Will vibration get better as engine breaks in?

[guyguerra]

I just maidened my Gaui NX7 today and there is a good bit of vibration. I didn't run the head speed up to see if it gets better. It's not terrible, but just enough to affect my FBL causing the servos to jitter. Before I start putting time into trying to find the cause, does motors run smoother and cause less vibration after a few tanks of gas?

[Dawiev]

Hi, engine also new and needles at factory / break-in settings ?

If so, yes, it will run "rough", splutter and vibrate. Once you're through the break-in procedure and get the carb optimal, it smooths out.

Don't lean it out too soon to get rid of the vibes !!

Needless to say, everything needs to bed in too, from the head to the gears, tail etc. no different here from the electrics.

Ps. Obviously as it all settles down and the headspeed goes up, the tail will settle down too and then you can start tuning that.

[guyguerra]

Thats what I was hoping. I didn't want to get into trouble shooting yet.
Thanks,
Guy

[mqowen]

I have broken in 3 engines this year. All of mine got better with vibes after a good breakin.

[guyguerra]

The engine is broken in now and I've flown 3 gallons of fuel through it. The vibrations did improve as I leaned out the motor, but there was a second problem. The thick foam adhesive tape that comes with the Bavarian Demon came off today, causing a tense minute and an auto rotation. When I replaced the tape with the regular 3M adhesive that I normally use all vibration ended.

[mqowen]

Originally Posted by guyguerra

The engine is broken in now and I've flown 3 gallons of fuel through it. The vibrations did improve as I leaned out the motor, but there was a second problem. The thick foam adhesive tape that comes with the Bavarian Demon came off today, causing a tense minute and an auto rotation. When I replaced the tape with the regular 3M adhesive that I normally use all vibration ended.

Wow. Awesome. Glad to hear of the good ending.

[Rob43]

Happy ending.

I've also seen when breaking in a tight engine, that the tail will drift as the power strokes are so rough. That too goes away quickly as the tolerances smooth out.

[racer713]

Just put my 700N in the dirt, because the vibes took out my ball link on the aileron..... Before that I lost the: SET Pin (holds the tail slider ON THE ROD) Luckily... prior to taking off...I saw I had no TAIL CONTROL)

The elevator screw came out on one side 15min before the aileron let loose...

Blue lock-tite is your friend...... I may use RED lock tite on all the REALLY important stuff.

This is my 1st helicopter..... 1st flights ect ect.....
I have a os 105 brkn in...almost 1 gallon through it...

It has been a learning experience to say the least....

[guyguerra]

Locktite is critical. The locktite that comes from Gaui is really good stuff, seems a little tighter than other blue locktite that I've used. I would not recommend red unless it's a part you won't have to repair. Also, the Gaui round head screws strip easily so do avoid red on those. Even with blue, I have to put my solder iron on some of them to loosen them up so they don't strip.

[Rob43]

I've been using Lynx LX5242 Medium Strength thread locking compound. It is serious stuff. It's stronger than some red permanent compounds I've used. For the nitro bird, it's ideal. Incredibly strong retention. Better have good wrenches and high quality fasteners to remove it!

[guyguerra]

Lynx is my favorite also, though the Gaui seems the same or better. Both are as good as it gets. I've seen some locktite that was worthless. There is a difference between brands.