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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 06-22-2015, 04:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default LiPo switch for 3GX programming

Hi forum, (posted also in DIY section)

I'm just about to program my 3GX again, post "ground incident" and wondered if anyone had tried to make a switch up that makes connecting the LiPo easy?

I was thinking an inline table lamp switch between the LiPo and the ESC... and yes, I know they're only 2-5A rated at 240v, but I'm not going to be flying with it... Just purely to enable on/off during programming.

Any ideas??

Ta

Ian
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I read a post on rcgroups where someone made a similar switch. It should work fine. Its a pain to connect the battery and get to the button fast enough on the 3gx.
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Crude, but works great
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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That looks good, and also gets round the limits of having a low current switch I guess.

It really is a pain because the "SET" button on my heli is in the small window on the underside of the chassis. I tried to shift it up to just behind the swash, as per the manual, position 2... but then the ESC throttle lead isn't long enough (humph)

Cheers anyway.

I'll have a go at one of these
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Old 06-22-2015, 11:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I use a receiver pack and switch harness. Then do ESC calibration later.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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That also, is a grand idea! I might have one in the loft. (attic) 😉

Cheers!
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Old 06-22-2015, 05:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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They sell servo extensions just for that purpose of extending the Throttle servo lead just a bit. Very cheap part.

The stock ESC throttle lead will reach the desired position if you run it right from the ESC plate directly underneath the passenger side servo (inside the frame). I mean literally touching the underside of the servo and straight back to the FBL.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yep, got a good selection of extensions... but just prefer to not use them if at all possible. I did look at the route you describe for the lead too... but in the end... just went for the old position.

It all got plugged in last night again, and it's a nightmare to get to the 3GX to plug stuff in lol. Neat and tidy though... just need to program again.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Tis done... 10A switch in a project box. Superb and miles easier.

I do have a weird twitch though on the heli now its rebuilt. No idea what that is as no expense spared in rebuild... Every bearing checked and shaft replaced. 3GX? I upgraded to v5 while out. I dunno.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Wow! Well done. Think I'm going to build my own.

I'm also struggeling with the 3GX setup and trying to connect a male and a female EC3 with my just left hand. It's a pain even though my 3GX is on the top platform of both of my 3GX equipped helis.

When I first saw your request in post#1 I thought it may be a bad idea because one could forget to remove the switch and fly with it by accident. So it was good idea to make it that big so nobody will forget to remove it.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Works a treat, trust me! Next job is to make up some Deans to XT60 leads, for the 3s HK450. Makes it so much easier!

3GX loaded with v4 firmware again btw, and my 450L is back in business!

Have fun,

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Old 06-26-2015, 05:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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... Oh, and the stubby blades... They work brilliant for setting up the pitch! Minor tweak with tracking when full sized ones fitted. Safer too I think. Not a complete waste of trashed 360's
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Old 07-19-2015, 02:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here's mine... simple but it works. I'm not using the 3GX anymore but it still comes in handy while programming any FBL- not having to keep connection/disconnecting the battery.
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