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jblanch999 · 06-21-2008, 01:00 AM

I understand that something has to give, and they are designed to be the sacrificial part. If this is the case, then why are they such a pain to replace.

Just a little frustrated after breaking them on two consecutive flights, when landing on grass, and they weren't even rough touchdowns.

invertmast · 06-21-2008, 02:34 AM

how in the crap are you breaking THE torque tubes? i've never broken a torque tube in over 6 of the heli's i've had that had them..

now the front torque tube GEARS go out like crazy anytime the tail touches the ground

TheBum · 06-21-2008, 07:12 AM

Try getting some 92mm tail blades instead of the 95mm ones that come stock. They'll give you more ground clearance when the tail fin touches the ground. They also get you back to the rotor disc size the heli was designed for; the revised tail grips that added thrust bearings actually enlarged the rotor disc by putting the blades farther away from the hub.

Even though I'm no longer running the TT (I converted to belt after my next-to-last crash), I'm running the 92mm K&B tail blades and have been very happy with them. The 84mm K&B 30/50 size blades were short enough that they were making right and left piro rates quite a bit different.

jblanch999 · 06-21-2008, 12:56 PM

I appologize, I didn't even mention the gears, which is where the problem lies. The 2 front gears break all the time.

TheBurn: thanks for the advice. . . .good input. Even with your obvious experience level, you converted back to the belt. . . TT must be overrated or poorly designed.

AFjetmech · 06-21-2008, 01:27 PM

Get the slightly longer tail fin also. Every MM counts!

Craig33 · 06-21-2008, 02:23 PM

They are pretty easy to replace if you have the knack. If you have a spare mangled torque tube cut from one end about 8-10in long so you have a piece of shaft with the cross on the end of it.

Pop the link, unscrew the 12 screws, unbolt the 4 screws holding the boom split the case and take the vertical gear out (leave the horizontal one) put the case back together, stick the previously made bit of torque in the end of the bevel gear like it would sit normally and one good whack on the floor normally pops it right out. Split the case again, bit of grease and the new one pops right in. Once practised a few times it should take no more than 10 mins.

They do strip quite easy though.

AFjetmech · 06-21-2008, 02:56 PM

Has anyone done the boiling trick on the gears to soften them up, or am I just doing some wishfull thinking? How come they never strip at the tail end? It seems they need to just be made a little less brittle. Sure, they may wear out slightly faster, but it beats having to change them for minor tail scrapes.

jverre · 06-21-2008, 04:54 PM

I would love someone to make some aluminum gears for the front and the tail of the heli. Of course I am removing the weak spot (the gears) and don't know what would give next. Can you make a cast out of plastic to pour aluminum?

fiveoboy01 · 06-21-2008, 06:41 PM

Quit bumping the tail rotor on the ground, problem solved....

Craig33 · 06-21-2008, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fiveoboy01

Quit bumping the tail rotor on the ground, problem solved....

Ha ha yea i stopped practising my autos until pay day when i can afford another set of spare gears.

Mercuriell · 06-21-2008, 07:16 PM

Make up a complete spare tail assembly with a belt drive if you gonna practise autos - or bend a bit of wire (spare pushrod ideal) into a hook then drill a hole on the vertical stabiliser and epoxy it in (on on the side if using CF) - maybe also loosen off your tail blades a touch - they should swing loose with side play ideally

devious17 · 06-22-2008, 02:31 AM

Has anyone tried replacing the torque tube with a carbon rod ?

I agree that the front gears are as tough as cookies, I have extended the lower tail fin to avoid the blades from hitting the ground.

jverre · 06-22-2008, 01:42 PM

A little carbon rod or flybar material is quick and easy when practicing autos.. I like the idea of not hitting the tail blades but when practicing accidents happen. This might be easier on the pocket book !!!

sonofcar · 06-23-2008, 01:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fiveoboy01

Quit bumping the tail rotor on the ground, problem solved....

uummm he has a point. Dont blame aligns design on your bad landings.

fiveoboy01 · 06-23-2008, 01:28 AM

Well my comment was a little tongue in cheek as it isn't too hard to bump the tail on the ground... But if you're careful it can be avoided.

06-21-2008, 01:00 AM	#1 (permalink)
jblanch999 Registered Users Join Date: May 2008	Torque tube WOES I understand that something has to give, and they are designed to be the sacrificial part. If this is the case, then why are they such a pain to replace. Just a little frustrated after breaking them on two consecutive flights, when landing on grass, and they weren't even rough touchdowns.

06-21-2008, 02:34 AM	#2 (permalink)
invertmast Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Oct 2004	how in the crap are you breaking THE torque tubes? i've never broken a torque tube in over 6 of the heli's i've had that had them.. now the front torque tube GEARS go out like crazy anytime the tail touches the ground __________________ Comparf Eurosport 1/7 F-14D Rave 450, scorpion -10, DS285MG, 3500G, Spartan, 4s 2200 outrage, 6100e, 350mm radix lookin for another Vibe 50

06-21-2008, 07:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	Try getting some 92mm tail blades instead of the 95mm ones that come stock. They'll give you more ground clearance when the tail fin touches the ground. They also get you back to the rotor disc size the heli was designed for; the revised tail grips that added thrust bearings actually enlarged the rotor disc by putting the blades farther away from the hub. Even though I'm no longer running the TT (I converted to belt after my next-to-last crash), I'm running the 92mm K&B tail blades and have been very happy with them. The 84mm K&B 30/50 size blades were short enough that they were making right and left piro rates quite a bit different. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

06-21-2008, 12:56 PM	#4 (permalink)
jblanch999 Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: May 2008	The gears The gears I appologize, I didn't even mention the gears, which is where the problem lies. The 2 front gears break all the time. TheBurn: thanks for the advice. . . .good input. Even with your obvious experience level, you converted back to the belt. . . TT must be overrated or poorly designed.

06-21-2008, 01:27 PM	#5 (permalink)
AFjetmech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2007	Get the slightly longer tail fin also. Every MM counts! __________________ AMA# 902812 More stuff than there is time to fly it.

06-21-2008, 02:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
Craig33 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Feb 2008	They are pretty easy to replace if you have the knack. If you have a spare mangled torque tube cut from one end about 8-10in long so you have a piece of shaft with the cross on the end of it. Pop the link, unscrew the 12 screws, unbolt the 4 screws holding the boom split the case and take the vertical gear out (leave the horizontal one) put the case back together, stick the previously made bit of torque in the end of the bevel gear like it would sit normally and one good whack on the floor normally pops it right out. Split the case again, bit of grease and the new one pops right in. Once practised a few times it should take no more than 10 mins. They do strip quite easy though.

06-21-2008, 02:56 PM	#7 (permalink)
AFjetmech Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2007	Has anyone done the boiling trick on the gears to soften them up, or am I just doing some wishfull thinking? How come they never strip at the tail end? It seems they need to just be made a little less brittle. Sure, they may wear out slightly faster, but it beats having to change them for minor tail scrapes. __________________ AMA# 902812 More stuff than there is time to fly it.

06-21-2008, 04:54 PM	#8 (permalink)
jverre Registered Users Join Date: Jul 2007	I would love someone to make some aluminum gears for the front and the tail of the heli. Of course I am removing the weak spot (the gears) and don't know what would give next. Can you make a cast out of plastic to pour aluminum?

06-21-2008, 06:41 PM	#9 (permalink)
fiveoboy01 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Madison, WI	Quit bumping the tail rotor on the ground, problem solved.... __________________ Dirty B - LARCC/RRAMS/MARCS *FLEET:* Blade 150S

06-21-2008, 07:16 PM	#11 (permalink)
Mercuriell HF Support Join Date: Sep 2006	Make up a complete spare tail assembly with a belt drive if you gonna practise autos - or bend a bit of wire (spare pushrod ideal) into a hook then drill a hole on the vertical stabiliser and epoxy it in (on on the side if using CF) - maybe also loosen off your tail blades a touch - they should swing loose with side play ideally __________________ John

06-22-2008, 02:31 AM	#12 (permalink)
devious17 Registered Users Join Date: Jul 2007	Has anyone tried replacing the torque tube with a carbon rod ? I agree that the front gears are as tough as cookies, I have extended the lower tail fin to avoid the blades from hitting the ground. __________________ So long xCell! Hello GAUI Heli's!!!

06-22-2008, 01:42 PM	#13 (permalink)
jverre Registered Users Join Date: Jul 2007	A little carbon rod or flybar material is quick and easy when practicing autos.. I like the idea of not hitting the tail blades but when practicing accidents happen. This might be easier on the pocket book !!!

06-23-2008, 01:28 AM	#15 (permalink)
fiveoboy01 Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Madison, WI	Well my comment was a little tongue in cheek as it isn't too hard to bump the tail on the ground... But if you're careful it can be avoided. __________________ Dirty B - LARCC/RRAMS/MARCS *FLEET:* Blade 150S

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