Best FBL head setup

[helimaniac88]

ok, I'm going from memory, i'm at wifes family xmas dinner so I will write what I think and check when back at the beach house. I had a bad blade grip with my genius and there were no parts. I ordered a v100d03 head assembly to see if the blade grips worked. The grips worked, but I think the leading edge set up was reversed, I remembered having to change pitch in tx to get the heli to lift off. The feathering shaft is the same diameter. The genius head was much less substantial from the v100d03 as well as grips. I think that the v100d03 is the better choice for built in stabilizer and old style shaft size. I actually am going to use the head and grip assembly on a v120 when I get around to it. I just received the 120 "s" (have not rogramed my devo for it yet so no mais=den until tomorrow) but the head and grips are much beefier than the genius. I think yhat the genius head would be great untill the first crash. It just does not have enough mass. Also, the blade grips are smaller diameter blade screws (this could be remideied though) I actually drilled out a genius blade hoole when using the v100 grips. The v100d03 grips look good though I think Vronny has eluded to the link balls poping off, though I do not remember if this was the swash balls or grip ones or Both (Vronny?)

Another possible option, though Vronny has pointed out in another post that it may have "balance" issues, is to use the "s" head with the regular shaft and some heat shrink tun\be. I do not remember who tried it, but they had reported good results. I like this idea as this head is very robust. The easy option is to use it with the v100 grips or standard v120 ones

What I will try when home from vacation on my birds that do not get converted to "s" specs, especially my m120's that seem to be more difficult to upgrade to "s" tail parts anyway is the following: ( I do not know if this will work but seems possible)
If infact the "s" head can be made to run true on the thinner shaft by using heat shrink, then I would use the new grips as well, I really like the thicker feathering shafts. The probem is in doing this without going to the new swash. I ordered an extra set of "s" links, I think that the old links on the swash, with the larger new link on the blade grip will work fine. i have not checked, but I believe the link itself is the same so the two link ends w=should be able to thread onto the same link. If not then it is an easy matter to drill and epoxy an old link end onto the new link if it is a slightly lthicker link. This would still allow the larger end to be adjusted if the smaller one was CA'd in a fairly close to optimal position. This all rides on the new head being able to properly be used with a heat shrink sleeve. I do no tknow of any metalic sleeve that is thn enough.
At any rate there are now many other very good options for FBL heads. I like my SnemiOO heads though just fine. I am currently running 2 of them. One an original prototype that will outlive any heli I install it on. I think though the real issue today is that we have these walkera 120's flying so well, perfermance and reliability are no longer really the holly grail. The real issue is that since the advent of the mcpx, and later the genius and "s" the real marker is crash survivabilty and ability to fly the same after crashes. The heavy duty metal parts are incredible from a rigidity and durability standpoint. The problem lies in there transference of force into the other parts of the head and drive train. The newer ribed and reinforced plastic head parts are great in that they are dursble, but they also flex and give, absorbing some of the impact of blade strikes and such. The metal versions may not break, but they can bend or bend another metal part. Thsi si one of the real reasons why people have trouble getting the 120's to tune right. There is always the possibilty that there are bent or out of alighnment parts that are difficult to diagnose. The plastic stuff really usuallyflexes and returns to its original dimentional specs or breaks. The new "s" gris are ribbed with reinforcement ridges, so are very rigid. This is th eone sraw back to the mcpx grips. They are strong and hold up well, but when used on hot roodded hi HS set ups they do not have the rigidity the metal counterparts have. I am looking foward to converting several of my notter set us to the "s" configuration.