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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 07-13-2012, 02:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default For everyone with gear mesh issues I may have a solution- VIDEO

I like working on the gear mesh issue with the heli torn down (motor off) to just the right half of the frame and boom with tail case and gears on. This way you can easily check gear mesh bearing issues etc. I noticed with the main gear off the gear mesh was nice and smooth not issue. When I snugged up the main gear on the bottom it created mesh issues. It is ever so slightly pulling the A gear down with the main gear seated on the bottom bearing. So this is what I came up with. A few flights and no real wear or dust. Very smooth.
Sorry crappy camera. Good enough to get the idea.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CJERk447LM[/ame]

EDIT: Update
Beaver Rat found a shim from a 450 kit that he used to shim the top collar. He is reporting good results with this. Just be careful not to use too thick of a shim. I noticed while working on mine if the bottom collar was too tight it caused binding and would not spin freely. This will cause drag and reduce flight time. It could also lead to a hotter motor and be hard on the batteries.
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Last edited by Lompma; 07-16-2012 at 12:26 PM..
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Tell the truth! You're Christian Slater aren't you? lol
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My voice sounds like him?
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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My voice sounds like him?
To me it did, ''An interview with a vampire'' was on in the background just the other night and your voice immediately reminded me of him.lol
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So Mr. Slater, I mean Lompma, good video.
Do you mean that the top stop collar is not quite seated (tightly) on top of the frame, allowing for very slight movement of the 'A' gear downward? Will definitely look into this, and keep in mind when removing / installing the main gear. Thx.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So Mr. Slater, I mean Lompma, good video.
Do you mean that the top stop collar is not quite seated (tightly) on top of the frame, allowing for very slight movement of the 'A' gear downward? Will definitely look into this, and keep in mind when removing / installing the main gear. Thx.
I think the collar on top is seated fine. I think the plastic frame might be flexing. The bearings my move ever so slightly. So maybe the bearings and the frame combined is enough to allow the shaft to move ever so slightly, causing a gear mesh problem. I think the bottom collar might prevent the shaft from moving at all. I think this method keeps the A gear in one place and does not allow it to move at all regardless of the pressure from the main gear.
I had to readjust and sand down the bottom collar through trial and error to get it so it would not bind up the bearings and run smooth.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A tube between the bottom bearing and the A gear would probably do the same as an extra collar, without having to drill another hole in the main shaft.

This is assuming you could find a tube that fit over the main shaft just right.
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just got done with my 8th flight. No gear dust and flying better than it ever has. It seems to have a tab more power also. To grind a gear down to nothing requires friction and that friction is robbing the power train of energy. I had 2 bad gears prior to this. I was also thinking that you dont need a collar you could also flip a bad used gear upside down and accomplish the same thing.
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Old 07-13-2012, 05:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lompma View Post
Just got done with my 8th flight. No gear dust and flying better than it ever has. It seems to have a tab more power also. To grind a gear down to nothing requires friction and that friction is robbing the power train of energy. I had 2 bad gears prior to this. I was also thinking that you dont need a collar you could also flip a bad used gear upside down and accomplish the same thing.
I like the sounds of this.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What about placing a shim above the top bearing block in between the bearing and collar? I noticed that doing this lifts up the "A" gear just a wee bit and removes slop from between the "A" gear and top collar.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Tail seems to have less wag also. A mesh problem could cause tail wag. The tail is not where I would like it but it is def better than before. I think we are making progress on the tail issues also. Really need a MH upgrade pitch slider, I read they are working on it as we speak.
If you are frustrated and at your wits end like I was over the gear mesh issue, just take the time and do it right. This is not the easiest mod to do. I think you will be pleasantly surprised like I was.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaver Rat View Post
What about placing a shim above the top bearing block in between the bearing and collar? I noticed that doing this lifts up the "A" gear just a wee bit and removes slop from between the "A" gear and top collar.
That might work, but I think what is going on here might be a slight flexing of the frame. A shim will not stop that, but a collar on the bottom keeps the frame "square" and does not allow it to flex or move.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:12 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lompma View Post
That might work, but I think what is going on here might be a slight flexing of the frame. A shim will not stop that, but a collar on the bottom keeps the frame "square" and does not allow it to flex or move.
I will just have to try both and compare as soon as my tail shaft arrives...
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Keep in mind that the tolerances seem to be varying greatly from heli to heli. Hence some people having no issues, to some issues and some cant even fly it. That is why I did not post any specs.
I know HH says to push boom in all the way but I got way to much binding. I pulled my out about 2mm and it is much better. I think the B gear was designed to float a little on the shaft. I tried to loctiite it and that was a disaster.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Wouldn't it be simplier to just put a BL motor and ESC controled by a gyro on the tail?


Sorry ,the devil made me say that.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lompma View Post
I like working on the gear mesh issue with the heli torn down (motor off) to just the right half of the frame and boom with tail case and gears on. This way you can easily check gear mesh bearing issues etc. I noticed with the main gear off the gear mesh was nice and smooth not issue. When I snugged up the main gear on the bottom it created mesh issues. It is ever so slightly pulling the A gear down with the main gear seated on the bottom bearing. So this is what I came up with. A few flights and no real wear or dust. Very smooth.
Sorry crappy camera. Good enough to get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CJERk447LM
Great find Everybody is finding new ways to make the lil guy work that's what it takes.

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Last edited by tntburnett; 07-13-2012 at 09:26 PM..
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:47 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks TNT. That means alot coming from you. I tried your pushrod guide mod and it improved the tail. I used a Walkera 4G6 guide though. Same size and I just CA'd it. Keep these great mods coming guys. My BL McpX is miles ahead of a stock one due to people on this forum putting their heads together and coming up with solutions to problems.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:15 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Would loosening the main gear, dropping it slightly to get a very slight slopp do the same thing? I bet over-tightening the main gear when installing could be a major issue.
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Old 07-15-2012, 01:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
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People are doing that and reporting that it does work. I just question if relying on one bearing to hold the whole head/blades etc. assembly is the optimal solution.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:46 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lompma View Post
People are doing that and reporting that it does work. I just question if relying on one bearing to hold the whole head/blades etc. assembly is the optimal solution.
Lompma,
I see what you are saying, but it's gonna be real difficult to get true "load sharing" between the upper and lower bearings. It would take a very accurate location of your new collar to acheive it. I don't believe there is a true thrust bearing in the main shaft assembly either, so I think your concern is definitely valid. There are several people using the "just pull it down slightly" approach, so hopefully they will continue to post and we can compare their results to yours over time.
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