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500 Class Electric Helicopters 500 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 07-14-2010, 02:26 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I have had two of these motors replaced under warranty, each one doing maximun of 30 flights before the bottom bearings went, the second one I oiled after every session but it did not last much longer

The third replacement I stripped before use and replaced with boca ceramics, I loctited the bearings to the shaft and removed the endplay the motor is now sweet with over 100 flights and no oiling
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Old 07-16-2010, 12:05 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundust View Post
Well I guess Align has heard you
Here it is shaft and bearing for M series engines. I hope they are better than stock ones.
http://www.align.com.tw/shop/product...27&language=en
Hehe, maybe
But now its too late. I really like my Scorpy motor and don't think to go back to the Align.
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Old 07-16-2010, 01:41 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leman View Post
I have had two of these motors replaced under warranty, each one doing maximun of 30 flights before the bottom bearings went, the second one I oiled after every session but it did not last much longer

The third replacement I stripped before use and replaced with boca ceramics, I loctited the bearings to the shaft and removed the endplay the motor is now sweet with over 100 flights and no oiling
Did you modify the shaft when the grub screw fits, and If so how, I have recieved my new shaft and Boca bearings , just waiting for the bottom bearing to poop out.
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Old 07-16-2010, 02:10 PM   #64 (permalink)
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U can use a dremel, but I used just a flat file. The grub screw doesn't even fit on there! It's 'o' shaped, but i filed it to where it looks more like the pinion grub screw set but not as big (more rectangular). Just keep filing and comparing it to the grub screw, and as soon as it'll fit flush on there, your done. I filed about 1/32" on the top and bottom of the 'o' where the grub screw sets and it worked out pretty well.
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Old 08-15-2010, 02:03 PM   #65 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, I have 30+ flights on my ESP, punched it into the earth and actually broke a magnet - tip of one magnet. As it turns out, the magnets are held in via some type of putty epoxy. I am attempting to epoxy it back in and see if it holds. Scorpion is in my future.
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Old 08-20-2010, 03:22 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Hey guys I was flying today and noticed that the power dropped on the 500 and my batt still had adequate juice in it. I checked the motor, I held the silver around it and i could move the silver bit up and down quite a bit does this mean I have a problem with the bearings and the shaft?
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Old 08-20-2010, 06:40 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Hi Euwan,

I had that kind of play in my 500M even without a single flight. I think up/down play is inevitable albeit only marginally whilst side/side (radial) play is more serious which would cause tail wags etc. should be the assembly of the motor.

I changed mine to ZPower from day one and never had a problem. Motor is only warm after a 6min flight but I am a mild flyer without any 3d. Only loops and TTs. Lots of members have changed the motor to scorpion with great reliability and assurance of mind during flight.
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Last edited by feudallordcult; 08-20-2010 at 06:40 PM.. Reason: addition of marginally
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:21 PM   #68 (permalink)
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How do you remove the big bearing? Mine is really stuck to the black housing.
I try to tap it from inside with a philip screw driver, it won't even move
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:34 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Just had the 200th flight on my 500M motor. Never done anything to it except oil the bearings with a drop of Scorpion lube every ten flights. Still has great power and always has had a little bit of up/down play on the shaft. Just lucky I guess (Hope I didn't just jinx myself) .
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:15 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heli0 View Post
For what it's worth, I have 30+ flights on my ESP, punched it into the earth and actually broke a magnet - tip of one magnet. As it turns out, the magnets are held in via some type of putty epoxy. I am attempting to epoxy it back in and see if it holds. Scorpion is in my future.
I was able to epoxy my magnet back into the case , but now , at very low rpm's I can see the outer housing wiggle just a little, so its bent !
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:17 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinguin View Post
How do you remove the big bearing? Mine is really stuck to the black housing.
I try to tap it from inside with a philip screw driver, it won't even move
dont force it, use a larger hammer, I use a pin punch and tap it out.....
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:17 PM   #72 (permalink)
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I just got a 500 FBL Combo.

Anyone know if they have fixed this problem with the motor?
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:30 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVS View Post
I just got a 500 FBL Combo.

Anyone know if they have fixed this problem with the motor?
I'm not sure. I know they started selling the replacement shaft for it, but it doesn't say if anything's different with it. Maybe someone else is aware and can tell you.

The motor will warn you. It normally has a smooth high-pitched whine to it. It starts to sound like you are shaking a bunch of ball bearings inside a can as they start to go bad.

EDIT: My shaft showed wear after only a few flights.
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Old 11-04-2010, 12:30 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I have like 40 flights at least on my 500, and never even saw this thread. Could someone please explain exactly what I need to do to open and fix my motor?

The set screw on the bottom is rounded not hex, so I can;t loosen it at all, should I just try tapping it?

If I grap the bell while the motor is still sitting in the heli, should I be able to move it at all? If I push it back and forth it does move, but not enough to be visible, I can just feel it.
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Old 11-04-2010, 02:18 AM   #75 (permalink)
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I'm pretty worries now, so I took off the motor, and waggled the haft back and forth whilst holding the bell. There is no play at all, then I tried whilst holding the top part that dosn;t spin. There might be a minimal amount sideways, but It really is tiny, there is a visible amount up and down though, its well under a mm of play up down though. Should I open it up? Or just let it be.

The think is, I'm reluctant to go starting banging it with a hammer, cos Its been about the best part of the heli so far, run fantastic everytime.. touch wood. no braing problems or anything, not that I can hear anyway.
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Old 11-26-2010, 07:09 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I notice this thread has been quiet for a while, has there been any new developments or has anyone had any problem with newer 500's?

I bought mine a month ago and just did the maiden today. It doesn't have any play, but I don't really want to tear the thing apart to see if there's a problem. I'll just keep an eye (and ear) on it and see what happens. Seems pretty silly to have to tear apart a brand new motor to make it work properly - maybe they've fixed the problem now?
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:35 AM   #77 (permalink)
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I replaced my motor bearing with Boca ceramic bearing and the grinding noise is gone.

I found that the smaller bearing is bad, notchy
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:17 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Pinguin, was there any shaft wear and did you have to replace it, or just one/both bearings? Do you have the Boca part #'s handy?
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:50 AM   #79 (permalink)
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My motor has less than 30 flights. But actually there is some wear, but very little. I didn't replace the shaft.
I replace both bearings

Boca links is as follows:
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-...CYUUNB2-5x13x4
and
http://www.bocabearings.com/productd...px?ItemID=4415
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Old 12-07-2010, 04:37 PM   #80 (permalink)
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I received the boca bearings in the link for my 500m motor in the mail today, the motor only had 9 flights on it and was working fine but I wanted to put the bearings in before the shaft started to wear. Anyhow should I oil the bocas every 10 flights or so or just leave em alone? Also I was able to get the axial play down to less than 1mm, hovered 1 pack and motor sounded fine.
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