Just ordered a Fury 55 FBL!

[Joe Bailey]

The BLS 451's are fantastic, after the first few flights mine went silent you can barely hear them on the bench I also went with the Gyphon regulator it works fine i get voltage at 6 volts same as any other regulator I've used. My only problem is the size, its a real brick of a regulator but very easy to wire and set up. The way my Flybar 55 flys its almost a crime to put a Vbar in one, but each to his own.

Regards
Joe

[whittb]

Savox makes a new line of high voltage servos that beat the pants off of outrage or KMS servos from a specifications point of view. They are 100 dollars a peace and have considerably more torque and are faster than the others. I think that MKS and outrage are coming out with a new servos line as well, things are not being restocked anymore.

I would get yourself a good set of FBL blades, the #D pro blades are not very good in my opinion, I have tried them, but the FBL blades handle so much better, regardless of what you are doing. form just hovering around to really pushing the limits, you will see a noticeable difference I think.

[Pvtzemerak]

Hey guys!
Thanks for all the responses (even though it seems the miniature aircraft forum isn't too popular, maybe because everyone out there is flying theirs rather than talking aout it online ) As of now, ive gathered lots of information about what equipment to use, and I'll hopefully be making my decision soon. The full size Vbar and Bls 251 is a definate for me, there's no changing that. The cyclic servos, I'll need a bit more time before I bite the bullet. I really don't want to buy cheaper equipment, then in a few months later when I practice 3D, I'll be disappointed. But at the same time, if anything goes wrong and I end up breaking servos or stripping gears, I don't want to burn a hole in my wallet. ( tough decisions). Thanks a bunch guys! I will keep you updated !
--PvT

[Pvtzemerak]

This is going to be awhile before i maiden, but as for now i want to get the airframe completed, just because i needed something to keep myself busy outside of work, school, and friends
The frames are put together! Its a pretty smooth build, and the text and pictures helped me put things together with no problem
Im trying to figure out what greese or lubricant i can find for the main gear, it recomends a lubricant from MA's website, but is there any i can get locally that will do the job ( hardware store, home depot, ect? )
--Brian

[dchekas]

I never lubricated the main gear.... I don't think there is any need. It will get plenty of oil on it from the exhaust.

[MXRACERX43]

The lubricant is for the Oneway not the main gear. I use Tri-flow with excellent results.

A drop or two on your tail rotor and mainshaft after cleaning is good practice also.

Tri-Flow is avaliable at Walmart in the bicycle and sporting godds Dept.
Go for the pen applicator over the areosal spray can.

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by Pvtzemerak

This is going to be awhile before i maiden, but as for now i want to get the airframe completed, just because i needed something to keep myself busy outside of work, school, and friends
The frames are put together! Its a pretty smooth build, and the text and pictures helped me put things together with no problem
Im trying to figure out what greese or lubricant i can find for the main gear, it recomends a lubricant from MA's website, but is there any i can get locally that will do the job ( hardware store, home depot, ect? )
--Brian

There is no need to lubricate the main gear, as Delrin has self lubricating properties. You DO want to make sure that the oneway bearing is lubricated with Tri-Flow oil. Any decent bike shop will have it, as well as most RC hobby shops. We also package it:
http://www.miniatureaircraftusa.com/...mart&Itemid=82

[Pvtzemerak]

Thanks guys,
I have a question about my engine / pipe choice. I'm probably going to go with an O.s .50 hyper, but I'm not sure what muffler to use. I understand the Hatori Bobby watts special is a high class muffler, but is there anything that's cheaper that will work as well? Any suggestions?
--Brian

[fastflyer20]

The 50's were very tolerant of different mufflers. Also consider the CY MP5, Hatori, Align. Keep an eye out for used, with the popularity of the 55's and 56's, there are often good deals on used pipes for 50's.

[MXRACERX43]

Originally Posted by fastflyer20

The 50's were very tolerant of different mufflers. Also consider the CY MP5, Hatori, Align. Keep an eye out for used, with the popularity of the 55's and 56's, there are often good deals on used pipes for 50's.

My feelings exactly.

I used Hatori, CY MP5, Align, and the OE Thunder Tiger pipe that came in the 50 kits with good results. The Hatori does have a small edge in Quality and power but as fastflyer stated the OS 50 is not nearly as picky as the 55/56 engines are about pipes. I found
Align pipes tp be a good price/power compromise. Although early versions had a baffle breakage problem anything still out there should be good .

[Pvtzemerak]

Thanks for all the help guys! Now onto my first build problem
I pretty much have the tail unit done, all except for the tail pitch slider, grips and ect. The problem i have right now is the tail unit will slide up and down the two holes about 8 degrees in each direction. I have the two bolts that pin the boom as tight as possible, and the 0065 screw that tightents the unit to the boom as tight as possible. Any solutions to the problem?
--Brian

[dchekas]

Your tail case is turning on the boom with both of the M3x6 bolts installed and the clamping bolt tightened?

Are you sure the tail case is all the way on, and the two bolts are actually going through the holes in the boom?

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by Pvtzemerak

Thanks for all the help guys! Now onto my first build problem
I pretty much have the tail unit done, all except for the tail pitch slider, grips and ect. The problem i have right now is the tail unit will slide up and down the two holes about 8 degrees in each direction. I have the two bolts that pin the boom as tight as possible, and the 0065 screw that tightents the unit to the boom as tight as possible. Any solutions to the problem?
--Brian

The original manual has the screw that clamps the tail case shown on the wrong size. Download the latest version of the manual from our website here:
http://miniatureaircraftusa.com/manu...y55manual2.pdf

If you still have a problem give us a call (406)245-4883 and we will help get it solved

[Pvtzemerak]

Hey everyone,
Just an update on my build. Due to recent events ( car crash, other unexpected events) I dont have the funds yet to continue the build, but i was looking over the heli and i had a question. How tight do you guys have the belt? mine is as tight as i could get it without ripping the tailboom out, i can push one belt in as hard as i can, and it wont touch the other side of the belt. I also notice that the belt seems alittle too far down on the belt pully. If i push down on it hard enough, im pretty sure it will slip off. Any recomendations for re-alignment?
Im thinking of running a LiFe pack with a switch to save some money.
Also, thanks to Mom and Dad, i got a Dx8 for christmas
Cant wait to get this thing flying

[kcordell]

tight as you can get it.

[Rob43]

Just a suggestion on fuel...I've attended the Toledo Weak Signals Show each year to buy Wildcat Curtis Youngblood Heli 30% Nitro. It's show priced at $19/gal as a show special. At least it was the last two years. You can save a bunch of dough on some really good fuel that way. Going to the show is a good time bonus. Although it is mostly airplane oriented, there are many useful items on site, such as tools, batteries (for example, if you chose to go with LiFe battery instead of a LiPo and regualtor (this was what I flew on my Fury 55), Radical RC is there selling packs made to order. You can email them, and have them make up a pack with the desired connectors and capacity for pickup at the show. I found the Hyperion 3800 mah LiFe pack balanced my model well when the tank was 1/2 full.

I also ran the Switchglow. Loved it for sure. Excellent little gem. Took some programming to fire it when desired, but you can find the instructional on this if you choose to run it in the Helifreak Tech Room.

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by Rob43

Just a suggestion on fuel...I've attended the Toledo Weak Signals Show each year to buy Wildcat Curtis Youngblood Heli 30% Nitro. It's show priced at $19/gal as a show special. At least it was the last two years. You can save a bunch of dough on some really good fuel that way. Going to the show is a good time bonus. Although it is mostly airplane oriented, there are many useful items on site, such as tools, batteries (for example, if you chose to go with LiFe battery instead of a LiPo and regualtor (this was what I flew on my Fury 55), Radical RC is there selling packs made to order. You can email them, and have them make up a pack with the desired connectors and capacity for pickup at the show. I found the Hyperion 3800 mah LiFe pack balanced my model well when the tank was 1/2 full.

I also ran the Switchglow. Loved it for sure. Excellent little gem. Took some programming to fire it when desired, but you can find the instructional on this if you choose to run it in the Helifreak Tech Room.

Thanks so much!
I actually planned to go to the show to meet up with a few of my friends who are competing, thanks for letting me know though, i wouldnt of thought to bring money for the heli.
Anyway, As i was looking over the airframe today, i looked at the main shaft / maingear on the heli. I fixed the belt problem ( i tightened it as much as possible ) and i was wondering how to tell if there is any binding in the main shaft assembly.
For example, when i spin the main shaft with my fingers, it takes a little bit of force, but it doesnt keep on spinning when i let go of the shaft, it just stops. I have no verticle play in the shaft whatsoever, but if i spin the shaft with my fingers, should it keep spinning freely? I dont know if im explaining this correctly, because again, this is my first heli build. Any ideas if i set it up correctly?
--Brian

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by Pvtzemerak

Thanks so much!
I actually planned to go to the show to meet up with a few of my friends who are competing, thanks for letting me know though, i wouldnt of thought to bring money for the heli.
Anyway, As i was looking over the airframe today, i looked at the main shaft / maingear on the heli. I fixed the belt problem ( i tightened it as much as possible ) and i was wondering how to tell if there is any binding in the main shaft assembly.
For example, when i spin the main shaft with my fingers, it takes a little bit of force, but it doesnt keep on spinning when i let go of the shaft, it just stops. I have no verticle play in the shaft whatsoever, but if i spin the shaft with my fingers, should it keep spinning freely? I dont know if im explaining this correctly, because again, this is my first heli build. Any ideas if i set it up correctly?
--Brian

Without seeing it in person it's a little hard to say, but there likely isn't enough inertia in the main shaft/gear assembly to keep it spinning. Just make sure you have only a 1/4 twist in the belt going down the boom. I have seen people with it twisted 3/4 and the belt rubs and really increases drag and wears out the best extremely fast.

[Pvtzemerak]

Originally Posted by Brian James

Without seeing it in person it's a little hard to say, but there likely isn't enough inertia in the main shaft/gear assembly to keep it spinning. Just make sure you have only a 1/4 twist in the belt going down the boom. I have seen people with it twisted 3/4 and the belt rubs and really increases drag and wears out the best extremely fast.

Thanks!
Im considering taking it apart and rebuilding the entire gear assembly. It was honestly a question about all heli's. Without the engine installed, if i spin the main gear / spindle with my hand, is it supposed to keep spinning freely? Or just come to a stop.
--Brian

[Pvtzemerak]

Happy Easter everyone!
The fury is still sitting down in the basement, i am going to be installing the engine within the next week or so, that will probably be an easy task, i havnt had alot of trouble with this kit so far ( Miniature aircraft = THE BOMB! ). Everyone here has been a great help, including Brian who has been answering questions alot of my questions through Facebook, making my first heli build increadibly enjoyable.
My next question is about Cyclic and tail servo voltages. I am 99% sure that i will run Outrage BL 9180's on Cyclic. And an Outrage BL 9188 on the tail. Money isnt really a problem for me anymore, seeing as im getting more hours at my part time job, without sacrificing grades in school. Seeing that these servos are HV, i want to be able to make things alot simpler and run unregulated 2s 2100mah reciever pack all around.Is the Mikado Vbar able to handle an unregulated 2s lipo battery? If so, the only thing that i have to find is a control horn ( Futaba or Align splined ) with the correct length to use with the BL 9180's. Any suggestions on the control horn guys?
Oh, and one last question. Im trying to find the old Spektrum Backplate Sensor to use with the Vbar govener. I cant find it anywhere online, the only one i can find is the newer one to be used with telemetry, but it doesnt have the right connector to plug into the Vbar.

p.s : attached is a wolf spider i found in the engine bags awhile ago, not sure how it got in there
--Brian
-PvT