I read that rolls and flips were slow but...

[rctazz]

...Holy mackerel, I could have gone for coffee. I flew the 700E with the Microbeast for the first time today. Without changing anything from stock settings, the heli flew great and the annoying tail wag was gone. When I went to flip it it was painfully slow. I changed to Extreme mode and it was still very slow.

Can anyone please tell me how to speed the roll and flip rate up. The 3G system wasn't perfect in the tail category but the Heli flipped with amazing speed. I have all of the default dial settings.

Thanks in advance.
Jim

[hamstar78]

set to tx mode and adjust the rates in your tx, theres a good tuning guide in the sticky section

[DannyvG]

did you set your cyclic limit to the maximum possible? So 12~14degrees IIRC.
If you would put it in TX mode and you dont notice any faster flip/roll rates when increasing endpoints then your cyclic limit is probably the limiting factor. Or your headspeed or just the setup.

[nwmtech]

TX mode. 110 atv's on elev/ail.

Setting up max cyclic limit properly is important too.

[rctazz]

Thanks for the replies. I checked the max throw of the elevator and aileron. They were at 8 degrees. During the initial max cyclic step, I eliminated all servo noise essentially and only got a red light (obviously not enough cyclic). So I went through the setup process again, went just a tiny bit farther and got a blue light. I checked Aileron and elevator pitch after setup and they were about 11.5 degrees. That is with +/- 13 degrees of collective. I won't have a chance to try it until Tuesday I do have a servo buzz at one extreme at full negative and one extreme at full positive but I must have had it with the 3G as well and just not noticed it because I had +/-13 pitch with 12 Aileron/Elevator.

I have Outrage BL9180 cyclic servos and the Align ball links actually touch the servo at extreme swash movement. Not the Carbon rod or end cap but the servo horn itself. I am using the Align metal servo wheels with the ball mounted on the inside. I tried mounting the balls on the outside but the end cap of the carbon rod contacts the servo wheel in that configuration. I also tried mounting the servos with and without spacers. If I could find a servo wheel that had a longer standoff from the servo, I would be golden. The stock Outrage wheel is actually worse.

If anyone knows a fix for the servo ball contacting the servo or how to successfully mount the servo rod on the outside of the wheel, please let me know.

Thanks again.

[Helico-pteron]

I'm confused about your comment the servo ball. I have mine maxed out on the limits and the link does not touch the servo.

With the 700, you should be far into the blue light before any interaction.

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by Helico-pteron

I'm confused about your comment the servo ball. I have mine maxed out on the limits and the link does not touch the servo.

With the 700, you should be far into the blue light before any interaction.

What servos do you have? I have Outrage BL9180 servos. The case design is slightly different than the DS610 servos. In other words, with the servo wheel installed on the 9180, the distance between the servo case and wheel is smaller than on the DS610

[Helico-pteron]

Originally Posted by rctazz

What servos do you have? I have Outrage BL9180 servos. The case design is slightly different than the DS610 servos. In other words, with the servo wheel installed on the 9180, the distance between the servo case and wheel is smaller than on the DS610

I understand now, not much you can do about that I guess.

[emberjelly]

\oops

[JohnThompson]

Try putting longer balls on the swash or using the outer holes on the bell crank to change the amount of servo travel required to move the blade grips. You should try some combinations of these two things to get rid of the servo binding. Keep in mind, it is very important that you still get 6 degrees on step J.

[rctazz]

Just to close the loop on this post.

First, thank you for all of the responses. Turns out, The servo wheels did not sit far enough away from my Outrage BL9180 Cyclic servos, so...the push-pull rods would bind against the case of the servo (as stated above). I found two fixes:

1. I put spacers (Trex450 sport feathering shaft spacers) inside the splined portion of the servo wheel which moved the servo wheel out about 1mm. This provided all the clearance I needed. Currently using this method.

2. The second thing I found that worked was Dubro Super strength long servo arms (Futaba Splined). Each pack comes with 2 double sided arms. The arms have longer standoffs than the Align or QuickUK servo wheels. After drilling holes for the proper distance and cutting off the excess, they work well too.



I can now get 14 degrees of collective with over 13 degrees of cyclic and no binding.

[michael503]

Originally Posted by rctazz

1. I put spacers (Trex450 sport feathering shaft spacers) inside the splined portion of the servo wheel which moved the servo wheel out about 1mm. This provided all the clearance I needed. Currently using this method.

Am I reading this right that you chose less spline contact between the servo wheel and the servo output shaft to correct this issue?

I don't wish to appear to be an alarmist, but don't you think that's unsafe?
Please tell me you are using metal servo wheels.

[rctazz]

Originally Posted by michael503

Am I reading this right that you chose less spline contact between the servo wheel and the servo output shaft to correct this issue? Yes

I don't wish to appear to be an alarmist, A little bit
but don't you think that's unsafe? Not at all
Please tell me you are using metal servo wheels. And Yes

It is spaced out 1 mm with about 4 mm of spline still in contact. Not going anywhere. I did tons of Tic Tocs on Sunday with no sign of issue on the servo wheels. I would be more concerned about the tiny piece of plastic on the top of the ball link being the weak link.