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Genius CP Walkera Genius CP Helicopter Support


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Old 05-16-2012, 09:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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It really dosen mind guys, it's fine. He misunderstood how I spoke, it's not a big deal at all to me. Please don't worry about it, he apologized that's what matters.
This was a test, this was only a test, had this been a real emergency, you would have been instructed to stick your head between your knees and kiss your posterior end goodbye.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

So, now that's over with, how's your bird, still having problems or have you figured out what is wrong or???
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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This was a test, this was only a test, had this been a real emergency, you would have been instructed to stick your head between your knees and kiss your posterior end goodbye.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program.

So, now that's over with, how's your bird, still having problems or have you figured out what is wrong or???
I did get it up in the air, it hovers quite nicely now. I may have damaged a servo or something though, because when i throttle up the helicopter drifts severely to the right, generally it drifted softly left from the blade torquing up so that was no issue, but now continuously flys right when in flight. Ive played with the trims so i can get it up and hovering, but whenever i try to fly it always comes back and it flys forward extremely fast and ends up upside down or flying with the nose basically Vertically to the ground. Ive examined all the parts to the best of my ability, and there is no evident damage to the servos, connecting rods, or any parts that i can visibly see. I figure i may have messed something up in my controller, but then im thinking that its a blade pitch issue so its an issue with the servos. So...i just don't really have any idea whats wrong with it. Help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:31 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I think that the harsh and swift response from the HF support team was excellent.

I think that what keeps this site so good to visit is the good support that most of the participants give each other.

Calling people names or mocking them for asking questions is counterproductive.

I can say that I have learnt much from all the contributors more and less experienced than me.

A good rule is that if you can not be polite for some reason do not respond.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Don't lose your panties ladies, I already acknowledged my comments were entirely unprovoked and inappropriate. I also apologized for them. I feel like editing them would be a cop out, not to mention pointless as about a half dozen quotes would remain.

I asked no stupid questions as all the information I could ever want or need was available on my internets.

It wasn't exactly an offense worthy of a public scolding, how about turning down that unwarranted self importance? I understand that power of any kind corrupts, making usi next to unavoidable, but I'm not a child and require no supervision to remain in line.
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:25 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't lose your panties ladies, I already acknowledged my comments were entirely unprovoked and inappropriate. I also apologized for them. I feel like editing them would be a cop out, not to mention pointless as about a half dozen quotes would remain.

I asked no stupid questions as all the information I could ever want or need was available on my internets.

It wasn't exactly an offense worthy of a public scolding, how about turning down that unwarranted self importance? I understand that power of any kind corrupts, making usi next to unavoidable, but I'm not a child and require no supervision to remain in line.
It seems from your response that you do need supervision to remain in line.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:20 AM   #26 (permalink)
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..

Last edited by zzyzx; 05-17-2012 at 07:34 AM.. Reason: doublePost
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:22 AM   #27 (permalink)
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It seems from your response that you do need supervision to remain in line.
Yeah yeah yeah, while I may agree, I'm more concerned about our helping asome50 than 'helping' zzysx see the error in his ways. If the staff think his willy needs to be whacked, figuratively speaking, they have much more interesting ways to do it than we do.

Unfortunately, I've little experience with the Genius, beyond its similarities with the Mini-CP so all I can help out with is general things to check that apply to all helis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asome50 View Post
I did get it up in the air, it hovers quite nicely now.
That's good to hear! That suggests the gyro stabilization is working to some extent at least.

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Originally Posted by asome50 View Post
I may have damaged a servo or something though, because when i throttle up the helicopter drifts severely to the right, generally it drifted softly left from the blade torquing up so that was no issue, but now continuously flys right when in flight.
Have you done a servo/swash/rotar linkage setup before and/or after the crash?

While it is possible there is an issue with a servo or the RX, not only is it better to start with the basics, mechanical setup but more so, since hovering generally requires more stabilization than moving flight, it seems less likely to be a control system issue.

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Originally Posted by asome50 View Post
Ive played with the trims so i can get it up and hovering, but whenever i try to fly it always comes back and it flys forward extremely fast and ends up upside down or flying with the nose basically Vertically to the ground. Ive examined all the parts to the best of my ability, and there is no evident damage to the servos, connecting rods, or any parts that i can visibly see. I figure i may have messed something up in my controller, but then im thinking that its a blade pitch issue so its an issue with the servos.
A crash is more likely to cause mechanical problems than electronic problems and as mechanical issues are easier to test for and identify than electronic problems and need to be eliminated as possible causes, it is usually best to start out looking for and eliminating possible mechanical issues first.

Don't worry though, even though heli's are flying stress tests and are rather more complicated than any other type of R/C model, their problems can be fairly easy to diagnose after a while. It's difficult to do it 'remotely' but as you yourself gain more experience with them, you'll find it easier to do 'locally'.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:29 AM   #28 (permalink)
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look at you, kissing phantom ass. How is posting something that has no purpose except making you look like a tool and trying to irritate me, any better than me calling some stranger a moron? You're just as disruptive, yet you do it in a lamer fashion, hoping for some kind of recognition from these "mods" you hold in such obviously high regard.

I keep myself in line according to my standards, to maintain my self respect. I care little for the arbitrary "rules" of this or any community, I contribute my knowledge far more than I come seeking assistance. I experiment and refine my methods many times over what an average person would. This forum needs as many members like me as it can get.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:43 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zzyzx View Post
look at you, kissing phantom ass. How is posting something that has no purpose except making you look like a tool and trying to irritate me, any better than me calling some stranger a moron? You're just as disruptive, yet you do it in a lamer fashion, hoping for some kind of recognition from these "mods" you hold in such obviously high regard.

I keep myself in line according to my standards, to maintain my self respect. I care little for the arbitrary "rules" of this or any community, I contribute my knowledge far more than I come seeking assistance. I experiment and refine my methods many times over what an average person would. This forum needs as many members like me as it can get.
I this I that. You are so full of yourself you blow all your credibility with your crappy attitude. All your name calling really gives the opposite impression to anyone who reads it than what you are intending I can assure you. Hopefully one day you will figure this out. Hopefully.

We have HF Support people here to keep this place running smoothly, we are knocking on 100K posts a month and it is not easy. Your approach is what is going to dictate your outcomes. If you think writing what you did above is going to gain you respect or street credibility you are mistaken.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:46 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Here's an idea:

Let us all agree to stop the side talk, get back to the OP's problem and forget the whole thing. Period.

If someone is rude again, we'll take it up then. Otherwise let's call it a done deal and get on with the business at hand.

OK everyone?
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:01 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jazzjohn View Post
Here's an idea:

Let us all agree to stop the side talk, get back to the OP's problem and forget the whole thing. Period.

If someone is rude again, we'll take it up then. Otherwise let's call it a done deal and get on with the business at hand.

OK everyone?
Sounds good! You do know it is our job to handle things such as this however. Nobody would love to see this OP get his heli flying right than us.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:05 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Sounds good! You do know it is our job to handle things such as this however.
I think JazzJohn was referring to me.

I was trying to interject a little humor but I think I misplaced my 'Dummies guide to Quantum Mechanics and Forum humor' book, although maybe that's a good thing?

Back to the OP though...

Another idea I had is to swap servo's around and see if the problem follows a specific servo or, stays constant.

If a specific servo, that would suggest a problem with 'that' or 'those' servo's, although what the exact problem is would take further investigation.

If it doesn't follow 'the' servo, it would suggest either an RX problem, although doubtful or more likely, a mechanical issue.

For what it's worth, I'd try swapping servo's before checking mechanical setup because not only is it easier and more likely to give useful results sooner but even if you do go through a mechanical setup checking things out along the way, that doesn't necessarily mean that the setup was 'perfect' so that could still be an issue.

Don't take that last part the wrong way, about a mechanical setup being 'perfect'. Not only is there reasonable doubt how much affect a 'perfect' setup has as opposed to 'close enough' but there aren't really the tools available for purchase with which one can be assured of a 'perfect' setup.

But, the hope is that something obvious would turn up that a 'close enough' setup would highlight.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:32 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I did get it up in the air, it hovers quite nicely now. I may have damaged a servo or something though, because when i throttle up the helicopter drifts severely to the right, generally it drifted softly left from the blade torquing up so that was no issue, but now continuously flys right when in flight. Ive played with the trims so i can get it up and hovering, but whenever i try to fly it always comes back and it flys forward extremely fast and ends up upside down or flying with the nose basically Vertically to the ground. Ive examined all the parts to the best of my ability, and there is no evident damage to the servos, connecting rods, or any parts that i can visibly see. I figure i may have messed something up in my controller, but then im thinking that its a blade pitch issue so its an issue with the servos. So...i just don't really have any idea whats wrong with it. Help would be appreciated.

After crashing my GCP so much that the landing gear was mangled and glued together. I noticed with mine that the receiver board was slightly askew. The frame becomes weak and begins to flex. That wreaks havoc with the gyro. I added new skids and that stiffened things up somewhat. Maybe this could be your problem.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:15 AM   #34 (permalink)
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The Rxer board must be parallel to the ground during FLIGHT in 6 axis mode to keep it from drifting. It will not be parallel to the skids (or on the ground). Adjust the board on the foam as needed.

Also an early post recommended checking pitch at midstick as zero. Keep in mind that zero pitch at mid stick only happens in stunt mode (if you have the TXer programmed that way.)

Check the servos by binding the heli and then slowly cycling the sticks in each direction to see if one sticks or jumps.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:49 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I was able to get it flying, but latley its been having some annyoing issues. Everytime i try to pick it up off the ground it isnt generating the lift to pick up once again. I spend almost all the battery jamming the throttle up as i push the cyclic stick to the up right hand corner to make it hop up. This method generally works, but once it up and flying i only have about a minute before it starts loosing power. I can flip it on and different setting and it still wont pick up. I tried it without the canopy again, and it easily is able to fly. Obviously i need something guarding my electronics while im flying so i need a way to fix this.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:58 AM   #36 (permalink)
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A couple of things to check:
  • The rotor head can not be pulled up and pushed down. If so, the shaft lock sleeve is likely not up against the bearing it is closest to or, the main shaft is not flush with the end of the main gear underneath.
  • The mechanical setup of the servo's, swash plate and rotor head is such that the servo arms are close to 90 degrees wrt the servo bodies, the swash is level and the rotor blades are at 0 degrees pitch at mid throttle position in stunt mode 1 or 2.
When working on the second part, disconnecting the main and tail motors usually is the easiest and safest. Also, when making or checking adjustments, move the 'ADJ Mode Switch' on the RX to the adjust position.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:28 AM   #37 (permalink)
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A couple of things to check:
  • The rotor head can not be pulled up and pushed down. If so, the shaft lock sleeve is likely not up against the bearing it is closest to or, the main shaft is not flush with the end of the main gear underneath.
  • The mechanical setup of the servo's, swash plate and rotor head is such that the servo arms are close to 90 degrees wrt the servo bodies, the swash is level and the rotor blades are at 0 degrees pitch at mid throttle position in stunt mode 1 or 2.
When working on the second part, disconnecting the main and tail motors usually is the easiest and safest. Also, when making or checking adjustments, move the 'ADJ Mode Switch' on the RX to the adjust position.
I had noticed a separation of the gear from the main rotor shaft. It was after a large crash i had when first starting it out. The main gear was basically slowly falling off the shaft, but i hadn't had any issues with that part of it since. All i did to correct it was hold the top of the rotor head and push the gear back up on the shaft, and generally that would work. The frame has been bending and I've noticed that the motor is kinda pulling away from the gear, but since it plastic i have no idea how to fix this without replacing the whole frame, which is much more of a hassle then i would rather have to deal with. If that is the only way to correct the fram bending then i'l buy the motor upgrade and tail upgrade along with some of the metal upgrade parts and see if i can get it stiffer.
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Old 05-23-2012, 10:58 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I had noticed a separation of the gear from the main rotor shaft. It was after a large crash i had when first starting it out. The main gear was basically slowly falling off the shaft, but i hadn't had any issues with that part of it since. All i did to correct it was hold the top of the rotor head and push the gear back up on the shaft, and generally that would work. The frame has been bending and I've noticed that the motor is kinda pulling away from the gear, but since it plastic i have no idea how to fix this without replacing the whole frame, which is much more of a hassle then i would rather have to deal with. If that is the only way to correct the fram bending then i'l buy the motor upgrade and tail upgrade along with some of the metal upgrade parts and see if i can get it stiffer.
Do you see a crack or break in the frame that is causing the motor to pull away from the gear or is it normal frame flexing with the gear mesh too loose to begin with?

If the frame is cracked, you might get away with hot glue to repair it. Otherwise, you'll have to swap out the frame which is not that big of a deal. I wouldn't bother with upgrade parts at this time. At this stage in your career, you don't need more performance than stock. You just need a properly functioning heli. Just get the heli back to new stock condition.That's the easiest route to get back in the air. If you can find someone local with experience, get their help.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:45 PM   #39 (permalink)
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There is only one part of the helicopter frame that is pretty much, destroyed. The skid on the bottom are snapped and hot glued, melted, and taped back together. Besides that there is not other noticeable issues with the frame. Everything seems to function perfectly without the canopy on, then boom, once it goes on and i throttle up it sits there. Its the weirdest thing i've seen.
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Old 05-24-2012, 03:00 PM   #40 (permalink)
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The common crack in the frame that Jazzjohn describes is almost impossible to see without a microscope. (Maybe it is just my eyes?) The crack will usually if not always be a crack from one (usually the more towards the middle of the frame) of the two screws that hold the bracket for the forward most servo. This small crack will go from that screw directly or indirectly to the center where the main shaft goes through the frame. If you have good eyes along with some magnification, you can usually flex it a bit while looking at the underbelly near the area between the servo bracket screw and the main shaft hole and spot it. Sometimes it helps to dab a bit of water on the area and wipe the outside part off. This way the water that seeped into the crack will often make the crack more visible as you flex it a bit.
I've had three frames break in this way and I know Jazzjohn had at least one fail that way. Sometimes it will be fine with that crack, and it will go un-noticed until you swap the frame because of the slid and battery holder breaks, while other times it flexes enough to cause the main gear to walk out of mesh with the motor pinion as torque increases. If this is happening, the evidence of wear on the plastic main gear should be visible.
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