Just bought a Mini Titan

[clicky]

Originally Posted by Danimal

The way I determined witch pinion to use to get the HS I was after was by temps. I tried different ones and set up my HS with a optical tack and governer settings. Get the number I was looking for. Then put it up in IU 1 for a full 5 min. flight. Then check motor and ESC temps as soon as I landed. I found that running a flat 90% TC so that there was some head room for the governor. And letting the motor run at close to 100% output under load. It would always come down cooler than if I tried dialing it back.

LOL - for with his ESC. Even on 2KW motor, on 475mm blades, at around 50-60% throttle (governed) those ESCs barely increase temperature.

Anyway - definitively get 12T and 13T and try them both. I found out that 2800-3000RPM is more than adequate for what I'm doing and 12T does it perfectly. With 13T I had slightly shorter fly times (same time more mAh) so since I don't need to push hs over 3000RPM anyway I decided to stay at 12T. It works like a charm...

Here is where you can check it: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZ8IS6YzL60&list=UUpK0mMatjnuBjrj8t_Z4wcg& index=2&feature=plcp[/ame]

It is Scorpion 2221-8 V2 with 12T and Align's 35A on it...

When I get home I'll run it through Audacity to check the HS or if you do it sooner let me know! It is roughly run around 85-95% (would need transmitter to check - who's going to remember all the throttle curves of all helicopters! LOL )

[wbefield]

I've got 11T, 12t, 13t, 14t pinions on the way. After reading here, I think I'll start low and work my way up so I'll have a good feel of the MT at all flyable head speeds and then decide what HS i want to run. Also waiting for new capacitors for my YGE 60A.. One of the caps got dinged up in a crash so I need to solder a new one on there.

I'm out of the crashing stage of learning but I'm almost ready to start working on inverted hovering so I betcha I'm about to be in the crashing stage again. For this reason, I'm gonna keep it cheap on the FBL head. The Tarot 450 head is only $30 bucks, so if I wreck it, I can just pop another new head on there if I have to. Maybe by the time, I get inverted figured out they will have the MT fbl conversion kits on the market.

I really don't want to drill out my beautiful metal swash to fit Trex450 balls, so I'll try MT ball links on the bottom of the swash to blade grip linkages.

I'll have my MT tommorrow!! can't wait.

[Phreak Out]

Originally Posted by wbefield

very good.. thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction..

See, I told you there were great folks here!

It's almost Thursday!

[wbefield]

Well, It got dropped off by Phreak Out on Thursday.(Thanks Bud!).
Last nite did the usual take it apart and put it back together thing to check everything out.

Wish servos were drop in and didn't have to mod to get correct geometry and fit. no biggie though. Just hope I don't have to cut into my CF frames to get the correct geometry. Looks like it is going to be a pretty tight fit there.

Also, my 2221-6 motor is rubbing the anti-rotation guide. Might have to shave the guide down a micron or two. I'm going with the -8, just doing a test fit with the -6 for now while i wait for the -8 to be delivered.

Overall, seems a very nicely made heli. Today, I'll be searching the threads here to see what everyone else did for the above two issues.

[wbefield]

Finally got to spend some time working on my MT.
Servos are mounted, motor is installed,
Got most of the FBL conversion of the stock head done, still need to work secure my washout base so it doesn't move up or down.
I'm using balls and ball links from my blade 450 on the servo horns.

[Phreak Out]

If you're interested in selling the FB head set, let me know.

[clicky]

Originally Posted by wbefield

Got most of the FBL conversion of the stock head done, still need to work secure my washout base so it doesn't move up or down.

As I said earlier I've seen two options:

1. add extra collar just below washout base. It will push washout base and secure it so it doesn't fall down
2. drill small hole through washout base (and optionally grind a flat spot on main shaft) and tap a screw in (since it is aluminium it is quite easy to do it with the screw itself). That was the reason I used plastic washout base as it is far easier to secure the screw through it and it, anyway, doesn't suffer any strong forces..

3. (I know - I said only two): bend two pins at their ends while washout base is already over them. But... DONT DO IT ON MT HEAD becase those pins are made of such material that would rather snap than bend (unlike TRex heads I followed instruction for - there pins bend easily and secure washout base so easily).
Don't tell us that I didn't warn you!

Also, if you find lower mixing arms too short (they way you cut them), use two plastic ones turned wrong way round (plus thinned ends so they can go through links). Luckily I had plastic head + plastic spares when I was doing it...

[B335]

Better link with pics to highlight what Clicky says.
http://www.raptortechnique.com/mini-titan/index.html

[clicky]

Wow - that's a nice summary how to do MT FBL head of original one!

[wbefield]

Originally Posted by clicky

Also, if you find lower mixing arms too short (they way you cut them), use two plastic ones turned wrong way round (plus thinned ends so they can go through links). Luckily I had plastic head + plastic spares when I was doing it...

Are the lower mixing arms the ones connected to the washout base?

[wbefield]

Also, my motor is rubbing very slightly on the anti-rotation guide. Is it ok to shave it down?

[clicky]

You should be able to fix it by moving swash up or down (using links from servos to swash + links from wash to the head).

I have similar issue if insist on too big collective/cyclics travel. Actually more of the problem was at top most position of swash and full back elevator - where antirotation pin threatened to fall out of antirotation guide.

What collective/cyclics pitch are you using/set it up to?

On my MT with µBeast I have around +/-10-11º on collective and ~8º on cyclics which is more than enough for the way I fly...

[wbefield]

Originally Posted by clicky

You should be able to fix it by moving swash up or down (using links from servos to swash + links from wash to the head).

I have similar issue if insist on too big collective/cyclics travel. Actually more of the problem was at top most position of swash and full back elevator - where antirotation pin threatened to fall out of antirotation guide.

What collective/cyclics pitch are you using/set it up to?

On my MT with µBeast I have around +/-10-11º on collective and ~8º on cyclics which is more than enough for the way I fly...

I had planned on going +/- 12 on collective..6-7 degrees cyclic. Not sure if I'll be able to get that with the converted stock head. Already looks like I am going to have to lower the swash so that it has even travel up and down, but even then still looks like I might bind at full pos/neg pitch with full cyclic. Once I get the washout base locked, I'll hook up my ZYX and see what can get.

Is it normal for 2221-8 motor to rub on the anti rotation guide?

[clicky]

Originally Posted by wbefield

I had planned on going +/- 12 on collective..6-7 degrees cyclic. Not sure if I'll be able to get that with the converted stock head. Already looks like I am going to have to lower the swash so that it has even travel up and down, but even then still looks like I might bind at full pos/neg pitch with full cyclic. Once I get the washout base locked, I'll hook up my ZYX and see what can get.

Is it normal for 2221-8 motor to rub on the anti rotation guide?

Even travel doesn't rely on position of swash.

+/- 12 deg + 6-7 is something you should achieve with no problems.

If swash pin is rubbing motor - move it higher! Lengthen servo to swash links and shorten links in the head.

[wbefield]

It's not rubbing on the pin. its rubbing on the plastic guide that the pin goes in.

[B335]

That's not normal. I have about 4-5mm clearance between the 2221-8 and the anti rotation bracket.

Of course that's determined by what pinion you're using. (I use a 13T). Use something like a 12T and the motor's going to move nearer the ARB. Still shouldn't be enough to make contact.

[wbefield]

It is possible that I have the 10T on there as the motor in the pic is actually a 2221-6. When I get home I'll put the -8 with a 12t pinion on there and see if there is more clearance.

[wbefield]

Originally Posted by B335

That's not normal. I have about 4-5mm clearance between the 2221-8 and the anti rotation bracket.

Of course that's determined by what pinion you're using. (I use a 13T). Use something like a 12T and the motor's going to move nearer the ARB. Still shouldn't be enough to make contact.

My 12T came in today.. Put it on the 2221-8 and now I have about 2mm of clearance.
I've got the stuff to lock my washout base. Hopefully I can get to that this weekend.

[wbefield]

Ordered the Flybarless kit today.

[Punkin71]

Originally Posted by wbefield

Ordered the Flybarless kit today.

You will like it! I flew 4 packs today with this head and it is a big improvement over the stock flybar head converted to fbl.