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07-20-2013, 01:51 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Red Bull BO-105 CB -Blade 130X
I just picked one of these up, I might have been the first one to buy one from Rob's RC Hobbies, they have great deals on full kits.
The level of detail is very surprising, door handles and windshield wipers, that's just crazy. The 4 rotor head makes the cyclic response insane, it made me uncomfortable in high rates, whereas I normally fly everything in high rates. I'm not sure if it was batteries that had been sitting for a while or what but in normal mode the motor would bog with added collective. I used a better charged Hyperion 500 mah and flipped it into stunt mode and it made a world of difference. The first couple flights were uneventful. It seemed very gittery at first but seemed to get better, I honestly think there is a learning phase for the main board, not sure. Or the battery was loose. I had one close encounter with the ground. If it was the normal 130x tail it would have needed a rebuild, but the kicked up tail not only looks the part but lets you emergency land like the big boys, tail first. N scrape the skids, no damage! That's a big plus to the extra tail parts and complexity. There is a little window to view the E gears at the kicked up angle, that's nice, good thinking! The outer plastic boom felt very rigid n secure, a good sign. The front nose/canopy section is thin mcx canopy material, very thin n flexible. The flip up nose made it more difficult to connect and disconnect the battery but doable. The front canopy is held down/closed with magnets! I've only had 3 flight and the third was the only real flight I felt good enough to really move around. One thing that was very surprising about the way it flies n handles is the translating tendency. I am used to the right body lean. Now it's more of a severe left lean, like twice as much angle. I am not sure if its because of the position of the kicked up tail closer to the rotor disk or something else. It's a great idea and pretty well executed. The big immediate issue Blade didnt learn form the 130X or Nano is parts availability. I already want a second head for a 4th 130X and NO "red bull" parts are available yet. They should at least compensate us for bring beta testers! I have a feeling they are going to sell the hell out if the 4 rotor head, but not so many full red bull 130x bnf kits. I will let you all know more as it develops, more flights, any issues, etc. Last edited by jaybyrd; 07-20-2013 at 04:17 PM.. |
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07-20-2013, 01:53 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Here is the Red Bull cx canopy hanging on my msrx and the new Red Bull BO-105 CB (130X). Big and little! |
07-20-2013, 04:53 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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BO105 130X
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After unboxing I removed the the front nose/canopy section and the tail boom section. There are quite a bit of screws to remove in order to pull off the scale fuselage. Some of the screws don’t want to come completely out (i.e. remain in the screw hold after loosening them). Everything seemed tight (mechanics, etc.) and I didn’t have to do any real setup modifications. I just programmed my DX7S per the manual (except for the D/$ & Expo below), put in a battery and flew. I toned down the D/R & Expo for test flying a few flights. The cyclic response is very good. On takeoff you really can’t loiter around. You need to lift it up quicker than the 130X. If you don’t get it off fairly quickly the 4-blade rotor will tilt and the heli will tip over. I didn’t notice the severe left lean that jaybird did. On flying it seems not quite as quick as the 130X but I was just getting used to it. It does fly more “scale like” than the 130X (slower, not as fast), which I like. I was able to hover hands-off for about 3 or 4 seconds so it’s pretty stable in a hover. It lands more scale like also and like jaybrd said you can land it more like the big boys with a slight flare right before set down. Parts availability does seem to be an issue. I’m going ahead and ordering some spares just in case there is a shortage. I’ll have to say I was a bit hesitant to spring for $279.00 for a product which really didn’t have any reviews but Blade has some great products so I went ahead and bit the bullet. So far, after several flights, I’m glad I did.
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Blade: MCPX, 130X (3), BO-105, 200 SRX (2), 300X (4), 450X (2), T-Rex 450 Pro V2 Dx6i, Dx7s (2) |
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07-20-2013, 05:33 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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One difficulty I am having is with power n lift.
I have my timer at 3:00 which is not very long at all! You do have to take right off! Maybe get into stunt mode or either way start the blades spinning gently and blast off quick. I have had a few rough landings n 2 tip overs on landing no damage minor scrapes on a blade etc. one thing I would never do in a 130x is land in the grass, the RedBull lands darn good in the grass. It is very TAIL HEAVY so I add full forward elevator on spin down. The heli leans back n the tail rotors still clear the grass! So I took around for 0:30 n hover then pop it into stunt mode n full rates now. Mine is still twitchy, like AS3X twitchy, jerky, hard to explain. Mine is all original not taken apart or adjusted at all! So my issue in normal mode with manual settings n fully charged battery it doesn't have enough lift to get out of its own way! The added fuselage and rotor mass is too much for the motor and battery! If I get low n freak n add to much collective it bogs in a big way! One time after an easy maneuver it got so low I had to flip it into stunt mode to keep it off the ground! Adding full collective in stunt mode slows the head dramatically! It will hover inverted! It will do a very slow inverted punch out! I did pull off a few high speed inverted runs then pull up vertical than at the stall point flip the nose down vertically and pull out slow, it's as good as the air show! One guy at the store said add a better motor n it would be great, but that's what a 4 rotor 130x (beta) hybrid monster is for! |
07-20-2013, 09:28 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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now a 4 rotor 130x would be neat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am just not a fan of that fuselage style. If they offer something else I might be all over it. Seems like you like it though. |
07-20-2013, 10:17 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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So one safety factor I think is to raise the throttle curve in normal mode, Blade suggests the same numbers as the 130x (beta). I changed my normal throttle curve to 0-55-75-88-100. It helps with takeoff and landings a lot.
I also tightened all my rotors. Tightened to about all the same tightness mains n tails, loose enough to move by touch but tight enough to stay put and not move from gravity. I had my first crash! I crumbled inside as I saw it happen, I flew behind a tree, lost visual, tried to pull up and back elevator. It ended up crashing on the left side in the street. To my amazement I picked it up spun the head and am still flying! I am stunned at the crash survivability! It is rock solid! Total damage, 1 or 2 main blade 1mm nicks on the leading edge corner tips, same on both tails, scuff on the rear left side blue fuselage on the edges that stick out and the tail stabilizer. I straightened n smoothed the blade nicks and stabilizer and visually checked the main gear and B gear. I couldn't see A gear, need to remove the canopy, 9 or 12 screws. With my Hyperion vx500 mah battery I got 6:00 with my new throttle curve 100%. 2 mins in stunt mode flipping n speed passes. The rest hovering n cruising. BIGGER BATTERIES ARE A MUST! It flies very different, in a way it's a big downgrade, it reminds me to the power issues in the mCPx v2! When running low on time hitting the cyclic hard will bog the motor/head, so fly accordingly. Don't put yourself in a situation where u would need to do any emergency maneuvers they will not happen as planned or on schedule in a big way. Like u can pendulum back and forth to loose altitude. I tried turning all my gyro gains down one click. I think the gitteryness has to do with the gyro gain. The flight characteristic is when I release the cyclic the heli bounces into place, snaps into place with rebound. On elevator more n rudder slightly. About the left lean, to maintain a stationary position the body needs to lean left, left cyclic. If I level the body n rotor disk is slides right, and back slightly. Maybe adding right n rear subtrim might solve the problem? On take off and landing it leans left. Overall I am impressed. I had low expectations, so maybe that helped. A 130x beta frame or xtreme cf frame and a spin 8000 motor or lynx eox motor or hp10 and a 4 rotor head would make it hyper agile! I don't foresee a big market for aluminum 4 rotor head parts, unless someone can make it super light weight. I don't think this new frame will allow a convenient motor upgrade especially since the skid supports the frame now, dumb move! Oh! There are little red nubs on the front lower sides of the canopy, I use those to lift it open! I really wish the canopy would stay up on its own, very annoying! One interesting thing. The stabilizer actually has an airfoil! My stabilizer end fins don't seem to line up exactly square with the body, but at the same time in fast forward flight the tail doesn't have any tendency to level itself due to the airfoils on the stabilizer, maybe I'm just not going fast enough. |
07-22-2013, 01:22 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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So I decided to lower the pitch, travel adjust. I set it around 80% up and 90% down.
I don't want to bog the motor, but I want to use the full collective stick reach. It is pretty close but could go down further to 70-75% possibly for straight vertical, upward lift without the motor bogging. For inverted flight, I haven't spent enough time fine tuning it and would like the extra negative pitch just in case, it gets hairy. I was able to pull off multiple inverted high speed passes, it looks really silly doing it and I worry it might fall out of the sky. Flying this thing is like learning how to go back and use non abs brakes, you have to train you mind to let go when you want to push harder, its completely against all instinct. You really have to listen for the head to start to slow down and lower the collective towards neutral pitch/mid stick. YOU WILL LEARN COLLECTIVE MANAGEMENT! The answer: change the manual settings or put in a stronger motor, this is a no brainer! In a way the power situation is disappointing, I wonder how Chuck Aaron, Flying Bulls Pilot feels about it? If when he adds full collective, does the main rotor disk start to slow down? Really!? Is that a scale feature? I think the center of gravity is to scale! The center of gravity seems to be behind the main shaft, like where the turbine engines would be, the way it piro's and flips, makes the center of gravity stand out. Overall I do really like it and am happy with the purchase. The 4 rotor head is very interesting and the cyclic response is insane with such tiny blades. Its the best thing about the Red Bull 130X, the head 4 rotor head makes all of the trouble worth it, I hope it works as well retrofitted to the first 130X (beta) with mcpx BL blades. |
07-22-2013, 02:54 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I think this is hilarious!
Just a short time ago, HH customer service said DO NOT use subtrim on the Blade 130X. Apparently someone at Blade watched DoubleCH's video about it! Taken from page 8 of the Red Bull Manual: "Calibration Procedure To ensure your Red Bull BO-105 CB 130 X helicopter is properly confi gured to your transmitter, please go through the following calibration procedure. Only use subtrim during the calibration procedure. It is normal for the servos to move slightly back and forth at neutral. 1. Unplug the motor from the control board. 2. Plug the battery into the helicopter and ensure the model remains motionless while arming. 3. Move the throttle stick above the idlee position to activate the gyros. The servos will begin to respond to movements. Do not move the helicopter. 4. Watch for any drifting of the swashplate or tail linkage. Counter the drift on each axis with subtrim. For example, if the swashplate drifts to the right, add left aileron subtrim. If the swashplate begins to drift left, you’ve added too much subtrim. The goal is to add enough subtrim to prevent any drifting. When the calibration procedure is complete the swashplate and tail linkage will remain in a neutral position when the gyro is active and the helicopter is motionless. IMPORTANT: Moving the throttle stick back to zero will reset the gyros after 5 seconds." At least they now acknowledge it is a fix and tell us how to do it. ANY 130X OWNER WOULD DO WELL TO READ THE RED BULL 130X MANUAL, YOU WILL LEARN SOMETHING! |
07-22-2013, 03:30 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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Heh, I think you'll find that info in the addendum on the 130X docs downloadable. It has been out a while, arguably after a probably too long period since the OP about subtrimming here. DoubleCH if I am not mistaken deserves the honour.
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07-22-2013, 02:01 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I didn't look yesterday, but just looked now, and all but two of the parts show in stock at Horizonhobby.com so the NO parts available is not true today anyway.... http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...H3880#t4-PARTS RE: BLH3807 Main Rotor Hub: Red Bull 130 X This is in stock and shipping and available in the system... for some odd reason the web page does not indicate this.... 3818 look like the same situation.... So would be 100% available parts, and should show this tomorrow .... If it does not clear through overnight, I will have it looked at.... probably just being moved to a shippable stock location... (that is what the demand vs sales numbers look like....just going out) Have Fun, David
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07-22-2013, 05:51 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Thats cool, thanks for the update.
I normally get parts locally when possible, so the trickle down hasn't happened yet. I am wondering if the demand for 4 rotor heads will match supply though? Make plenty of main and tail blades as well as twice as many or more 4 rotor heads as Red Bull 130X's, skids and frames are different, as well as the new tail parts. I remember when you couldn't get a Nano CPX motor for your life. Initial parts availability for the 130X was sparse in the beginning as well, thats why my comments. I need to do the sub-trim calibration and I think that will fix my lean and possibly bounciness. I'll report back later tonight possibly. |
07-22-2013, 06:15 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Dang! $46 for the complete rotor head, ouch, I guess it doubled in cost and complexity. Does it offer twice the cyclic response, hmm close possibly? With mcpx BL blades?
You could get an all metal DFC head and swash bling for that price. I wonder what the weight of the head is, maybe I will take mine off and find out. Good thing the head is pretty robust, so far, I popped off one grip ball link off the inner swash, in a minor side crash on the street, no biggie, still flying un touched, I am actually kind of surprised at that fact. |
07-24-2013, 06:47 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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hello have you looked at that out runner motor for the 130x mite be what that jelly bean needs just got my black hawk just waiting to get my dx6i back to give it a go. looks real nice, but ID hate to crash it, looks like a lot of work , fixing the tail gears, like all these little guys ,ordered it mon night got today from t hobbies very fast shipping. ordered the out runner for the bl,just need to find pinion. hope blade make more fuselages .like to see it in a md500 fuz. waiting to see what you guys come up with before I get one
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07-24-2013, 07:00 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Honestly I really don't like the Blackhawk or the company that makes them. I think somebody copied somebody else.
I think Blade has the better full size heli to copy, since it actually does aerobatics, no blackhawk does aerobatics. I might be a better known helicopter buy whatever. So you will have to tell us how you like it, Pert! I crashed mine easy on the side in the street and its held up with no fixes. Im over a dozen flights now, so besides the lack of power it's pretty awesome. It makes you fly scale, not 3D. I am thinking about getting an Orange Tx that is compatible with spectrum, its half the cost, that way I have a computerized 6 channel Tx as a backup. |
07-24-2013, 09:04 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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it dont look like it will crash good seen a review on the orange, very good have a dx7 but my son in laws using it . I will be flying it easy. blade helis can take a good hit. this one wont. have fun
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07-29-2013, 08:38 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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What are overall opinion on Red Bull as scale? I don't fly 3D or sports. I have 130x already with Glacier 450 mah lipos so this will be good second 130x for me.
Does it still have slob on tail assembly, bearings and vibrations? I fix these issues on 130x by going with after market tail case, tail grips...etc and it got expensive really fast. Don't want to go through this again on Red Bull. |
07-29-2013, 06:43 PM | #17 (permalink) |
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The good thing about the new Red Bull 130X is the outer plastic tail boom. It adds weight, but also adds a lot of stability to the carbon fiber inner boom. The tail definitely crashes better.
I read that there is a new bump/slot thing on the tail case, that slots into a place in the outer plastic boom. Its backwards compatible but an old tail case might be loose in the outer plastic boom. Also I don't think you can really add an aftermarket tail case since the outer plastic boom supports the cf boom and holds the kicked up angle of the tail. A, B, C and D gears remain the same, at the kicked up tail angle there are 2 more E gears. So there are 2 more gears to drive the tail. I think overall for scale its above average for something you could buy like it. Crashing and maintenance have gone up versus the 130X. The level of detail is pretty good, but some serious ocd folks could do better. For something you can buy that has that much attention to detail is impressive. Its not for a beginner, it is more challenging to fly than the 130X. The lack of power is okay for scale flying, but it will teach you collective management, or at least how to adjust your pitch travel down so you can't bog the motor. The 4 rotor head is awesome and more robust than the 2 blade design, it can take twice as hard a beating, or more. I am happy with my purchase, but also really like the 130X and have 2 already, this is my 3rd. I want to do a 4th 4 rotor hybrid 130X soon. |
08-01-2013, 07:39 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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Knowing how labor intensive the 130X is ( I own two of them) I am on the fence about getting one at this point. I am waiting to see how the beta testing fairs out before I jump in LOL….
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08-01-2013, 11:44 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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I think most of the kinks have been worked out. I didn't have any servos die or the tail get outa wack, or even need to add thicker grommets to the swash.
I pretty much opener it up and have been flying it. I think the only real down side is the low power level that will keep you on your toes. The added complexity of dealing with the fuselage and tail go along with the scale territory. The boom makes the tail that much more rigid and really helps keeps the tail rotors off the ground, so it's a fair trade off. I had no or low expectations and have been pleasently surprised. The cool factor is off the charts, it would make a great addition to the 130x family! |
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130x, 4 rotor head, red bull |
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