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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 01-15-2013, 04:15 PM   #201 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post
I feel like I searched for an answer to this and it wasn't very well reviewed. Check for a thread in the Nano CPX Brushless forum.
This is the thread I was thinking of:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=485425
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:30 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Thanks

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Originally Posted by spiff72 View Post
This is the thread I was thinking of:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=485425
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:32 PM   #203 (permalink)
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this thread was very help full.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:20 PM   #204 (permalink)
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Default Re: Nano CP X tips

I found that a little rubber cement on the end of a toothpick works well for the feathering shaft nut.

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Old 01-26-2013, 12:32 PM   #205 (permalink)
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:54 AM   #206 (permalink)
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I ordered blade grips , swash and hub package with swash leveler from rakon , most parts weigt less than stock.. Have a great day all.
Now to save for a dx6! I was told i need one to be able to run brushless setup.
I have been keeping my batteries on top of dvr and it keeps them warm and gives more punch, but i still only getting 3 minutes of 3 d banging! On stock.
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Last edited by Heli biggie; 01-28-2013 at 10:00 AM.. Reason: More info
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:34 AM   #207 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Heli biggie View Post
I ordered blade grips , swash and hub package with swash leveler from rakon , most parts weigt less than stock.. Have a great day all.
Now to save for a dx6! I was told i need one to be able to run brushless setup.
I have been keeping my batteries on top of dvr and it keeps them warm and gives more punch, but i still only getting 3 minutes of 3 d banging! On stock.
What are you flying your other helis (in your signature with)? Just curious why you are saving for a DX6i...
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:59 PM   #208 (permalink)
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I use walkera 2801 tx and rx with my other helis. Then i got out of wasting my money with walkera but the tx is still great , its just the helis that suck, so then i got a rtf nano,.. Now i just need a better tx for blade products, but im cheap ,so dx6 is cheapest.

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What are you flying your other helis (in your signature with)? Just curious why you are saving for a DX6i...
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:03 PM   #209 (permalink)
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Keeping you Batteries warm is unsafe and will shorten ther life and its not a good idea for fire danger either.

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Originally Posted by Heli biggie View Post
I have been keeping my batteries on top of dvr and it keeps them warm and gives more punch, but i still only getting 3 minutes of 3 d banging! On stock.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:07 PM   #210 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by JSzabo View Post
Keeping you Batteries warm is unsafe and will shorten ther life and its not a good idea for fire danger either.
I doubt a DVR gets over 100F and lipos safely operate up to 120F or more.

Warming them up also does give them more punch as long as your are not putting them in excessive heat.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:38 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Might give them more punch but if you do a little research your are advised to keep you Lipo's in a cool dark place thats why so many people store them in the fridge.

Thats all I am trying to say storing them ontop of your DVR might make them more punchy but they wont last long.

Damn sure I would keep my 6s ontop of my DVR..

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Originally Posted by Proud Polac View Post
I doubt a DVR gets over 100F and lipos safely operate up to 120F or more.

Warming them up also does give them more punch as long as your are not putting them in excessive heat.
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Old 01-28-2013, 08:46 PM   #212 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSzabo View Post
Might give them more punch but if you do a little research your are advised to keep you Lipo's in a cool dark place thats why so many people store them in the fridge.

Thats all I am trying to say storing them ontop of your DVR might make them more punchy but they wont last long.

Damn sure I would keep my 6s ontop of my DVR..
These little guys are so cheap it seems worthwhile to risk their health for a little more punch. Anyways, you can compromise. You don't need to store them warm- store them cold, and warm them up just before you use them.
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:55 AM   #213 (permalink)
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Default Canopy pin mod - revised

It has held up for a loooong time now, no more broken pins!

OK, so I decided yesterday to try and add a second layer of heatshrink... ended up much sturdier, but a pin broke at the root after a couple of crashes...

-So stick with ONE layer of heatshrink guys! It's very flexible then, but that's the way to go! When putting the canopy on enter two pins at the same time (left-right), makes it easier
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:27 AM   #214 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by GoatRider View Post
These little guys are so cheap it seems worthwhile to risk their health for a little more punch. Anyways, you can compromise. You don't need to store them warm- store them cold, and warm them up just before you use them.
Just warm them before you use them, I charge mine up then pop them in my pockets to warm them before flying. The warmth definitely helps.

Best to store them in a cool dark place after use. Only charge them just before flying if you want them to last.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:07 AM   #215 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SHYguy View Post
It has held up for a loooong time now, no more broken pins!

OK, so I decided yesterday to try and add a second layer of heatshrink... ended up much sturdier, but a pin broke at the root after a couple of crashes...

-So stick with ONE layer of heatshrink guys! It's very flexible then, but that's the way to go! When putting the canopy on enter two pins at the same time (left-right), makes it easier
I use a length of music wire (0.5mm diameter), and heat-shrink around it (with a smidgent of shoe-goo first). I did a similar thing on my mCPx (but replaced pins entirely with 0.7mm diameter music wire). You can extend the length of the music wire and bend it at the end a bit too - gives it an extra bounce when it hits the ground.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:30 AM   #216 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonglim View Post
I use a length of music wire (0.5mm diameter), and heat-shrink around it (with a smidgent of shoe-goo first). I did a similar thing on my mCPx (but replaced pins entirely with 0.7mm diameter music wire). You can extend the length of the music wire and bend it at the end a bit too - gives it an extra bounce when it hits the ground.
Great idea! I'm pretty good with music wire, I might just do that once I break a canopy pin.
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Old 01-30-2013, 03:14 PM   #217 (permalink)
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This is so perfect timing , i just broke a pin off , now i must try this. Maybe a big paper clip will work??




Quote:
Originally Posted by soonglim View Post
I use a length of music wire (0.5mm diameter), and heat-shrink around it (with a smidgent of shoe-goo first). I did a similar thing on my mCPx (but replaced pins entirely with 0.7mm diameter music wire). You can extend the length of the music wire and bend it at the end a bit too - gives it an extra bounce when it hits the ground.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:18 AM   #218 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli biggie View Post
This is so perfect timing , i just broke a pin off , now i must try this. Maybe a big paper clip will work??
I experimented with paper-clips, but they're not as flexible and weights a bit more. I like music wire better, besides they're readily available at your LHS for less than $0.50 for a 1meter length .

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoatRider View Post
Great idea! I'm pretty good with music wire, I might just do that once I break a canopy pin.
If you like music wire, have I got another great idea for you. I made a landing skid from it for my nano...again, did the same on my mCPx earlier. 0.5mm diameter for the nano one, and 0.7mm for the mCPx one. Making one is pretty easy, just take the length (start with a 1meter length) of the music wire and trace as if it was a pencil line based on the stock landing skid. A loop here and there as desire. And use a dab of shoe-goo and shrink-wrap the end. It's hard to explain, but the pics below should be pretty clear. The nice thing is you can make the battery holder as big as you want, and it will still hold the stock nano battery nicely, just squeeze the music wire closer a bit to make them tighter. It's very durable - haven't broken one, and they also help to absorb shock on a crash. If they do get bent out of shape after a crash, just bend them back in shape. On my inaccurate scale, the nano one I made weights only about 0.2g more than the stock landing skid.
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:40 AM   #219 (permalink)
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Nice
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:58 AM   #220 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soonglim View Post
I experimented with paper-clips, but they're not as flexible and weights a bit more. I like music wire better, besides they're readily available at your LHS for less than $0.50 for a 1meter length .



If you like music wire, have I got another great idea for you. I made a landing skid from it for my nano...again, did the same on my mCPx earlier. 0.5mm diameter for the nano one, and 0.7mm for the mCPx one. Making one is pretty easy, just take the length (start with a 1meter length) of the music wire and trace as if it was a pencil line based on the stock landing skid. A loop here and there as desire. And use a dab of shoe-goo and shrink-wrap the end. It's hard to explain, but the pics below should be pretty clear. The nice thing is you can make the battery holder as big as you want, and it will still hold the stock nano battery nicely, just squeeze the music wire closer a bit to make them tighter. It's very durable - haven't broken one, and they also help to absorb shock on a crash. If they do get bent out of shape after a crash, just bend them back in shape. On my inaccurate scale, the nano one I made weights only about 0.2g more than the stock landing skid.
Impressive skills!
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