Your Input on Head Dampers: MSH Red, Lynx Ultra, Lynx Ultra V2?

[isogloss3d]

Hi guys, I'm looking to replace my head dampers for the first time and I'm curious about your experience and recommendations.

I fly mostly moderate 3D at 2600 rpm and the stock dampers now have 100+ flights on them. I'm looking for a little more of a crisp feel without issues at lower head speeds.

Thanks in advance.

[DoubleCH]

MSH red hard 3D dampers all the way. Lynx wear out quick. Too little and too soft rubber O-rings to absorb shock. Red rubber dampers are hard and it's all rubber so lots of rubber to absorb shock without much movement and prevent wear. Super stiff no slop and even 3D'ing at my usual 2250rpm HS there's no more head wobble the worn-out Lynx would give.

[01ws666]

+1 for me on going with the msh red dampners.
I just had my head apart last week for routine bearing mantanence and I had planned on having to swap out my dampners since they've been on there for about 350 packs worth of abuse.
But those msh reds were soo tight that I couldn't even get the feathering shaft out! And I did grease it going in.
There's literally zero slop, I'm running stretch 470mm rjx's blades @ 2500 rpms.

[isogloss3d]

Awesome guys, I appreciate the input and will try the red dampers.

[kingmeow]

Originally Posted by 01ws666

But those msh reds were soo tight that I couldn't even get the feathering shaft out! And I did grease it going in.

Wait! Are you suppose to grease/lube FS in general or only when using the red dampeners?

[isogloss3d]

Originally Posted by kingmeow

Wait! Are you suppose to grease/lube FS in general or only when using the red dampeners?

The majority of people I know lube their head dampers/FS, regardless of the type of dampers being used. Most kits instruct you to do so as well in their assembly instructions.

[kingmeow]

Interesting. Not doubting you but I do not see that in the Carbon manual (p. 18). I've assembled other helis but don't remember lubing the FS before insertion.

[isogloss3d]

Good catch there King. FWIW I also noticed there is no mention in the manual to lube the thrust bearings either Perhaps these things are assumed?

[kingmeow]

Originally Posted by isogloss3d

Good catch there King. FWIW I also noticed there is no mention in the manual to lube the thrust bearings either Perhaps these things are assumed?

I'm just an anal engineer so I follow what the instruction said. But, having said that, I'm always open to new learning and understanding!

[isogloss3d]

I finally upgraded to the MSH 3D Red dampers and I'm getting a terrible tail bob which does diminish some at higher head speeds but it's still there.

I never had any problems with the standard dampers but everyone recommended the red and mentioned they still work at lower head speeds.

Running basic stock (non-stretch setup) 15T pinion, Scorp 880kv motor and MSH Brain.

Is there a place in the Brain/Ikon advanced menu where I can try to tune this out and if so where?

[DoubleCH]

Tighter head dampers mean lower tolerance in rotor imbalance and off-tracking.

[isogloss3d]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

Tighter head dampers mean lower tolerance in rotor imbalance and off-tracking.

Thanks DoubleCH.

Running Rail 426 mains. Tracking is great. Balance is as good as I can get it in regards to span-wise CG and see-saw balancing.

I went back to standard dampers for now but I'll try to balance the blades again.

[HAV]

Been using the MSH red dampers, well greased, with Halo 450s. I like 1500-1800 headspeeds. No issues at all with SK540.

[isogloss3d]

Originally Posted by HAV

Been using the MSH red dampers, well greased, with Halo 450s. I like 1500-1800 headspeeds. No issues at all with SK540.

Thanks for your input. This is why my experience was frustrating, I must be doing something wrong. I run 2600/2700/2800 rpm and I was getting the nodding/bobbing even a little at 2800 rpm with the MSH red dampers.

The model had about 400 flights on it so when replacing the dampers I also replaced all the grip bearings. I switched back to the used standard dampers yesterday to make sure my issue wasn't caused by other changes and the nodding went away.

I'll have to keep playing with it even though I don't want to.

[HAV]

Issues like that will drive one crazy.... Even though its a PIA, I always go back to basics. Check thrust bearings for correct orientation, dampers placed correct side in in the headblock, radial bearings fully seated, spacer orientation correct, etc... How tight do you run your blades? Hope you get it sorted quickly.. hav

[isogloss3d]

Originally Posted by HAV

Issues like that will drive one crazy.... Even though its a PIA, I always go back to basics. Check thrust bearings for correct orientation, dampers placed correct side in in the headblock, radial bearings fully seated, spacer orientation correct, etc... How tight do you run your blades? Hope you get it sorted quickly.. hav

Well I pulled apart the head again and checked everything. Bearings and spacers correct, FS rolls true on glass. Grips are smooth under load with no slop. It's hard to tell a difference in damper orientation, they look symetrical. Any tips?

I don't do blade stops or a ton of autos so I run blades a little on the loose side.

[HAV]

Originally Posted by isogloss3d

It's hard to tell a difference in damper orientation, they look symetrical. Any tips?

.

Hmmm...It's been a while since I replaced my red dampers, but I remember a distinct step down on one side. Just checked the manual and it shows it as well. Don't really know how much difference this would make, but I don't recall a completely symmetrical red damper for the Protos. Maybe MSH redesigned them symmetrical? Like you I tend to run my blades a bit on the loose side. They wont fold with a light vertical shake, but will with a moderate shake. Too tight and I would induce a vibration at low headspeeds. Maybe someone will chime in on the stepped dampers. HAV

[isogloss3d]

I looked at the dampers again and there's a very small step down protruding out on one side and an equally sized step down protruding in on the opposite side.

I inserted the dampers with the small outward protrusion facing out toward the blade grip.

I zoomed in on the PDF manual and this appears to be correct.

Here's a photo of the red dampers.
http://www.msh-direct.com/products/h...-msh51163.html

I'll simply stick with the standard dampers for now, no big deal.

[babyuh1]

Did you ever get this figured out? I'm thinking of changing to the red dampers.

[Rob43]

Originally Posted by isogloss3d

Good catch there King. FWIW I also noticed there is no mention in the manual to lube the thrust bearings either Perhaps these things are assumed?

I am an MSH newcomer. New Protos. I've built a lot of models, and saw what I'd call "gaps" in the "manual". It's really a collection of 3D renderings with some hint text added. Very good for assembly, but no real instructions. Nothing about setup, etc. I applied what I've learned on other models and had no issues. But things like this seem to be missing in many instruction sets. I use a product called Dow Corning Molykote 33 Light. It's superior to anything I've ever used for damper/FS lubrication. I have a friend at Molykote who recommended it after I provided all the particulars for the application, after suffering wobbles using Triflow grease.

LINK