate out of a OS or YS engine ?

[smwht]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

Still doesn't need red

Kinda funny the engine manufactures don't use any

Anybody seen the bolts vibrate out of a OS or YS engine ?

Yep.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

Still doesn't need red

Kinda funny the engine manufactures don't use any

Anybody seen the bolts vibrate out of a OS or YS engine ?

Your experience does not represent everyone else's.

In fact, JR models ask for red loctite in their manuals. Even green for the head spindle bolts. I personally like using a little of red applied properly rather than a liberal amount of blue.

Also, you typically don't need to use loctite on most engines due to heat expansion. The trick is to tighten the bolts once or twice after a few heat cycles and the engines natural expansion and contraction during heat cycles will keep those bolts secure. My YS engine's manual doesn't call for loctite anywhere except the needles and carb locking bolt.

Not saying one is right over the other. More personal preference. Red isn't any harder to get off than blue with a little heat applied as long as you don't goop it on there when fastening the bolt. Just more peace of mind for a vibration machine spinning 700+mm blades at 2000rpm.

[banshee rider]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Your experience does not represent everyone else's.
.

Nope and neither does yours
I am also not the only person saying its overkill

I been playing with these things since about 1985/6 somewhere around there
And I have never had one vibrate apart using blue Loctite and very little of that !

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

Nope and neither does yours
I am also not the only person saying its overkill

I been playing with these things since about 1985/6 somewhere around there
And I have never had one vibrate apart using blue Loctite and very little of that !

I don't understand why you're painting me as telling you what's right and wrong. I have repeatedly stated its personal preference and provided examples of manufacturers asking for more than blue in their manuals. Do you want videos too?

There have been a few threads in main discussing this topic as well if you do a search. There is no shortage of examples of blue loctited bolts coming out. Whether that is due to improper user application or vibration is not entirely obvious.

You may not be the only one saying its overkill, but JR would disagree with you.

Again, i'm not saying my way is right. I'll say it a 5th time. Its personal preference.

[Locktite]

Nothing wrong with using red..you use it correctly you are fine..Yes I use red in certain assemblies of my heli.. never had an issue the past 10 years

[banshee rider]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

I don't understand why you're painting me as telling you what's right and wrong. I have repeatedly stated its personal preference and provided examples of manufacturers asking for more than blue in their manuals. Do you want videos too?

There have been a few threads in main discussing this topic as well if you do a search. There is no shortage of examples of blue loctited bolts coming out. Whether that is due to improper user application or vibration is not entirely obvious.

You may not be the only one saying its overkill, but JR would disagree with you.

Again, i'm not saying my way is right. I'll say it a 5th time. Its personal preference.

You said a glow motor is the cause of the vibration and I said its not a reason to use red everywhere like YOU do

Glow engines do not cause the vibrations that loosen bolts
rotating assemblies do such as start/clutch shafts, torque tube drives,out of balance tail blades ect.ect.


Yeah and if I do search for servos theres a ton of idiots saying you can only use
300 inch ounce servos minimum to hover with so what !

what part don't you get ?
None of the manufactures recommend using red on everything
a couple recommend it in a few spots

Synergy recommends it for there TT drive also
but not on EVERYTHING else

[lukeristau]

I've decided I'm going to thoroughly clean the bolts and bolt holes with alcohol and give blue a shot. I may use red on my feathering shaft, but I'll decide that next week. Thanks for the help/suggestions guys.

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

You said a glow motor is the cause of the vibration and I said its not a reason to use red everywhere like YOU do

Glow engines do not cause the vibrations that loosen bolts
rotating assemblies do such as start/clutch shafts, torque tube drives,out of balance tail blades ect.ect.


Yeah and if I do search for servos theres a ton of idiots saying you can only use
300 inch ounce servos minimum to hover with so what !

what part don't you get ?
None of the manufactures recommend using red on everything
a couple recommend it in a few spots

Synergy recommends it for there TT drive also
but not on EVERYTHING else

It. Is. Personal. Preference.

How are you so dense that it hasn't sunk in yet?

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

Yeah and if I do search for servos theres a ton of idiots saying you can only use
300 inch ounce servos minimum to hover with so what !

Exaggerate much?

Originally Posted by banshee rider

what part don't you get ?
None of the manufactures recommend using red on everything
a couple recommend it in a few spots

I would recommend researching what you're saying before saying it. Otherwise it doesn't make you look very smart. Here's just one example from JR's .50 airframe. Tell me how many times they recommend red in there. I'll wait. I can give you more examples. Just let me know.

http://www.ircha.org/sites/default/f...0VIBE%2050.pdf

[banshee rider]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Exaggerate much?



I would recommend researching what you're saying before saying it. Otherwise it doesn't make you look very smart. Here's just one example from JR's .50 airframe. Tell me how many times they recommend red in there. I'll wait. I can give you more examples. Just let me know.

http://www.ircha.org/sites/default/f...0VIBE%2050.pdf

If your going to call someone not to "smart" I suggest you do more research on your subject
The JR vibe had a known vibration problem caused by the engine clutch shaft alignment
Which they treated the symptom not the problem by telling customers to use red

I am done here the OP has made his decision
the only reason I was here was to try and prevent future problems for him and others

[DCflyer]

Originally Posted by banshee rider

If you're going to call someone not too "smart" I suggest you do more research on your subject

Fixed for you.

Originally Posted by banshee rider

The JR vibe had a known vibration problem caused by the engine clutch shaft alignment

I have a Vibe 50. I think I know what i'm talking about - do you have one or are did you just google "vibe 50 vibration" and regurgitate what you saw in the first couple of threads you found? Just because a few people had some problems aligning the clutch stack doesn't mean the machine is inherently flawed by design. Making sure the stack assembly is properly aligned goes true for any machine. I dial indicate all of my machines. If done properly, the Vibe runs no differently than any other nitro i've owned. But thanks for educating me on an airframe i've been flying for 3 years now.

Originally Posted by banshee rider

Which they treated the symptom not the problem by telling customers to use red

What utter nonsense. Have any proof of this? - care to provide a source? There was never any recall done on the Vibe. JR never said to use red because the machine was inherently flawed in its design and they never revised the manual because of it. To do a google search and then come to that conclusion on your own really is astounding. The original manual released called for red just like most of their other models. Your lies and exaggerations are so easy to spot.


To prove that, here is yet another example, of their 700 electric ITO. I'd love to hear why this one calls for red. It came with flawed bearings maybe? Or no wait - the dropped the boxes on the way to the store and then revised the manuals before delivery.

http://www.jramericas.com/manuals/JRP988324-Manual.pdf

[TowPilot]

Enough of the caustic commentary.

You both may "win" soon.

Respect or don't post.

Drop the trash talk so that remains a discussion or leave the thread.

Originally Posted by DCflyer

It. Is. Personal. Preference.

How are you so dense that it hasn't sunk in yet?

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Exaggerate much?



I would recommend researching what you're saying before saying it. Otherwise it doesn't make you look very smart.

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Fixed for you.


What utter nonsense. Have any proof of this? - care to provide a source? To do a google search and then come to that conclusion on your own really is astounding. Your lies and exaggerations are so easy to spot.

[Thestructured]

When I maidened my 700N, I had ball links almost come out from the swash and bell cranks.

Fortunately I saw that after the first flight. Blue loctite and tightening properly, they haven't come out since.

If stuff is coming out, you didn't tighten it enough or you didn't use enough loctite.


I've probably had around 50 flights on my 700N so far and even though it vibrates like hell, nothing's come off, and it's all just blue. I've seen head bolts come out of a friend's engine because he forgot to tighten them properly. Me on the other hand, I could almost not get mine out when I took apart my 105 the other day because I way over tightened them.

The proper amount of torque and a liberal application of blue is all you need. If you actually care about maintenance and take things apart once in a while, red is going to cause you to have a bad day.

I guess each to their own.

[Thestructured]

deleted duplicate

[albertoc]

Hi,

Only based on my personal experiencie after +1600 flights on 3 identical T700 N over last 3 / 4 years:

I use only blue threadlock in the head and tail stuff .( balls, feathering shaft, blade grips balls, etc)

No threadlock at all in any chassis shoulder screws, nor in engine mount, clutch, etc.


Never had any issue on bolts coming off.

BR,

Albertoc-.-