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250 Class Electric Helicopters 250 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 06-04-2012, 11:27 PM   #21
Viet-Lama
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Wow, great job on the re build, shes a beauty!
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:51 AM   #22
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Doesnt fly tho. Last weekend I got a few flights in and then on spooling up an A link broke, and nothing good happened from that point on.

I thought I'd fixed it up, but could barely get off the ground as something odd was going on with the flybar. On closer inspection a screw holding in the flybar seesaw has sheared. There's nothing left of the screw on the head block surface to grip or cut a notch in. Only thing I can think of is trying to drill it out. Any suggestions?
Nice build
Not sure which bad screw you are talking about, if you are able to get the the back side of it then if you try to drill it out from the back, sometimes that action unscrews it

looking at your image, I would be careful with the gyro, use some foam and not a tie-wrap, if you are worried about the gyro coming unstuck, then foam and a loose velcro strap is an option
Also make sure that the gyro doesn't touch the tail support rods, I had to space them out on one of my helis
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:43 PM   #23
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Nice build
Not sure which bad screw you are talking about, if you are able to get the the back side of it then if you try to drill it out from the back, sometimes that action unscrews it

looking at your image, I would be careful with the gyro, use some foam and not a tie-wrap, if you are worried about the gyro coming unstuck, then foam and a loose velcro strap is an option
Also make sure that the gyro doesn't touch the tail support rods, I had to space them out on one of my helis
Thanks, I got the screw out. Drilled through it, jammed a small flat head in the hole, then held it over a gas cooker while unscrewing it. The black band on the gyro is just a rubber band holding the tail servo plug.

It's flying now, although my recent Align/Tarot tail upgrade didn't help.

I had a copterx before and when it was new kevlar belts lasted well, but after a year I was lucky to get 50 flights out of a belt. I put some align parts in the tail, but that added a tail vibration. I gave up trying to fix it and bought an HK kit. As with the copterx when new, I get endless flights out of a kevlar belt but I know that wont last so I recently bought the Tarot tail gear drive and installed that together with the align tail. My theory is that it's better to have the same material on both tail pulleys. I tested it for the first time this morning and there's a rough sound and less power. It handles ok and there's no noticeable vibration so I'll fly it and see if the belt just needs to wear in.
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Old 06-05-2012, 07:31 PM   #24
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Metal drive gears is what makes all the difference. With plastic tail gears i was lucky to have a belt last 50 flights.
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:27 PM   #25
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Metal drive gears is what makes all the difference. With plastic tail gears i was lucky to have a belt last 50 flights.
If you've got an align kit aren't your stuck with plastic tail pulleys? I now regret the $40 or so I threw into Align tail parts.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:00 PM   #26
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The only clone I'd suggest is tarot, only one that hasnt come with bent shafts.
Bad luck I'd say. I've never tried the clone feathering shaft, but the main shafts are just soft and that isn't necessarily a bad thing.

At the moment I've got an Align main shaft that's had three hard crashes yet remains dead straight. Unfortunately on two out of three crashes it crushed the main shaft bearings, and they are a pain to replace. Clone shafts just bend at the collar.

The new 250Pro main shaft looks even worse for bearings. Sometimes if I come down hard on the skids the collar will slip pushing the main gear down and absorbing the impact. I imagine the pro shaft would crunch the top bearings.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:39 AM   #27
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I've never used clone bearings so I can't comment. But with my align bearing blocks (plastic ones) I've had some REALLY bad crashes, I'm talking things like inverted into asphalt. I've had to replace half the heli but the main frame and bearings have always stayed intact. I'm using the pro shaft by the way I got fed up with the collar slipping.
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:59 AM   #28
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Metal drive gears is what makes all the difference. With plastic tail gears i was lucky to have a belt last 50 flights.
Is it worth trying the Align belt with plastic gears?
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:20 AM   #29
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I've never used clone bearings so I can't comment. But with my align bearing blocks (plastic ones) I've had some REALLY bad crashes, I'm talking things like inverted into asphalt. I've had to replace half the heli but the main frame and bearings have always stayed intact. I'm using the pro shaft by the way I got fed up with the collar slipping.

yep the 250 can get expensive regardless if it's clone or align.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:44 AM   #30
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If you've got an align kit aren't your stuck with plastic tail pulleys? I now regret the $40 or so I threw into Align tail parts.
Sorry didn't see your other post. Nah Align has released metal tail shafts and pulleys. Not sure how long ago but they come with the pro I'm pretty sure.


Part number is H25079A

and the tail shaft


Part number is H25075. The black looks like plastic but it's actually metal.

Also on the topic of belts. With metal gears I haven't had a problem with align or kevlar belt. The align one stripped some teeth in a crash but I might have had it a bit tight. Both belts work well but I like the kevlar as it doesn't seem to stretch over time. I can set the tension when its brand new and after 5 flights its still the same tightness.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:57 PM   #31
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I manage to get my HK250GT's flying quite well. Must say that mij 250SE flies nicer though. Just have to avoid the HXT servo's, they are not good enough and stuff up controllability. Too coarse and insufficient centering. I have one flybarred one with Turnigy 1800 servo's. It flies fine. Another one is flybarless with Tarot ZYX and Henge 922 digital servos on the swash, works really well too.

Only the tail belt needs replacing, most of the times I upgrade the tail control slider and control arm to align. Also when i crash it I tend to replace the main rotor hub to align. The HK ones tend to be off centre when the main shaft is replaced. Also i put 250SE paddles on the flybar, they are so much nicer.

I found the HK's particularly useful for learning, crashes are really cheap and there is a lot less worry about a 30 dollar bird vs. a 130 dollar bird
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:39 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youturnjason View Post
Metal drive gears is what makes all the difference. With plastic tail gears i was lucky to have a belt last 50 flights.
I use plastic with no problem. Never have an issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fgroen View Post
I manage to get my HK250GT's flying quite well. Must say that mij 250SE flies nicer though. Just have to avoid the HXT servo's, they are not good enough and stuff up controllability. Too coarse and insufficient centering. I have one flybarred one with Turnigy 1800 servo's. It flies fine. Another one is flybarless with Tarot ZYX and Henge 922 digital servos on the swash, works really well too.

Only the tail belt needs replacing, most of the times I upgrade the tail control slider and control arm to align. Also when i crash it I tend to replace the main rotor hub to align. The HK ones tend to be off centre when the main shaft is replaced. Also i put 250SE paddles on the flybar, they are so much nicer.

I found the HK's particularly useful for learning, crashes are really cheap and there is a lot less worry about a 30 dollar bird vs. a 130 dollar bird
Check your boom. I used to have a CopterX boom, the boom has rough edge at the end. It protruding toward the in of the boom.I guess it's rubbing the belt. The stock CopterX belt snapped at maiden. Replace with Align, only last for couples of flights. Now I have an Align boom with kevlar belt. Never have any issue.

Some people have different experience with electronic. I used to use Turnigy 1800. It died several times, then I replace with HXT. Never have any issue.
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