enjoying my 90

[I itchy I]

well hear is my vision 90 , theirs no blades on it as i was testing the engine but now the starter is slipping so i need to pull the engine out , but it gives me an excuse to order the metal fan .

[b_s_chance]

looks real good man! i love mine..and i have to say it crashes very well! i had the hardest crash ive ever seen and was minimal damage. and she hit the ground with a hard thud on the right side hard enough to break the regulator and cooling fins on the head of my 91hzr lol if u have trouble with vibes from the motor pm me and ill give u the run down on how to perfectly line the motor up!

[b_s_chance]

also those starter couplings are soft as hell make sure u lock the set screws on the 2 apportioned flats on the starter shaft

[I itchy I]

my problem is the fan hub , its the second time its started to slip on the engine shaft so ive orderd a new one and a metal fan , hopefully this should sort it ,

[b_s_chance]

i never used the stock fan , but i may be wrong, but they use the same center hub just the metal fan is all that gets changed from plastic..if you dont have a crank shaft locking tool remove the carb and use the non business end on a tooth brush to hold the crank still while u tighten the crap out of the prop nut..i blue loc-tite mine and then tighten the 2 clamp bolts at base of fan hub..

[I itchy I]

i really did tighten it up as much as i could , dont know why it just slipped and its worn a little bit so i just orderd another one and hope this time it stays tight .

[wifeorheli?]

The major issue people are having with the ElyQ helicopters both 600 and 700 is getting the clutch / motor alignment perfect. With it out of whack just a little will cause MAJOR issues from vibrations / fbl unit acting wierd / electronics failure ect.... Getting this aligned is a EXTREMLEY important step and you need to take EXTRA time with this. If you goto the ElyQ USA support website and goto the V50c or V50e section it explains in detail how to properly do this. If you need anything what so ever regaurding the Ely.Q lineup please contact me!

[I itchy I]

i didnt have a vibe problem or a cluch problem it was the fan hub just kept coming loose so it just slips on the engine shaft no matter how much i thightend the bolt to the engine , ive replaced the fan and hub now for a lynx turbo fan and replaced the hub seems to hold now .

[PlaneHazza]

Wow didn't realise there were engine alignment issues. I'm heading over there right now. Mine's been having real bad vibes recently.

http://www.teamrcheliworks.com/pages...alignment.html

I've already done the suggested steps (I always install engines that way) and I still have vibes. Maybe I need to do it again...

I don't understand how he's using a caliper to set the clutch stack? It's a little vague

[ChadL]

Originally Posted by PlaneHazza

I don't understand how he's using a caliper to set the clutch stack? It's a little vague

I think those instructions are written with the Vision 50 in mind even though it states vision 90. The vision 50 has slotted screw holes for the clutch stack whereas the 90 doesn't. There's not much aligning you can do with the 90 since the holes in the frames aren't slotted and the engine can only move vertically.

Due to the tolerances in the engine mount screws and engine screw holes you can have some lateral play. When I installed my engine I made sure the clutch bell could spin freely around the clutch. If you can spin you clutch bell freely you should theoretically have your engine aligned. I snugged the clutch stack screws and engine mount screws (just making contact with the frame and engine). I then bumped the starter a few times while tightening everything down. Seemed to work well. If you do the starter method it's important to take the glow plug out. If you don't the compression will cause the motor to torque to one side and not line up properly.

The gap between the clutch and clutch bell is important. I think the ElyQ tips document recommends a gap of 1mm.

http://www.elyq.com/pdf/vision90comp...ricks_v90c.pdf

[b_s_chance]

have to argee with chad...pull the glow plug and do it again. i tighten the bolts just enough to where the motor can barely move then bump it with a starter...then the 4 blots that hold the motor to the two mount blocks i crank down after removeing 1 at a time and blue loc tighting.then i bump with a starter again and then tighten down the 4 larger bolts that hold the motor in the frame. when u do that use your starter wand to spin the motor by hand...the reason for this is you will be able to feal any and all resistance from clutch...this method has worked for me on the first shot every time! when i first got my 90 i had th do it like 3 or 4 times till i got it right and then i used this method and shazam lol

[PlaneHazza]

Originally Posted by ChadL

I think those instructions are written with the Vision 50 in mind even though it states vision 90. The vision 50 has slotted screw holes for the clutch stack whereas the 90 doesn't. There's not much aligning you can do with the 90 since the holes in the frames aren't slotted and the engine can only move vertically.

Due to the tolerances in the engine mount screws and engine screw holes you can have some lateral play. When I installed my engine I made sure the clutch bell could spin freely around the clutch. If you can spin you clutch bell freely you should theoretically have your engine aligned. I snugged the clutch stack screws and engine mount screws (just making contact with the frame and engine). I then bumped the starter a few times while tightening everything down. Seemed to work well. If you do the starter method it's important to take the glow plug out. If you don't the compression will cause the motor to torque to one side and not line up properly.

The gap between the clutch and clutch bell is important. I think the ElyQ tips document recommends a gap of 1mm.

http://www.elyq.com/pdf/vision90comp...ricks_v90c.pdf

Thanks. This is exactly what I do, but I did not know it had to be 1mm prior to this, but I had just eyeballed a gap between the top of the clutch and the clutch bell - ideally there should be a washer or a shim there to do this for us.

Another question. Say I have the engine fitted and aligned, and I need to adjust the RMP sensor mount. If I undo the two bolts on that side, but leave the two on the other, will they hold the motor in place or will it go out of alignment? I do this to get perfect sensor mounting so I'm wondering if in doing so I am affecting the engine alignment.

So I install the clutch stack, tighten it all up with perfect gear mesh, and THEN install the engine? Or install the engine with the clutch stack still relatively loose and tighten everything up once the mesh is right AND the engine is aligned? I thought I was doing it right, I just want to be sure as these vibrations are annoying the hell out of me. My model is about 50 flights old (which is a lot for me haha). I have a slight amount of play in the top main shaft bearing, so I'm going to change it. How often should I change them generally?

This forum needs a thanks/reputation system!

[ChadL]

Originally Posted by PlaneHazza

Thanks. This is exactly what I do, but I did not know it had to be 1mm prior to this, but I had just eyeballed a gap between the top of the clutch and the clutch bell - ideally there should be a washer or a shim there to do this for us.

Another question. Say I have the engine fitted and aligned, and I need to adjust the RMP sensor mount. If I undo the two bolts on that side, but leave the two on the other, will they hold the motor in place or will it go out of alignment? I do this to get perfect sensor mounting so I'm wondering if in doing so I am affecting the engine alignment.

As long as you leave the other two screws firmly tightened the engine should remain in place.

So I install the clutch stack, tighten it all up with perfect gear mesh, and THEN install the engine? Or install the engine with the clutch stack still relatively loose and tighten everything up once the mesh is right AND the engine is aligned? I thought I was doing it right, I just want to be sure as these vibrations are annoying the hell out of me.

I highlighted the procedure that works well. If you can, use a starter while tightening everything down as it well help to align everything. It may take a few attempts, but you'll get there.


My model is about 50 flights old (which is a lot for me haha). I have a slight amount of play in the top main shaft bearing, so I'm going to change it. How often should I change them generally?

Are you 100% positive you have engine vibes? I recently had to change my torque tube bearing mounts (rubber pieces) as one started to fall apart and I was getting crazy vibes. I thought it was the engine until I finally broke down and pulled the boom off and saw the rubber pieces.

I'm not suggesting you have the same issue, just that the vibes you're seeing may be from other sources. Unless of course you have the classic "tells" for engine vibes like foaming fuel.

I've read others having bearing issues. I've got quite a few flights on mine and the bearings are holding together well. Honestly I don't know what is generally good practice for replacement. Seems to be inconsistent with ElyQ. Definitely check, if it's a bad bearing that's definitely one source of vibes.


This forum needs a thanks/reputation system!

I entered answers into your post.

[PlaneHazza]

Originally Posted by ChadL

I entered answers into your post.

Thanks mate, much appreciated. Sounds like I'm already not a million miles from that technique but there's a few extra things you've suggested I can try.

In other news, how are you finding the CGY750? I've just got another so both my 50 and 90 are on CGY'd now Moving the BeastX to my Fusion.

BTW, I enjoyed NE when I was over. Huhot's the Mongolian buffet place... wow. I NEED one of those here in the UK!

[ChadL]

Originally Posted by PlaneHazza

Thanks mate, much appreciated. Sounds like I'm already not a million miles from that technique but there's a few extra things you've suggested I can try.

In other news, how are you finding the CGY750? I've just got another so both my 50 and 90 are on CGY'd now Moving the BeastX to my Fusion.

BTW, I enjoyed NE when I was over. Huhot's the Mongolian buffet place... wow. I NEED one of those here in the UK!

Huhot is yummy.

I've had some of the well documented challenges with the CGY since updating to version 1.2. Even with the challenges I still like the CGY a lot. Especially with the Futaba 8fg radio. Hopefully they'll get a fix for the v1.2 issues soon. I keep hearing chatter that somethings coming, but I'm not holding my breath.

[PlaneHazza]

Originally Posted by ChadL

Huhot is yummy.

I've had some of the well documented challenges with the CGY since updating to version 1.2. Even with the challenges I still like the CGY a lot. Especially with the Futaba 8fg radio. Hopefully they'll get a fix for the v1.2 issues soon. I keep hearing chatter that somethings coming, but I'm not holding my breath.

I managed 3 1/2 bowls, but I couldn't move afterwards. The beef and pork - damn they were good. I want to go back to Nebraska just for that place haha.

Yeah I agree. It's stupidly complex to set up and get working right compared to beastX, but I can use all of the gov and gyro menus with it and it has a built in governor so no need for a standalone unit - less wires!

Which problems are you getting with 1.2? I haven't flown 1.2 yet, but I've reduced my D gain to 100% on both cylic axis, and put I gain to 60% so looking forward to trying it out.

Are you running bellcranks on yours? With bellcranks, no matter what I did I could not get enough resolution to get above 44% on pitch AFR, and around 52% on cyclics. I'm now in the low 60s since converted to direct to servo

[ChadL]

Originally Posted by PlaneHazza

I managed 3 1/2 bowls, but I couldn't move afterwards. The beef and pork - damn they were good. I want to go back to Nebraska just for that place haha.

Yeah I agree. It's stupidly complex to set up and get working right compared to beastX, but I can use all of the gov and gyro menus with it and it has a built in governor so no need for a standalone unit - less wires!

Which problems are you getting with 1.2? I haven't flown 1.2 yet, but I've reduced my D gain to 100% on both cylic axis, and put I gain to 60% so looking forward to trying it out.

Are you running bellcranks on yours? With bellcranks, no matter what I did I could not get enough resolution to get above 44% on pitch AFR, and around 52% on cyclics. I'm now in the low 60s since converted to direct to servo

3 bowls...damn...you eat like an american

V 1.2 really makes the heli shake and wobble quite a bit. There seems to be some issues with the firmware regarding the I and D gains. You have to mess with D and I gains for both aileron and elevator as well as overall aileron and elevator gains to get rid of the wobbles. However, no matter what I try I still have the wobbles. Very frustrating.

Odd regarding your bellcranks. I don't recall what exactly my AFRs are, but I do know I have good resolution at 8 degrees of cyclic. I like the bellcrank setup, but DSD is sooooo much easier.

[PlaneHazza]

Thanks. I'll test the settings, and if I get a wobble and get rid of it I'll let you know mate

Maybe some of these links may help you?

http://www.rcheliaddict.co.uk/futaba...y750-tips.html

[PlaneHazza]

Flew the v50 yesterday and it flew like a bag of rusty hammers. Crazy vibes all over the place, making the model want to tip over on the ground (compensation directions were confirmed correct).

Need to do the alignment again on this model.

[wifeorheli?]

Motor alignment on the v50c is CRUCIAL to getting thisthing flying good. I have been flying the v50c exscusivly for the past 2 years and not been able to TOTALLY get rid of the vibes. Im also running the novarossi 57hr-3ds which is a BEAST but a real rough running motor. I have learned to deal with the vibes as long as i have no bad signs showing up on my fbl unit. ALSO!! PLEASE check the lower beaing in the block of the clutch stack. The one where the clutch bell and pinion is mounted on. This bearing becomes loose in the block allowing everything to be loose. This block i have found to a item that needs replacing regularly. Sux as it takes forever to get too but the bearing must be tight with no play. I have tried to mod this block putting four screws around it to try to keep it tight but it ends up wearing out and becomming loose again