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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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12-27-2013, 06:03 PM | #21 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Take the pinion off and glue it back on better. I used JB weld and it has worked perfect. My model made about ten flights before it came off in flight. I was warned here on the forum but didn't do it till it broke, wish now I had done it when it was new. Caused a minor rebuild blades and boom and front drive gear. I took it apart sanded it and cleaned it and glued it back on. 150 flights or so and no problem now. This model fly's great.
Also if you are using a T6 transmitter you can use throttle delay and it will idle up slowly in flight. I hate to idle up on the ground. |
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12-27-2013, 07:03 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Thanks for the infos guys,'.....i used to iu on the ground with my mcpx before take off but never tried it with a bigger heli. Btw, how do I change the servo speed to soft, is it thru the ESC and if I put some delay on the throttle, does it make the beli more sentimental to throttle input?
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12-27-2013, 07:48 PM | #23 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Trex 250 DFC Plus...just in!!
The faster the HS the more aggressive it will fly for a given pitch/cyclic input. You'll evolve as a pilot. I use to use more expo for very fast HS. Slowing your HS down essentially slows everything down. So I increase expo on slower HS to bring the controls back up to what they would be normally. Especially when I fly sloMo with a 6s pack on a 12s goblin. Hope that didn't confuse ya.
Servo speeds can be slowed/adjusted on dx8 radios and above. Having started with micros and progressing to larger more advanced copters and flying. I picked up bad habits. Like taking off and lading differently with different copters! So I fixed that quick. I land a take em off all the same. I do not use IU to take off or land. But my normal curve is flat from 25% up. It's basically the same as IU but I limit the negative pitch. There is no need to have enough neg pitch to suck ground debris up or drive the tail into the soft ground. So I'm comfortable with landing a 130 or a goblin in deep grass on uneven soft ground. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - sorry for typos!!! |
12-27-2013, 10:20 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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Got it...
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12-29-2013, 05:38 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Well,today I'm flying in IU mode and did some pitch pump (all stock setting as in the manual) and it was way too sentimental compared to normal mode.maybe some a changes in the pitch curve....I'm not flying any 3D. Apart from that, it flies very smooth....gonna put a nice scale on it someday
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12-30-2013, 05:37 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Disc Loading
Quote:
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12-30-2013, 12:42 PM | #27 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Trex 250 DFC Plus...just in!!
Don't worry about it. Either make the Heli lighter or use larger blades. It's an easy calculation and really means nothing to us! It's like power to weight ratios.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - sorry for typos!!! |
12-30-2013, 02:47 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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Re: Trex 250 DFC Plus...just in!!
There are ways to lighten it but they really are not worth it. Disc loading is similar to power to weight ratio but the 250 actually has pretty decent power IMO you just need a lot of pitch to get to the power. What the heavy disc loading does is makes the heli a bit sluggish around the middle of the stick. You really just need to accept that this heli will always have a very different feel from other helis.
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Trex 250 Plus, Trex 550 Pro DFC, Trex 500L, Trex 450L, Blade 180 CFX. |
12-30-2013, 06:11 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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Actually I really enjoy flying this heli other than my mcpx. Yes, making the heli a bit lighter is way to improve it like replacing parts like lighter servos, cf tail boom or maybe a plastic frame, lighter canopy etc....oh well, accept it as it is....time for some morning flight.....thanks again
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All begins (Jun 2011)....... Next project: MSH Mini Protos, 450 Scale Airwolf, BAH Mini Quad Last edited by cpmboy; 01-01-2014 at 02:46 AM.. |
01-05-2014, 05:19 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Spare parts....
Hey guys, looking for spare parts for my dfc plus. I wonder if the dfc pro share the same parts (some) with the dfc plus?.....like main shaft, fearthering shaft, main gear, tail boom, tail gear sets etc
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01-05-2014, 02:10 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Quote:
I have a 250 plus on the way and ordered these parts to convert it into a DFC pro. I don't think i will use the aluminum skids though. I think i prefer the look of the all plastic skids and will make the Heli look more like my 450 pro DFC. |
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01-05-2014, 04:17 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Trex 250 DFC Plus...just in!!
Use a smaller battery. There's no way you're going to save that kind of weight anywhere else.
Disk loading calculation has very little to do with that. It only uses blade length to calculate. Just adding a few mm's of cord will drastically change the characteristics vs. just a few mm's in blade length. The 250's blade cord is tapered from 25mm at the root to under 19mm at tip. The tip is where it happens. The blade design, not loading, is what gives the Heli the flight characteristics you are speaking of. I have not played around with the 250 enough to know if the MX motor would even spin a symmetrical cord blade. Or the esc could deal. I'm sure align engineers had good reason for the current blade design tho. Switching landing gear is a good idea. Many times (all so far) I only replace one of the skid supports. Makes the LG even more cost effective. The bottom plate is a weak link for sure (buy a spare). But I would rather change that out than frame parts for sure! Surprisingly the plastic blade grips and other plastic parts have held up great in some hard crashes. Unless you change motors I wouldn't think there is an advantage to adding the weight of metal parts. Well happy fly'n... We have winter storms here! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - sorry for typos!!! |
01-05-2014, 08:13 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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I think the plastic parts (blade grip (main & tail) are a good safety measures during crash as to prevent futher damage to other parts during impact and it saves weight. So I'll keep it that way. Maybe I just replace the tail boom to CF ones.
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02-10-2014, 09:12 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Stripped hex screw..
I have some loose/stripped gears at tail section and I want to replace it but when trying to unscrew those tiny hex screws (frame), some of them got stripped. Any ideas guys?...
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02-10-2014, 11:05 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Trex 250 DFC Plus...just in!!
Just grind off the head if ya don't have a small easy out. I replaced my 1.3mm with a microheli one that fits very nice. I was leery of the 1.3's at first because my 500dfc heads are total junk.
I've yet to strip a gear but the tail gears will slip on the shaft. The boom gets blazed in even a mild crash. My friend crashed mine and he didn't cut power till I reached over and hit TH. The carbon blades hit and dented the boom 6+ times. I'm very impressed with its ability to take a crash. I'm not sure if I would change anything at this point. I did swap to a cf canopy and it can take a good hit and protect the Heli. Many (all I think) parts r the same except for the tail boom housing. My OWB has seized after a crash. Thought that was done or it would be after I forced it back but it spins like a top. I greased it on the original setup which may have been the cause or resulted in saving it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - sorry for typos!!! |
02-11-2014, 09:26 AM | #36 (permalink) | |||
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Quote:
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02-11-2014, 01:49 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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02-11-2014, 07:11 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the heads up vtown, gonna do this later this evening...hopefully I can get all stripped screws out.....and at the same time...Im thinking of ordering this kit (I had these on my 450 pro and they are strong but a bit heavy).....
http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info...oducts_id/3308
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