What's up with the Lynx 230S frame and servo placement?

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by Mike680

I'd find a better way to route that front servo wire. It's pulled pretty darned tight. So tight that the rubber strain relief grommet at the servo case is bending over. That's asking for trouble.

+1 Can't you run inside the cf, zip tie to the one small exposed metal piece, continue inside cf, once back by servos, exit down? Not around the boom mount block, before it. Or if there is a small gap in the boom mount block between bolts, slide in there? Other two servo wires are awkwardly routed as well. You should loop over and go straight down toward the servo arms.

What adjustment had to be made for the front servo to not interfere with the bearing block?

[adjday]

Originally Posted by jrman83

+1 Can't you run inside the cf, zip tie to the one small exposed metal piece, continue inside cf, once back by servos, exit down? Not around the boom mount block, before it. Or if there is a small gap in the boom mount block between bolts, slide in there? Other two servo wires are awkwardly routed as well. You should loop over and go straight down toward the servo arms.

What adjustment had to be made for the front servo to not interfere with the bearing block?

There is some space between the two back servos that you can pass the forward servo wire through. The strain i placed on the forward servo is not as bad as it looks. But i really didnt want to fumble with zip ties next to the rear servo horns. As for the rear servos, you kinda need to route those cables back away from the main gear and then back forward beside the AR636 to get them plugged into the forward facing fbl. Plenty of cable to do this....hence the birds nest.

As for setting up the ELEV thro to not hit the upper bearing block, i had to lower the upper end of my pitch a little so it wouldn't bind. Currently @ 90% on the high side with 100% throttle. I tryed everything including Travel Adj, but that didnt do a thing, so i sacrificed my pitch.

Shure would be nice if some one could hack the AR636....or make a belt conversion for this bird. Im thinking a swap out for the Oxy 2 or 3 would be the smart move.

[Mike680]

Originally Posted by adjday

Im thinking a swap out for the Oxy 2 or 3 would be the smart move.

Those are real hobbyist helis and in a totally different class. The 230S is a plastic toy that actually flies pretty well for what it is and I'm glad I decided to keep mine that way. The only extra metal doodads on mine are the swash and tail motor mount and even those really aren't absolutely needed. The 230S is exactly what a Blade heli should be out of the box. Plastic, simple, light, cheap/easy to fix, reliable and fun to fly.

[jrman83]

Originally Posted by adjday

There is some space between the two back servos that you can pass the forward servo wire through. The strain i placed on the forward servo is not as bad as it looks. But i really didnt want to fumble with zip ties next to the rear servo horns. As for the rear servos, you kinda need to route those cables back away from the main gear and then back forward beside the AR636 to get them plugged into the forward facing fbl. Plenty of cable to do this....hence the birds nest.

As for setting up the ELEV thro to not hit the upper bearing block, i had to lower the upper end of my pitch a little so it wouldn't bind. Currently @ 90% on the high side with 100% throttle. I tryed everything including Travel Adj, but that didnt do a thing, so i sacrificed my pitch.

Shure would be nice if some one could hack the AR636....or make a belt conversion for this bird. Im thinking a swap out for the Oxy 2 or 3 would be the smart move.

Okay. I think I would drill small holes in the CF if it doesn't have any way to tie the cables down properly while running next to things like the main gear. All kit helis run cables very close to moving pieces, but they have spots in the CF that allow to hold away with tie-wraps. No offense, but the cable routing looks horrible.

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by jrman83

+1 Can't you run inside the cf, zip tie to the one small exposed metal piece, continue inside cf, once back by servos, exit down? Not around the boom mount block, before it. Or if there is a small gap in the boom mount block between bolts, slide in there? Other two servo wires are awkwardly routed as well. You should loop over and go straight down toward the servo arms.

What adjustment had to be made for the front servo to not interfere with the bearing block?

That sounds like the routing I took
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...62&postcount=7
When I can get round to it, I'm going to move the receiver back a little as it's very close to the bottom of the main shaft

I still haven't flown mine yet due to work and holidays, tbh I lost some interest in it after all of the problems with the Lynx frame.

I'm still not happy with the reversed receiver and the compromises it brings, I'm going to try reversing the internal wiring on a spare servo that I bought, use this for the elevator and I think with just a left/right swap on the rear servo plugs, this should allow the correct RX placement, stock head and totally stock TX settings (I've been away from it for a month or so, so I need to check my theories!)

[Mike680]

So glad I waited and didn't get this Lynx frame. Now, if I decide on a carbon frame, I'll just get the 250CFX one (or the entire heli) for the improved CFX servo geometry. People are reporting that a 230S model file works perfectly on the 250CFX with no servo reversing, etc needed and the AR636 unit mounts in the same direction.

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by Mike680

So glad I waited and didn't get this Lynx frame. Now, if I decide on a carbon frame, I'll just get the 250CFX one (or the entire heli) for the improved CFX servo geometry. People are reporting that a 230S model file works perfectly on the 250CFX with no servo reversing, etc needed and the AR636 unit mounts in the same direction.

Kick me when I'm down

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by Mike680

So glad I waited and didn't get this Lynx frame. Now, if I decide on a carbon frame, I'll just get the 250CFX one (or the entire heli) for the improved CFX servo geometry. People are reporting that a 230S model file works perfectly on the 250CFX with no servo reversing, etc needed and the AR636 unit mounts in the same direction.

Have you got any links to these reports, I've read the ones that say the TX file works without reversing, but couldn't find anyone who have tried an RX file between the 2 models

[Mike680]

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Have you got any links to these reports, I've read the ones that say the TX file works without reversing, but couldn't find anyone who have tried an RX file between the 2 models

What's an RX file? The only files you can swap between models are in the TX. The only thing that can be loaded on the AR636 are firmware updates if any are available.

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by Mike680

What's an RX file? The only files you can swap between models are in the TX. The only thing that can be loaded on the AR636 are firmware updates if any are available.

Sorry I wasn't clear, for RX = receiver.... I should've wrote AR636...

I'll re-quote myself

Have you got any links to these reports, I've read the ones that say the TX file works without reversing, but couldn't find anyone who have tried an AR636H file between the 2 models

In the post I read, Bill mentioned 250X AR636H firmware is 4.32 vs 230S is 4.23, but I'm not sure if it's available to download and if anyone has tried the 250x's 4.32 firmware in a 230s's AR636H

[Mike680]

Originally Posted by toys2cars2toys

Sorry I wasn't clear, for RX = receiver.... I should've wrote AR636...

Yeah, I know what RX means.

In the post I read, Bill mentioned 250X AR636H firmware is 4.32 vs 230S is 4.23, but I'm not sure if it's available to download and if anyone has tried the 250x's 4.32 firmware in a 230s's AR636H

Not possible for the home user. Spektrum doesn't make full firmware versions available to be downloaded at home. Only updates. That's why when people ordered the AR636 unit, even right from the 230S parts page, they had to immediately send it back to get reloaded because all of the separately sold units came with airplane firmware from the factory by default. I read somewhere they they don't want the entire firmware available because someone could crack the SAFE part and start cloning units. Don't know if that's true or not, though.

[toys2cars2toys]

Originally Posted by Mike680

Yeah, I know what RX means.



Not possible for the home user. Spektrum doesn't make full firmware versions available to be downloaded at home. Only updates. That's why when people ordered the AR636 unit, even right from the 230S parts page, they had to immediately send it back to get reloaded because all of the separately sold units came with airplane firmware from the factory by default. I read somewhere they they don't want the entire firmware available because someone could crack the SAFE part and start cloning units. Don't know if that's true or not, though.

Originally Posted by Mike680

So glad I waited and didn't get this Lynx frame. Now, if I decide on a carbon frame, I'll just get the 250CFX one (or the entire heli) for the improved CFX servo geometry. People are reporting that a 230S model file works perfectly on the 250CFX with no servo reversing, etc needed and the AR636 unit mounts in the same direction.

My bad, I must be getting mixed up with what you are saying

I thought that you were saying "Take a 230s and upgrade it using the frame from a 250X, using all of the 230s electronics"

That would be a great option, but.....
I don't think that the AR636H from a 230S (with 230s firmware) would work in a 250x frame, as some of the servo orientations are different

So my next thought was (and I thought this is what you were getting at)....Take the AR636H from the 230s and apply a 250x firmware upgrade to it, but..
- I don't know if the 250X AR636H firmware is available yet
- or if it can be loaded into an AR636H from a 230S
- and even if it can, does this then give the correct operation for a 250x frame

All theories for me, I don't have any answers

[adjday]

My thoughts were that "I all ready Invested some money for this frame. So I'll just fly it till I need to go back to the stock frame".

It fly's just fine. Yes...it's not ideal, but it does work. And like Mike mentioned....just better to stay stock and don't invest to much money or brain capacity to this one....she is not worth it.

Pretty much a Blade proprietary product with this one.....if at most, we might be able to drop in the 250 motor.

[naga]

The Lynx frame sounds like a major pain which is unusual for Lynx products.

If you want a 230s carbon fibre frame, why not get one from Rakon instead of messing with the Blade 250 and Rx? It seems to avoid all these complicated workarounds.

I am putting one together now, looks very well made. I have not flown it yet though.

Am I missing something here?

[Mike680]

Originally Posted by naga

The Lynx frame sounds like a major pain which is unusual for Lynx products.

If you want a 230s carbon fibre frame, why not get one from Rakon instead of messing with the Blade 250 and Rx? It seems to avoid all these complicated workarounds.

I am putting one together now, looks very well made. I have not flown it yet though.

Am I missing something here?

Well, because Lynx is generally known for being the best of the "big three" (Lynx, Rakon, Microheli, in that order) when it comes to aftermarket parts for micro helis. Also, the Lynx servo geometry is much better than having all three cyclic servos with different length pushrods. Too bad it didn't work out better when actually implemented, though. But, in the end, it does work if you're willing to do what it takes.

[naga]

I agree that Lynx is usually the best, and I preferentially buy Lynx.

However in this case it seems that the Lynx 230 frame is not the best.

Reading through the thread I am amazed at the complex workaround everyone needs to do.

In contrast the Rakon frame is a great frame and there is no need for all this rigmarole.

I guess I am lucky. Lynx was too late to the party with their frame for me and I had already bought the Rakon offering. Looks like I lucked out! Phew!

[Mike680]

Originally Posted by naga

However in this case it seems that the Lynx 230 frame is not the best.

That's why I said "generally".

[heinz9]

Is the somewhat confusing and different servo set up worth the hassle though? Just wondering because I have a Lynx frame ready to go. According to the directions from Lynx they make the claim that the new servo layout is based on the Oxy3 and will give the 230s "superior fly characteristics". If this is the case it may be worth the hassle.

[adjday]

I have been using it and minus the setting up difficulties, it fly's just the same as it did with the stock frame. Now, the frame is very rigid and crash results in no damage what so ever to it.....so far...(3 and counting)...not even a stripped gear.

But that being said...I'll keep it until it takes that one crash where a new frame is needed, and then return back to stock.

Oh and to answer your question...it still fly's just like a 230(cf)s

[heinz9]

Originally Posted by adjday

I have been using it and minus the setting up difficulties, it fly's just the same as it did with the stock frame. Now, the frame is very rigid and crash results in no damage what so ever to it.....so far...(3 and counting)...not even a stripped gear.

But that being said...I'll keep it until it takes that one crash where a new frame is needed, and then return back to stock.

Oh and to answer your question...it still fly's just like a 230(cf)s

So, If no improvements in flying characteristics as claimed by Lynx then it's probably not worth the extra work and time that is necessary for the upgrade using their product. Might as well go with a Rakon or Microheli cf frame if you want to upgrade. This won't help me now since I already have a Lynx frame on hand but it might help others deciding on what to purchase.